This instructable will cover the details of the Vertical Garden built for my "Hydroponic, Automated, Networking, Climate Controlled Greenhouse Project". The vertical garden is a space saving way to grow up to 72 small plants (such as lettuce, spinach, strawberries and lots of different herbs) all with the plant health benefits of hydroponics. The Vertical Garden is designed with modularity in mind, to be brought into the greenhouse and installed as a single unit, with only connection to the existing plumbing required before you're ready to grow. The installation of additional Vertical Garden units should be quick and easy.
Other Instructables that cover elements of the "Hydroponic, Automated, Networking, Climate Controlled Greenhouse Project" are listed below with many more to come:
Part 1: Construction of the Greenhouse
Part 2: The 72 Plant Vertical Garden
The greenhouse when completed should be equipped with a large, centralized hydroponics system capable of supporting up to 40 large plants (tomatoes, bell peppers, banana peppers, etc.) and up to 72 small plants (lettuce, spinach, strawberries, etc.) for a total of up to 112 plants. The greenhouse will be equiped with an arduino based climate control system capeable of monitoring the indoor environment through a variety of sensors (temperature, light intensity, humidity, CO2 concentration, etc.) and automaticly adjusting each variable by controlling different devices (exhaust fans, louvre doors, heaters, grow lights, solenoid valves, pumps, etc.). The readings from all the sensors as well as the on/off status of all of the devices should be sent out over the internet and be viewed remotely and in real time from any computer or mobile phone.
As of this moment the greenhouse's skeleton is all that is completed. I didn't get as much done over the summer as I had hoped because of the nasty weather. However, over the winter I am working on constructing most of the hardware to go inside the greenhouse including the climate control system. I hope to be up and running by the time it's warm enough to start growing.
Each major section of this project should be it's own instructable and when it's all finished I'll compile it into a guide. Right now I'll show you the features of the Vertical Garden ready for installation in the spring.
Other Instructables that cover elements of the "Hydroponic, Automated, Networking, Climate Controlled Greenhouse Project" are listed below with many more to come:
Part 1: Construction of the Greenhouse
Part 2: The 72 Plant Vertical Garden
The greenhouse when completed should be equipped with a large, centralized hydroponics system capable of supporting up to 40 large plants (tomatoes, bell peppers, banana peppers, etc.) and up to 72 small plants (lettuce, spinach, strawberries, etc.) for a total of up to 112 plants. The greenhouse will be equiped with an arduino based climate control system capeable of monitoring the indoor environment through a variety of sensors (temperature, light intensity, humidity, CO2 concentration, etc.) and automaticly adjusting each variable by controlling different devices (exhaust fans, louvre doors, heaters, grow lights, solenoid valves, pumps, etc.). The readings from all the sensors as well as the on/off status of all of the devices should be sent out over the internet and be viewed remotely and in real time from any computer or mobile phone.
As of this moment the greenhouse's skeleton is all that is completed. I didn't get as much done over the summer as I had hoped because of the nasty weather. However, over the winter I am working on constructing most of the hardware to go inside the greenhouse including the climate control system. I hope to be up and running by the time it's warm enough to start growing.
Each major section of this project should be it's own instructable and when it's all finished I'll compile it into a guide. Right now I'll show you the features of the Vertical Garden ready for installation in the spring.
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Signing UpStep 1: The Supporting Frame
Every good project starts with a frame, including the Vertical Garden. The frame is constructed out of 2 by 6 lumber that was ripped down into 1 1/2 by 3/4 inch strips. Every attachment was made first by gluing the joint and then fastening it with 18 gauge 1 1/4 inch brad nails.
Each horizontal piece holds one PVC grow tube, with a small machine bolt passing through the PVC pipe and the horizontal member and then secured with a nut and washer. Each PVC tube is secured with two fasteners. Each fastener is located near a hole for a mesh pot. That way a screwdriver can be easily inserted into the bolt head while the nut on the other side can be tightened with a wrench.
The vertical members are positioned so that they match up with the studs in the corner of the greenhouse. When the Vertical Garden is installed, it will be attached to the studs via these vertical members.
Finally, at the top and bottom of each outer vertical member is a diagonal cross member that keeps the whole structure from flexing while it is free standing. The bottom cross member is also a point of attachment for the supply manifold.
Each horizontal piece holds one PVC grow tube, with a small machine bolt passing through the PVC pipe and the horizontal member and then secured with a nut and washer. Each PVC tube is secured with two fasteners. Each fastener is located near a hole for a mesh pot. That way a screwdriver can be easily inserted into the bolt head while the nut on the other side can be tightened with a wrench.
The vertical members are positioned so that they match up with the studs in the corner of the greenhouse. When the Vertical Garden is installed, it will be attached to the studs via these vertical members.
Finally, at the top and bottom of each outer vertical member is a diagonal cross member that keeps the whole structure from flexing while it is free standing. The bottom cross member is also a point of attachment for the supply manifold.
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Nice instructable btw.
Having said that: Nice hydro set up :-)
That being said, I like the basic design, but I have to agree with the other comments about aeration, leaks, and PVC diameter, and I have one additional recommendation: Rather than have the angle in the center, leave the structure straight and support it with PVC about 2" greater in diameter with holes drilled for the growth chamber tubes. You can the create feet for it simply by using "T" slip joints at the bottom. By drilling the support PVC offset by 1/4", you'll have gravity on your side for flow and wont have to drill anything into the growth chambers that is likely to cause them to not be light-tight and leak nutrient solution as well.
