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Hi,
Now I'am 17 and here is my new 3D-Printer called Vulcanus V2. This printer based on corexy and has the option to use a dual bowden extruder. The buildvolume is 170*300*250mm. So it can print big parts like multicoper parts. It also has a 32-Bit electronic and diy heatbed so it is optimised for materials, which needs a heated bed. But my main goal was to build a professionell opensource 3D-Printer.

Step 1: 3D-CAD File

(If you can't see the interactive 3D model above, its probably because
you're not using a WebGL-enabled browser, or you're using the Instructables Mobile app)

Step 2: Mechanical Parts

Extrusions

I bought my aluminium extrusions from SMT-Montagetechnik, it is cheaper, when you buy 20x1m and cut them at home for your perfect lenght. Here are the sizes for the extrusions:

--------Quantity----------------Lenght--------
12x600mm
2x500mm
6x400mm
2x430mm
2x390mm
2x350mm
2x335mm
2x315mm
2x300mm
2x292mm
2x265mm
2x245mm


Nuts and Screws

The cheapest shop in germany, which I found out, to buy screws in VA!!! is Kleinteileversand, but this online shop has only screws greater than M5, so you have to buy the other screws/nuts from your local hardwarestore (in my case Hornbach)

----------Quantity---------

---------Part----------

----------Where to buy---------

200x
M5x10mm screws
Kleinteileversand
100x
M5 hex-nuts
Kleinteileversand
50x
M3x30mm screws
Localhardwarestore
8x
M4x18mm screws
Localhardwarestore
8x
M4x45mm screws
Localhardwarestore
50x
M4 hex-nuts
Localhardwarestore
200x
M4 Square nuts
Localhardwarestore
200x
M4x6mm screws
Localhardwarestore
16x
M3x10mm screws
Localhardwarestore
100x
M3 hex-nuts
Localhardwarestore
12x
M4 self locking nut
Localhardwarestore
4x
M4 Washer
Localhardwarestore
4x
M3x16mm Screw
Localhardwarestore






Linear Motion

For the Linear Motion, I use 12mm smooth rods for the X/Y-Movement and 16mm smooth rods for the Z-Axis, so I got a really rigid linear motion system.

----------Quantity---------

---------Part----------

----------Where to buy---------

2x440mmx16mm smooth rod
Ebay
2x400x12mm smooth rod
Ebay
2x530mmx12mm smooth rod
Ebay
2x2m GT2 + Pulley
Aliexpress
1x
5x8mm Coupler
Aliexpress
1x10pcs 624zz Bearing
Aliexpress
1x
10pcs F624zz Bearing
Aliexpress
1x
10pcs LM12UU
Aliexpress
1x
Leadscrew + Nut
Aliexpress
2x
LMK16LUU
Aliexpress



Step 3: Electric Parts

For the Vulcanus V2, I used a DIY 32-bit electronic, which works pretty well. I'am using Nema 17 Motors and an E3D V6 Hotend. Here are all the electronic parts which are needed for the Vulcanus V2:



----------Quantity---------

---------Description----------

----------Where to buy---------


2x
TMC2100 Motordriver
Watterott
1x
Arduino Due
Aliexpress
1x
Ramps 1.4
Aliexpress
2x
A4988 Motordriver
Aliexpress
1x
E3D V6 Hotend
E3D Online or the one from Aliexpress
3x
CNY17 Optocoupler
Aliexpress
4x
Nema 17 1.8° Steppermotor
Ebay
1x
Prototype PCB
Aliexpress
1x
2004 LCD
Aliexpress
1x
10k Potentiometer
3x
33k Resistor
3x
2,7k Resistor
3x
1k Resitor
3x
LED
24x
Diode
3x
Endstops
1x
Orange Pi

