Turning an Instructables apron into an Indestructible apron: Water-proof, flame resistant and easy-clean. Could be it turns a knife too!

Ever wonder why some canvas, like the stuff that a Carhart jacket is made of, is so much tougher than, say, a drop cloth?  The secret is 'tincloth,' invented in some year by some guy --probably an American-- who needed something tougher than canvas or denim-- tough enough for fighting dragosaurs with a claw hammer on horseback across the Great Plains. Tincloth is that kind of tough stuff.

To demonstrate the wonder of tincloth I took a shower in my clothes and tried to set myself on fire.  Allow me to explain...

Step 1: A simple recipe

Tincloth is made by coating canvas in oils that dry and harden, namely beeswax and boiled linseed oil. To demonstrate this simple process I will be coating my Instructables apron. The reason I made gallons of the tincloth mixture is that I am also coating a 20'X24' canvas tent that I sewed for winter camping. I only used about a cup and a half for the apron.

Equal parts:
beeswax (I used toilet gasket rings for this. Done dirt cheap.)
boiled linseed oil

(Optionally you can add turpentine. I saw it referenced in a few places while I was doing my research. I opted against using it since it seemed to increase drying time.)

Melt and mix the beeswax and the linseed oil.  It doesn't have to reach a certain temp, just hot enough to ensure complete combination.