Oh, and a venturi valve on each of the nutrient lines as it goes into the growth chamber will likely solve any aeration problems without adding any extra power use. Why more people don't do this in their systems is beyond me.
You could probably get away with one master veturi for aerating the water, then routing after the valve.
They're pretty trivial to make, too, and designs are all over the internet. It's pretty much a plastic tee-fitting with a nozzle on the inside and an air inlet normal to the jet of water.
1. You're going be miserable with 3" pvc. The plant roots will clog it quickly as they form in to a thick mat.
2. Your plumbing is overcomplicated. There are many places in your system to clog and leak. I would consider simply pumping the nutrient solution in to the top row, and then letting gravity drain it down to the rows underneath as it makes it way back down to the reservoir. Again, use wide pipe to connect the ends of the rows together to avoid clogging. There's really no need to for manifolds, valves, etc. etc. etc. unless you enjoy tearing it all down and cleaning roots out of them every couple weeks.
3. Are the five gallons buckets your reservoirs? If so, they're not nearly big enough. Also, I would try to reduce them to one single large reservoir to reduce upkeep. I understand that this isn't always possible depending on the variety of plants you intend to grow... but maybe you can narrow it down to a couple of groups... heavy and light feeders or flowering and nonflowering, etc.
Overall, if I were you, I'd start with a much, much smaller system to begin with. Learn what works and what doesn't, then scale it up to greenhouse size. Be patient with it (just as with any other form of gardening) and you'll be rewarded. :) Enjoy the journey my friend.
I have giant veggie plants BUT the pipe is clogged AND I cannot get the plants out of the pipe to transplant them.
To point 2. Cost is another reason to not have all those little connectors n such. Im looking for some ROI on the garden and I saved about $100 by minimizing.
To point 3. dont forget to consider to the volume of solution the pipes will hold when planning the reservoirs.
Since then I switched to "sub irrigation" or SIP systems.
Good luck, Chefmichel.
can you post a pic of it in action
I also see that one person uses "corrugated drain pipe which is white on the outside and black on the inside." What size drain pipe? is this the 6" coiled pipe? I've only seen it as black colored inside and out. Does that matter?
Great ideas here. Would love to give it a try.
Would there be a problem feeding the grow tubes in series, the drain from a higher grow tube feeding the inlet to the next tube below?
1) Put your drain and nutrient input on opposite ends of each tube. This will keep the nutrients from stagnating at the far end of the tube. Stagnation will start to become a big issue as the roots grow and start to choke off the tube. The one issue you might run into with this method is that if the roots get thick enough and your input flow is too high, the nutrients might start leaking out the net pot opening. You could solve this with a second higher drain at the nutrient input end or just put a trough under the lowest tube to catch and return any nutrients that leak out.
2) Since the roots are going to be immersed in the nutrient solution you will want to make sure the solution is well oxygenated. The roots will rot if the solution is not well oxygenated. Plants that grow better in dryer soil will tend to be more susceptible to rot. A large aerator in your main nutrient tank may be enough if you keep the nutrient solution flowing, but if you turn off the pump for extended period of time, your system may work better with a small airstone in each tube.
Once you get the system going be sure to post updated on how the system works and any issues you have found so we can all learn from this.
The nutrients will be circulated with a 1HP sprinkler pump which will also supply the rest of the greenhouse at the same time from a central reservoir, with airstones.
Congratulations on a great Instructable! Your photos are outstanding! If I decide to go that route, I am sure I will be able to follow your directions.
Thanks!
Thanks for posting.
I built a very similar setup about a year ago and it is growing strawberries quite well right now.
Here are some things that I found with my experience.
I used 3" pots, they are not big enough for strawberries.
I also placed my pots 6" on center, this is a bit too close together for strawberries.
With the pots set at an angle like that, be careful that your plants don't get too big and pull themselves right out of the holes.
I am not sure that a single 1/4" feed per row is going to be enough flow for that many plants.
Keep an eye on your pinholes, they will clog with the most minute debris.
Watch your root growth, I am using 3/4" returns and found that the plant roots can grow so large that they will easily clog the pipe.
I have read that white PVC can actually let light in, which can damage your roots. (I used corrugated drain pipe which is white on the outside and black on the inside.)
Those end caps will probably leak a little bit, not a major problem I assume since your greenhouse is outside. Maybe you could use threaded on end caps instead if leaking is a problem.
Also, for strawberries, If you start from plants get them going as soon as possible and don't expect a huge harvest the first year (of course). If you want to start from seed, start about two months ago and don't expect much the first year. There are tons of varieties of strawberries out there, the ones you buy in the store are horrible tasting in comparison. Look for Alpine Strawberries, they are supposed to be amazing flavor in comparison, but you may have to start from seed.
I wish you luck, that thing looks great!
A profesional instructable.
congratulations
maybe you should have provided a drawing of the circuit as I'm a little bit lost with all those pics with white and blue tubes … but that's a minor point.
Agains this is an outstanding project.
Thank you.