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If you have been on the look out for a project that combines, RGB LED's, a motor, a microcontroller and a ridiculous amount of hot melt glue, then you have certainly come to the right place.
Allow me to introduce the 'One Chip' Spinning RGB POV Display
This project allows you to create (with minimal components) a fantastic customizable display capable of displaying graphics, animations and text. You can scroll your graphics from top to bottom or use it as a scrolling message display, scrolling from right to left.
The project uses just one chip, eight RGB LED's and a handful of other components to paint animations in 'mid-air!' Plus, together with the included graphic conversion software (download link in step 2) you can easily create your own animations because the software creates all the code for you.
So please, read on and enjoy!
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Signing UpStep 1Get your required parts and tools.
Before we set out on this venture, you will need both the components and tools.
Parts List:
1x PIC 18f4680 microcontroller
1 x 40 pin IC socket (optional - to house the microcontroller)
8 x Common cathode RGB LED's
24 x 100 ohm resistors (any wattage)
1 x 0.1 uF capacitor (optional)
2 x 100 uF capacitors
1 x 7805 (5 Volt Regulator)
2 x 10k ohm resistors
1 x hall effect sensor / hall effect switch
1 x 5 pin header (to plug in the pickit2 programmer)
1 x small rare earth magnet (to be used with the sensor)
1 x screw in type mains wiring terminator (See last photo - you get these from a hardware store)
1 x 12v motor
1 x motor (any motor that you can destroy for parts - I.E. the graphite brushes)
1 x 12v powersupply (for the motor)
1 x 7.5 volt power supply (for the POV display - can be upto about 18v)
1 x (5.5cm x 5.5cm blank pcb - aka blank copper clad) - this will be used to transfer power to the display
Holt Melt Glue Sticks
Solder
Veroboard / experimenters board
Thin enamel wire (see pic)
Standard single core wire (Like they use in network cable)
Tools:
- Soldering Iron
- Screw Driver
- hot melt glue gun
- Stanley knife
- side cutters
- pliers
- pickit2 programmer
- desoldering tool (solder sucker or solder braid - just in case!)
- computer running windows
- swordfish basic compiler (this is a free download - it compiles the code for the microcontroller)
- POV Image Converter (Software that I have made, download link is included in the instructable)
Now that you have all of that, let's get into the construction.
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I have built the model but facing some problems,
1. whatever the image i give it is displaying as mirror images !
2.text scrolling is from left to right.
3.Scrolling of text is very slow , even when i set animation speed to 1
Also which motor u have used ??? what is its rpm ???
Please help !!!
Is the microcontroller PIC18F4680-E/P, PIC18F4680-H/P or PIC18F4680-I/P
Can you please post a link where I can buy the chip and programmer?
I want to buy the right tools :) Thank you very much.
http://www.microchipdirect.com/productdetails.aspx?mid=10&catalog=buymicrochip&category=PIC18F4680
You just need to make sure you get a PDIP version (which is the big one I have used)
You can get the pickit 2 programmer here: This programmer does pretty much any pic microcontroller.
http://www.microchipdirect.com/ProductSearch.aspx?keywords=PG164120
"The 'One Chip Spinning RGB POV Display' with conversion software." given in your site
m trying this project so pls do help
Sorry to bother, just wanted to ask you a few questions about the “scroll-left” code:
1. As I am using a 18F4620 instead of 18F4680, I suppose that I should write “Config OSC = INTIO67” instead of “Config OSC = IRCIO67”, am I right ?
2. The variable “StartColumnCounter” is declared automatically in the auto-generated code, but it’s not actually used afterwards within in the code… something is missing ? Or should I delete it from the variable declaration ?
3. In the program the line “TRISA = $00000000” is generated… is that correct or should I write “TRISA = %00000000” instead ?
4. Also In the program the line “TRISE = %00000100” is generated… is that correct or should I write “TRISE = %00000000” instead ?
Thanks in advance for your time and patience !
Damian.-
I must admit, the code was a little bit rushed to get it completed on time so I am not surprised that there are a few mistakes. Startcolumncounter is not actually needed = )
you are right, it should be %00000000 or simply 0 would do just fine
I can't remember about TRISE - is anything connected to PORTE pin 2 as an input? if not then it doesn't matter what you set it to.
hope the project works out for you!
It finally worked, I just needed to adjust TRISE back to "%00000100".
I used a hall switch UGN3132 and the 18F4620. Also cleaned up the code a little bit. Great job and a nice learning !
Cheers,
hope that helps.
