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Step 2Parts and resources guide
Here is a guide to the main parts you will need by popular request (see the comments attached to this unstructable from other visitors). They can be obtained from more than one place - i.e. this list is not cast in tablets of stone. You will need to be creative and resourceful otherwise you are unlikely to succeed:
1) Control system: ATmega32 controller on a development board. This is one of a family of processors made by Atmel called the AVR series. The ones from robot project suppliers are ideal:
http://www.active-robots.com/products/controllr/active-boards.shtml
Note the "AVR isp downloader" on the same page. Get this to allow you to transfer your program from your PC to the microcontroller. Software comes with these on a CD. Google "AVRStudio4" and download a free copy of the software from Atmel website that you will run on your PC to write the program whic you will eventually transfer to the memory of your AVR microprocessor.
2) A solid state accelerometer and solid state gyroscope. Since I built the project, they can now be both obtained pre-soldered to a board. This is what I would use if doing it again:
IMU Combo Board - 2 Degrees of Freedom - ADXL320/ADXRS150
http://www.active-robots.com/products/sensors/sparkfun/imu-gyros.shtml
The accelerometer I actually used was:
Accelerometer Interface Board ADXL202JE �un)
and the gyro I actually used was the Silicon Sensing Systems CRS-03 gyro: http://www.siliconsensing.com/CRS03packaged
3) Motor. This is the motor I used, 24Volt 420 Watt. It was a reasonable price but quite heavy. There are others with better power and lighter weight (but cost more) also cheaper ones from China on ebay for electric scooters (google "electric scooter motor" and you will find a selection of alternatives). My motor was the 2.8Nm one at the bottom of this page:
http://www.motioncontrolproducts.co.uk/index.php?cPath=25&osCsid=1905800baa1799fc97c0a97697db22fa
4) Motor controller. Takes signals from microcontroller and uses them to control how much power it transmits from batteries to motor. Has to be capable of handling high currents. Several exist for control of heavyweight combat robots (google around the "robot wars" type websites and you will see what I mean). The OSMC one I used is high power, has extra circuits to stop you breaking it, and is actually a reasonable price for the current it can handle (it still is not exactly cheap though)- see the OSMC towards the bottom of this page:
http://www.robotpower.com/catalog/
5) When you buy the motor, you need to look at the diameter of the spindle. Over this spindle you need to fit a small sprocket (wheel with teeth for a chain to go around). I knew nothing about karting before I built this, this is what the internet is for, finding out the things you do not know. I found (one of many) kart spares websites and I ordered a sprocket with as few teeth as possible to fit my particular motor spindle diameter:
Azusa engineering in the US do about every sprocket size and spindle size imaginable: http://www.azusaeng.com/Sprockets/AzSDno219.pdf
6) Chain: I used 219 chain, this is a thin chain size more often used in karts in Europe than the US. There are others that in the US might be easier to get. If you put 219 kart chain into ebay you will find loads of suppliers. To shorten it to the length you want, take it your local bike shop, they do this all the time.
7) The big sprocket on the main axle: Any online kart shop sells these in many sizes. They bolt to a standard sized carrier (the red thing in centre of my axle in following photos) with 6 bolts. Therefore you can buy a few different diameter sprockets and experiment. Just one sprocket carrier will do for all of them. These are example links only:
Big sprockets for 219 chain: http://www.talon-eng.co.uk/talon-karts.asp?c_urn=&bike=&show=
Sprocket carrier for 30mm axle: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280227333529&cguid=d7fe085c11c0a0aad24491c4ffeeb887
Bear in mind karts have axles in various diameters. You might well choose a smaller diameter axle. The only reason I chose 30mm was that I managed to buy a single kart wheel second hand on ebay and it happened to have a 30mm axle requirement.
8) Wheel: Biggest rear kart wheel you can find on ebay or kart shop in your town: Example: http://www.kartingnortheast.com/kart-shop/wheels-tyres-and-accessories.htm
These are UK examples but there are online karting shops in the US too. For one single wheel I would definitely try ebay. You do not need the latest magnesium wheel hub, just a cheap battered used one will do fine.
