Two sided PCB using toner method

Two sided PCB using toner method
This describes an easy method to make professional looking two-sided printed circuit boards at home.
 
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This instructable assumes that you know how to generate a layout file using Eagle PCB or similar layout program. I use the toner transfer method of making PCB's (printed circuit boards) much like many others. The basic idea is to use a glossy paper, print the PCB design on the paper using a laser printer, and to use a hot iron to transfer the toner to the copper. I use the glossy paper that they have behind the counter at Kinko's. Go to Kinko's and ask for some sheets of their glossy laser paper, which is really cheap (about 5 cents a sheet). Some people advocate using glossy inkjet photo paper, but I think this is a waste and the cheap glossy laser paper comes off easier.

Anyway, once you have your design and paper, you will need to print the design. The key here is to mirror the top layer so that it will come out correct once transferred to the copper board. It can also help to include alignment marks (the T shaped things in the pic) beyond the edge of your PCB to help you align the two layers. See below.

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105 comments
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Dec 13, 2011. 6:49 PMrayshobby says:
Consider using a laminator instead of a hot iron. I've used hot iron before and it's a pain. As soon as I tried laminator, I never want to use a hot iron again. For example, a GBC pouch laminator from amazon works just fine.
Aug 14, 2011. 6:51 PMqwertyboy says:
For cleaning, I just use some fine steel wool. It takes the toner off quickly, removes any tiny shorts, and shines everything up. After that, I usually wipe the board off with some acetone to get rid of any oils or other nasties and spray a light coat of clear onto the board. It keeps everything shiny and kind of acts as a flux.
Aug 15, 2011. 9:14 AMqwertyboy says:
Yes, clear coat spray paint. As far as I can tell, it doesn't interfere with soldering.
Jul 23, 2011. 7:49 PMclabrecque says:
I did this and it worked great..I get digikey catalogs and the paper out of them works well.glossy and dissolves in water.HA now i have a use for all them stacked up! and this instruction is great..i never thought of binding the tow sides together first then sliding my bored in between..brilliant...Thanks
Jun 18, 2011. 2:52 AMteche says:
its called pad2pad...... i think? Download it here http://www.pad2pad.com/download/index.htm
to do that click the download button :-)
Jun 16, 2011. 11:25 AMINELEC says:
HI FRIENDS? COULD ANY ONE OF YOU TELL ME ABOUT SOFTWARE THAT MAY HELP ME CONVERT SINGLE SIDED PCB INTO DOUBLE SIDED ONE? THANK SO MUCH
Mar 13, 2011. 12:48 PMlee321987 says:
I just did my first board. I had my design printed by Fedex Office (formally "Kinko's") on their laser printer.
Acetone (Klean-Strip brand from Home Depot) removed all the toner with VERY minimal effort.

I can't comment much on the Fedex Office paper/printer/toner because I have nothing to compare it to.
Jan 2, 2011. 10:07 AMAJC894 says:
How did you get the alignment marks in Eagle CAD
Nov 30, 2010. 11:21 AMdan mihalciuc says:
Hi
You know, I did a few of these PCB boards, one or two sided, and I was never happy when compared with the “professional” ones. The latest one I’ve tried to do (better) was using the “hot iron” technique. So, I had this glossy paper (I’ve even used those transparent plastic sheets made special for this purpose), I’ve printed my design on and, with a hot iron (as recommended) I pressed.
Well, if not hold enough, the ink will not melt and nothing will be achieved. If hold too long, then the ink melts but the strait, clean lines become smudged. And as each board is different in size and number of lines, it is almost impossible to extrapolate a “good” timing for all the other ones. And you cannot experiment with 20 for only one.
Any suggestion?
Thanks,
DAN
Sep 28, 2010. 12:58 PMsaone says:
can this work if i use an injekt printer...NOT A LASER ONE?thanks...
Sep 29, 2010. 5:01 AMsaone says:
ok!thank you! by the way....great instructable!
Nov 4, 2010. 6:25 PMhintss says:
you can have kinkos copy it onto the glossy paper, though.
Nov 5, 2010. 1:45 AMsaone says:
kinkos is a print shop or something?
Nov 5, 2010. 9:46 PMhintss says:
pretty much
Sep 19, 2010. 9:35 AMMrSillyGuns says:
ok im lost
Apr 17, 2010. 11:44 PMhondaman900 says:
I found the best way to clean off toner is to use non-acetone (acetate) nail polish remover. Wet a wad of paper towel the same size as your PCB with the acetate, and leave it to soak on the board for about 5 minutes. It should then wipe off easily with that piece of paper towel or another wetted with the acetate.

