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*UPDATE* I'm going to include some FAQ's to answer some of the questions I've received. { FAQ }
This tutorial will demonstrate how to reliably reproduce cast objects using a two part silicone mold. This technique, when skillfully applied, can have incredible resolution, effectively cast very complex shapes, and can yield parts that need little cleanup. This type of mold is most useful for parts that are fairly small, and therefore will not consume a massive amount of silicone to cast. To save material on large castings, techniques such as glove molding and matrix molding are often applied.
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Signing UpStep 1Select, clean, and add sprue
I chose a figurine from a comic shop as my demo to mold. This will be what is called the master. It has a fair amount of surface detail, and some small parts that, although tricky, are faithfully reproduced in the final casting.
Begin by inspecting, cleaning, and securing your model. I glued down the small parts that my figurine came with which originally snapped together. I took a cotton swab and got out all the grit and dust from every tiny crevice. Remember that everything you see on your part will be cast into the mold, even down to fingerprints. You will not be able to correct these mistakes once the part is cast, so take the time to do it right.
You will need to create a sprue or sprues on your part. These will become funnel shaped holes in the mold. You need them so you can get your casting material into the mold so don't forget to put them in. I usually use the tops to bottles or machine my own, but you can make most any tube or funnel shaped object work. If you'd like, you can even make your sprue out of clay. I usually smooth the seam in between the sprue and the master as to not catch bubbles on the very bottom of the part. Try to think ahead when you're molding a part, if something looks like it will trap bubbles, try to orient things to avoid it. Your goal is to create a mold that will produce the best quality parts with the least amount of work and fiddling.
Begin by inspecting, cleaning, and securing your model. I glued down the small parts that my figurine came with which originally snapped together. I took a cotton swab and got out all the grit and dust from every tiny crevice. Remember that everything you see on your part will be cast into the mold, even down to fingerprints. You will not be able to correct these mistakes once the part is cast, so take the time to do it right.
You will need to create a sprue or sprues on your part. These will become funnel shaped holes in the mold. You need them so you can get your casting material into the mold so don't forget to put them in. I usually use the tops to bottles or machine my own, but you can make most any tube or funnel shaped object work. If you'd like, you can even make your sprue out of clay. I usually smooth the seam in between the sprue and the master as to not catch bubbles on the very bottom of the part. Try to think ahead when you're molding a part, if something looks like it will trap bubbles, try to orient things to avoid it. Your goal is to create a mold that will produce the best quality parts with the least amount of work and fiddling.
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Can I use canola spray on the silicone to release or vaseline, or do I have to buy a can of silicone release?
This would be a great product to sale on HSN or QVC. This product would repeat it's sales yearly. Indefinitely!
If interested, contact me (James) oakleyrest@yahoo.com
Hernando Delgado Hdelgado2@verizon.net
the kind of stuff you'd usually have to machine?