9) Get a kart axle, about $40 online. Diameter does not matter just make sure it is same as the hub for your wheel and the sprocket carrier is also designed for the same diameter axle. This can all be done via the net and ebay. Do an afternoons worth of research online, find best suppliers and prices in your area, then order everthing so they all match up as a set.
10) Finally you need bearings for your lets us say 30mm axle. Example of a US supplier who could probably supply you with all you need (cheaper to root around on ebay though):
http://www.mfgsupply.com/GoMiniAxlesKits.html
11) Laser cut steel side panels: First of all you can do this just as well with a hacksaw but it will require more effort! Any machine shop near you can copy a cardboard template for you in steel. Offer to pay cash. Another option is to go to a metal sheet supplier and offer them cash for their offcuts lying in a heap behind their big sheet cutting machines. Take home a few sheets and experiment.
Failing everything, mock up your entire frame in cardboard, take it to a metal fabrication business ( the sort of company that make steel shelving etc and advertise in local directories) and simply ask if they can copy it for you in sheet steel. Again offer some cash. Don't be afraid to look silly, otherwise you never learn anything.
12) Batteries. Mine were lead-acid 12V each, 12 Amp-hour. However have a read about big motors and big batteries for combat robots here and work out which combination would be best for you (and your wallet):
Here is a link to a US website/shop which has loads of info on battery packs, motors etc for large combat robots - read and learn:
http://www.robotcombat.com/products/batteries_battlepacks_nimh.html
13) Don't know how to program in "C" or how to program a microcontroller? Well neither did I. Check out the links to other projects on my website (link on page 1 of this instructable). Some have downloadable code - study it. For free downloadable tutorials on "C" hit the web again. Here is one example: http://winavr.scienceprog.com/short-introduction-to-c/
This website is also one of many on so called "AVR programming" i.e. how to program the Atmel series of AVR processors, of which the ATmega32 is but one. There are forums (full of robot builders) for AVR programming. e.g. "AVRFreaks" for example.
On page 1 of this instructable you will find a link to my website. this site has links to every segwayTM clone others have built, self balancing model robots, other skateboard projects from around the world and some unicycle designs. Each of these sites has more information you can dig into. I have also described my (imperfect) software with explanatory notes on what each line of code is for. Some of the fixes I suggest took me weeks to solve. I have saved you hours and hours of stress! This site represents months of research on the web. It may not contain everything you need but I humbly suggest it will give you a very good start. This instructable is intended as a guide to get you past a few of the main stumbling blocks and blind avenues that kept me puzzled for very long periods. It is not a nut and bolt guide otherwise it would have 200 pages. It is however probably one of the best guides to DIY one wheeled vehicles out in the ether so far.
You almost certainly will NOT have all the skills at present you need to build this project. Few people if any have ever been "formally" trained in ALL of; i) Metalwork, ii)Mech engineering, iii)Electrics iv)Electronics (v) Microcontroller programming, vi) "C" programming. I am not an engineer of any type and am not a computer programmer. If your deficiencies put you off at this early stage then do not bother. On the other hand I work by the maxim that "anyone can learn anything to a basic standard after about 50 hours of work" if you believe this to be true then you can do this project and it will also help you in life. This project will stretch your mind and patience. Are you someone who gets things done or one who says "I could have done this if only for X or Y"? I am not saying this is easy by any means but do not give up because there is some aspect you do not (yet) understand......hit the internet and find out. That is what it is there for. If you are good at the mechanical side you may have no idea how to program the microcontroller and those who may find the programming dead easy may struggle with the mechanical parts. This is why it is such a good challenge and why colleges sometimes get groups of students, rather than individuals, to build segwaysTM copies as projects.
Break the task down into smaller sections and have a go. The cost can be spread because this will take weeks or months to complete if just using odd periods of spare time.
