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The Automatic Button Pusher (or ABP from now on) is a quirky little device that will simply extend its "pusher" at a user set time. I originally designed this device as a simple way to schedule my Roomba robotic vacuum to clean while I was at work

The device will use a ordinary digital alarm clock to trigger an electric motor momentarily. The average tinkerer can easily build a similar machine and I hope my Instructable guides you smoothly through the process.

Lets get to it!




Step 1: Lets Get the Parts We Need

There is a fair bit of parts you will need for this project:

(I have tried to include a part number to get most parts although some of these things can be found locally too)


1. A digital clock radio - the bigger and cheaper the better.
2. A car door lock actuator - (AllElectronics #DLA-1)
3. Machinists Magnetic Base - (LittleMachineShop.com #1237)
4. Prototype Circuit Board - (Digikey #V2012-ND)
5. NAND Logic Gate - (Digikey #CD40107BE)
6. MOSFET - (Digikey #IRFZ14PBF-ND)
7. Potentiometer 100k - (Digikey #490-2971-ND)
8. Capacitor 10uF - (Digikey # P5148-ND)
9. Resistor  1k (qty 2) - (Digikey #P1.00KCACT-ND)
10. Diode 1N4001 - (Digikey #1N4001FSCT-ND)
11. Battery 9v Alkaline
12. Miscellaneous - (zipties, wire, hardware, glue, elastic band, heatshrink, etc)

Tools Required:

1. Various screwdrivers
2. Soldering Iron
3. Hacksaw
4. Hand drill or drill press.
5.Wire cutters/strippers
6. Hot glue gun
7.Heat gun or lighter
8. Hammer with center punch.
9. Multimeter
10. Files
11. Permanent Marker
12. Countersink

Step 2: Design the Circuitry

The device works by manually setting the alarm on the clock. When the alarm goes off it will trigger the actuator to push our button (whatever it may be). The problem is we need a way to make the actuator activate only momentarily because otherwise we will burn out the motor/electronics. This is tricky to do because the signal from the clock will always be high (because nobody is home to turn the alarm off)

The solution is a simple circuit that will briefly turn out actuator on and then off, even though the input is always high.

Step 3: Test the Circuit


I always test things on a breadboard before soldering. I got mine from AllElectronics (#PB-1680) and it has been invaluable.

 Apologies,I forgot to take a picture at the time but I did take a brief video of my test setup.


Step 4: Layout the Circuit on the Proto Board

Here I just inserted the components without soldering to figure out what size to cut out of the proto board. I try to make it compact but I always leave some extra space because you never know.

Step 5: Cutting the Board Out

A hacksaw and vice can do this job just fine if you don't have access to a bandsaw or similar power tool. Be sure to put some cardboard between the material and the vice to prevent the jaws from gouging the circuit board.

Be sure to clean up the edges with a file when you are finished cutting.

Step 6: Solder the Components


Place the components back into their spots and turn your soldering iron on. We're aiming for shiny solder joints that are not too blobby (although that can tricky with the pads on these proto boards)

Don't be too hasty to trim the leads, you can bend them and use them as some of your jumper wires if you want.

Use wire to complete the rest of your connections, mine is a little messy but it will get the job done.

Step 7: Disassemble the Clock Radio

Now we need to modify our clock radio so that it will trigger our circuit. It is unlikely you will have the same clock as me so this process will be a little different for everyone.

Make sure you unplug the clock or remove its batteries, no need to shock yourself or accidentally short circuit it.

Remove all the screws that are keeping the clock together. I find that using one of those small magnetic trays to keep the screws from getting lost is a very good idea. If you want to buy one of these trays you can very easily make your own.

I've included an Instructable-Within-An-Instructable in this step's image notes to show you how to do it!


Step 8: Find Your Triggering Signal

**Use caution when working on open electronics like this**

For our circuit to work we need a 5v signal that will appear when the clock radio's alarm goes off. This can be tricky because (as in my case) there may be no schematic available anywhere.

First I had to find the clock's microcontroller as that would have some output lines to turn the speaker on. This was pretty easy on my clock as it only had 2 ICs. The writing on the chip was faded so I had to guess what pin to use as the trigger.

I did this by first powering up the clock with no alarm set, and then (being careful not to short out anything) use a multimeter to measure the pins of the chip. In my case there was quite a few pins that were at 0v.

Then I set the alarm to go off and remeasured each pin. Some of the pins that measured 0v previously now read 5v. Hooray!

