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If you have razor sharp edges I agree you would want some sort of protection or at least to position the rack away from tools you might reach for. The pictures of my rack might make them look like you could graze the chisels while reaching for another tool, but it is actually 8ft off the ground. I haven't put a good edge on them yet either, just wanted a place to store them until I do. At that time I'll probably re-position it in a more guarded place.
That's a good question. I suppose I could affix a few slots to the side with maybe an alternate color of wood to make it look intentional, but I honestly don't plan on buying any new knives. I probably have too many as it is and they should all last into the next century if properly maintained.
Purple heart, Maple and a few unknowns. I snagged a cutter off a broken dispenser. You could maybe use a section of old hacksaw blade or maybe a razor of some kind.
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I think using braced pegboard or even double layer pegboard would work just fine. I had a new hand drill at the time and guess I got a bit carried away. :) I also like the idea of an angled bottom.
Thanks for the semantic input. I am new to mallets and chisels and I try to use the most precise terminology possible in my instructables, but I wasn't aware of the wheelwrights mallet. After a little research I agree a mallet with a slanted face is or was more accurately described that way. I thought about changing the name of the instructable, but it seems at the current time carpenters mallet is interchangeable with a number of wooden mallet styles.
I didn't use a single block of wood because I didn't have anything in the shop of that thickness. I do most of my projects with wood I already have or acquire for free. I saw that the typical method of making a mallet is in the manner you described with chiseled mortise, but my open minded, creative and slightly contrarian attitude pushed me to a different approach. My method seems to have worked very well and probably holds some advantages to novice woodworkers over the more mainstream method. I do concede that the way I cut the handle isn't the safest, but I didn't feel unsafe doing it. A tapering jig of some sort would be the best bet if your concern is reducing risk to its lowest possible denominator.
Looks good. Thanks for sharing.
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Our dog is a rescue too. I had no idea what it was until a few months ago when a passerby called it an Australian Terrier. Seems to be my best guess.
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That is going to depend on the dimensions, construction accuracy and force applied. In step 16 I instruct to fasten the shelf to the wall for safe measure. If I had a kid in the house I would fasten it to the wall to the point it could be climbed on.
I've read a little about it, but I haven't tried it. I didn't care to deal with, the toxicity and disposal issues you mentioned.
Thanks, for all the comments. I went with 4.7µF. Just wanted to be sure I made the right choice.
Great point. I used steel, but forgot to add that to the description. Just updated the instructable. Thanks.
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Haven't looked into making the motor variable speed, but it sounds like a fun project. Thanks for the suggestion.
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This instructable gives you the freedom to make a bench to whatever size is most ergonomically efficient to you. You can also use whatever tools you have on hand. If you want to cut your 2x4s with a steak knife, go ahead, but I'm sure you can think of more efficient methods. If you are having trouble with terminology, here or anywhere else on the web, I suggest using the following: www.google.com
3' high with tops at just about 2'x8'
Thanks for the tip.
Price was the main motivation for using OSB for the lower shelf.
I added a list.
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I picked up a Harbor Freight 3hp dust collector for this reason. I plan to do some modifications to it, but for now the dust collector and box fan in the window really help keep the dust at a minimum.
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Search 'Cabinet Maker's Vise' on Amazon.
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The plate allows the bottom of the spindle sander to be recessed so that the full edge of the work piece meets the sanding surface.
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