Aliexpress

1x
W-LAN stick
1x
ATX-PSU

Ebay

1x
Wires

Step 5: How to Connect the Extrusions

At first you have to cut a M5 tread in the extrusions, so you can use the M5x10mm screws to join the extrusions together. To make your own T-Slot nuts, you have to grid the "normal" M5 hexnuts

Step 6: Main Frame

For this step you need:

--------Quantity--------

--------Description--------


12x
600mm extrusions
2x
500mm extrusions
6x
400mm extrusions
2x
430mm extrusions
2x
390mm extrusions
2x
350mm extrusions
2x
335mm extrusions
2x
315mm extrusions
2x
265mm extrusions
2x
245mm extrusions
2x
"45° Corner" printed parts
2x
245mm extrusions
56x
M5x10mm Screw

#########################################################

I made a picture gallery, where you can see how to build up the main frame with out any problem. Because it is very hard to explain, where you have to drill the holes for the connection between the extrusions, you can download the Fusion 360 File, where you can see in detail where the parts have too be :-)

Step 7: Make the X Axis

For this step you need:


--------Quantity--------

--------Description--------


8x
LM12UU
2x
12x530mm smooth rod
2x
12x400mm smooth rod
4x
M4x30mm screw
4x
self locking M4 nut
4x
624 Bearing
4x
F624 Bearing
24x
M3x30mm Screw
4x
M4 Washer
2x
"X-end nut"-printed part
2x
"X-end screw" printed part
24x
M3 Hex Nut
4x
M4 Hex Nut

#########################################################

-At first you have to insert two M4x30mm Screws to the "X-end screw" printed part. After that put a washer on one screw. Than add one 624 and one F624 to that screw. For the other screw, you have to add first a self-locking nut and than the F624/624 Bearing. After that add the washer. You have to make this step two times.

- Finally, you take the 12x530mm smooth rod and connect them to the "X-end screw" printed part by using the "X-end nut" and 24x M3x30mm Screw + 24x Hex M3 Nut.

Step 8: Make the Y-Axis

For this step you need:

--------Quantity--------

--------Description--------


2x
"Motor" printed part
2x
"Idler" printed part
2x
12x400mm smooth rod
4x
M4x45mm screw
8x
M4 self locking nut
4x
624 Bearing
4x
F624 Bearing
2x
"Idler nut" printed part

#########################################################

-At first you have to join the "Motor" and the "Idler" to the 12x400mm smooth rods. Then you build in the Idlers like in the previous step. You build the Idlers as seen on the pictures (M4x45mm Screws, selfloking nut, F624 Bearing, 624 Bearing, selflocking nut, "Idler nut" printed part, M4 hex nut)

Step 9: Join the X/Y Axis to the Frame

For this step you need:

--------Quantity--------

--------Description--------


26x
M5x10mm Screw
26x
Modified M5 Hex Nut

#########################################################

This is one of the easiest steps :-)

You simply have to insert the X/Y Axis to the main frame, by using M5x10mm Screw and the modified hex nuts

Step 10: Installing the X/Y Motors

For this step you need:

--------Quantity--------

--------Description--------


2x
Nema 17 Motor
8x
M3x6mm Screw
2x
GT2 Pulley

#########################################################

You connect the Nema 17 Motors to the "Motor printed part by using 8x M3x6mm Screws. After that you can mount the pulley to the motor shaft

Step 11: Installing the X-Carriage/Belts

For this step you need:

--------Quantity--------

--------Description--------


1x
"X-Carriage screw" printed part
1x
"X-Carriage nut" printed part
6x
M3x30mm screws
4x
M3x10mm screws
2x
"Belt Tensioner"
10x
M3 Hex Nut
2x
2m GT2 belt

#########################################################

-At first you have to insert two M3 Hex Nuts for the "Belt-Tensioner" in the "X-Carriage nut/screw". After that you can attach the belts to the "X-Carriage nut/screw". Then you have to screw the "X-Carriage nut/screw" together, by using six M3x30mm screws + nuts. After taht you can attach the belt to the X/Y Axis. If you don't know how to connect the belts this could help : COREXY

