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Sorry! My website that all of the links in this write up point to is down. I will have a new and improved one up soon!
I have developed a new method of applying rustoleum as an automotive paint that is, in my opinion, vastly superior to applying it by roller. A method I have come to term The Poor Mans Paint Job. This method of paint at home application relies very much so on the methods seen in other online auto paint how-to's, but uses a different paint application technique in order to lessen the amount of sanding involved. This method uses a high density foam brush as opposed to those other methods, resulting in a lot less sanding to finish the job.
I have seen plenty of people paint their car at home with a foam roller brush, with good results. BUT, it takes a lot of sanding work to get it right. I have also seen people use a sprayer with Rustoleum providing excellent results as well, but then you get into dealing with the overspray, needing a sprayer and somewhere to do it.
If the Poor Mans Paint Job is performed correctly, it will help to lessen the amount of sanding involved with an at home auto paint job like this. Oh, there will be some sanding involved, but we will try to keep it to a minimum. Of course, if you are not happy with the finish without a final sand and polish, just prepare for that scenario ahead of time. Make sure to lay down enough coats throughout the procedure to be able to sand at the end if you like. However, I am a lazy SOB and would like to not have to sand too much.
You too? Here's how!
DISCLAIMER: I am in no way responsible for the results of this project when tried at home by you. This is what I did, and this is how it came out. Am I happy, yes! However, I can in no way provide any assurance that your attempt at this will turn out as well or be as satisfying. Please also see step 5, "downsides and drawbacks" before making your decision to try this at home.
Obviously, it worked well enough for me. I cannot guarantee that it will work this well for you. Please, try this at your own risk. BUT, feel free to contact me with any questions or concerns.
I have developed a new method of applying rustoleum as an automotive paint that is, in my opinion, vastly superior to applying it by roller. A method I have come to term The Poor Mans Paint Job. This method of paint at home application relies very much so on the methods seen in other online auto paint how-to's, but uses a different paint application technique in order to lessen the amount of sanding involved. This method uses a high density foam brush as opposed to those other methods, resulting in a lot less sanding to finish the job.
I have seen plenty of people paint their car at home with a foam roller brush, with good results. BUT, it takes a lot of sanding work to get it right. I have also seen people use a sprayer with Rustoleum providing excellent results as well, but then you get into dealing with the overspray, needing a sprayer and somewhere to do it.
If the Poor Mans Paint Job is performed correctly, it will help to lessen the amount of sanding involved with an at home auto paint job like this. Oh, there will be some sanding involved, but we will try to keep it to a minimum. Of course, if you are not happy with the finish without a final sand and polish, just prepare for that scenario ahead of time. Make sure to lay down enough coats throughout the procedure to be able to sand at the end if you like. However, I am a lazy SOB and would like to not have to sand too much.
You too? Here's how!
DISCLAIMER: I am in no way responsible for the results of this project when tried at home by you. This is what I did, and this is how it came out. Am I happy, yes! However, I can in no way provide any assurance that your attempt at this will turn out as well or be as satisfying. Please also see step 5, "downsides and drawbacks" before making your decision to try this at home.
Obviously, it worked well enough for me. I cannot guarantee that it will work this well for you. Please, try this at your own risk. BUT, feel free to contact me with any questions or concerns.
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Signing UpStep 1Supplies
First, you will need to purchase all of the materials needed to complete this job. Below is a list of everything I needed to get my car painted. You might need more, you might need less depending on the scope of your project. One of the best things about this is that it is very inexpensive. As you can see I spent very little on the project.
Item Quantity Total Cost
Rustoleum high gloss white paint - 3 Quarts = $23.61
Odorless mineral spirits - 3 Quarts = $17.97
Primer spray paint - 1 Can = $4.99
4" High density foam brushes - 7 ea. = $5.67
2" High density foam brushes - 7 ea. = $3.95
Paint trays - 3 ea. = $3.21
Sandpaper - 2 packs = $9.50
Painter's tape - 1 Roll = $5.84
Total: $74.74
I would say that two or three quarts of paint is all that you will need. Two will do a small car, three your average size car. If you are going to tackle an SUV or large truck, you might need four or even more to finish the job. I laid down six coats on the car and seven on my body kit, bumpers and hood with three quarts. Make sure to use high density foam brushes as they will hold the paint very well and help to eliminate residual brush strokes. As with any project, be sure to purchase everything you will need and have it handy once you begin.
