loading

Materials:

1 tube of Red RTV high temp Gasket Maker (from local auto shop)

1 package of Prorepair Screen Repair Kit for aluminum screens(!) made by Prime-Line and sold in Walmart

Selected tin for your stove, (I recommend the TOMURCUK Earl Grey tea can for its design)

Cotton Balls (dollar store)

Scrap of pink fiberglass insulation (ask at any building site for free!)

In the midst of cranking out multiple forms of the pop can alky stove, I began to see a need for a longer burning and more controlled stove. While looking at possibilities of various stove types, my wife suggested a can for me to consider. A simple cubical tea can (3” x 3” square by 3-7/8” tall) of the Tomurcuk band (their Earl Grey tea). The tin was perfect, and I named the stove after the creator of it.

This size can holds roughly 18.7 fluid ounces, which gives a serious fuel capacity to any small stove. You can put a complete bottle of 'yellow' Iso-heet in this stove, press on the lid, and have an emergency or auto stove that holds its own fuel!

In testing this stove, I put a coffee pot with eight cups of water over it on a small windscreen, and had the coffee boiling in 40 minutes, and the stove continued to give heat output for a total of more then an hour and a half! Yeah you read that right, for an hour and a half! For camp cooking, auto camping, emergency needs, heat and enough of it to be useful is important to the max. Cooking for more then one, boiling water to purify it, signalling or having a heat source, this stove is both easy to make and easy to repair without any real tooling. Let's get started;

Step 1: Seal and Check It Twice

Step One – Clean out the can and seal the inside seam at the bottom and the single side seam with the red RTV High Temp Gasket compound. Be liberal with this stuff, and make sure your seal is right the first time. This step will add greatly tot he overall life of your stove so don't scrimp!

Step 2: Balls

Step Two – Pack the bottom half of the stove can with cotton balls firmly, to act as the storage media for the stove. This is the sort of like the balls in your Zippo lighter, the fuel tank if you will.

Step 3: Wick It Right

Step Three – Push in the insulation to form the 'burner element', so make sure it has no holes in it down to the cotton balls. Its job is to act as a wick for the fumes, and prevent fire from reaching the cotton layers.

Step 4: Fire Screen

Step Four – Take one of the aluminum screen patches, and trim it to a square that just fits inside the top edges of the can. (Roughly 3” x 3”.) Cut the corners at 45 degrees to give you a roughly circular screen piece.

Step 5: Final Assembly

Step Five - Press this screen down on the fiberglass and under the edges of the tin's opening. Make sure to use the aluminum screen pieces only! Invert the can and smack the top of the can down smartly to settle everything inside and give a smooth look to the burner area.

Step 6: Check the Seal and Its Done

Step Six – Press can lid on and see that it seats and stays in place. Your stove is now complete, and only needs a touch of High Temp pain to make it weather proof and classy.

Step 7: Tips

Use a simple can wind guard (cut the top and bottom out of a can and punch holes around the top and bottom edge for air control), and you are ready to go. Select a can that is a few inches taller then the stove, and you have room for the flame. This stove can heat to a boil EIGHT CUPS of water in just thirty to forty minutes without worry or problems.

I keep mine in a simple plastic bag in case the fuel leaks, (but haven't had a drop in the bag ever!)

These make easy gifts and with Hi-temp paints, you can personalize them for anyone easily.

Use ONLY the yellow bottles of Iso-heet and you will have no smoking or soot build up to deal with.