Best of luck, have a go!
1) Control system: ATmega32 controller on a development board. This is one of a family of processors made by Atmel called the AVR series. The ones from robot project suppliers are ideal:
http://www.active-robots.com/products/controllr/active-boards.shtml
Note the "AVR isp downloader" on the same page. Get this to allow you to transfer your program from your PC to the microcontroller. Software comes with these on a CD. Google "AVRStudio4" and download a free copy of the software from Atmel website that you will run on your PC to write the program whic you will eventually transfer to the memory of your AVR microprocessor.
2) A solid state accelerometer and solid state gyroscope. Since I built the project, they can now be both obtained pre-soldered to a board. This is what I would use if doing it again:
IMU Combo Board - 2 Degrees of Freedom - ADXL320/ADXRS150
http://www.active-robots.com/products/sensors/sparkfun/imu-gyros.shtml
The accelerometer I actually used was:
Accelerometer Interface Board ADXL202JE �un)
and the gyro I actually used was the Silicon Sensing Systems CRS-03 gyro: http://www.siliconsensing.com/CRS03packaged
3) Motor. This is the motor I used, 24Volt 420 Watt. It was a reasonable price but quite heavy. There are others with better power and lighter weight (but cost more) also cheaper ones from China on ebay for electric scooters (google "electric scooter motor" and you will find a selection of alternatives). My motor was the 2.8Nm one at the bottom of this page:
http://www.motioncontrolproducts.co.uk/index.php?cPath=25&osCsid=1905800baa1799fc97c0a97697db22fa
4) Motor controller. Takes signals from microcontroller and uses them to control how much power it transmits from batteries to motor. Has to be capable of handling high currents. Several exist for control of heavyweight combat robots (google around the "robot wars" type websites and you will see what I mean). The OSMC one I used is high power, has extra circuits to stop you breaking it, and is actually a reasonable price for the current it can handle (it still is not exactly cheap though)- see the OSMC towards the bottom of this page:
http://www.robotpower.com/catalog/
5) When you buy the motor, you need to look at the diameter of the spindle. Over this spindle you need to fit a small sprocket (wheel with teeth for a chain to go around). I knew nothing about karting before I built this, this is what the internet is for, finding out the things you do not know. I found (one of many) kart spares websites and I ordered a sprocket with as few teeth as possible to fit my particular motor spindle diameter:
Azusa engineering in the US do about every sprocket size and spindle size imaginable: http://www.azusaeng.com/Sprockets/AzSDno219.pdf
6) Chain: I used 219 chain, this is a thin chain size more often used in karts in Europe than the US. There are others that in the US might be easier to get. If you put 219 kart chain into ebay you will find loads of suppliers. To shorten it to the length you want, take it your local bike shop, they do this all the time.
7) The big sprocket on the main axle: Any online kart shop sells these in many sizes. They bolt to a standard sized carrier (the red thing in centre of my axle in following photos) with 6 bolts. Therefore you can buy a few different diameter sprockets and experiment. Just one sprocket carrier will do for all of them. These are example links only:
Big sprockets for 219 chain: http://www.talon-eng.co.uk/talon-karts.asp?c_urn=&bike=&show=
Sprocket carrier for 30mm axle: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280227333529&cguid=d7fe085c11c0a0aad24491c4ffeeb887
Bear in mind karts have axles in various diameters. You might well choose a smaller diameter axle. The only reason I chose 30mm was that I managed to buy a single kart wheel second hand on ebay and it happened to have a 30mm axle requirement.
8) Wheel: Biggest rear kart wheel you can find on ebay or kart shop in your town: Example: http://www.kartingnortheast.com/kart-shop/wheels-tyres-and-accessories.htm
These are UK examples but there are online karting shops in the US too. For one single wheel I would definitely try ebay. You do not need the latest magnesium wheel hub, just a cheap battered used one will do fine.