Item Quantity Total Cost
Rustoleum high gloss white paint - 3 Quarts = $23.61
Odorless mineral spirits - 3 Quarts = $17.97
Primer spray paint - 1 Can = $4.99
4" High density foam brushes - 7 ea. = $5.67
2" High density foam brushes - 7 ea. = $3.95
Paint trays - 3 ea. = $3.21
Sandpaper - 2 packs = $9.50
Painter's tape - 1 Roll = $5.84
Total: $74.74
I would say that two or three quarts of paint is all that you will need. Two will do a small car, three your average size car. If you are going to tackle an SUV or large truck, you might need four or even more to finish the job. I laid down six coats on the car and seven on my body kit, bumpers and hood with three quarts. Make sure to use high density foam brushes as they will hold the paint very well and help to eliminate residual brush strokes. As with any project, be sure to purchase everything you will need and have it handy once you begin.
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although you do not indicate that in this particular method on this page that you you used a clear coat... do you have a cheap, effective, UV protection ideas of paint that i can get at a hardware store or something?
Also, with prepping the car, i have a few spots that definitely need some bondo topped with primer but there are spots where the paint has CLEARLY cracked pretty deep. how would you suggest buffing the cracks out so they dont show through? and do you only sand down to get the factory clear coat off or do you want to sand a little deeper but not to metal... Also, is there a method of sanding that doesnt require tons and tons of circular motions that quickly wear your hand out?
i also have a few more questions that i cant seem to find on google because i dont know what the parts are called, however, i will wait to ask before i over load you too much.
i have posted a few pix of my car now and the problems that i hope to fix . With bondo, should anything be applied to the cleaned up area prepped for bondo to help it adhere to the paint, body panels?
the pic of the thing that isnt actally my car is what i my goal is for a paint job. I also have a good feeling that with the metal specks, any minor flaws will blend it much easier and hide imperfections as oppose to one straight color.
Now i just have to wait until i have all the supplies and a few nice days since i dont even have access to a garage. but i can make some makeshift wind guards to keep dirt and bugs off... however, i think they wont be noticable. but my yard is surrounded around trees and this is a good time of the year to start seeing your car covered in pollen... so we'll see.
I figured I am painting a car with Rustoleum... How much work do I really need to put into this?
I've done much research on the questions i asked. However i have one more that i cant find anywhere on the internet and maybe you or someone else on here has an answer. Even though you didnt clear coat the car, if i were to clear coat with something like rustoleum auto body clear coat for extra protection for paint fading and scratches... would i want to cut it with mineral spirits as well for this application?
Thanks!
Need some advice and clarification
In view of difficulties in Australia of getting Rustolium and a restriction in colors
1 Could the same job be done with some other product an acrylic or an Enamel
2 There seems to some difference in opinion in prep. If existing paint is in fairly good condition would a light sand or cutting compound with electric lambswool cover suffice
Oh, and here's a tip. Do not paint your car garden furniture green. Everybody, and I mean everybody, recognises it, and everybody, absolutely everybody, even strangers walking past, comments "that looks like somebody painted it with garden furniture paint" and look smug just like they solved the Da Vinchi code.
Absolutely everybody.
Mike
Interesting to know if Galmet is the same
http://www.rustoleum.com.au/contact.asp
Thankyou I would like to look at your job. You say you have to get your "spray technique just so". The idea of my project is no spray, all with a 4" brush
Yeah, well, I have chosen this paint because it does a good job as protective paint - rust - and the car I am doing I want around in 20 years time. Its also a car that attracts a lot of attention and is endlessly being vandalised. So this way I can give it new shiney coat every three years or so and repairing replacing a panel is not such a big drama.
Remember you can buy a cheap compressor and spray gun these days for a handful of dollars - and even bad guns will do a better job than a brush. Even a hoover spray gun off a vacuum cleaner does a better job.
Oh! A spray booth? Go buy a 3 metre by 6 metre garden gazebo - and paint the car bit by bit. Use an old vacuum cleaner and a long hose to blow fresh air in your face while you work (still use face filter) - this also introduces clean filtered air into the work area.
