The problem was that I'm such an electronics newbie that I didn't know where to start. After reading through many web pages and forums, I was able to put together this Instructable. I wanted to have the information I learned all in one place, and easy to follow.
Comments and suggestions are welcome and appreciated as I'm still trying to learn all this stuff.
Edit:
Fellow Instructable member, Janw mentioned to me that it's always a good idea to add a capacitor or 2 near your power. He mentioned using a couple of 100nF capacitors should work. I'm very grateful he pointed this out to me, because my first production circuit that I'm building upon this circuit, was having a little bit of strange behavior. So I hooked up one 10uF capacitor near my power, and it started behaving correctly! I don't know why it didn't affect my 'blinking LED' test, but I do know that I'm grateful for Janw for pointing this out to me. Thanks Janw.
Edit2:
Building upon the previous edit, I wanted to mention that Instructable member, kz1o brought out some more information regarding the capacitors. Please see his comment below, dated February 14th, 2010 @ 10:52 am.
Update - This Instructable is on Hack a Day!
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Signing UpStep 1Parts needed
#1 - (Qty: 1) - ATMega328 chip with Arduino bootloader pre-installed ($5.50)
#2 - (Qty: 1) - 5VDC Switching power supply ($5.95)
(Note: If you don't use a switching power supply, you must add in a voltage regulator and a couple of capacitors...see below)
#3 - (Qty: 2) - 22 pF ceramic disc capacitors ($.24 / ea)
#4 - (Qty: 1) - 16MHz Crystal ($1.50)
#5 - (Qty: 1) - Power jack ($.38) (Optional)
#6 - (Qty: 1) - Breadboard (hopefully you have one laying around, but if not, here's one. ($8.73)
#7 - Small pieces of 22 awg solid wire. If you don't have any, you can probably pick some up at your favorite electronics store.
Total cost for above before tax/shipping: about $14 (not including breadboard).
Alternatives / options:
Option / Alternative #1:
If you want to use an existing power supply you have around the house, make sure it is between 5V - 16V. If you are not sure if it is a regulated switching power supply, then you must use the following components too:
#1 option - (Qty: 1) - 5V Voltage Regulator (or another similar 5V voltage regulator) ($.57)
and
#1 option - (Qty: 2) - 10 uF Aluminum Capacitor ($.15 / ea)
(See below reference links for how to hook them up)
Option / Alternative #2:
If you don't want to use standard items #3 and #4, you can replace those with:
#2 option - (Qty: 1) - 16 MHz Ceramic Resonator (w/cap) ($.54)
This part looks like a ceramic capacitor, and you hook the 2 outside pins up to where you would hook the crystal up (covered later in the Instructable), and the middle pin goes to ground. At least this is what I've read - I haven't tried it yet. But as you may note, it is a little cheaper to go this route. :)
Ok, let's start hooking stuff up!
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"make sure you place it between the capacitors and the chip/microcontroller"
It was my understanding that each row of the bread board was a node in a circuit and it didn't matter what order (left to right) the leads are placed into it. Is this a correct understanding of nodes and rows on bread boards?
If so is there another reason the crystal needs to be between the capacitors and the chip?
I'd like to know, can this board be used with any chip or does it have to be an Atmega chip? Also, would you happen to know how to modify this board to so that batteries are used instead of power jack? I have a few projects in mind that require the use of batteries so it would help me a lot.
Thanks again for sharing!
All the pins are direct connections from the chip it's self anyway, so all you add are the external "non Arduino" components.
Here's a couple of links to get you started: itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/Tutorials/ArduinoBreadboard#toc9 and www.arduino.cc/en/Hacking/Bootloader
Hope this helps.
uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html
?
(Sorry it took so long to get back to you)
Build this, I built one because I didn't want to buy an expensive programmer for a small project, but I just keep on using it because it works great. Follow that guide, it says how to build a cheap, easy to build programmer out of parts that you should easily be able to get a hold of. You do need a parallel port on your PC, and I think you have to set it into a certain mode (in the BIOS), took a little while to get it working but I have used this to flash the Arduino bootloader on plenty of "plain" AVR chips.
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9420
instead of a crystal and two capacitors.
it worked great for me.
However, because the crystal generates the clock for the microcontroller, if you use a frequency other than 16Mhz you will get a wrong timing from the Arduino library.
The moral of the story is that it's critically important to your success that you follow the data sheet's recommendations and also pay attention to what you see in the application notes. Doing so will save you lots of headaches later on.
Keep this in mind: the power supply is usually the only element that can cause a complete systematic failure. It is often the part that gets the least attention, with tragic results (depending on the project, of course). Good luck! and remember to RTFM.
Thanks for all the information. I edited the Instructable to point users to look at your comment regarding the capacitors. I will have to take a look at the datasheet/manual for the ATMega328!
And thanks for checking out my Instructable!
>> and upload it to your chip
Could you describe this process/steps/etc.
Thanks!
Getting started with Arduino . I enjoyed the book, and think it would help you too. Also, the Arduino website is a good source of information too.
Thanks for checking out my Instructable!
Maybe this might interest you. I got bored of needing a wallplug or powersupply when working with these chips on a breadboard so I made this little thingy. It takes the 5V from a USB connection (and has the power-on led on it). It is very handy because I always have my laptop on my workbench.