Step 12: Make the Z Axis

For this step you need:

--------Quantity--------

--------Description--------


1x
"Z-Motor" printed part
4x
"Z-Axis Holder nut" printed part
4x
"Z-Axis Holder screw" printed part
2x
16x440mm smooth rods
16x
M3x30mm Screws
16x
M3 Hex Nut
1x
Nema 17 Motor

#########################################################

-At first you have to connect the Nema 17 Motor to the "Z-Motor" printed part by using four M3x10mm Screws. After that you take the 16x440mm smoot rods and join them to the "Z-Axis Holder nut/screw" printed part. You can connect the parts by using 16x M3x30mm Screws and 16x M3 Nut.

Step 13: Make the Z-Carriage

For this step you need:

--------Quantity--------

--------Description--------


2x
LMK16LUU
8x
M4x18mm Screws
8x
M4 Hex Nut
2x
"Z Axis LMK16LUU" printed parts
4x
M5x10mm Screws
4x
M5 modified hex nuts
2x
292mm Extrusions

#########################################################

-At first you have to put the LMK16LUU into the "Z Axis LMK16LUU" printed parts. Then you fix the LMK16LUU with eight M4x16mm srcrews. After that you insert the 292mm Extrusions to the Z Axis LMK16LUU" printed parts. You fix them with four M5x10mm screws.

Step 14: Add the Z-Nut

For this step you need:

--------Quantity--------

--------Description--------


1x
Leadscrew nut
4x
M3x16mm Screw
4x
M3 Hex Nut
1x
"Z Axis Nut" printed parts
4x
M5x10mm Screws
4x
M5 modified hex nuts
1x
Lead screw
1x
5x8mm Axis coupler

#########################################################

-At first you have to put the lead screw nut into the "Z Axis Nut" printed parts. Then you fix the lead screw nut with four M4x16mm srcrews. After that you insert the lead screw to the nut. After that you join the lead screw to the motor by using the 5x8mm axis coupler.

Step 15: Make the Aluminium Enclosure (Buildroom)

For this step you need all of the aluminium plates. For the dimensiions please look at my Fusion 360 File, where you can see the exact dimensions. You connect all the plates with M4x6mm screws to the aluminium extrusions.

Step 16: Install the Z-Table

At first you have to connect the 300mm extrusions with the aluminium plates by using M5x10mm Screws. After that you screw the table to the Z-Axis with eight M5x10mm screws.

Step 17: Build in the Extruder

I'am using a geared bowden extruder, because of two reasons. First: a geared extruder has so much more torge than a direct drive. Second: I want to reduce the weight of the X-Carriage, so I can print faster with less "ghost-lines".

I installed the extruder with an angle bracket and four screws.

You can download the Extruder from RichRap's Thingiverse Page

Step 18: Build in the Hotend

For this printer I'am using the Original E3D V6 All Metall Hotend because I want to print more ABS, but when you only want to print PLA, you can buy a Hotend from Aliexpress is better, because it has a PTFE Inliner, which is perfect for PLA prints. Because so many people ask me in the Vulcanus V1 for a Dual Extruder, I designed a dual bowden Hotend X-Carriage. So you have the option to use a dual extruder.

To mount the E3D V6 to the X-Carriage, you take the "Hotend clamp" printed part, connect it with your E3D V6 and screw it with three M3x30mm screws together. You can install the wires trough the "cable channel" next to the "bowden channel". You have a better view of the wire-channel, by looking at my Fusion File.

Step 19: Make the Heated Bed

I made a DIY Heated-bed, because the MK... heated beds are to weak. Often they have less than 100W Power and didn't reach 100°C. So I build my own out of an old transformator coil. Which can heat up to 100°C in less than 10 Minutes, which is really fast for me.

