Introduction: Smart Master/Slave Power Strip for Your PC [mod] (self Shutdown But Zero Standby)
![Smart Master/Slave Power Strip for Your PC [mod] (self Shutdown But Zero Standby)](https://content.instructables.com/FVX/H8BL/FY3KH7OK/FVXH8BLFY3KH7OK.jpg?auto=webp&fit=bounds&frame=1&height=1024&width=1024auto=webp&frame=1&height=300)
![improved mounting for the main gearmotor on Jura Coffeemachines [mod]](https://content.instructables.com/FRF/ZA0R/HKM96A6H/FRFZA0RHKM96A6H.jpg?auto=webp&crop=1%3A1&frame=1&width=130)
Off should be off. And usability should be good.
To make it short: We did not find the right product out there, so we ended up modding one.
We bought some "Energy Saver" power strips from Zweibrueder. The devices are
very solid and not very expensive. They feature an external switch and no further intelligence.
You can place the switch in a good spot and leave the cabling under your desk.
The major drawback when using those power strips with manual on/off switches
on PCs, is that you'll have to wait for your PC to shutdown completely before pushing the off
switch. (which can take some time when running Windows ( ... installing Update 12/24 .... do not turn off ....)).
You shouldn't press the on/off-Button before complete Shutdown for obvious reasons.
To make it short: We did not like it. Nobody wanted to wait for shutdown.
The perfect power strip should:
- turn on the PC when turned on
- turn off itself completely (and all devices attached to it) after PC has shutdown
- waste NO energy while off
We came up with the idea to mod the power strip to a USB-powered power strip.
USB Ports deliver 5V as long as the PC is running. Every PC has USB-Ports and 5V are nice.
The scenario:
1. Push Switch on power strip
2. PCs turns on itself (BIOS Setting: restore state after power loss)
3. USB-Ports on PC supply 5V immediately
4. USB/5V powers optical relay and sustains power for PC
5. Switch on power strip can be released
6. power remains as long as the PC delivers 5V
7. After PC shutdown: 5V are missing, relay is not powered any more = everything is off
The roadmap for this mod:
- mod on/off switch to push-button
- install optical relay to override push-button during on-state
- install USB cable to power optical relay during on-state
- fit everything into switch housing
DISCLAIMER:
This is just how WE did it. This should only show you what is possible and leads
to a good solution.
Only try if you are aware of the high voltage running through this.
We are not responsible for anything.
elha2 - Harald Elsperger
xpecto AG
Step 1: Parts and Details
You need:
- "Energy Saver" from Zweibrueder
- USB Cable with normal USB-Plug on one side
- some heat shrink hose
- optical relay / SSR (we used Sharp S202SE2) Datasheet
- fitting Resistor for 5V, here: 330 Ohms (see Comment below)
- Tools for cuting, welding ...
- Screwdriver (we needed to make a small cut to fit the screws, so we used a old one)
Working Point of the Solid state relay:
The typical working point is 20mA and 1.2V. (min. 8mA, max. 50 mA)
This way you'll need:
(5V - 1.2V) / 0.02 A = 190 Ohms. We choosed a 330 Ohms Resistor as it
was laying around and just draws 12 mA from the USB.
There is a note in my datasheet that the SSRs degrade over time.
This is the reason for going not to close to 8mA.
Designed for PCs
We selected parts for "normal" PC loads. You shouldn't run big loads like Motors or
Machines from the Power strip.
The Design even works well with some Satreceivers and Flat-TVs who have a USB-Port.
Step 2: Open External Switch, Change to Push-button, Begin Wiring
Use Screwdriver to open Case. Tear everything out.
Use Pliers to remove Spring on the Bottom of the Switch.
This way the Switch becomes a push-button.
Free contacts on Switch with knive.
Remove Wires from Contacts on the right side.
Step 3: Free Up Some Space, Put Everything Back In
You'll need to mod the case a bit. The Relay has to fit in and we want the
Status LED/Lamp to fit in as well. You should try yourself.
Put everything back into place.
Solder the two wires and one contact of the Lamp together and heat shrink it.
Step 4: Solder Relay
This is the tricky part.
You'll have to solder the Relay in a way that it bridges the remaining two contacts.
We put some solder on the contacts prior to mounting.
You'll have to bend and adjust the Pins of the relay in a very special way to fit in.
Please take care otherwise the pins will break.
See photos.
Solder the relay to the contacts.
Take care, they need to survive the full power plugged into the power strip.
Step 5: Add USB Cable
The Relay is in Place. So we need power for the Relay.
Cut the USB-Cable, bring out the black (GND) and the red (+5V) Wire.
Solder the 330 Ohm Resistor to the Plus/+ Pin of the relay.
Solder the black (USB) wire to the Minus/- Pin.
Solder the red (USB) Wire to the other end of the Resistor. Apply Heat shring tubes.
Step 6: Cut Hole, Put Together, Done!
You should cut a hole for the USB-Cable.
Assemble everything. Put the screws back in place.
Congratulations! You're done.
USB-Ports:
We found the newer ASUS-Boards do not power of the USB-Ports after shutdown.
We simply faked an USB-Port (remember you only need 5v) with an old USB-Breakout-Cable and
an attached Molex-Powerconnector (like Harddisks).
Simply attach a Harddisk-Cable to the 5V-Line of the
USB Port. I'm sure there is a instruction somewhere how to do it.
(just connect red and black, cut the rest) As you'll connect only
5v on the USB-Port, you're able to connect every USB-Device there without destroying it.
See Photo