9) Get a kart axle, about $40 online. Diameter does not matter just make sure it is same as the hub for your wheel and the sprocket carrier is also designed for the same diameter axle. This can all be done via the net and ebay. Do an afternoons worth of research online, find best suppliers and prices in your area, then order everthing so they all match up as a set.
10) Finally you need bearings for your lets us say 30mm axle. Example of a US supplier who could probably supply you with all you need (cheaper to root around on ebay though):
http://www.mfgsupply.com/GoMiniAxlesKits.html
11) Laser cut steel side panels: First of all you can do this just as well with a hacksaw but it will require more effort! Any machine shop near you can copy a cardboard template for you in steel. Offer to pay cash. Another option is to go to a metal sheet supplier and offer them cash for their offcuts lying in a heap behind their big sheet cutting machines. Take home a few sheets and experiment.
Failing everything, mock up your entire frame in cardboard, take it to a metal fabrication business ( the sort of company that make steel shelving etc and advertise in local directories) and simply ask if they can copy it for you in sheet steel. Again offer some cash. Don't be afraid to look silly, otherwise you never learn anything.
12) Batteries. Mine were lead-acid 12V each, 12 Amp-hour. However have a read about big motors and big batteries for combat robots here and work out which combination would be best for you (and your wallet):
Here is a link to a US website/shop which has loads of info on battery packs, motors etc for large combat robots - read and learn:
http://www.robotcombat.com/products/batteries_battlepacks_nimh.html
13) Don't know how to program in "C" or how to program a microcontroller? Well neither did I. Check out the links to other projects on my website (link on page 1 of this instructable). Some have downloadable code - study it. For free downloadable tutorials on "C" hit the web again. Here is one example: http://winavr.scienceprog.com/short-introduction-to-c/
This website is also one of many on so called "AVR programming" i.e. how to program the Atmel series of AVR processors, of which the ATmega32 is but one. There are forums (full of robot builders) for AVR programming. e.g. "AVRFreaks" for example.
On page 1 of this instructable you will find a link to my website. this site has links to every segwayTM clone others have built, self balancing model robots, other skateboard projects from around the world and some unicycle designs. Each of these sites has more information you can dig into. I have also described my (imperfect) software with explanatory notes on what each line of code is for. Some of the fixes I suggest took me weeks to solve. I have saved you hours and hours of stress! This site represents months of research on the web. It may not contain everything you need but I humbly suggest it will give you a very good start. This instructable is intended as a guide to get you past a few of the main stumbling blocks and blind avenues that kept me puzzled for very long periods. It is not a nut and bolt guide otherwise it would have 200 pages. It is however probably one of the best guides to DIY one wheeled vehicles out in the ether so far.
You almost certainly will NOT have all the skills at present you need to build this project. Few people if any have ever been "formally" trained in ALL of; i) Metalwork, ii)Mech engineering, iii)Electrics iv)Electronics (v) Microcontroller programming, vi) "C" programming. I am not an engineer of any type and am not a computer programmer. If your deficiencies put you off at this early stage then do not bother. On the other hand I work by the maxim that "anyone can learn anything to a basic standard after about 50 hours of work" if you believe this to be true then you can do this project and it will also help you in life. This project will stretch your mind and patience. Are you someone who gets things done or one who says "I could have done this if only for X or Y"? I am not saying this is easy by any means but do not give up because there is some aspect you do not (yet) understand......hit the internet and find out. That is what it is there for. If you are good at the mechanical side you may have no idea how to program the microcontroller and those who may find the programming dead easy may struggle with the mechanical parts. This is why it is such a good challenge and why colleges sometimes get groups of students, rather than individuals, to build segwaysTM copies as projects.
Break the task down into smaller sections and have a go. The cost can be spread because this will take weeks or months to complete if just using odd periods of spare time.
Best of luck, have a go!
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Mar 12, 2009. 7:43 AMquploid
says:
For the side panels, waterjet machine shops can be faster and cheaper for single part runs, if you have one near you. Most shops will draw your part from cardboard, or will take electronic files directly to cut.
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