Bigger question for homemade double-sided boards is how to solder the pins under sockets and relays on the component side of the board without a bunch of extra vias to keep the component pad connections all to the bottom layer?
Aug 12, 2010. 6:46 AMcdvs says:
This is my solution: http://DiyPcbVias.com
Apr 19, 2010. 8:16 AMFoxtrot70 says:
Excellent Instructable!  One word of caution.  I live in a rural area and have a Septic System for my house.  To protect the system ( in particular the the bacteria in the septic tank, the bacteria break down the toilet paper and solid matter or the #2 stuff) pour your chemicals into separate containers and take them to a Hazardous Waste Facility for disposal.  There is nothing more unpleasant than spending thousands for a Septic System repair or the smell.  Just thought you should know. 
Mar 8, 2010. 8:28 AMshimniok says:
Thanks for the fantastic instructable!!  I guess ironing correctly is the real trick... I have the hardest time figuring out when to stop ironing. Too much and the traces and pads smudge.  I can't seem to get the resolution you are getting... :(  I can do through hole, but until I get the ironing figured out SMT is a lost cause. :(  Any tips welcome.  Meanwhile, being able to do 2-sided would be awesome.
Oct 29, 2008. 9:37 PMsarubin says:
Great idea and good instructions. I have one suggestion with respect to improving the "alignment marks." For circuits that include small components, like ICs, it is very important to have exact alignment of the two sides of the circuit. I aided this alignment by punching small holes (pin holes actually made with a pin or needle) in some of the pads on the laser print. I made these holes around both the periphery of the circuit and particularly included a small number of holes inside the pads of the ICs (required very precise alignment because the pins were only 2 mm apart in my circuit). Then, when the two facing laser prints are held up to a window (or, in my case, I have a backlit illuminated table) the light shining through the pin holes of one side of the circuit really helps precisely align the circuit printed on the facing page.
Jan 3, 2010. 1:57 PMjmsaltzman says:
Sound like a great way to line them up.  Old thread, I know, but I found it trying to figure out vias-- awesome advice re: fluxing the pads and lead!  Off to get flux in a few minutes and try...

I've had good 2-sided transfering results with this simple method:
  • I put both sides of the board (one flipped) into a single pattern image, with a space between them for the thickness of the board, printing from Photoshop with "crop marks" turned on.
  • I gently curl the paper over (with no creasing) to align the crop marks, then tape those edges together and press the paper together to get a soft fold.
  • Then I insert a blank pcb strip at the fold, pressing it in to get a square crease to hold the edge of the final pcb.
  • Folding it again at its end, perpendicular to the first fold, I end up with a nice corner pocket to drop my pcb blank into.
To laminate, I put the blank into the pocket and feed it through my laminator.  After one pass, I cut off the folded over side of the pocket (to keep the peper thickness even) and laminate another ten times or so.  I've been getting very nicely aligned layers.
Nov 30, 2009. 9:57 AMstuart57 says:
This has been an absolute education for me and i cannot wait to give this a bash. I do however need to know where I can purchase all of the needed equipment  mentioned, As I live in London,England the small village across the pond.  
            Hope you can help? Many thanks Stuart and Emma
Jun 8, 2008. 10:07 AMlsymms says:
Question and a tip. question: I've tried acetone and it's a bear. Mostly because it evaporates so fast. Is brake cleaner easier to work with? additional tip: use avery label backs. After removing the labels, print on the glossy side of the backing. Iron as per instructable, and leave it to cool until it gets to room temp. The backing should come off leaving perfect toner traces with no residue. I've just thrown out the labels or hand written on them before using the backs but I think you should be able to print on the lables and use backs. Buy the full sheet or half sheet labels as the smaller sized ones put perferation lines in the backing.
Sep 16, 2008. 4:47 PMlsymms says:
UPDATE 2: different toners react differently to acetone. My Samsung's toner comes off in one wipe with toner.
Aug 19, 2009. 9:25 AMJohnnyVegas says:
Just pour a cap full or two of acetone on the board and let it sit about 10-20 seconds first. Then just wipe. All toner will be removed. If some residue still remains, do it again.
Aug 19, 2009. 11:02 AMlsymms says:
Good suggestion! I'll try that next time I have problems.
Sep 16, 2008. 4:46 PMlsymms says:
UPDATE: Avery changed their backing on their labels from the last time I used them. Now they have angled slices along the backing to aid in automated label affixers, which means this won't work at all (there goes $12). I'll be trying the kinkos paper on very small traces and will report back.
Apr 3, 2009. 5:16 PMraykholo says:
so.. will it work with an inkjet printer though? nice idea and if it does i will definitely use it...
Jul 13, 2009. 10:39 PMGTechno13 says:
So does this laser photocopy need to be "fresh"? I don 't have a laser printer but getting a copy made somewhere will work at home later?
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