What do we need to dry? Does it have water? I supose that if it is only oil and wax we should wait just until it is at room temperature. Am I wrong?
<p>Linseed oil is a &quot;drying oil&quot; which means that it gets hard when exposed to air. Technically, it doesn't &quot;dry&quot;, it polymerizes. This takes some time. Boiled linseed oil has chemical additives which speed up the process.</p>
I didn't apply it warm. There is some off-gassing as the linseed oil evaporates. A strong smell but not bad. No water at all. It just dries and then it's done. Give it a couple of days. You'll see.
Just an FYI. Linseed oil actually oxidizes or catalyses, not sure which, as it is exposed to air. The drying period is when this happens. It does lose some volatiles (the smell), but mostly it is slowly changing to hard linseed oil. <br> <br>Tung oil actually does the same thing. I wonder if it could be used also. I have some around and it has a better smell in my opinion. <br> <br>Thanks for this instructable. It is one of the few where I said &quot;I need to make that&quot; instead of just trolling for ideas. This is really useful.
<p>I made this and tried it on my motorbike jacket and a handkerchief. A week later and it still stinks of linseed oil and the handkerchief is extremely flammable. What went wrong?</p>
<p>Most toilet rings these days are not beeswax. Just so you are aware. You can find real beeswax if you look around.</p>
<p>I don't get it. Linseed oil and beeswax are both flammable. How can this mixture be fireproof??</p>
<p>Perhaps you need to READ the intro - Water proof and fire RESISTANT.</p><p>.</p><p>Fire RESISTANCE, is a matter of relativity = temperature / time / material / material make up.</p><p>.</p><p>Having determined that 12 step fellowships tend to be more dysfunctional toxic cults, than useful stepping stones - I set fir to the cottin banners - the 12 steps and 12 traditions - and the very fine cotton fuzz on the surface, when lit, caused the banners to &quot;flash over&quot; - meaning the cotton sheets more or less burned completely all over, from the same moment, rather than across and up, from a bottom corner, in a slow progressive flame front.</p><p>.</p><p>So yes, waxing the cloth, means that the material is much harder to light / get burning, compared to unwaxed cloth - relative to sparks, naked flames.</p><p>.</p><p>The surface is sealed flat = no fuzz; a smallish, short duration ignition source, has to both get a depth /thickness, and size of an area of fabric, hot enough - and up to and above the temperature of ignition.</p><p>.</p><p> The wax / varnish (dried linseed oil) combination, would be quite good on garments subject to risk of accidental or periodic exposure of ignition sources. </p>
<p>I'm also sceptical about the claims of flame resistance given the flammable nature of the materials used. A proper test would take a sample of the treated cloth and see if fire takes hold or spreads from a proper ignition source. The test described sounds like heat below the flash point of any common oil.</p>
I would imagine it would burn like a candle, cloth being the wick and all. I dont see it spreding very rapidly.
It burnt like billyho when I tried it
<p>very nice </p>
<p>Holy Liev Schrieber! I can't believe no one has mentioned this yet, I had to look at your other profile pics to make sure Instructables didn't have a program to sponsor celebrities... Anyway nice instructable and I hope you don't actually turn out to be a villain at the end of the movie.</p>
<p>Should the toilet gaskets be new or recycled?. Just kidding! Great Instructable :-)</p>
<p>I am about to make Tin Cloth Dining flies for my Scout Troop, or at least lead the boys through the process. Question I have is drying time. It takes 2 days, can they be outside, subject to dew, while they are drying?</p>
<p>This method seems to work so well! I'm trying to find a way to waterproof a backpack I made, but I already purchased mineral spirits and clear 100% silicone caulking to create a mixture. It seems to work well but I'm nervous about the flammability and toxins. Anyone familiar with that mixture?</p>
Hi !! I tried but the thngs r not working...N dont knw wht should b the ratio of oil n wax ....can u pls help..
Hi! I can't seem to reply to your comment, but here's the reply:<br> <br> Here's a photo of a typical viking tent: <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DpdHJmOomB0/UAw_vNlhxkI/AAAAAAAACh4/SVZRGc53hrk/s1600/Viking+kollasj+2.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DpdHJmOomB0/UAw_vNlhxkI/AAAAAAAACh4/SVZRGc53hrk/s1600/Viking+kollasj+2.jpg </a><br> They were probably originally made of wool or linen (from the flax plant). Now they make them mostly in linen fabric, because that's cheaper. The frame of the tent is quite simple, but the top &quot;logs&quot; are often decorated by beautiful carvings, often with dragon/snake heads. We have a local viking organization, called Agder Vikinglag, and every year there is a viking market about 8 km from where we live. I've heard that there are quite many people with Norwegian ancestors in certain part of the USA. I guess it's because of the great emigration in the 1800. About 800 000 Norwegians went oversea to USA.
<p>Thrilled to see this example for using tin cloth - it's exactly what I am planning to do for our next tent (and the reason I'm here on the site, scoping!). </p>
<p>I'm glad it could be of use :) I hope the writer of the article is <br>serious when saying it is flame resistant. :P Imagine a big tent on <br>fire... Scary! Perhaps you should try the method on a little piece of <br>fabric before you use it on the whole tent - just to be sure. Good luck, <br> suzobr :)</p>