<p>Best camp stove I've seen yet.....can't wait to make one.....don't know if I understand what Iso-heet is....the stuff for putting in the car's gas tank sold in automotive departments? Also, I live in USA and have had several of those cans....even in different sizes</p>
<p>Iso heet is methanol, very clean synthetic alcohol (poisonous to drink), that burns clean. Hardware pure alcohol paint thinner worked well for me too. Cheaper in bulk than the automotive gasoline de-watering additive.</p>
<p>Use ONLY the yellow bottles of Iso-Heet, found in walmarts, and auto parts stores. Burns clear, no soot and reliable every time!!!</p>
<p>Denatured alcohol will also work very well. You can buy it in larger containers at hardware, paint &amp; home improvement stores. </p>
<p>iso heet is isoproponol (rubbing alcohol) in high concentration as a fuel additive.</p><p>You can buy 91% isoproponol from walmart. or you can use heet (methonol, don't get it on your skin) or ethanol based solution, like everclear.</p><p>Look at the bottle, and avoid &quot;contains petroleum distilates&quot; as that would make it not indoor-grade.</p>
thank you
thank you for your informative reply....appreciate it<br>andyj
<p>go to zenstoves .net, yellow heet is mostly methnol with a some other things, Iso heet is way better in the tank, but, vile in a stove. Only Use yellow bottle.</p><p>If you have speed shop near your (or a nascar tract , ask around someone can sell you pure unadulterated spirit at a fraction of the cost of small bottles, bring yer own gallon jug. Have other at home so you can rebottle. You need to have as little air in contact with it as possible as it is hydroscopic..</p><p>MAke sure all your rebottle bottles are painted red and have all the warnings. Little kids will not realise it ain't soda and drink it. They die painfully blind and fast. Trust me kids won't even taste it before it is too late. I have a younger sister who drank bleach, twice, (she was 4) she saw a 7 Up bottle mom put down and she swigged it., she thought it was 7 Up. Bleach was delivered to your home (yikes I am old), in jugs, and there were no screw cap soda bottles, You always diluted it b4 using it. So if it were pure bleach I would not have a sister. </p>
Thank you very much for all your information. I didn't know much beyond Coleman fuel and lamp oil. I was a nurse so I do understand your warnings. I also drank 'soda' from the counter at age 9 that was quite delicious.....then one of the adults couldn't find their gin n tonic!<br>andyj
<p>Remeber , avoid Isopropal alcohol, that is Red Bottle of Heet or IsoHeet. Also avoid Rubbing alcohol/isopropol rubbing alcohol.They soot up and usually stink. </p><p>Ethanol, is drinkable highly taxed and the best for a stove, but cost prohibitive. Ethanol also has more calories per ounce so it is a hotter flame.</p><p> Denatured Ethanol as well as Methanol are toxic with small exposure and POISONOUS if you get enough in you. If they do not kill you, they blind you kill your liver, they give you painful ulcers. </p><p>They mmake denatured ethanol by adding a certain percent of METHANOL and / or other chemicals that are very poisonous.</p><p>Storage bottles should be red with skull and crossbones. And bold lettered POISON Flammable. BUT while it is flammable it is also NOT EXPLOSIVE.</p><p>Fumes are always an issue, but coleman stoves and others make CO odorless, tasteless and deadly pretty fast, Alky stoves and prope stoves make CO2 which is ok , but in a sealed room would kill you too. The Aky stove caould make some CO if it is not burning right, (blue) but little of it. and if you have ventilation you should be good. </p><p>People burn Sterno and Fondue pots and don't even consider the issues, but they should. </p><p>Oh Sterno.... not very good, ok to use as chaffing fuel or even as a source for a preheated hot baking set up, but to boil water etc they are slow, they are pure meth spirit in a gelatinous binder. If you have half dried out shriveled sterno add some meth a little at a time , I read they will reinflate, so they can be reused.</p><p>There are also some liquid candle wick type heaters that burn hotter and are chock full of very nasty poisonous and carcinogenic chemicals. Nasty as in do not get it on skin, do not breathe fumes. Why they are legal is beyond me.</p><p>Again check out, zenstoves,net, great info plans for many stoves. Consider a rocket stove for emergencies. make sure you use ungalvanized stovepipe. In a real disaster situation you may be surrounded by shattered wooden structures. A rocket stove will use up small bits of wood and cardboard very nicely, pack a hand saw and a hatchet with it, to make fuel easier to use. If you can make the stove tall you get added benefit of less/no soot on the pan bottoms. They are cheap enough to make a few, (do you cook on 1 burner?)And you could build a summer kitchen outside with an oven!</p><p>be prepared!</p>
