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This costume took me over 300 hours and about $350 to create. I have added tips to make it cheaper below. Below is a complete list of the materials I personally used, including cost, quantities, and locations you can purchase the items. Prices are in Canadian dollars.

Materials - Quantity - Seller - Cost - Additional Notes

BASE MATERIALS:

  • Craft foam - 4 rolls - Michael's - $9.99/roll
  • Plaster casting - 1 roll - Michael's - $16.99
  • Plaster - 1 box - Michael's - $11.99
  • Black felt – 1 large sheet (sold folded in a pack) – Michael’s - $6.99

FABRICS:

  • Green fabric with metallic sheen - 1m - Fabricland - $6
  • Black stretch pleather - 1.5m - Fabricland - $22/m (was 50% off)
  • Red stretch pleather - 1m - Fabricland - $22/m (was 50% off)
  • Gold stretch pleather - 1.5m - Fabricland - $22/m (was 50% off)
  • Copper stretch fabric - 2m - Fabricland - $28/m (was 70% off)
  • Silver fabric with metallic sheen - .3m - Fabricland - $2
  • A black stretchy fabric of your choice for the bodysuit (I had some on hand from a previous project).

*Note: Fabrics should be stretchy. If they are not stretchy, they will not form over the shapes properly. You can use non-stretch fabric for the cannon (and silver parts), but be sure to curve your foam with the fabric before cutting it or it will end up too short and won't allow the foam to bend.

LIGHTING:

  • String of battery-powered LEDs – 18/strand, 4 strands – Target - $6.99/strand

*Note: buy 5 strands if you want them in your cannon

  • LED camping lantern – 1 – Walmart – $22.57
  • Stained glass window paint (green) – 1 – Michael’s - $4.97
  • Small LEDs – 2 – Dollarama - $2/ea

MISC.:

  • Green translucent file tabs – 5-6 sheets – Walmart/Dollarama - $1-3/ea/pack
  • Yellow and orange translucent file tabs – 1 sheet each colour – Dollarama - $1
  • Thread (black and red) – I already had this on hand
  • Leggings – 1 pair, tough, with a slight stretch (not too much give) – Suzy Shier - $33
  • Velcro – about 3m or more – Dollarama - $1/pack
  • Cotton Quilt Batting – 1 bag – Walmart – $6.99
  • AA batteries – 16 or more – Target - $24 (large pack purchased)
  • Balloons – 1 pack – Walmart - $2.28
  • Pair of old shoes with a black sole (or can be painted black)
  • Snaps - 4 pairs+ (I had these on hand)

BUILDING MATERIALS:

  • Goop-brand glue – 4-5 bottles – Walmart/Home Depot - $9.93
  • Packing tape – 1 roll – Home Depot/Dollarama/anywhere - $2.28
  • Plastic wrap – 1 roll – Dollarama/Walmart/anywhere - $1.75
  • Double-sided carpet tape – 4-5 rolls – Home Depot - $5.25/ea
  • Masking tape – 1-2 rolls – Home Depot/anywhere - $2.75
  • Glue gun and glue (already had on hand)

Tips to save money:

  • Use Michael's 40% off coupons (available in their monthly flyer and online)
  • Shop around, including mechanic and home hardware shops for deals (craft stores tend to overprice)
  • Ask other cosplayers (Facebook groups are good) for good locations to purchase items

Tips to spend more money to make a higher-quality product:

Use worbla and paint it to make a longer-lasting costume

Tools Needed:

