A tiffin box is a small lunchbox used to carry a tiffin, or light meal. The lunchbox consists of a stack of steel or ceramic compartments for each food item. According to wikipedia, the term originated in colonial India, and today in Mumbai there exists a complex network tiffin-boxed lunch deliveries on a massive scale.
I really like the utility and look of these lunchboxes, so I wanted to try making my own. Tuna cans seemed like the perfect compartment -- the only problem was getting them to nest nicely. I was really impressed with how well the can-shaping jig worked. It pulled in the bottom of the can and made a uniform ring just above it. After that, the cans fit together really well, and all I had to do was add draw catches and sand everything...and eat the tuna.
I really like the utility and look of these lunchboxes, so I wanted to try making my own. Tuna cans seemed like the perfect compartment -- the only problem was getting them to nest nicely. I was really impressed with how well the can-shaping jig worked. It pulled in the bottom of the can and made a uniform ring just above it. After that, the cans fit together really well, and all I had to do was add draw catches and sand everything...and eat the tuna.
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1: Make the Can-Rolling Jig
The can rolling jig consists of two old door hinge pins and a hose clamp. The heads of the hinge pins nest with each other. By applying pressure with the clamp and rolling the can, we can raise a lip on the can's side. Check out the embedded video in the next step to see it in action.
Building the jig is very easy. In a piece of scrap 1x1 wood, drill two holes to accomodate the hinge pin shafts. Space these holes so the pins are roughly parallel when the heads are nested. Slip the hose clamp over the pins and stick them in their holes.
The top pin will stick out further than the bottom on account of the heads being nested. If everything works out, this should be enough so you can clamp the vise grips to the top pin and turn it through a complete revolution. You may want to trim a bit off the bottom shaft to give yourself more room to work.
Use a vise to clamp the wood and hold the whole thing steady. You're ready to roll.
Building the jig is very easy. In a piece of scrap 1x1 wood, drill two holes to accomodate the hinge pin shafts. Space these holes so the pins are roughly parallel when the heads are nested. Slip the hose clamp over the pins and stick them in their holes.
The top pin will stick out further than the bottom on account of the heads being nested. If everything works out, this should be enough so you can clamp the vise grips to the top pin and turn it through a complete revolution. You may want to trim a bit off the bottom shaft to give yourself more room to work.
Use a vise to clamp the wood and hold the whole thing steady. You're ready to roll.
Visit Our Store »
Go Pro Today »
I'd like to see this improved to have a liquid-tight compartment for soup or a beverage. Do you think a little food-grade silicone on the rolled bottom of one can, and a ring of the same inside the can it fits into would do the trick?
Use petroleum jelly on the bottom can's top rim inside an out. Apply an even thin coat of food grade RTV to the bottom mating can's under/outer mating surface. Let the can sit and dry/set up till a thick skin forms. Then mate the two together with a little pressure. Enough to move the RTV but not enough to get a metal to metal contact. Let set for 24 hours. Trim excess RTV wash and enjoy water tight seal.
This is a "Perfect" fit and you will have to put the cans back together in the order and alignment you made them.
Might be possible to rivet a ring into the bottom of the next tier. Then you wouldn't have to be too cautious about verify the seal each time. Or raise a ring on the next tier inside the circle of the seal. Or soldier a guide ring around the outside....
Great instructable!
Your 'ible was featured in Make magazine online today!
Here is the link to the article.
Regarding burning off the protective film in the bottom compartment. I'd be very careful about what sort of food you keep in there, anything slightly acidic/alkali is likely to attack the raw steel, I'd suggest a couple of coats of enamel.
Tip on storage: I hot glue a sample of what is in each of my coffee cans for bigger bolts and screws for quick and easy locating what I want at the moment.
I have one question, though. I'm wondering about the lead content in the solder and welding rod. Would it be safe to use in a food container?
I have some MIG wire that looks like that, it has a flux coating on the outside, that I wouldn't want near my food. I recommend actually getting brass rod.
A great 'ible and one of the best looking by far.
Well done Sir.
This confuses me to no end... ;)
You're really observant. I did grind the head on the upper hinge pin a bit to try to control the shape a bit. I didn't have much luck at this, and maintaining the rotational symmetry of the pin head was difficult. The original shape actually worked pretty well for me, as the cans "click" into place with each other.
Thanks,
Kalpa
I remember watching the History Channel show about food packaging and delivery where they showed how effectively these carriers were used in India. Workers \ business people pay a monthly fee and locals cook the food put it in the tiffins and riders come pick them up and deliver. One great thing is the reduction of trash, i.e. packaging, these just get washed and reused over and over.
I'm amazed by people who can see some hinges as tin rollers truly inspiring might try one. Got enough time with summer holidays.
thanx Big Al
I'm sure there are other ways to get the cans to latch together. Some of the other commenters have good ideas.