<p>A simple wire coat hanger frame will clip on top and support a small pot without the need for added grills or weight. This is almost identical to the alcohol units on my sailboat galley stove, just square and taller. Suckers burned forever.</p>
<p>&Ccedil;aykur. Asın Bayrakları.</p>
So the cotton balls burns but the fiberglass doesn't?
<p>No, the cotton balls don't burn, they &quot;store&quot; the fuel (keeps things from sloshing around and keeps the fiberglass layer at the top of the can. The fiberglass works as a wick for the alcohol fumes...and the fiberglass doesn't burn either.<br></p>
<p>Correct, the layer of fiberglass and the wire screen element stop the fire from proceeding down into the cotton balls as the fuel level drops. Each part of the stove construction is designed to aid the total operation of the stove. The sealer keeps seams from starting to leak as the metal warms up and seams may open. The screen (remember chemistry class and the burner under the flasks) stops the flame from moving through the screen. The fiberglass is a high temperature resistant layer to protect the cotton balls, allowing the flow of fuel vapor up, but not the flame front down to the cotton. </p>
Huh? Swoosh, hand going over head, lol. I can usually catch on but not this time. Sorry, I never got to chemistry in high school, my ADD had me so totally messed up that in our school district we got tested every &amp; assigned to classes according to how well our test scores were. Mine were high, got sent Honors Biology &amp; Honors English (this was late 80's) but couldn't handle it, lol. Luckily our Community College had an alternative program we could stay in one classroom, work on 1 subject at our own pace, graduate when we were ready. I wanted to graduate with my class but was a whole year behind due to having so many problems with classes<br> But I was able to do all the work of 2 yrs in 1 yr but with a minimum of graduating with biology in 1990! So it wasn't until 2009 that I found out that I had ADD. Everything makes so much sense now. Anyways, lol. I think I'll have to ask my son to help explain this one to me. He's into quantum mechanics &amp; is only in the 10th grade in high school, lol. He thinks AP classes r boring, I'm like where did he come from?! Must take after his Dad, lol. But thanks for trying to explain it me.
<p>Just think of the screen as a flame stopper (It absorbs enough of the heat that the process of combustion is stopped. yet the heat itself goes through. This is how those spark proof mufflers work, (a fine screen allows the gas from the engine's combustion through, but in the even of a backfire, stops the spark instantly.) this is the purpose of the stove's screen, a flame stopper.</p><p>As I'm 68, I get to be a bit ADD myself, only we call it a 'senior moment'.</p>
<p>I definitely like the tea and tea cans :)</p><p>good choice for tea :)</p>
<p>I get the tea from a place in Minneapolis called Bills Imported Foods, and they will ship. I love the tea, reminds me of the tea I drank on night watches on tramp steamers as a young man. You make it strong, and tea can warm you better then coffee, and has about as much caffeine. It also settles an upset stomach in rough weather if made a bit lighter then 'Watch Tea'. The cans are heavy walled and strong enough for the stove construction, handling the heat quite well. I even use one with an 3/32&quot; hole in the top as my char can which I load with cut up cotton t-shirt material and just put on the BBQ. Makes a mess of char cloth in minutes. Just let the can burn off the gases from the small hole, and when the small jet of fire no longer comes out of the hole, the char job is done. Sit it aside and when cool, you have scads of char cloth for fire starting.</p>
<p>The red gasket RTV stays pliable and seals even when the stove is hot, JB Weld, while great stuff is not flexible after it sets, and in time the seams might leak.Almost any little tin of a similar size and design will work, so it doesn't have to be tea. The idea was to create a stove that could heat more then a couple of cops of water, could make me a pot of coffee anywhere anytime, and do so for a few penny's and a bit of work. Its now my go to stove for road trips, camping, and will serve well in emergencies and power outages.</p>