Step 9: Add Your Trigger Wire


Now we need to run a signal wire from the pin of the microcontroller out to the circuit board we built. I soldered a length of 24ga wire directly to the pin, being careful not to create any solder bridges on the adjacent pins.

I routed the wire out the back where the clock's AC power cord exits.

Be sure to strain relief the wire so that it won't break at the solder joint if it gets tugged on. I simply hot glued it to the circuit board in the clock.

Step 10: Connect the Signal Wire to Your Circuit Board

Solder the wire to the input of the potentiometer, the circuit is nearly operational.

Notice the diode that suddenly appeared on the circuit board. I completely forgot to include it in Step 4, good thing I left extra space!

Step 11: Modify the Actuator


Since the actuator will only be powered in one direction we need to make sure that it will stop pushing the button after the time cycle. We are going to do this mechanically by using a small rubber band as a bungee to pull the piston back in.

I used a hacksaw to cut a small slot in the tip of the actuator so that I could keep the rubber band in one piece.

I used a washer with screw as a flange to make sure the band doesn't slip off.

Step 12: Attaching the Actuator to the Magnet Base

The magnet base is designed to hold a dial gauge, a measuring tool used in machining operations. The magnet base uses a threaded rod and a knurled nut to hold the dial gauge on.

To mount the actuator, I ran a long screw through the bored out mounting hole on the actuator casing. Then I tightened the knurled nut on that screw, and the thread the entire actuator assembly onto the threaded rod of the magnetic base.

Step 13: Cut the Steel Mounting Plates

The magnetic base has a switch that will activate a powerful magnet that will hold the base tightly to any ferrous surface. I figured the easiest way to attach it to the clock was to add some steel plate to the top of the clock, and then just stick the base on.

I dug around my scrap bin until I found an appropriately sized strip of steel. It was not big enough to cover the magnet so I cut it into 2 strips instead.

I used a hacksaw again to cut the steel, the only difference was I used cutting fluid (Rapid-Tap) this time, it makes cutting hard materials a breeze!

Be sure to clean up the edges with a file, not only will it make the plates look better but it will protect you from nasty cuts as well.

Step 14: Drilling Holes in the Steel Plates


My plan to to mount the plates with a couple #4-40 screws with nuts so we'll need to drill some holes through the steel.

First of all I would highly recommend to anyone who likes building things to invest in a drill press. You can get a 8" bench-top drill press for $80-100 and in my opinion it will be the best money you've ever spent. (Although these days I do wish mine was a little bigger  and had a wider variety of speed settings)

I follow a 4 step process when I drill holes:

1. Measure and mark the spot you want to drill.
2. Use center punch on mark.
3. Drill hole.
4. De-burr hole with a countersink.

Step 15: Drill the Holes in the Clock

Now we have to drill matching holes in the top of the clock frame. To make the marks I just align the drilled steel pieces where they are supposed to go and then  use a permanent marker to make a dot through the holes.

The clock frame piece was too awkward to sit on my drill press table so I just used a power hand drill instead, plastic is easier to drill this way.

Always make sure you take apart the device before drilling. One of my earliest tinkering memories is destroying my toy RC monster truck by accidentally drilling holes through the frame and into its circuit board.

Once all the holes are drilled we can mount the plates with the hardware, reassemble the clock, and then stick the magnetic base on.

Step 16: Mount the Circuit Board

We need to mount the circuit board somewhere, preferably mostly out of the way. I decided to mount it to the back of the magnetic base. Since the base is made out of metal we need to make sure the bottom of the circuit doesn't touch it and short circuit everything.

I decided to use some "cable tie mounts". These are just little molded pieces of plastic with sticky adhesive foam on the bottom. If you stick them to a flat clean surface they have a crazy amount of holding force.

Step 17: Wire Everything Up

All thats left to do before we test it out is make sure is wired up.

I started by extending the wires on the actuator so they can reach the circuit board. I used 18ga wire for this job, making sure the wires were long enough to adjust for any position the actuator is in.

I just like using a basic lap splice instead of twisting wires together. First I make sure I've slid heat shrink tubing on before soldering. Then I strip and tin both wires that to be spliced together. Then I melt the tinned wires together, slide the heat shrink in place and cover the connections.

I used 24ga wire to run the battery connections out to the right spots on the circuit board.

I used another cable tie mount to add some strain relief to the wires, a little messy but it will do.

Step 18: Test It Out!

