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Make a cheap router table that is easily stored.

Step 1: Surface

Use MDF and chalk board for the surface.

Step 2: Base Plate

Purchase or make a router base plate. Place it on the work surface and screw wood around its perimeter. Rout out the inside of the wood perimeter.

Step 3: Fence

Cut MDF and chalk board for the fence. Build a supporting structure so that it slides over the work surface.

Step 4: Hole

Cut a clearance hole into the fence.

Step 5: Vacuum

Drill the fence to accommodate a vacuum. Build a wood holder that the vacuum can snap into.

Step 6: Glue Fence

Cut the chalk board material and glue it to the fence face.

Step 7: Support

Build a support structure under the MDF with 2x3s. This will also help keep the surface flat with time.

Step 8: Plate Support

Cut and fasten base plate supports into the hole in the working surface. Add adjustment screws to fine tune the hight of the plate. You could also skip this step and only rout out the edge of the base plate hole to partial depth. I felt better with hard wood over MDF holding the fine tune screws.

Step 9: Level Surface

Test the base plate and adjust the screws for a perfectly flush surface.

Step 10: Glue Surface

Glue the chalk board material to the working surface.

Step 11: Fence Tracks

Rout tracks into the fence base.

Step 12: Hardware

Drill holes into the works surface to accommodate hardware. Run bolts up through the holes and into the fence tracks. Tighten with wingnuts.

Step 13: Drill Base Plate

Center the router base plate over the table base plate and mark holes for the attachment screws. Drill and countersink the holes. Attach the router plunger.

Step 14: Switch

Add an on off switch to the underside of the table.

Step 15: Complete

Clamp or bolt the table to a working surface. The router table also fits over a portable work bench.

<p>Where do you find the on-off switch like the one showed?</p>
Home Depot in the electrical section.
<p>Thank you, Ill check them out soon.</p>
<p>I built one myself .. couple of points may be of interest for those contemplating such a build.</p><p>I used 1&quot; thick MDF, laminated it first (see pic) and then routed in a rebate to take the excellent TREND router base (easy to source in Europe). pic shows first cut the rebate was 2nd cut with bearing guided router.</p><p>I also edged table with hardwood .. as MDF will tend to damage on corners - for same reason rounded edges on the fence.</p><p>I fitted 2 front to back L shaped bars on the underside which stands the table up by about 4&quot; .. and these bars exactly fit my B&amp;D Workmate ..... so that is what I use as a stand and also as my storage place.</p><p>Also built a small box for the vacuum point .. with a perspex lid .... so you can see extract taking place and thus knowing if clogged. Pic attched (before I added the rear to the box)</p>
<p>BTW - the reason for the slots in the fence front are because I put on working 'faces' that I can replace easily when used/damaged - also allows sliding faces - required with some routing tasks.</p>
<p>I love when people make something as useful, well thought out and practical. We don't use our router tables everyday but when we need them there is nothing worse than having to <a>jerry rig</a> something in a hurry. Out of curiosity, how do you store it? cheers.</p>
I hear you on last minute jimmy rigged router jigs. I just store it vertical in a corner on the side of a table.
<p>Well done!<br><br>I made one very similar to this a few years ago :)<br><br>https://www.instructables.com/id/Work-Bench-Router-Table/</p>
great posting friend! added to favs, where did you find those switches used with the router/extension cord?
Home depot electrical Isle for a few dollars.

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