Thank you thank you. Holy Valhalla! Must....make! Can you imagine samkvem in a tent like that with furs and leather and lamplight? Zow!
And with some mead in your drinking horn while playing Hnefatafl... ;) <br>Sounds fantastic, if you ask me :)
<p>i have a question: i need to make a &quot;tent&quot; that goes over my outdoor burners. the purpose of this is to &quot;steam set&quot; dye into fabric... it needs to be hot (near 200 f) in there for several minutes (like 10 - 20 should do)... it seems to me the beeswax would melt out of the tin cloth in the process... i'm thinking this because i often steam fabric that i've done batik (which uses beeswax as a dye resist) and i've used steam to melt the beeswax out of the fabric... do you have any thoughts? would you think the apron would hold up to being draped over a boiling pot for 10 to 20 mins?</p>
<p>This all started with a late-night lurk over two years ago. I was interested in the recipe and bookmarked it, thinking it might come in handy. Oh boy, it sure did!<br><br>fast forward to a few months back, I was walking home from the local Tim Hortons and got caught in a downpour... Oh, Boy, my Favorite jacket was far from waterproof. by the time I got home, I was soaked, shivering, and I could wring my coat like a towel. What a shame! I went straight to the computer and pulled up this page.<br><br>for my own recipe, I used a pound of beeswax and two quarts of Linseed oil. This, because what I got from the many comments was that the mix didn't matter much, and these were the quantities I bought. it worked great. I got about a gallon out of it While still warm I apply it with a paintbrush. a few weeks later, when I got to work on a Backpack (most of us seem to be doing Coats, then backbacks!), it had the consistancy of Margarine left on the counter. I applied it with an old rag, which had to be thrown out afterwards (tin-clothed rags don't soak up shop spills very well).<br><br>The coat is nothing short of amazing. a single, thick layer has kept me bone dry in torrential downpours when working on projects, or just being out and about (except that one, quarter-sized spot on my back... I must have skimped on that spot). I took it Kayaking on a windy day a while ago and I could stick my elbow in without feeling any water. that's just how good this stuff is.<br><br>the Pack has been hanging a bit over a week now. I just can't seem to get the excess off, which was a problem with the Coat as well. Any tips on that, guys?<br><br>if anyone's curious or has questions feel free to respond to this post and i'll share what knowledge I have as best I can. Great, Great, Great stuff, Tincloth.<br><br>PS : my coat is just this run-of-the-mill dark grey coat, which is quite boring. Enjoy this panorama I took while I was out with it instead!</p>
Yes! This is the best comment ever!<br>It sounds like you are really living life, Foehammer. I'm so glad to be a little part of that.<br>Thank you,<br>DDC
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/archive/index.php/t-35625.html<br>This is close to what i was going to start with then i decided the wax would be fine alone. I was working in louisiana when i decided this. When i got back to nebraska winter i realized i may have been mistaken.
<p>After all, what's the risk of self-igniting while drying?</p><p>I'd like to do a &quot;hay pillowbag&quot;, thought this could be useful to keep it clean even in the stall floor... But room temperature here can reach 40C (more than 100F).</p><p>(besides, I hope the smell will be accepted, and I don't think it will intoxicate the hay. Will it?)</p><p>Anyway, my main concern is it may ignite while it dries. Later I see if it serves the haybag.</p>
Linseed oil on a layer of cloth wont ignite. It is when crumpled up as in a trash bin that heat can build up. If you lay it out to dry it will be fine. After the vapors are off the oil the chance of self ignition is minimal.
<p>Oh, and thank you!</p><p>I would also love to try a medieval-style waterproof raincloak, if the stiffness alows for it :D</p>
<p>Awesome instructable! Is the equal parts linseed oil and beeswax by volume, by weight, or not that critical?</p>
Thank you for the praise. I would use by weight. But it probably doesn't matter. More bees wax will make it softer, more oil will make it tougher. I think. Take that with a grain of salt. This process used to be common but it has nearly perished from the earth. We need to keep it alive, right?
You can also add some pinetar. It prevents decay of the fabric a little more. Also i must disagree about the beeswax being the soft part. I refinished my filson tincloth packer coat with pure beeswax and it is harder. Almost like plate in the cold. You can see exactly where my elbows bend as the wax is somewhat lighter in color there. Of course the warmer it is the softer. I went with pure wax to avoid the linsed oil scent.
Hell yeah we do. <br><br>Going to try it on some cotton shopping bags this weekend. I'll do it by weight and we'll see what happens.
<p>I'm so excited, I need to make a waterproof travel bag and I think this is how I'm going to do it. I was wondering, can you sew through the tin cloth? Or should I make the bag first and then apply the oils?</p><p>Lisette</p><p>What Would Nancy Drew Wear? wwndw.blogspot.com</p>
That sounds like a good project. I read your last two blog posts, Lisette, and I'm sure you should try tin cloth. The answer to your question lies with what kind of sewing machine you have. But my gut says that you should sew it first, then coat it. That way you will seal the seams and really make it waterproof. I'm no expert, really, just some guy with ambitions to relearn old ways.<br>The tin cloth will be discolored- be advised. But if you want a world class, life long travel pack that is meant to take damage then proceed. AND SEND ME A PICTURE! Thank you. I'm working on a bag too. I'll show you mine.<br>Yours,<br>DDC