Now it should be ready to try out! Plug it in, set the clock, and hook up the battery. All that's left to do now is think up interesting ways to use this device. Happy building!
<p>This would be perfect to cheat an online game! :D</p>
<p>Would it be possible to use the 5V current from the alarm clock to power the actuator instead of adding a separate battery? I'm planning to use a timer-outlet and a USB charger instead of an alarm clock to generate my initial 5V current (so I'm not worried about a lack of current), but how would the actuator react to 5V instead of 9V? Just less speed/force? I would think that would be okay for a button press.</p>
My gut feel is it would still have enough force to press most buttons.
<p>Is there any way to make it press a button twice in rapid succession? I like double espressos in the morning.</p>
This is seriously the most awesome thing I have ever seen anywhere.
Maybe you could hook the sleep button up to a microphone and adjust the clock so it push's when the button is pushed, then lean a phone against it and when you text the phone it will beep and the button pusher will be set off
reminds me of the opening scene in back to the future <br>
dam confuzing<br>
122610 1233<br><br>While you are right there at the drill press, just install a drill bit a few sizes larger than the bit you used to drill the holes with.<br><br>Just lightly touch the drilled holes with the larger drill bit will clean the burrs off the holes and put a nice little bevel on them.
I do the same thing with a larger bit, BUT... instead of wasting the time to install it in the drill press chuck, I just do it by hand. A couple of twists does the job in seconds - much faster than chucking the bit, starting the press, aligning the workpiece, and cranking the bit down to the workpiece for several holes.
I am a research scientist (biological sciences) looking for an automatic button pusher, although of somewhat different specifications to your ingenious device. Could you contact me? eugene@volcani.agri.gov.il
Someone so should make this press the 'snooze' at a the time their alam goes off just for the sake of it!
You didn't watch the whole video did you? :)
Hey, does anyone know where I could buy an alarm clock that would work for this thing?
Dude!!, this is such an awesome invention! Along with an automatic feeder, I'm looking into an automatic sliding gate opener for my pet horse Fluffy's stall door (By the way, he's an 18 hand tall bay thoroughbred; with basically zero &quot;fluffy&quot; charecteristics.). An auto gate opener with timer activation cost around $600. One without timer activation, one with only push button remote controls $280. Your creation could be the perfect $ saver for me! Considering I'll probally need 3 gate openers, I could save about $1000(minus the cost of the button pushers)! Have you ever thought about trying to patent it and sell it to the world? So many people could use one of these for so many different things. I'm almost positive that no one sells an easy to buy, timer activated button pusher. I know pretty much nothing about electronics. Do you think this is something I could easily make? Could you maybe make an &quot;idiot's guide&quot; for creating one of these :)? Also, can you please tell me how much one of these would cost me to make?! Thanks, Jeff
Well there really is no &quot;idiots guide&quot; as you need to know basic soldering and hand tools. The instructable is fairly thorough and I think it could probably be made for $50.
This is fantastic!! Could one wire it to make N button presses instead of just one? I really need to make something similar that could press a button 6 times times in rapid succession (between 0.25 and 1 seconds between presses).
that was great I really loved the video Rue Goldburg in the 20th century
Your Project has been posted on my blog. With credits of course. My blog can be found here:&nbsp;<a href="http://thepowerofmaking.blogspot.com/">http://thepowerofmaking.blogspot.com/</a>
Neat! Thanks!
hi very inreresting, just a question &iquest; where the ouput 5v from the pic goes ? <br>r2 and r3 ?
Yes that is right. I called the output 5v the Alarm Signal in the schematic.
The video was hilarious, especially the snooze alarm (you made another typo, snooze has a silent 'e' at the end). It reminds me of the &quot;most useless machine&quot; thing (flip a switch, a hand pops out and flips it back).<br> <br> Yes, I remember that episode of the Simpsons. &quot;I've tripled my productivity!&quot;<br> Hee hee! :)<br> But when I saw your button pusher, it made me think of Doc's pet feeder machine in Back to the Future. :)<br> <br> I already have an alarm clock whose alarm would go off every 24 hours (the software decided to ignore the alarm disable switch). Instead of throwing away&nbsp;the cheap &quot;made in china&quot; garbage that it was, I used my soldering iron to take out the speaker and add some wires going outside the case for something like this project, but never got around to finishing it. Now that I think about it, I might do it....