High power LEDs are getting cheaper and cheaper, however the constant current drivers, to drive them are pretty expensive.
Here, I'll show you how to built a simple and cheap, yet very effective constant current source.
The image shows the constant current driver hooked up to a 1W white Luxeon LED.
EDIT: This LED driver supports PWM, which means that you can control the brightness of the LED(s). Those fancy and expensive drivers doesn't support that. I'll post some schematics and applications as soon as i have time.
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Signing UpStep 1Get the Parts.
a LM317 Regulator.
a Resistor (see next step).
a Heatsink for the LM317 (you don't need one as big as mine, I just took one i had laying around).
some Luxeon, or other brands of high power LEDs (see next step too).
some Wire to hook it up.
it will be a good idea to use a heatsink for the LED as well.
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I m making a 90W Led panel,Using 1W led(rating 350mA,3.2V)
In which design shud i make it??
And for Led lights panel,Constant current source is better or Constant Voltage source??????
n do the series or parallel combinations of LEDs affect the efficency or temperature of the panel....
Please Email me the design at
good_boy_9211@yahoo.com
What's the advantage(besides power savings) of the modded PWM version ov, say, using a variable resistor in THIS circuit.
To control brightness.
Or am i confusing voltage and amperage yet again?
(sorry, bast my normal bedtime)
I found a very cheap LED driver that claims can drive up to 10A current
I dont know know and never tried building it building it, here is the circuit
copied from a site
http://www.simple-electronics.com/2011/09/cheap-power-led-driver-circuit.html
here is the sites circuit
So you cannot use full bright!
I am trying to build this, but I am using two 10w LEDs with a Vf of 3.6 and a current consumption of 2800 mA. For the life of me I can't figure out what regulator to use. Any ideas?
could you help me in designing a circuit for lighting 10 w power LED or 1*10 watt leds..
Thanks,
Yugang
Lee
THE LEDhttp://cgi.ebay.com/30W-White-High-Power-2100LM-LED-Light-Lamp-Bulb-A_W0QQitemZ220708010099QQcategoryZ163866QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m263QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%252BC%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D10%26pmod%3D220693236934%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D5621333683761900258
CAN I USE THE LM317 OR I NEED A DIFIRENT VOLTAGE REGULATOR
THE INPUT POWER WILL BE 16V
could you please help me in designing to light 10w power led or 1w * 10 led?
I appreciate your help!
Yugang
http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM117.pdf
"The LM117 series of adjustable 3-terminal positive voltage
regulators is capable of supplying in excess of 1.5A over a
1.2V to 37V output range."
P = V * I = 16 Volts * 1.5 Amp = 40 W
I think you can. Go for it. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. Gonna keep reading this DS...
Input voltage : DC 4.8V - 5.6V
Led : 3 X 3w Leds, working voltage 4v - 5v each led, so had to wire in parellel.
Prefered current : 0.8A - 0.9A
Now I am just using resistor to do the job.
Please email to ngwanhoe@yahoo.com
Thanks a million.
If wire the Leds in series then I would have to put in 8v - 15v power supply. Don't have space for so many batteries.
reg
ketan
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May the best of men and their source always prove to be a blessing.
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I have 50 blue and 50 white leds, here are the spec:
" http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h329/broxlin/Proiect%20Diamant/Blue.jpg " and " http://i1104.photobucket.com/albums/h329/broxlin/Proiect%20Diamant/White.jpg ".
This will be the light for my reef tank.
I want to make 2 or max 4 lamps, if it's possible, so one circuit for 25 / 50 leds.
If I put less leds, the number of sources will be higher and the cost the same.
How can i make it better?
Thanks!
I've been studying this subject.
This regulator seems just what I'm looking for. Not tuned in yet on the "constant current" concept though.
I want to drive twenty 1 watt LED's in series. Each uses 2.79 volts and 350 mA.
So if I drove them in parallel I'd need 2.79v but a staggering 7 amps !
I asked an electronics teacher and he said "run them in series".
So then you need 28 volts but only 350 mA for 20 watts, plus a balancing resistor.
Very little power wasted.
As I understand it each LED sees 350mA, but the voltage pressure drops progressively until finally it hits the resistor.
The constant current concept is a consistent way to safely drive power through the LED's one or many. You are correct the voltage goes up on your supply demands, but the constant current (or current regulator) provides the proper power control.
Hope that helps to explain constant current concept
would it be best to run these all with different drivers or all in series or a mixture and also what would be the best regulator for the system. I'm nearly at the point of comprehending all of this but thats not the same as understandingit to a competant enough level to make it, just yet.
Cheers
I'm planning on using the LM1084it-adj vs the LM317.
So far I've figured based on datasheets @ 700ma, I should have about 2v total drop with the 1084 (1.25adj+ ~.8@700mA). Is this correct?
My source is going to be a computer PSU converted to a benchtop PSU, using the 12V out. Based on my LED's datasheets, I should be at about 2.2V per Red or Yellow @700ma, based on this, the 1084 will be dissipating 1.2V@700mA with 4 red or yellow LEDs wired in series (total of .84W). For the blue I've figured ~3.6V for 700mA, with 2 in series the 1084 would have to drop ~2.8V@700ma (1.96W).
Forgive me, I am a relative newb to electronics, does my math seem correct? Am I misinterpreting the datasheets when it comes to how much voltage the 1084 drops under varying loads?
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3339/4629373728_186cbc5e3f_o.jpg
(If the link doesn't work, just type "current source" on the linked website, www.dealextreme.com, and browse for the correct input voltage)
I just received it today, so haven't managed to tried it myself, but googling the driver's datasheet (AP3706), definitely a true current source! The product is rated to 350mA, but if you're good with electronics, you can change the Rsense (which I only can guess at the moment which one on board) to suit