At frist you have to mesure your diameter of your wire in my case 0.7mm. After that, you should metioned about how much power your heated bed should generate. I made a heated bed with 240W, so I need 13m of the wire. Then, you made a bed of nails, for the wire. After that, you fix your wires with kapton tape. To fix the wires to the aluminium plate, you have glue a layer of kapton tape to the aluminium plate, then you can fix the the wires to the aluminium plate by using another layer of kapton. Don't forget to insert the termistor in your bed. Finaly, you have to connect the wires with thicker wires for the electronics. For this step I'am using a wire connector out of pertinax.

To connect the heated bed to the Z-Table, I use three M3x30mm screws with three screws. You connect them to the table by cutting a M3 thread inside the extrusions.

Step 20: Modify the Ramps Board for 32bit

For this step you need:

--------Quantity--------

--------Description--------


1x
Ramps 1.4
3x
CNY17 Optocoupler
3x
33k Resistor
3x
1k Resistor
3x
2,7k Resistor
3x
Red LED
2x
PCB
24
Diode

#########################################################

-At first you have to desolder the mosfets from your ramps 1.4 (in my case IRF3205 Mosfets). You build up your own mosfet PCB, because the mosfets needs at least a 5v Gate Voltage and the Arduino Due has a 3.3V Logic Voltage. So these Mosfet are not compatible. To solve this problem, I made a PCB with optocouplers. See pictures and PDF to see how I build it.

After that you have to remove the 5V Pin, CAN TX, CAN RX and the DAC1 Pin from the Ramps 1.4. Also you have to cut the 5V Line at the bottom left of the Ramps 1.4, because the DUE operates with 3,3V and 5V will damage the Arduino. See pictures where the pins are located.

Also I had problems with my TMC2100 motordrivers, because I have killed some of these by simply moving the axis. I think this happened because of induction current. To prevent this, you can simply solder 2 fast Diodes on every coil of the motor. See on the pictures/PDF how I installed the Diodes.

After these hacks, your Ramps 1.4 should work fine with the Arduino Due and the TMC2100

Step 21: Modify Your ATX-PSU

This is one of the easiest steps :-). You just have to connect the green wire with one of the black wires. You can do that with a brigde at your connector, or you can open your ATX solder the black and green wire together and desolder all wires you didn't need.

You only need the Black, Yellow and Red wires.

Yellow has a voltage of 12V which you use for the RAMPS 1.4 and my "Mosfet PCB"

RED has a voltage of 5V which you use for power the Orange PC.

Black is Ground

Step 22: Install the Electronics

I mounted the electronics on a sheet of wood at the left site of my printer, Under the sheet you can Install you Powersuppy.

Endstops:

X-Axis: You have to glue your Endstop inside the "X-Carriage-Top" printed part.

Y-Axis: You can use one zip tie, to connect the Endstop to the Y-Axis smooth rod.

Z-Axis: You can use the printed part "Z Endstop" to connect the Endstop to the Z-Axis smooth rod

Step 23: Install the LCD/Main Alumium Plate

At first you have to take a look at my Fusion 360 File for the dimensions of the aluminium plate. So you know the dimensions, where you have to cut the Alumnium. After that you add the LCD to the Alumnium plate, you make a "LCD-PCB" behind the LCD, because there you can adjust the contrast of the LCD. Also you have to intall the Encoder and the "Back-Button".

Once you have screw the Alumnium-Front plate to the Frame, you can remove the safety foil from the alumnium plates.

Hint: Test the LCD before you connect the front-plate with the frame !

Then you have to open Marlin4Due Firmware. And go under RAmps4Due pins.h . There you can see where you have to install the wires from the LCD to the hacked-Ramps 1.4.

"

.......