<br> <br> ...thinking...hmmmm....<br> <br> You know what, if you back out (zoom out, trolley backward, etc.)&nbsp;your mind's eye to a wider cultural and historical point of view, something interesting occurs. I notice that America, in it's march toward technological advancement, took a population of hoop-skirt, horse-and-buggy, post Civil War people, and turned them into post-modern environmentally conscious(spl?) people whose cooking skills are neatly summed up in the microwave, and the way to fashionably clean house is to push a button on an Irobot Roomba. George Jetson's complaints about his button-pushing finger being worn out get less funny every year.... so nerds respond to this single-touch, button-operated culture by making automatic devices that push these buttons... at the push of a button.<br> It makes me wonder about the eventual takeover of the robots; it does not have to be a violent war of flesh against malevolent Big Brother machine (ie Terminator). Flesh could, if it continues, make machine so helpful and benevolent so as to make humans redundant in almost every aspect of life, that humans drive themselves to a depth of insanity that can only be experienced by a person whose wasted potential is forced to the level of insignificance. Example: those replicators on Star Trek. If they are invented and perfected, the manufacturing industry&nbsp;as we know it will mirror what cooking has become when the microwave was invented. The day might come when physical objects, like a solid gold toilet,&nbsp;are cheaper to make than it is to copy a text document (note the exageration). And holodecks combined with replicators, though they can't destroy the economy, they will definitely allow humans to replicate robot servants that take care of everything while we slowly die, living out our reclusive fantasies in the holodecks. Humanity thins out to a dilute nothing as we fall like flies, one-by-one with a self-indulgent smile, while our fantasy holodeck programs continue without us. Nothing exists outside the holodeck. Noone cares; the replicator bots are feeding us and maintaining our objects of lethal addiction. This is my little world, and I am god over it until I die. The semiotics of human culture turn bland as the millenia march onward, leaving our dusty skeletons behind, while the buttons push themselves, as they always have been, since&nbsp;Dec. 19, 2010AD: the day we stopped living, learning, and loving....<br> <br> We are doomed. O_O<br> <br> <br> And it's all your fault. ;) LOL!<br> <br> *Wakes up from epic hollywood sci-fi daydream that had Immediate Music's Serenata Immortale as the background music*<br> <br> Oh, wait, did I type that out loud? The randomest things make me think the most. Oh well. It's just a theory (one that would make a good movie, I might add). If I&nbsp;scared anyone, it's your own fault for reading it, so don't sue me. :P<br> <br> Anyway, I have a question for you; what do you do with the alarm once it's gone off (and thusly pushed a button), do you leave it to make noise? Does it stop the noise making eventually so you don't have to turn the alarm off after it's made you coffee?
By replicator, I mean those things on Star Trek that when you talked at it, it made food out of thin air. What were they called? I can't remember... I want one...
The correct word is &quot;replicator&quot;.
Thank you for verifying that. I was confused because it is also the name for killer LEGO block-bugs that eat everything on Stargate SG-1. Nasty little buggers. I want one of those too. And a Stargate. And a phaser. :) <br>
Hehe actually the 'snooz' typo was intentional as that is how the clock spelled it. (GE was trademarking that spelling perhaps?) If you look closely you can see the spelling in the video. <br> <br>Anyways...that was bleak, but I kinda like my new role in the end of the world. ;) <br> <br>As for your question, you can shut the noise off with the volume dial on the clock, I just left it turned up to better show that the alarm was going off. I'm actually not sure if it will turn off after a certain while.
Oops, I was on my girlfriend's laptop and didn't realize it was logged in as her. :P
the same door actuator can be found here for a cheaper price and mounting hardware. I have one of their stores near me and I found it there while looking for random things for a rube Goldberg machine.<br><br>http://www.sciplus.com/search.cfm?utm_source=internal&amp;utm_medium=search&amp;utm_content=cf&amp;utm_campaign=celsearchtest&amp;formfield1234567891=14&amp;formfield1234567892=12&amp;formfield1234567894=&amp;term=power+locks&amp;btnHand.x=0&amp;btnHand.y=0
Good find! The ones from All Electronics do come with the same hardware though.
cool, i didnt see that it came with the hardware.
An automatic button pusher attached to an alarm clock.... heh, the best use for this I can think of would be automatically turning off my alarm as soon as it rings in the morning ;)
