This instructable (entered in the Arduino Challenge contest - you can vote for it above) shows how to make a stripboard Arduino shield for programming either ATtiny45 or ATtiny85 microcontrollers with an Arduino, as per these tutorials from the High-Low Tech group at MIT:

Arduino board as ATtiny programmer
Programming an ATtiny w/ Arduino 1.0

The top link shows a breadboard arrangement for the programming set-up, but if you're working with lots of chips it's neater to do away with all those wires and just have something you can plug in to use when needed!

You will need to follow the instructions at the first link in order to configure both your Arduino programming environment and your Arduino board to be able to use this shield. It's worth working through the breadboard version before tackling this, so you know everything else is working as it should...

To make this shield, you will need:

* Some stripboard (I'm using a piece with 14 rows and 23 holes)
* A few lengths of wire (I'm using single core)
* 2 x pieces of female headers, with 4 pins/holes
* 1 x socket for an 8-pin IC chip
* 1 x 10uf capacitor
* 1 x 8 pin length of male headers
* 1 x 6 pin length of male headers
* ATtiny45 and/or ATtiny85 chips to programme
* An LED to check the blink sketch has uploaded correctly

* Soldering equipment
* Pliers
* A well-lit working environment - helps to avoid having to do the soldering again in the morning *ahem*
* Some permanent markers might be useful
* A track-cutting tool, a drill bit or a sharp knife

Step 1: Prepare the Stripboard and the Headers

First make sure you have an appropriately-sized piece of stripboard.

Is doesn't really matter what size it is, so long as it is big enough to straddle the Arduino board with at least a few holes either side (soldering right to the edge has a tendency to cause the copper stips to lift up and detach from the stripboard). The main thing to look out for is to make sure the copper strips go in the right direction - they should be going across the board rather than along its length.

The next thing we need to do is prepare the 8-pin strip of male headers to accommodate the offset spacing on the Arduino board (you may skip this step if you're using a clone board that already corrects this).

Follow the relevant instructions from this instructable - https://www.instructables.com/id/Embarassingly-Easy-Arduino-ProtoShield/ - to angle the pins. You will also need to push the pins down so they are level with the top of the plastic so that you have enough length underneath to make a good connection with the Arduino board.

Check they all work together
Place both sets of headers in the stripboard and check it all fits comfortably into your Arduino board. Make sure nothing fouls against the USB socket or anything like that.

I found the adjusted headers worked best with the off-set to the right as you look at them from their side of the stripboard.

yeah thank u for that example
<p>You can also download my gerber files to have your own PCB built, which fits on an Arduino Uno from here - <a href="https://goo.gl/4sY3iV" rel="nofollow">https://goo.gl/4sY3iV</a></p><p>I am also working on designing more programming boards for other chips as well - <a href="https://oshpark.com/profiles/DanR" rel="nofollow">https://oshpark.com/profiles/DanR</a></p>
<p>Great Instructable! Certainly makes programming ATTinys a whole lot easier.</p><p>Here are some pics of mine blinking..... </p>
Link isn't working :(
Here is with led and jumpers for both led and cap
why the jumpers? aren't these caps just on the wrong rows?
And with a reset button
Nice one - thanks :)
Is it necessary to set the fuses first?
I will add the LED to the shield for testing the blink sketch.
Thanks for the compliment! :) With regards to the LED for testing the blink sketch, I noticed that on <a href="http://hlt.media.mit.edu/?p=1695" rel="nofollow">http://hlt.media.mit.edu/?p=1695 </a>it says<br> <br> &quot;If you then connect an LED between pin 0 and ground, you should see it blink on and off. Note that you may need to disconnect the LED before uploading a new program.&quot;<br> <br> I've not tested to see if this is dependent on which pin the LED is connected to (maybe it doesn't matter on pin 3 or 4?) but it might be worth investigating further before soldering stuff up...
Easiest would be to attach a led via a 2 pin header in series, with a shorting block to connect or disconnect the led
Is that a 555 in the pic?
Hah! Yes! Well spotted! <br> <br>I'd like to be able to say that I keep my workspace tidy and complete each project before moving on to the next, but I got a bit of cross-pollination with this one... <br> <br>I hadn't noticed that it had infiltrated that photo - thanks for the heads-up!
thanks for the help!!! <br> <br>waggles Pom-Poms towards the UK and gives three cheers!
Fantastic Instructable. I've linked to here from my <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Make-an-Attiny13-based-IR-proximity-sensor-for-2/" rel="nofollow">Attiny13 proximity Sensor Instructable</a> in the programming step.

About This Instructable




Bio: Artist, perpetual protovator. Don't mistake me for someone who actually knows stuff!
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