#ifdef ULTRA_LCD
#ifdef NEWPANEL

#ifdef PANEL_ONE

#define LCD_PINS_RS 32

#define LCD_PINS_ENABLE 47

#define LCD_PINS_D4 45

#define LCD_PINS_D5 43

#define LCD_PINS_D6 41

#define LCD_PINS_D7 39

#else

#define LCD_PINS_RS 32

#define LCD_PINS_ENABLE 47

#define LCD_PINS_D4 45

#define LCD_PINS_D5 43

#define LCD_PINS_D6 41

#define LCD_PINS_D7 39

#endif

........

"

You can also use your costom pins, by simply changing the pin number.

Step 24: Firmware

I'am using Marlin4Due from Wurstnase for my Printer, because it has a great support for hacked RAMPS 1.4 Electronics. You simply have to choose Ramps4Due at the configuration.h.

At fist you have to set the Baudrate to 115200, because I hade problems with 250000 with the OrangePi:

#define BAUDRATE 115200

Then you have to choose you Motherboard:

#ifndef MOTHERBOARD
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS4DUE

#endif

After that chose your Termistor, because I am using an E3D V6 Hotend, you can use Termistor Typ 5:

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0

#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0

#define TEMP_SENSOR_3 0

#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1

Then you have to enable CoreXY Movement

#define COREXY

and configurate the Endstops:

const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. const bool X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. const bool Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. const bool Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. const bool Z_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

//#define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS

//#define DISABLE_MIN_ENDSTOPS

#define DISABLE_X false
#define DISABLE_Y false #define DISABLE_Z false

After that you have to set your Limits/Homedirections:

#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1

#define Z_HOME_DIR -1

#define min_software_endstops true // If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than HOME_POS. #define max_software_endstops true // If true, axis won't move to coordinates greater than the defined lengths below.

// @section machine

// Travel limits after homing (units are in mm)

#define X_MIN_POS 0

#define Y_MIN_POS 0

#define Z_MIN_POS 0

#define X_MAX_POS 300

#define Y_MAX_POS 180

#define Z_MAX_POS 250

Now you are nearly finished with the configuration. At last you have to enable the Panel One:

// PanelOne from T3P3 (via RAMPS 1.4 AUX2/AUX3)
// http://reprap.org/wiki/PanelOne

#define PANEL_ONE

Now you are finish and you can upload the Firmware to your Arduino

Step 25: Setting Up the Repetier-Server on an OrangePi-PC

The Orange Pi is a mini Computer with a 1.6GHz-Quadcore Prozessor and 1GB RAM, which only cost 16€ in Total. Here I will show you, how to install Ubuntu and the Repetier-Server on an Orange Pi PC.

At first you have to download Loboris image for the Orange Pi PC called"OrangePI-PC_Ubuntu_Vivid_Mate.img.xz"

from GoogleDrive

After that you have to unzip the .xz File, for that step you can use for example 7Zip

After you have extracted the image, you can burn it to a SD-card, by using the Win32-Diskimager

Once you have burned the image to the SD-Card, insert it to the Orangepi and start it. Now Ubuntu should ask you for an Password which is "orangepi".

Then you have to open the Terminal and enter "sudo fs_resize" and then "sudo reboot".

Aftter the reboot, you have to oben the Terminal and enter "wget http://download.repetier.com/files/server/debian-

armhf/Repetier-Server-0.65.0-Linux.deb

Once the download is completed, you type in "sudo dpkg -i Repetier-Server-0.65.0-Linux.deb"

Now you server should allready run. To get access to the Server you should need to know the ip-address of your Orange-Pi. So you type into your terminal "sudo ifconfig" and you should see your ip-addresse unter eth0, if you are using a wire connection like me :-)

So you Type into your browser from your main computer "Your IP:3344". And you should see the RepetierServer webpage.

But you also want to shutdown you server, so you have to create a XML-File (extcommands.xml) in the database subdirection /var/lib/Repetier-Server/database .

Then you copy this Text from RepetierServer under Adavanced Setup , Into the extcommands.xml. Now you should be able to shutdown and reboot the server from the web-domain.

