Introduction: Shoji Style Sliding Closet Doors, From Scratch.
My house had the generic metal bi-fold closet doors which look very cheap. I wanted a higher end look but not a higher end price tag. After pricing real Shoji doors at near $1000 I decided I could build something similar, make it more durable, and make it cost a lot less.
I built this from scratch, with simple tools and a special jig called the Kreg Jig. It is available at the big box home improvement stores. I will show you how to use this jig, although the instructions it comes with are very easy. Simple to use with a professional result.
Step 1: Step One: Plan It Out
I am writing this about a year after I completed my doors, so I don't have my original draft paper to show you. I measured my opening and drew it out on a piece of paper. To make 2 sliding doors with overlap of one edge, find the centerline of your opening and draw a line. Figure out how large you want your wood frame to be. I used poplar wood because it is lightweight and more importantly, cheap. I just used the width that the wood comes in for the bottom and I cut it in half for the vertical frame pieces. Once you have the dimensions of your wood, add 1/2 the width of a vertical side to the final width of the door. That should be right but check your own dimensions to be sure. Mine did not come out perfect because the closet frame is not square.
You can make any pattern you want in the middle of your doors. I choose a pattern based upon the size of the "shoji screen" I had. You can use various items for this, but I choose Corrugated Plastic (the stuff plastic signs are made of) that I ordered online from a craft supply site. It's translucent but not enough to see your junk in your closet and it looks really cool with a light behind it.
Sliding door kit
Step 2: Step Two: Make the Frame
Now comes the fun part. The Kreg Jig I mentioned in the intro is invaluable to this instructable. The kit cost around $30 if memory serves correctly and is simple enough for a child to use (if you let children use power tools). The jig includes everything you need except for the clamp. It also includes the screws but you will probably need to buy more. They have a special head on them for use with the driver attachment included with the jig. I won't give a step by step on how to use it but the pictures are pretty self-explanatory.
When you construct the frame, its best not to do it on the floor as I did. The reason is because the clamp will raise up the pieces when you drill them together and you will end up with a frame that is warped.
ALSO NOT PICTURED BUT VERY IMPORTANT!!! Square up your sides with a carpenter square and check it after you screw the pieces together to keep it square!!
Step 3: Step Three: Hang the Door
I found a sliding door kit for $15 at the big box home improvement store. It included the upper rail and 4 hangers which are adjustable.
Measure and mark your holes and mount the rail.
I measured a set distance on the door frame on each end of the frame so the 2 hangers would be spaced evenly.
The kit also included a piece for the floor to keep the doors in line. So far I have not needed it but I recommend using double sided tape on your floor instead of drilling if you do use it in case you change your door in the future.
Step 4: Step Four: Adding the Middle Pieces
This portion is where you can get creative. If you have a big enough insert piece you can do different kinds of geometric patterns. I kept mine simple but you don't have to!
Remember to measure twice and cut once! Drill your jig holes into the middle pieces and attach them to the frame. I added the middle divider first then the shorter pieces to it second.
Step 5: Step Five: PAINT!
I originally wanted to stain the wood but I got lazy and after trying out a few different stains I wasn't satisfied. I ended up using some Rustoleum black paint I had laying around. It gave a high gloss black finish to the wood. I like it a lot.
Step 6: Step Six: Add the Backing
Corrugated plastic is easy to cut with a utility knife so measure it out, and slice it up!
I attached mine to the wood using small screws and washers. If you use the plastic like I did, make sure the screws are deep enough into the frame so when the plastic deflects you can't see it from the front of the door.
Step 7: Step Seven: ENJOY!
Congratulations, you now have custom made closet doors. They look much better than the construction grade metal doors and will surely add some value to your home.
The total cost of this project, including buying the special jig, was right around $100. The corrugated plastic was the most expensive part, over $50 but I have enough left over to do another set of doors. I am also planning on using the same plastic in the master bathroom with wooden dowels securing it against the glass but that is another project.
Thanks for viewing my instructable!!