The Word Clock - Arduino version

The Word Clock - Arduino version
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Major updates - A much better enclosure for this clock has been designed - check out

http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Wordclock-Grew-Up/

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Last month I wanted to build a special gift for my beautiful wife, Megan.  She has a teaching background in English, so what better present to make for her than a clock that uses language to tell the time for her desk at work. 


THE BACKGROUND

The original project that I created used a Microchip PIC microcontroller (16F877), because that's what I had in the garage.  Since I published it (http://www.instructables.com/id/A-Word-Clock/), quite a few people, including my next door neighbor (Thanks Mikal) have asked me why I didn't use an Arduino.  Having never used one, my automatic reaction to Mikal was 'Whats a one of those??"  So, I did some research and found out what an Arduino was.  Wow - they are so cool - so simple to develop for, and the barrier to entry is so low!.  I ordered one from eBay, and re-designed the clock to use the Arduino Duemilanove as the controller.

I have to admit right from the start that the Arduino is a beautifully engineered piece of work - While I am used to the PICs, because I have been playing with them for years, I do admit that there is a certain level of 'unreachability' for the beginner because of the requirement that specialised programmers be purchased or built.  The Arduino is equally powerful, comes on it's own little self contained board, and best of all is self programmable using a USB cable.

POWER

I have also listened to people who have constructed the original clock, and done away with the need to run off AC power. This clock simply uses a DC supply of 12 Volts, so you can run it off a wall wart, or off a set of batteries.  If you are using batteries, may I suggest 'D' cells, as they run forever, or a couple of 6V 'Lantern' batteries. 


REUSE YOUR ARDUINO FOR ANOTHER PROJECT

Finally, I have designed the controller board so that you can construct the project with your Arduino Duemilanove board just by plugging it in.  But, if you want to recover your Arduino for something else, you can install the optional support components along with an appropriately programmed ATMega168 and a handful of support components and your project will still operate.  People on eBay will sell you a ATMega168 with a boot loader that you can simply pop back into your Arduino board.

So, here it is - The word clock - constructed using an Arduino!

I am now able to sell all sorts of components, ranging from complete clocks, through to kits, through to individual modules and components.  Please visit my web site www.dougswordclock.com for further information.


 
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Step 1The new hardware - Controller board schematic

The new hardware - Controller board schematic

BETTER DRIVERS

My original clock used discrete transistors to drive the array of LEDs.  I have realised that while that approach works fine for a project that I have built for myself, it makes it more complex for others to build, so this new clock uses ULN2003A Driver ICs.  The ULN2003A contains a set of darlington transistors in a convenient DIP package, so there is MUCH less soldering to do. 

A NEW PCB

I have also re-designed the PCB to make construction much simpler - The Arduino controller simply plugs into the new PCB.  If you want, once you have constructed the clock, you can recover your Arduino board by purchasing an ATMega168 with a boot loader, and populate the PCB with just the new Microcontroller and a crystal.

IS THIS JUST A NEW SHIELD?

In the spirit of Arduino development, it would be fair to say that the controller board was a 24 output LED (or relay) driver shield.  It is just as happy to turn on a big set of 24, 12 volt relay coils as it is turning on a bank of LEDs.

Below you will find the new schematic diagram for the controller board as a PDF file. 

Note that you should look at step 4 to understand what resistors to use.  Don't simply use 360R and 36R with supply voltages above 10v.  You will need to use 680R and 270R instead.

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188 comments
1-40 of 188next »
Jan 12, 2012. 2:18 PMshaunc77 says:
Solved it. If anyone else runs across this kind of problem. The new Arduino IDE 1.0 doesn't recognise the .h file extension! I down loaded the 0023 version of the IDE and it compiled and uploaded perfectly!
Oct 1, 2010. 3:36 AMla-jetee says:
Terrific design and lots of swift help from Doug. Thanks! I'm using blue flat-topped LEDS in my clock and have found that the differential light output from the diodes is critically dependent on the input voltage. The design document suggests a 9 volt input, but that has given me problems; some diodes light up and others don't. I have a laboratory power supply and in the five pictures below show the display with an 8 (first image), 9, 10, 11, and 12 volt (last image) supply. Somewhere just above 10 seems fine. Has anyone else come across this?
8_volts.jpg9_volts.jpg10_volts.jpg11_volts.jpg12_volts.jpg
Jan 10, 2012. 2:48 PMLaRolle says:
(removed by author or community request)
Oct 8, 2010. 8:04 PMgirino2n says:
Hi, cold you send me the LED layout?! Thanks ( fwpedrosa at gmail.com)
Feb 8, 2011. 6:37 AMbrad1213 says:
Hi

Could you post a clearer pdf of the V2 schematic. The schematic included in the assembly manual is too fuzzy to be able to read it.