Step 26: Fotos/Video From Printing

Step 27: Finish

Be glad, you made your own Vulcanus V2 3D-Printer. :-)

<p>Just for Information.</p><p>Bei der Modifizierung des Ramps wurde ein kleiner aber wichtiger Punkt vergessen zu erw&auml;hnen. Die Thermistoren m&uuml;ssen noch verbunden werden. Dazu braucht es Wires von A9 auf A13, A10 auf A14 und A11 auf A15, siehe Bild.</p><p>Getestet mit Repetier Firmware. Die Pins f&uuml;r die Thermistoren (A9-A11) sind dort schon entsprechend vorgegeben.</p><p>Vulcaman, vielleicht kannst du das noch hinzuf&uuml;gen. ;)</p>
<p>Hi!</p><p>Danke f&uuml;r den Kommentar. Sagen Sie mir bitte, wie Sie den Bildschirm LAD2004 verbinden?</p><p>Hey. Thanks for the comment. Tell me, please, how you connect the screen LСD2004?</p>
<p>Sorry, habe den Kommentar erst jetzt gesehen.</p><p>Fuer das Display wird 5 Volt benoetigt. Das wird mit diesem Draht bereit gestellt. Ansonsten einfach auf die vorgesehenen Pins des RAMPS aufstecken. Eventuell muss man noch den Kontrast anpassen.</p>
<p>Hi, deje63. Thanks for the answer.</p>
<p>Where can i download the fusion360 or .step file of the entire printer?</p>
<p>Hello,i need some informations,is it possible to read my email in your inbox?</p><p>Thx a lot,best regards</p>
<p>Hi,</p><p>vielen Dank f&uuml;r die Anleitungen und die 3D-Dateien. Tolles Projekt. Aber leider finde ich keine Druck-Datei f&uuml;r die 45-Grad Parts. Weder in den Thinkiverse-Downloads noch hier auf der Seite. Habe ich etwas &uuml;bersehen?</p><p>Danke </p><p>Jakub</p>
<p>from tomorow I'm going to build this amazing project. now I'm searching to know does every things exist in my city or not. </p><p>the problem is I cant find TMC2100 Motordriver, please let me know is there any alternative for it or no?</p>
<p>for someone like me, I find Vulcaman answer about this question in his other thread: </p><p><a href="https://www.instructables.com/member/Vulcaman" rel="nofollow">Vulcaman</a>: Yes you can change the TMC2100 to A4988. No problem. You don't have to change any settings in the firmware, because the steps per mm are the same.</p>
<p>Hello, Thanks for sharing this amazing project!!! Thank you so much. </p><p>I have a question please let me know what is the height of printing are on this printer? I dont know which one is for Z axis: 170*300*250mm</p>
<p>X = 300mm ; Y=170mm ; Z=250mm</p>
<p>Hello, Thank you Dear Vulcaman, could I ask you to please upload your 3D file? after two days of trying, yet i can't open it in my browser!!! :-(</p>
<p>HI Mate,<br>Awesome project any chance, I can scale it to 400mm atleast in one direction ( X or Y)?</p>
Myself and a few others are going down this route with the original version. See https://cad.onshape.com/documents/14f3d01d62b5237f728896c5/w/40e0afc950b8ca0dfecf9ef8/e/92cbcd864aaa425fd7893967 and msg me if your interest in more details. <br><br>This design should scale fine since he used 12 and 16 MM rods.
<p>Hi Shai,<br><br>That's awesome, I would love to team up for this project. I am already building the Vulcan max 440 based on VUlcman's design. But I would like to join your effort and contribute in whatever way I can.<br> sent you a PM.</p>
<p>Visit the FaceBook group @ https://www.facebook.com/groups/1749713418650295/ or https://www.facebook.com/groups/ENIAC40/. From there you'll be able to connect with the couple of us that are building this out. If the URLS don't work, search Facebook Groups for &quot;ENIAC40&quot;</p>