I used two different sources: 12 v transformer for the motor and 2 x 3 volts batteries (CR2032) for the PCB. Also included in the PCB pattern as much wiring as I could in order to simplify the soldering afterwards.
I haven't fixed it to a wooden base, so I attached the magnet straigth to the motor case, looking carefully it stays below the hall-switch path.
Cheers !
hello I'm french artist www.davidburlet.com and i really want to do a new act with poi juggling !
i think you can help me to tell me how i can do !
that juggling poi and with the spinning of the led stick rgb 32 i want to see pictures or logo with color
can you help me please to do or explain how i can do
or where i can find
that what i want to do : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g5gOb-fyDOo
and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWeUQowxVlM
cordialy David
You can have a look on the interent in different electronics forums to see if someone can make it for you.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-pcs-PLCC-6-5050-SMT-SMD-3-CHIPS-RGB-1500mcd-LED-Llight-Lamp-Red-Blue-Green-/140661765959?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20c0183747#ht_3768wt_1028
What are the pins on IC to program? What pins link I on the PICKIT?
Hugs
http://www.ianstedman.co.uk/Projects/TK3_PICKit2_adaptor/tk3_pickit2_adaptor.html
I bought the pickit2 and i was seeing that i wouldn't make this project..
and... your projects are really good. ;)
Is yours setup to send a logic 1 when it gets to the sensor or a 0?
I was just checking the code of the "One-Chip POV Display", and I came upon the piece of code where you define DelayOn and DelayOff., and it just struck me that maybe I need to give a delay when the LEDs are off as well. I only used a delay when the LEDs are ON. You think that's the fault?
Could you see if you can login and repost your questions there? That way when I post an answer, everyone on the forum will be able to benefit.
cheers,
-brad
I managed to solve that problem, its just that I forgot to add a delay after enabling the outputs of the latches, so the LEDs were not given enough time to stay on. they glow fine after putting some delay.
However, now I have another problem. The data that i stored in the EEPROM gets displayed alright but after that is displayed some garbage data also gets displayed.
Do you know the reason for that by any chance??? :(
If it displaying garbage then it is most probably due to your code accessing a certain area in the rom where you don't actually have any specific data.
Try and program some more data into your eeprom and see if it shows up. Or you could also shorten the routine because it may be too long - accessing an area of rom outside of where you want it to be.
What was your username on the forum. I will chase it up for you.
this time I'm sorry for the late reply. :) My username is "robertrndya" and "rapidrobie", I tried registering twice in case there was some problem the 1st time.
Back to the main topic, I tried using the RESET pin on the ATmega16L. So the processor resets after displaying the frame (I'm just displaying 1 frame as of now which reads "ROBERT").
So now I get the proper data at the output of every latch and so i get the appropriate colors on the LEDs (I tested this by putting a very high delay so i could see the colors of every column step by step WITHOUT ROTATING THE LED BOARD).
Today I tested it by mounting it on the ceiling fan. I mounted the breadboard up there as well in spite of knowing that the wires will come out, and rightly so they did come out. But before that I got to see the output of the spinning LEDs, which didn't please me. I couldn't see the letters at all. I could see the colors that were supposed to be there but the letters were just not appearing. :(
Now i can't test it soon enough again because a few wires from the breadboard have come out and its pretty tiring to figure out where those wires need to be connected because its a WIRE JUNGLE on the breadboard. I wanted to prepare the circuit on the PCB for further testing but my friend says that there may be some hardware mistake that;s why I'm not getting the letters. But I feel I just need to play with the delay a little more or something like that but I feel there's nothing wrong with the circuit else i wouldn't be getting the right colors na? What's your opinion on this? Where do you think the problem lies? Is it OK for me to prepare the PCB version of the circuit?
I'm working on a 24x85 pov display, which is just a modification of your 8x85 pov project. I have replaced the PIC with the ATmega16L. I have built the circuit on the breadboard. The data is stored in the W27C512 EEPROM. I use PORT A&B to send the 16-bit address to the EEPROM. I have used 9 latches (3 for each colour). The problem that I face though is that when i power on the circuit the led's light up for just a moment and then they all light very dim with all the 3 colours lighting on all the led's. Could you please help me with this problem?? I dont think its got anything to do with the fact that I'm using the ATmega16L instead of the PIC. So I suppose u may be able to help me. PLEASE.....
i jst liked your conversation, but i am facing a problem that i jst introduced with micro controller and using atmega 16, and i want to make a pov dislay project,but i dont have any idea how to start it,can you help me out plz..
thnx,
regards!
taimur azhar
There are others that have made similar projects out of atmel avr's though = )