<p>Hi Donedirtcheap. Im digging this project. Im planning on trying with a tarp. I do have a question for you though. Did you notice cracking or flaking of the tincloth coating? Being as its part wax. My reason for asking was storing my tarp folded. And have you had to recoat your apron since you first tested it?<br><br>Thanks for your time,</p><p>Dave</p>
No risk of cracking our anything like that because there isn't really a surface of linoleum but rather a permeation off the fabric. Like aggregate and steel keep cement from cracking, the fabric keeps the linoleum flexible. The proof of this is the massive canvas tent that I seed from long drop cloths. This tent has been tightly folded since I made this i'ble and then rolled and stuffed into a five gallon bucket. The only time I use it is on an annual ice fishing trip on Lake Nipisiquit (look it up!) where it goes through 80 degree extremes with a woodstove and serious wind and ice for a few days, then folded and rolled back up frozen and covered in ice and jammed back in the bucket for another year. I've never even aired it out. One time the stove pipe fell apart while we were in our sacks and blasted directly against the tincloth with wood fire for an unknown period (until we choked on smoke) and all that happened was it got a little brown with soot. No fire, no scorching no problem. Try it on a tarp. That is the perfect application. You will not be disappointed.
<p>i will try and show </p>
<p>I am having trouble identifying which gasket rings can be used. Can you offer some suggestions?</p>
<p>This is the kind I used, sort of. I actually bought the Ace Hardware version. Just bees wax in a ring shape, soft and sticky and $1.99. The apron and the tent I coated still look like brand new! </p><p><a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-Toilet-Bowl-Wax-Ring-31190/100000069" rel="nofollow">http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-Toilet-Bowl-W...</a></p><p>What are you making?</p>
<p>I just refinished my craft table and would like to make a tincloth tablecloth for some of my messier projects. I am going to try it with an 8oz. Canvas Drop Cloth (<a href="http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-6-ft-x-9-ft-8-oz-Canvas-Drop-Cloth-2-Pack-692pk/203747165" rel="nofollow">http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-6-ft-x-9-ft-8...</a>). I will let you know how it works out. Thank you!</p>
<p>I made up a batch using your instructable earlier today. I coated a few yards of heavy cotton cloth with it. I had trouble with the mixture in that some parts of the cloth ended up like in your photos and other parts ended up with large gobs of wax all over. it was easy to scrape off but the extra step was a bit of a drag. any suggestions? I would post pics to the comment but i dont have a camera, sorry.</p>
<p>fixed the problem through playing with the temperature, i got it near to boiling. i also used slightly more oil than wax. made for a nice even coat without clumping</p>
<p>This is good news. I'm so glad that it worked for you to modify the ratio. I had to heat mine pretty hot too. It could be scary stuff if spilled. Can you imagine spilling that down from a high castle wall onto invading foes?! It would stick and slough their skin clean off. I hope everyone is careful with this recipe.</p>
<p>very useful.. i will make one for my mom </p>
Also makes stencils better!<br><br>(This must be the longest comment thread on any instructable!)<br><br>btw. Well done on the writing style and content.<br><br>- I've previously come across another obscure use for this concoction which is to waterproof graffiti stencils. in fact any kind of paint stencil made from thin card will be easier to cut and not absorb paint so readily.<br><br>If you draw or photocopy your design onto thick paper or card (the thick brown paper from the bottom of banana boxes works well and seems super absorbant (I kid you not!), then coat with linseed oil, beeswax mix and dry carefully outside. <br><br>The resulting coated card is easy to cut with a sharp blade on a cutting board and makes detailed stencils that are durable.<br><br>I should do a separate 'structable but maybe someone else can take that on?
Whoa, that reference is obscure. But I like it. It amazes me what can surface in a discussion with such creative people. I never thought of applying the tincloth mix to paper but there are a ton of uses that that opens up. Thank you for writing this. <br>What about a paper canoe made in a birch bark style? I have native friends who would wet themselves laughing at that but they'd be jealous on the inside.<br>Question: when applying it to paper does it make the stencil curl at all? I think you will have to write that i'ble and show us how it is done...<br>DC
Whow there! Let's not get carried away here. Paper Canoes!? <br><br>I said it repeals water and water based paint, I don't think it makes it that much stronger but I could be wrong. <br><br>In reply to your query about the flatternessing, it does seem to be a thing that happens. The paper does seem to actually get flatter and stiffer, both positive attributes in the world of being stencils.<br><br>As to making an instruct able? No. At least not for a good while and even then probably still no as I have a few projects on the go.<br><br>If someone want to take this ball and run with it feel free. <br><br>All the best.

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