<p>This design looks incredible. Just out of curiosity, how easy do you think this would be for a first time builder and how much is the cost of all the parts?</p>
<p>Wow, ein wirklich gut durchdachter Drucker. Eine so saubere &auml;u&szlig;ere Erscheinung bringen selbst einige kommerzielle Ger&auml;te &uuml;ber 1000&euro; nicht mit. Ich w&uuml;rde aber eher zu einer Silikonheizmatte z.B. von Keenovo f&uuml;r ca. 35&euro; greifen als selbst ein Heizbett zu wickeln. Wenn man mit 230V hantiert, ist das denke ich ne Spur sicherer.</p>
<p>Vielen Dank :-)</p><blockquote><p>Ich w&uuml;rde aber eher zu einer Silikonheizmatte z.B. von Keenovo f&uuml;r ca. <br>35&euro; greifen als selbst ein Heizbett zu wickeln. Wenn man mit 230V <br>hantiert, ist das denke ich ne Spur sicherer.</p></blockquote><p>Ich w&uuml;rde h&ouml;chstens auf 24V setzen. Man sollte 230V nicht untersch&auml;tzen</p>
I can make the frame and do the electrics myself but I don't have access to the facilities to make the custom parts
Would someone here be able to make the printed parts and sentd them to me?
<p>Ich melde mich mal wieder weil unser Druckerbau so langsam in die letzte Phase geht. Es fehlt noch das Heizbett und eine saubere Verkabelung.</p><p>Nach diversen PNs mit Vulcaman haben wir auf Repetier (Firmware) gewechselt und die funktioniert einwandfrei. Alle Achsen fahren sauber und in Verbindung mit Repetier Server/Host ist es ein Traum von Steuerungssoftware/Slicer.</p><p>Eine Einsicht haben wir aber auch gewonnen: Der Preis von ca. 400,- Euro pro Drucker ist kaum zu schaffen. Wir haben praktisch alle hier empfohlenen H&auml;ndler genutzt (Aliexpress usw.), sind aber mittlerweile auf ca. 600,- Euro. Wenn man fehlende Teile nicht gerade in der Kramkiste hat, mu&szlig; man diese durchaus kostenintensiv nachkaufen (Widerstandsdraht, Alu-Verkleidung, Heizbett, ...)</p><p>Wir haben aber auch zus&auml;tzliche Dinge installiert: LED Beleuchtung f&uuml;r den Druckraum, Webcam, ...</p><p>Nichtsdestotrotz, selbst f&uuml;r diesen Preis bekommt man kein vergleichbares Ger&auml;t auf dem Markt. :D</p>
<p>Befasse mihc jetz auch shcon eine Weile mit dem Gedanken ein Vulcanus zu bauen. echt genial. frage mich nur was eigentlich der unterschied zwischen dem Arduino mega und dem due ist? bringt diese 32 bit version sovielmehr? weil mit dem aktuelen Mega 2560 druckt es ja auch oder?</p>
<p>Der Arduino Due hat halt mehr Rechenleistung. Der mega 2560 funktioniert jedoch auch. Drucken kannst du mit beiden, jedoch kannst du mit dem Due h&ouml;here Microstepps benutzten. Das ist eigentlich der wesentliche Unterschied.</p><p>Mfg</p>
<p>Hi Vulcaman</p><p>DANKE, dass du dir so viel M&uuml;he mit Deinen Projekten machst und das Du uns dran teil haben l&auml;sst.</p><p>Ich w&uuml;rde diesen tollen Drucker gerne nachbauen, nur habe ich leider das Problem, dass ich (noch) keinen eigenen Drucker habe, womit ich die Plastikteile drucken kann. Wer k&ouml;nnte mir bitte die Teile drucken? Preisvorschlag bitte per PN. Danke.</p><p>Ich finde es auch schade, dass es auf Facebook ist, womit ich leider nichts anfangen kann :-(</p><p>Falls es Interesse an eigene Website besteht, dann k&ouml;nnte ich es f&uuml;r Dich realisieren.</p><p>Viele Gr&uuml;&szlig;e</p>