Thanks
Mar 14, 2011. 3:58 PMscat says:
I dont see the RTC chip.
Jan 10, 2012. 2:49 PMLaRolle says:
(removed by author or community request)
Jan 7, 2012. 1:27 AMmonty324 says:
did anyone else notice that it says arduino in the corner
Nov 11, 2011. 8:05 AMRVNInsurance says:
This is pure genius! I'd love to get one for my wife for Christmas. But is there an option for a battery-operated model?
Oct 29, 2011. 4:26 AMm4rl3y says:
Hi, compliment for the project is very very very geek . i would make a clock in italian language .
i would implement the dcf77 receiver module for automatic upgrade time but i have a problem to write the code, you help me ?

sorry for my english!
Sep 26, 2011. 12:55 PMCello62 says:
Hello
Based on this project, I ordered a professional double-sided board (111x60 mm)  that you can easily sold all the necessary for this project, including a standalone Arduino. On request I can send with a small fee the gerber files. For further questions write me.
Thanks
board.jpg
Sep 22, 2011. 1:33 AMbaicker says:
good job
i like it, do you have the plan to compose the reader to this board ?
Sep 26, 2011. 8:34 AMbaicker says:
sorry, i replied the wrong article before.
the article which i wanted to reply is your another article called "A Universal RFID Key".

i clicked many articles and opend many windows, and i replied the wrong one ^_^
Sep 25, 2011. 11:26 AMcvaast says:
Where did you buy your shift registers? I just can't find the right ones, the 4049 are almost everytime inverting buffers.
Jul 28, 2011. 2:28 PMptorelli says:
Is it really OK to dump this stuff down your drain during the rinse phase? You said it etches stainless, what will it do to pipes (or a septic system and leach field for that matter)!
Dec 11, 2010. 8:49 AMhsadan says:
hey there,

any advantage of using separate shift register and driver chips?

why not just use something like the Philips 4794 which has a built-in shift register?
Jan 28, 2011. 8:49 AMDillyDog says:
Hi
I'm currently building the Arduino version and wanted to know if it is possible to add 4 more LEDs for minutes 1 to 4. I see you've done this for the PIC version, but I'm afraid I know nothing about the Arduino yet.
Mar 2, 2011. 6:10 PMbmcnal says:
Hi there! I really like this clock and plan on starting my own soon. Riddle me this.

What is the purpose of the electrolytic capacitors (C4, C5, C6) on the main DC line before and after the voltage regulator? Is it to keep a constant +9, +5 DC voltage? Why not use resistors?

Thankx!
Jan 10, 2011. 6:27 PMChiefston says:
Does anyone have a place they have found 26 conductor ribbon cable with a 2.54mm spacing? It seems impossible to find online! Is it possible to combine multiple ribbon cables into a larger one (as in using two 13 conductor ribbon cables side by side in a 26 conductor IDC)? Also, could I buy a ribbon cable with more than 26 conductors and then remove the extra conductors with a hobby knife? Thanks in advance for any assistance
Jan 10, 2011. 8:27 PMChiefston says:
Thank you Doug! I have realized the error of my ways, and am now clear on how ribbon cable and IDCs connect. I was trying to use .050 ribbon cable with a .050 IDC, and I also bought .050 unshrouded header, which is WAYYYY too small for newbie soldering.
Your quick reply is much appreciated!
Jan 2, 2011. 5:46 PMSchmidty850 says:
Can you enlighten me on where you got your 360R resistor and 36R resistor?
Jan 2, 2011. 3:00 PMSchmidty850 says:
What does the common wire connect to?
Jan 2, 2011. 9:51 PMSchmidty850 says:
yes i understood that, but on the other end like near the buttons
Jan 3, 2011. 7:16 AMSchmidty850 says:
OOOOOOHHHHHHH ok, i didn't realize that part, thanks
1-40 of 188next »

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Author:drj113
I have a background in digital electronics, and am very interested in computers. I love things that blink, and am in awe of the physics associated with making blue LEDs.