My 2 year-old grandson broke the cheaply made bedrail he had, so I devised this one, made of nothing but 1" PVC and cloth mesh, which I purchased in the plumbing section at my favorite big box store!

DISCLAIMER: This instructable does not warrant/guarantee safety. Any use of this instructable is done at the constructor's risk, and by using these plans, the user of holds harmless the author of these plans.

NOTE: you may want to invest in PVC cutters, but they are not necessary. I will say that I did one bedrail with and one without the cutters, and they REALLY help! With the cutters, this project took about 15 minutes. Cutters cost about $12, the remainder of the project: $14. (March 2010)

Step 1: Materials

(2) 10' joints of 1" OD PVC (you end up with about 5' leftover, so if your supplier has shorter lengths, you may be able buy less
(4) 1" 90-degree elbows
(2) 1" "T" joints
(1) package drain mesh

NOTE: in the image, I have already cut the PVC joints into their component parts.

Step 2: Cut PVC

Since I was working with 2 10' joints, I cut the pieces in the following order, leaving a single large piece unused (or, ready to be used in the next bedrail):
1. Cut (2) 48" pieces, leaving a 24" piece, and completing the first 10' joint of PVC.
2. Cut (1) 24" piece
3. Cut (4) 7" joints (this results in a bottom rail that hugs the mattress, so child is less likely to go under the bottom rail).

Step 3: Assemble Frame

Assemble two identical configurations as shown in the image, comprised of an elbow, then 7" straight, then "T", then 7" straight, then elbow, then 24" straight. The image shows this exploded and connected, without the 24" pieces.
NOTE: I did not find it necessary (as yet) to glue these joints together. If you find it necessary, I recommend pre-assembling the frame for fit, then reassembling using PVC cement.

Step 4: Assemble Webbing

Connect the two jointed pieces in Step 3 , using the 48" rails. Then, stretch the webbing over the rectangular frame as shown. NOTE: if you decide to make a taller rail assembly, your webbing may not fit.
Once the webbing is over the entire length of the frame, you can cut away excess, but be careful not to pre-measure. I came up short on first attempt, because it is difficult to gauge how much of the unstretched length is consumed when you stretch it over the frame.
Once the webbing is stretched over the frame, use a utility knife, or scissors to cut an "X" into the open joints, to make a hole. When you reassemble the parts, the hole serves to keep the webbing in place.