<p>This looks awesome! Simple design and easy to build. I was going to say that JB Weld could work in the seams as well but the red gasket stuff will probably be easier to use. Cannot wait to find me some tea tins!!!</p>
Why did you use fiberglass instead of carbon felt?
<p>No carbon felt or carbon cloth to be had, so used the next long term material. Now if someone wanted me to try the felt I would, provided they could furnish me a piece.</p>
Also wanted to say if you plan to use the stove long term, buy a gallon of denatured alcohol and use that instead of the HEET. It'll save you about 75% on running costs of the stove.
<p>Do you have a name of a good brand, (clean and cheap?) I certianly would consider a bulk supply!</p>
Found this pretty easy. Not as cheap as the last time I got it, but way cheaper than HEET. Also, check your local hardware store, they should have it in stock. <br><br><br>http://www.rockler.com/denatured-alcohol?utm_source=google&amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;utm_term=&amp;utm_content=pla&amp;utm_campaign=PL&amp;sid=V9146&amp;gclid=CjwKEAiAgranBRDitfSQk_P7vnMSJAAhx5G5l4RPOoEW7Njon-xsV5o9fiXDcNlz7Vg00moYyNSRuRoC0Erw_wcB
Well that makes sense. But hey, as long as it works, who cares what you used. I think I'll be buying a new kind of tea here soon.
<p>Great creative presentation but my alarm system went off since most cotton balls are so toxic due to pesticides and chlorine to bleach the cotton (dioxins) that we are urged to buy organic ones. Also most cotton balls these days are synthetic, which is also not good. (Read Killer Clothes by Brian Clement, PhD) Burning fuels also release varying degrees of metals we breathe in, and fiberglass is scary all by itself and is being used less and less by in green construction. We all are carrying such a toxic load I point this out to seek to reduce it and be mindful of any kind of burning and what it releases into the air. Having had a neighbor that burned trash and getting bombarded by fumes and particles has made me hyper alert, so sharing to increase awareness of such and not to demean the lovely offering.</p>
<p>As long as this is used in its natural environment(the outdoors) the proportion of fuels that will be ingested will be so ridiculously tiny even after regular use compared to walking through any built up area (even though people still manage to live a very long time in those areas) that its insignificant. I am pretty sure 1 minute of your bombardment will be more toxic than a normal lifetime of using this.</p><p>The difference between burning rubbish containing plastic and other nasty burning materials, burning either lighter fluid or meths in the stove will as the chemical reaction goes when in abundant oxygen the hydrocarbons will oxidise into water and carbon dioxide, both perfectly safe, (this is when a blue flame is burning and no smoke is observed). </p><p>If it is not very efficient, excess carbon will be produced in the form of soot and smoke and the flame will be yellow, this is not bad for you in such a small quantity. </p>
<p>thanx for your erudite explanation ... I was just being a voice for toxicity awareness in general ... since most of it is cumulative and hard to purge out of the system where it stores in our fat, we should at least be aware to consider each and every since it adds up. Surely its not about being a hyperchondriac as stated below, but in my case anyway, viewing my body as a Temple and respecting it, taking care of it. At 72 I am wanting to live a lot longer and I take precautionary knowledge as a privilege, don't view it as a curtailment of my enjoyment. Just offered for awareness, then choose and enjoy whatever priorities you make. Just sayin' :D</p>
<p>Walking out the front door is dangerous. May want to get your hypercondria under check</p>
<p>but neither are being burned. at all. they are merely the means to keep the fuel in the tin without it sloshing around. </p>
<p>After a life in which I spent three years in combat, jumped from perfectly good airplanes, scuba dived, hiked and camped in the Rockies, rode motorcycles and V-8 powered Trikes, and other forms of risk taking, I look back over my 68 years and take things a bit more philosophically. Live life, take a few risks and actually live the moment, we come this way only once. </p>