I have a 1939 Buick sedan needs paint It is cream in original colour
I am wondering about paint descriptions or terminology. I am in Australia and have been advised to use an Acrylic paint
Would much appreciate any advice or comment
Cant contact them till after new year
I don't have the time to paint on one coat of black (the car is already black) and then wait a day for it to dry before applying the next coat. What happens if I put on 3 coats in one day, spaced about 4 or 6 hours apart?
The one skill I do bring to the job is I am a good sander. So I hope to get 3 coats on the car, rub it out, and then 3 more coats and sand it using 600 grit, and then the 3 different polishes I have (3 different grits) using the orbital buffer.
I'm hoping that by putting on a bunch of coats maybe a little too quickly, I can make up for it with good sanding/buffing/polishing.
The car is a "beater" (1997 2 door Civic EX with 180,000 miles) but I'd like to keep this car for 2 years. Also, if I do a decent job with the black, then I'd like to have some fun with it and put a stripe or two on it, as well as some flames coming off the front wheel wells.
Love the site. Thanks for your procedure.
BHD
I just bought my first car (I'm 17, got a '98 Mustang) and it could use a paint job.
I have been looking at methods of painting for some time and was going to just give in and buy an airbrush, until I saw this. It seems like exactly what I want!
I do have some questions, however, hopefully you (or someone here) can help:
Firstly, there is some minor body damage on the driver door, I'm going to fix it with bondo, but I was wondering if there was any special steps I needed to do for the bondo. Do I need to primer it like I would bare metal, or treat it like the rest of the car?
Second, I am planning on applying a custom vinyl graphic to the side of the car, it's self adhering and all that good stuff, but I was wondering if this paint would, maybe, not be able to hold the weight of the graphic. I know this is sort of a stupid question, but I just wanted to get your opinion about applying a graphic to this paint job.
Hope to have pics up as soon as I can complete this project! Thank you so much!
As for painting on bondo, I honestly have no idea.
We have a beater car that we want to improve the look.
1) Were you limited by the choice of colors from Rustoleum?
We were considering buying a professional series of Urethane BaseCoat/ClearCoat system, but was priced at between $240 (TCP Global) - $700 (PPG)
2) Do you need to topcoat with a clear coat? We live near the ocean and the salt air is causing the clear coat to peel on our current car. I suppose if you paint with a one-stage system, you don't need clear coat at all, so nothing to peel off? But doesn't the clear coat make things last longer?
I'm a pro painter of 40+ years...it's likely that the peeling clear coat on your car was a waterborne formula. They've got these to where they last 5 years and that's it.
Rust-O-Leum is paint I love to hate, but after seeing this Instructable, I've got to give kudos to the author. Tip: stay away from dark colors. Also, there are many high-gloss enamel paints with high pigment content that would also work. Rust-O-Leum is known to be brittle once dried, and stone-chips easily!
2. I am not a paint savvy person. All I know is that I have had Rustoleum on my car now for 2 Colorado winters... no issues. I do not have any sort of clear coat on my car. It is simply Rustoleum.
I bought a gallon and the matched the color for my when I removed the gas door from my car (cleaned it, polished it) All they did was scan it and they add the pigment. For my car is was 4 units of chroma yellow, 1 part blue and 1 part red. My car is an off white cream color and it matched fairly well.
I would love to see your car to see how that cream looks. could you post some photos or email them to me??
Does anyone have any opinions on having two tone" Is it a bit over the top in a sedan? I saw a 37 Oldsmobile done this way but the red was too red in my opinion Any comments or opinions would be greatly appreciated mmdowd@gmail.com
Also has anybody got any ideas on color schemes, I need to get the plan right
I have an old car that needs a paint job and will try again and steal a page from your book. btw rustoleum looks good and holds up for a long time.
Thanks
Is it possible to paint the bumpers with this method too? My bumpers are plastic soft bumpers but they need new paint as well. Can I use the same method as stated in your writeup? Sand the paint off, then paint as normal?
The 1st vehicle I did I painted white.... took me 3 days.
This one took a day and a half, and Im way more impressed, because white doesnt show much as far as dents, ect.
Roller, brush, sprayer.... It all yeilds the same results.... It all comes down to your prep work.
Awesome "able" for the masses who want to try it on the cheap!! Good job