Nice project! I love the simplicity/functionality<br><br>Question for anybody: Could you please explain in more detail the circuit logic? (It's been forever since my electrical engineering courses. I actually feel kinda' embarassed)<br><br>I understand the NAND itself:<br>http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Negated_AND_gate?wasRedirected=true<br>...but I could use more help with the R/C delay, and mainly the R1 R2 leading into the Mosfet. <br>Thanks!
Hey thanks, I'll try to explain although its tricky because this was actually designed about a year before I made the ABP and I really don't know all that much about electronic design. (Basically I dug the original breadboard out and then made this schematic from it)<br><br>Essentially the delay is determined by the amount of time it takes C1 to charge up through R3. Once charged the input of U1 will go high and then because it is a NAND gate, the output goes low, and shuts the power off to Q1.<br><br>Now I'm not exactly sure why I put R1 in, I think an old engineer friend told me it was to prevent &quot;noise&quot; from triggering Q1.<br><br>The circuit didn't seem to work without R2, I think its acting as a pullup resistor to keep the logic gate stable.<br><br>Sorry I couldn't explain more, hopefully a real engineer can chime in :)<br>
I'm not a professional engineer (yet), but I have played around with enough circuits to have a grasp as to what's going on, so I'll try my best. <br> <br>R1, according to my thinking, is not needed, since the motor driver you are using is a mosfet. They are voltage, not current operated, just like the CMOS NAND gate chip. If the engineer friend said it prevents noise, well, I guess so. I don't know enough to confirm or dispute it, but I can say for this application, it would most likely work fine without it. <br> <br>R2 is needed. Why? Well, let's back up and look at R3 and C1. Normally, the alarm signal (just &quot;alarm&quot; for short) is low, or 0v. That means both of C1's terminals are connected to 0v (&quot;GND&quot; for short), and one of the GND's are coming from the alarm, though R3. Effectively, C1, if it had any charge, is emptied out now. <br>Going toward the NAND, we see that both of its inputs are tied together, forming one input. This effectively makes it an inverter (0 in, 1 out and vice versa). Since alarm is off, and C1 is discharged, the inverter's input sees a 0. That make the output 1, or high, or 5v, and that... wait a minute... that turns on the N-channel mosfet, which turns on the motor.... that's not right.... It's supposed to be off. <br>Okay, nevermind; imagine that a high signal means motor is off, and a GND or 0v or low means motor is on. <br>Anyway, when the alarm has been low for a while, C1 is discharged, the inverter sees a 0, outputs a 1 and motor does not move. <br>Now, the alarm goes off. Alarm goes high , and tries to make the motor signal high through R2, but the inverter is still outputting a high (C1 is still empty), and since both are high... the motor stays... off. <br>Anyway, C1 slowly fills up through R3 (it makes an RC, so the time it takes for this can be found with some math), the inverter eventually sees a high signal, so it sends out a low from its output. Now the inverter's output is low, and alarm is still high. Now we have conflict, but since alarm is weakened by R2, the inverter wins, and the resulting signal to motor is low which means the motor is... ummm... on. Yeah. <br>Okay, so that's not what we wanted the circuit to do, so.... let's try this, imagine the alarm signal is already high, and when the alarm goes off, it goes low. And we will scrap the motor's 1 = off, and 0 = on. Okay, let's try again. <br> <br>C1 is full, the inverter is outputting a low, overriding alarm's weakened (high) signal, and the N-channel mosfet is cutting power to the motor. Yes, so far, the scenario sounds good. <br>Now, the alarm signal goes low, because it's annoying like that. Alarm is 0, C1 is still full, so until it empties through R3, inverter sees a 'full' C1, therefore, the inverter still outputs a 0, overriding the ... alarm's 0. So the motor is still off.... <br>Okay, after C1 eventually empties through R3, the inverter finally sees a 0, so it outputs a 1. Alarm is still 0, so that means the inverter's 1 overrides the alarm's 0, so the motor is on.... and it stays that way until.... <br> <br>That's not right, this circuit cannot work as described. There is an error somewhere. Wait.... The NAND chip's datasheet says it has open collector outputs. Now THAT changes things! If the NAND's output was normal, there would be no point to having R2. Okay, let's go through this one more time. <br>First, what is open drain? It's just like open collector outputs. See wikipedia or something for what that means. For now, remember that the inverter's output is either disconnnected for a 1, and connects to 0v for a 0. We replace 1 with essentially disconnecting the output from the circuit. <br>Now, with everything else as described in the ible, let's go tackle it one more time. <br> <br>Alarm is at 0. C1 is empty. inverter's output is 1 (disconnected), so the alarm's weakened signal trickles through R2 to make the N-mosfet