<p>That's an awesome upcycle for some old tea cans, I can't believe how much water it can boil! Very nice job showing your process, welcome to instructables!</p>
<p>Thanks, been here a while, but too busy as a writer to get enough time to build projects till now. I really enjoy my coffee, and now I can brew a pot over this stove and get eight cups at a time, anytime. (this means I get a few cups if I beat my wife to the pot first!) I can do this if we're car camping, on a road trip at some rest area, or if needed in an emergency. Nan's stove idea has been a joy to develop and play with, and recycling is just 're-purposing' things into usable gadgets. </p>
Curious about the quantity of fuel you're using. I would be using this while backpacking so carrying a lot of fuel is prohibited. A small amount has to last. I wouldn't need more than 2 cups of water. Will this work using less fuel?
<p>Yes, it will work on less, just be aware that this stove was designed for cooking for more then one, and doing more cooking then most penny stoves. Due to the size of the opening in the tin, the burner size is fixed, and so the burn rate is fixed. The wind guard MUST be smaller then the pot bottom to insure all the heat goes to the pot, and not the atmosphere as waste. For just two small cups of water, any stove will do the job, and for weight conscious backpackers, I'd go with a simple penny (pop can) stove. The Nan Stove was designed for emergency use, car camping or roadside stops, and cooking for more then one person. In this case the extra fuel is not a problem to carry, and so this stove works a treat. If you want to use this stove, add a second lid (with a hole of say half and inch in diameter) to reduce the burner area and make the fuel last longer for your two cups pot set up. This smaller hole lid is only used on the stove to extend the small amount of fuel you would use to make the burner flame last long enough for your needs. In this way you can adapt the stove to your special needs easily. </p>
How well does the aluminium screen last? I have used some on a pot stand and find it gets red hot and burns out quite quickly. It lasts longer if you use gel but no time at all with meths <br><br>
<p>Its been well over three months for the stove I built this summer and still going. The flame actually takes place above the screen as its the fumes burning and so the screen and the fiberglass are not subjected to that much heat. Secondly, the mass of the can is absorbing heat from the screen and so lowering the flame effect on the screen.</p>
Or you can drink cold water and wear leaves.
<p>Very good project, and handy outdoor.....Keep it up....</p>
<p>Handy tea cooker for anywhere, What fuels might you use where you are?</p>
We usually use this LPG gas portable stove.
<p>Serious cooking capability there, for just about any size meal. Nice!</p>
<p>Yes Liquid Petroleum Gas (LPG) is capable of any type of cooking in less time.</p>
<p>Thanks! Sweet!</p>
<p>I second to the question about the fiberglass insulation. Is there a functional, less toxic alternative? I hope so - I really want to try one of these! </p>
<p>the only thing about fiberglass that is dangerous is the fact that its fiber thats made out of glass. and its toxicity is revealed when inhaled. use a mask and gloves when handling it and wash up afterwards. you could upgrade to vermiculite to avoid this, but for a reasonably quick stove, the insulation will do the trick.</p>
<p>A guy above suggested Vermiculite, thinking it over, he might have a really good idea. As for the current design of the stove, I have NOT had the fiberglass melt yet, it will pack down a bit over time but haven't gotten it hot enough to melt the glass.</p>
<p>I made something like this, but what I did was take a new unused paint can and put a new roll of toilet paper in it and soaked it with one large bottle of 91% alcohol. Let the toilet paper soak up the fuel from inside the can. Then basically did the same thing. It burned for quite awhile and gave off a lot of heat too. Paint cans new can be bought at hardware store in fact my local store has all the parts and fuel in the store. I just dump the roll later when I'm done. Great job I liked your instructable!</p>

About This Instructable

67,629views

510favorites

License:

Bio: Ex-Navy, Retired Mechanical Designer, Gadget Addict and Fiction Writer. Love all things mechanical and some electronics, and also wine making, mead making, good whiskey and ... More »
More by trike road poet:Twig Stove Camo Your Firearm The Nan Stove 
Add instructable to: