I had some materials left lying around the workshop, so I though I might have a go at making a Greek style helmet. I'd seen the ones from the Film Troy, and 300 but a search of the interweb threw up LOADS of slight design variations.

I wanted a slightly decorated one, something just slightly different from the ones I'd seen. I might use this for a body painting at some stage, but  made it to fit me for a change.

Check out this awesome instructable on a card helmet as well:

By Honus

One of the very best I've seen using card as the basis, fantastic work. Had I found this earlier I might have used his dome template instead of constructing one from scratch. Grrr

Step 1: Getting started

The basis for all my helmets is a card dome made to fit the wearer. This is reinforced with resin and then coated with car body filler and sanded smooth. It takes quite a bit of effort doing it this way, but it is cheap.
For tools and materials see my other 'ible on making an armour mask. Same basic principles and using the same set of materials and tools.

In this case however, the dome needs to be a smooth shell. I started with some old cut up cereal boxes for the basic card. I measured my head from just above the eyebrow, over the tops of my ears to get the correct dimension for the base. Mine came out to 23 inches. I cut two strips 12 1/4" inches long and 3/4" wide. This gave me a 3/4 inch overlap on each for gluing. The advantage of doing it this way is that the glue tabs will tend to create a slight oval rather than a circle which is exactly what we want for a helmet. Your head ain't round.

Once glued together, I cut some strips 3/4" wide to start to build the dome. By varying the length of the first strip you can vary the shape of the dome. How 'pointed' it is etc.
This dome must be smooth, so I joined the first strip to the circle we made using masking tape. The ends of the strip actually rest on the top of the circle. This is fiddly to do but will pay dividends later.

Note: As each stage dries, keep test fitting to make sure that it is still the correct size AND SHAPE for your head. You should be able to get a finger between your head and the inside of the circle.

Next cut the first two side strips. It is important that these are exactly the same length. These will form the first two side supports for the dome. If you measure and position the strips carefully, then you will get a concentric dome. If however, like me, you want  to alter the shape of your dome, then by moving them relative to the circle you can force the first support strip to change it's shape. I wanted a softer curve at the front and a steeper one at the back. I set my second supports off centre (towards the rear) by about 4mm. This forces the crest of the dome towards the rear of the helmet. Join the two support strips with masking tape, again butting the ends of the card.

Next I cut 4 more strips of cereal box, and using the 'by eye' method (that means an educated guess), I joined each strip to the base circle then bent them in to the correct general shape. Holding them against the crown I marked them, and then cut them with a scalpel so that they were a good butting fit with the crown. I joined them with masking tape.

Now it gets really fiddly. I switched to a much thinner card, 160gsm printer card in fact. I cut three sheets of card into 3/4" strips and offered one up to the frame of the dome I had made. Again using the 'by eye' method I calculated the correct length to reach from the circle to the crown. Working on alternate sides of the circle I started adding in strips, only securing them with masking tape at the base. I then glued the top sections into the inside of the crown trying to bend them to follow the contours of the frame.
Once they had all dried I started adding in the final sets of strips buy gluing them onto the back sides of the strips already in place. Once the glue had set I used little strips of masking tape to fully secure the bases and the crowns of each one.
After two days of work, including all the drying times, I had a dome that was already pretty smooth and the correct shape. This will require far less filler later.

I did a test fit, then finally gave each and every joint line a fillet of glue using my finger. I then let it dry overnight.
this is awesome. thanks!
<p>I'm studying ancient greek in school!</p>
Do you have a PDF or template for the faceplate
now where can i get resin. you have &quot;Davids FastGlas Resin&quot;, and the car filler im guessing it &quot;Halfords Exhaust Repair Putty&quot; most of that is not found near me. i need help.
Wal-mart or Canadian Tire. Check out the auto repair section. I use mainly Bondo products.
Looks like a Magneto helmet needs to happen over here using this method.
That is sick!!!!!!!!!!! do u think u could make a ww2 helmet using the same technique?
I like how you make the dome. I unfortunately made my helmet using Storm the castles template with a balloon and Papermache. This left me with a very tight fitting helmet that gave me a headache at the end of the day. I will be using your method in the future. Thanks for the instruct-able!!
can you load the template onto the site? would be awesome
Nope, I made it up as i went along and the templates are now embedded in about 6 layers of resin. However, the ones I adapted can be found here:<br> <br> <a href="http://www.stormthecastle.com/how-to-make-a/spartan-helmet.htm">Templates</a><br>

About This Instructable




Bio: Untidy, disorganised and a bit silly. I am a photographer, artist, body artist, sculptor, prosthetic maker, model engineer, and general idiot who likes making stuff ... More »
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