cut power to motor. Motor is off. <br> <br>ALARM GOES OFF!!!! <br> <br>Alarm is 1. C1 is slowly filling up, but still looks empty. Inverter makes a judgement call that C1 is empty, and still outputs... nothing (because it's 1), meaning, since the inverter's output is powerless, alarm's weakened signal trickles through R2 to make the N-mosfet on, giving super awesome power to motor! The button gets pushed, we cheer hooray, and, oh no! C1 has finally filled up through R3 (remember, alarm stays 1), and oh no! inverter sees a 1! It now outputs a 0; it's no longer disconnected (ummm, it's now connected to 0v), and the super 0v coming from the inverter overrides the weak 1 (from alarm through R2), and N-mosfet gets 0, and power is CUT, the alarm signal, though still 1, is powerless because C1 stays filled, inverter stays 0, and motor stays off. <br>it WORKS!!! MUwahahahahaaaa! <br> <br>Oh, and when the alarm is turned off (0) by lazy human, C1 makes inverter output 0, and alarm outputs 0, inverter wins and it's 0. When C1 finally empties, inverter sees 0, outputs a 1, meaning it's disconnected. Since alarm is 0 and inverter is disconnected, N-mosfet still sees 0, and motor is still not going anywhere. <br>Need motor to stay on longer? Make R3 (and/or C1) bigger. Motor on too long? make R3 (and/or C1) smaller. <br>The NAND chip's output MUST be open collector/drain! If it's not, you can make it so by using a resistor and a transistor (or just another N-mosfet). <br> <br>Genius one-shot timer circuit. Who designed it? <br>
Wow, thats a long post and it confuses a simpleton like me. :)<br><br>I was originally trying to do it with a 555 as thats my go-to move. That didn't work as monostable 555s don't like to work with a constant trigger. So I asked a engineer at work (I'm an elec tech) and he directed me to a project's schematic that had a more complex version of this for a different purpose. So I used that as a template and changed some things to make it cheaper and better suited for the ABP.<br><br>I'm planning on using the same circuit for a different project but only with an AND gate to act as a power startup delay.
Well, I explained it two times before I finally figured out what I needed to know to explain it properly.... Just look at the 3rd explanation.... <br>Yes, I was wondering why no 555 was used.... <br>If you ever need to learn about making sequencing R/C circuits for more complicated things (such as pushing one button, and activating some other motor, then delay, then off), take a look at BEAM, it's a design philoophy that champions using simple discreet logic chips and circuits to do timed stuff (like a walking robot). With a little modification, &quot;bicore&quot; or &quot;microcore&quot; circuits would give you greater power over what your trigger signal can set into motion (the sequence could even respond to input from other signals to modify the sequence timing!). <br>For more info: <br>solarbotics.com (parts) <br>solarbotics.net (info and tutorials-highly recommended)
Correction: NAND chip's datasheet says it is open drain. ME says it is redundant terminology and I says it is identical to open collector. Both do same thing. Drain = mosfet. Collector = transistor. Same effect on circuit. Angry at self-important mosfet pin-namer. Blah! <br> <br>Wrist hurt from too much typing. Brain hurt from too much analytical critical thinking.
I would like to say that perpetual snooze is better than &quot;fine&quot; art. You should submit this the MoMA!
This thing is almost as useful and multipurpouse as Duct Tape.
congratulation now you can remote detonate an explosive device! <br><br>if you have power going to the speakers when the alarm goes off you can just about use that to power any number of other devices, in this case an actuator to push buttons.<br><br>
Congratulations Desmond, you've been outsourced.
lol i have that same alarm clock!
i have that one too!!!!!! Replace the door actuator with one or more of the following (granted that some re-wiring would be done); car horn, door bell, dispose-all, another alarm clock, siren, a motorized cabinet hinge, house alarm (only the siren piece), some sort of electrical detonation fire-crackers or other firework (use your imagination cough... mortar...cough), smoke detectors, IED, shotgun filled with blanks, a false shelf which falls out and breaks some duplicate dishes that you put there, a newfangled fireplace with that switch ignition, some sort of cage opener that releases some small animal of some kind into one's house, etc..... USE YOUR IMAGINATION PEOPLE!!!!!!!!!
what about a hydraulic actuator that pushes a bucket of water off of a shelf?
thats a good one, now replace the water with slime
I loved the snooze alarm. Excellent Instructable.
+1
I was essentially going to say what he ^ said.<br><br>Love the creativity!
Awesome! Hahahaha Could definitely use that snooze alarm function LOL

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Bio: I like to build things... except for wiring.. wiring sucks.
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