  • Scissors
  • Sandpaper
  • Sewing
  • Machine
  • Pen
  • Black sharpie

Step 1: Step 1: Corset

  1. Use the plastic wrap to make a cast of your body from the bottom of your breast to the bottom of your groin (for lack of better vocabulary). Cover all of the areas that the corset and "golden diaper" will need a pattern from. Make sure the wrap is firm on your body - not suffocating you, but also not too loose.
  2. Using cellophane tape, cover all of the plastic wrap with 1-2 layers of tape.
  3. Carefully cut the cast from your body up the side and tape the cast back together.
  4. Using a Samus image, trace out the pieces you will need. Every Samus picture seems to vary somehow, so make the pieces from your favorite one or a mix of them, as I did. Make it symmetrical. Use measuring tape and folded pieces of paper to help you make perfect shapes.
  5. Cut out the 5 main pieces from the cast - the vertical front piece, side sections, back, and "diaper." Leave the small pieces intact.
  6. The side pieces will need to be cut to create a flat shape from a bent one. You will be creating "darts" so that your flat shape will then again form into a curved one. I recommend cutting from the center of the cast and making vertical darts, stopping before you cut clear through your piece (at least leaving an inch at the top and bottom). This process will depend on your personal shape. I made two darts on mine, each one 1/3 away from each edge. You want your piece to lay flat. If you mess up, simply re-tape the cast and try again, or use the other piece since you'll be doubling the side pieces anyway (you only need one to make the pattern).
  7. You will need two base pieces for your corset - one for the base, and one to cut the pieces out of. The base should be cut slightly narrower on the top and bottom than the top piece to make sure the foam doesn't show through. The top part pieces can be cut slightly wider on the sides by 1-2mm each as when the pattern is laid on top and curved, it will become smaller (think of the outer edge of a race track). Very small adjustments are fine. Going too big means the corset will be too loose.
  8. After cutting out the pieces, you will need to glue the base pieces back together, creating one corset base. Use masking tape to bring the edges together. Using a piece of cardboard (I cut out pieces of the box the glue came in) or a craft stick, spread Goop glue over the seams. I used two thin coats. After it is dry (leave for about an hour), take off the tape and glue the other side to make it really secure. This piece will go on very tight, so it has to be strong. If you wish to test the size of the corset before gluing it, tape it together and check.
  9. Tape and glue the side pieces where the darts are for the overlaying piece. Remember to glue one the opposite way as the other so that it curves in the right direction.
  10. Cut out the individual pieces from your cast and trace them onto your foam. This is a good time to clean up your edges and make sure they're precise.
  11. Number your pieces on both sides. This helps so that you know where they go when the piece is finished.
  12. Cut strips of the double-sided tape and place a few on the front. If your tape shows through the fabric, either place it so that it is hidden or cover the entire front in tape.
  13. On the back side of the pieces, surround the outer edge in tape. 0.5-1cm strips of tape work fine.
  14. Undo the tape on the front side of the pieces and lay on the wrong side of your gold fabric, leaving about 1.5cm of an edge around them.
  15. Cut out your pieces.
  16. The corners of the pieces will need to be cut off, leaving a flat edge on each corner. This way, when you fold over the fabric, the edges meet instead of bunching up. Add slits to any edge that is concave, and cut v-shapes into any curve that is convex. I usually make these about 1 inch apart, depending on how deep the curve is. You don't want too much bunching of fabric or the fabric to be too tight when you fold it over.
  17. Undo the back side of the tape and tape back all of the edges.
  18. Sort out your finished pieces so you know where they go on your corset.
  19. To make gluing the pieces down easier, I did it in sections. first, I did the front pieces. I used double-sided tape to tape the pieces together at the back first here and there, so I had one big front piece. Next, I removed the back of that tape and applied glue to the blank corset. You will have to move quickly with Goop glue, so you can glue gradually. Use masking tape to tape down the edges as you glue. Note that the glue might make your fabric release from the tape as wet tape doesn't work. If you work quickly and tape down the pieces instantly, you shouldn't have this problem. Also, ensure your tape doesn't damage your fabric, which is something that happened to me. Use small pieces if this is the case for you. Make sure you glue right up to the edge of the fabric-covered pieces without letting the glue show.
  20. Add the side pieces the same as above after the middle dries (give it a couple hours).
  21. For the back, you will now want to cut your base piece up the middle. Add the back in two parts - left and right. Using double-sided tape, tape the back pieces together at the back here and there to keep them together while you glue the big connected piece down.
  22. Trim any excess foam that might be showing if the back is too big. Test to check the size is correct on your body. You will likely need someone to help you with this to pull it together.
  23. Cut at least 3 strips of velcro to keep the corset together at the back. I used Goop to glue the velcro on and taped it down until it stuck. I used strips of the rough side facing outwards and sticking out, and covered the inside edge with felt using more Goop to keep it strong. I used strips of the soft side facing in so it would attach looking as one piece. If you like, you can use a hidden lacing system (could be useful if you need to strap it up yourself).
That costume was the BEST at the Winnipeg C4 Comic-Con! You should have won all the awards for each skill level lol! Keep it up!
<p>Thank you so much! I was shocked to win Best in Show my first time at a convention. Can't wait to make another costume! If you see me again, say hello ^_^</p>
<p>All I can say is, AMAZING.Your work and attention to detail is seriously top notch! </p>
<p>Wow, what a determination to finish this build. I builded a kit-car in less time. I really like some of your ideas.</p>
<p>Nice &quot;ible&quot;!!!</p>
<p>Great outcome</p>
I also was at Winnipeg comicon. Sorry I missed you. That suit is 300 hours well spent!
<p>Voted for you for every contest. Wow just WOW! My husband is going to love to see this costume. So very cool. You really did an exceptional job on this. I can't say enough. I hope you win something cool. You should take grand prize on something for sure. </p>
<p>Thank you so much!!! If you make this and need help with anything, let me know :)</p>
That's very kind of you. Thanks. :-)
<p>Wow! Great!</p>
<p>Nice Work. 300 hours, wow! Your patience was well worth it. :)</p>
Samus is here? On our planet? I feel suddely safe. <br>Incredibly well done costume.
great job. some good techniques here. thanks for the ideas.
<p>You are AWESOME</p><p>The armor looks so good!</p>
<p>You have my vote!... now.... can you turn into a ball? :)</p>
<p>Apparently anyone can! lol</p><p>But honestly, because of the corset top, I can't bend over to tie my shoe in this very well ;)</p><p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/xziKVv2yQJU" width="500"></iframe></p>
<p>Oh my. This is a highly impressive costume, and an incredibly well-documented instructable. Your finished Samus costume is excellent, and all the details are so nice!</p><p>Everybody else in the costumes contest just got a bit fearful..</p>
<p>Thank you so much! Can't wait to make more costumes in the future. Next time I'll take tons of progress photos ^_^</p>
Please do! You obviously do great work, so you should show it off!

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Bio: I am an English language teacher who loves crafting. If you are in need of a creative teaching idea, I just might have the right ... More »
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