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This instructable shows you how to add a time lapse module to a Rollei Compactline 52 digital camera.
Time lapse means pictures are taken at a specific interval of time. The time interval is adjustable over a wide range and it has an additional sensor, that interrupts the time lapse execution during the night, significantly reducing a large amount of black pictures. ;-)
What do you need:
a digital camera: Rollei 52 (although I guess it will work with most Rollei digital cameras)
a microcontroller (I used an Attiny24, but any other might do the same job)
a few electronics parts like transistors, resistors and connectors.
and a soldering iron like this one from craftsman for instance.
Time lapse means pictures are taken at a specific interval of time. The time interval is adjustable over a wide range and it has an additional sensor, that interrupts the time lapse execution during the night, significantly reducing a large amount of black pictures. ;-)
What do you need:
a digital camera: Rollei 52 (although I guess it will work with most Rollei digital cameras)
a microcontroller (I used an Attiny24, but any other might do the same job)
a few electronics parts like transistors, resistors and connectors.
and a soldering iron like this one from craftsman for instance.
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Signing UpStep 1Interface the camera
The Rollei Compactline 52 was chosen, because it is a real simple camera at a very good price. I got mine for 40.- Euro. It has no moving lenses and switches on and off completely silent. The first saves energy and the second saves the camera from being detected!
Most big SLRs have an existing interface where you can plug in a control unit. Most small size digicams don't even have an external shutter release interface.
So we have to built this by ourself. But keep in mind that you loose the warranty if you open the camera.
But you can install the interface it in a way, that you can still use the camera normally.
Most big SLRs have an existing interface where you can plug in a control unit. Most small size digicams don't even have an external shutter release interface.
So we have to built this by ourself. But keep in mind that you loose the warranty if you open the camera.
But you can install the interface it in a way, that you can still use the camera normally.
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If you really want that 2km remote you'll have to dcouple the wires with something like a .01 mF disc cap. Otherwise you'll have 2km of antenna picking all the radio noise in the area and your camera wont know whtn you push the remote button
That cloud video is great. I've got a couple of extra yard sale cameras lying around. I think I might know the fate of at least one :-)
i didn't get how the camera works?
does it work like that:
1- power-on
2- take picture.
3- power-off
or is it on 24/7 that will kill the battery?
in my camera there are buttons (1-power, 2-shoot button)?
so can it work??
otherwise LOVE IT !!
i must do it ! always wished to make a movie like the one in step 14 .
especially in building building and bridges.
In a former version of the software I just wasted the long waiting time in some senseless loop. That sucked three AA-batteries empty in maximum 2 days. Now I set the uC to a sleep mode during the waiting time. This dramatically reduces the energy consumption. Last week I made a 2 min time lapse with three AA-batteries for five days!
You camera should work too. The shoot button might be tricky to solder, but unscrew it and see if it can be done. But I would really recommend adding an external power supply that can be changed without touching the camera, especially for long term deployments like bridges or buildings. And take care of the memory too!
Good luck!
You'll thank me when it happens!!! ;-)"
Funniest thing I have ever read on Instructables.