Wir haben uns erlaubt eine Gruppe f&uuml;r alle Vulcanus Bauarten zu er&ouml;ffnen und w&uuml;rden uns freuen euch unter Gleichgesinnten willkommen hei&szlig;en zu d&uuml;rfen. <br><br>Diese Einladung geht nat&uuml;rlich auch direkt an Vulcaman. <br>Wir w&uuml;rden uns freuen dich dort zu sehen. <br><br>https://www.facebook.com/groups/1713642868872918/
<p>Schade das es gerade bei Facebook ist...das ist f&uuml;r mich ein NoGo. ;)</p><p>Mein Nachbar und ich bauen gerade zwei der Drucker. Die Mechanik ist fast fertig und ich werkele an der Elektronik...</p>
<p>Das sieht doch schonmal ganz ordentlich aus. :-)</p>
Eine eigene Website daf&uuml;r h&auml;tte sich wohl wenig gebracht. <br><br>Es gibt genug Drucker Foren und jetzt nur f&uuml;r den Vulcanus eine Site an zu legen naja.
<p>Das verstehe ich schon...die Facebook-Gruppe darf man aber nicht mal lesen wenn man nicht bei Facebook ist. :(</p>
<p>I had same issue here.</p><p>I could not compile the firmware. Neither with Windows nor Linux...</p><p>But I think I got a solution:</p><p>comment out all includes in &quot;.ino.cpp&quot; below &quot;pins.h&quot; and add full qualified path for &quot;Marlin.ino&quot;. ;)</p>
<p>I don`t know if you could help. I have an compiling error when i want to wirte the firmware to the Due board. It claims that i`m missing the LiquidCrystal_I2C.h</p><p>but even when i insert this file from github i get an &quot;error 1&quot;</p>
<p>If you have problems with marlin2due, you can also try Repetier Firmware which should als work with the hacked ramps</p>
<p>Hello</p><p>Please upload a file:</p><p> X-end nut&quot;-printed part</p><p>X-end screw&quot; printed part</p><p>My system does not support 32-bit and Fusion 360</p><p>I printed a couple of parts I and now I do not complete Parts</p><p>please help</p>
<p>Hallo, wo hast du alle die Kabel bestellt ?</p><p>Danke und riesen grosses respekt &uuml;ber deine arbeit :)</p>
<p>Hello Vulcaman</p><p>I like your hack but I have very low knowledge about electronics(more about mechanics)</p><p>Can you give me if possible a step by step photographic procedure to do it?</p><p>thank in advance!</p><p>Maurizio</p>
hey can we directly scavenge x and y axis from an inkjet printer
<p>Of cause, you can use the X/Y axis from an Inkjet printer to build a 3d printer, but you cant use my printed parts</p>
<p>What kind auf cooling solution for the printed parts do you use here?</p>
<p>Hi,</p><p>i am using this cooling fan </p><p>http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:510957</p>
Cool 3D Printer Project. About how much did you spend on this, and was the aluminum plate hard to make?
<p>Hi,</p><p>I spend around 400&euro; for this Printer. I think you need some basic metal working skills to cut the aluminium plates</p>
How many decades does this prohect rouchly take?
<p>Hi,</p><p>It takes me about two month in total</p>
*project roughly lol
Nice build! I just wonder what is the weight of this thing. 12mm rods and so much extrusion and sheet metal on the outside...<br>By the way, was modifying RAMPS for 32 bit your idea?.. I have googled for hours for this kind of thing quite a while ago and couldn't find anything.<br>Although I didn't build any of your printers, I have to thank you. Your V1 inspired me to build a CoreXY machine (I even tried to print a XY-coupler from your design, but seeing how massive and full of fasteners it is I ended up designed whole printer on my own, haha:-D )<br>If my kid would have hobbies like that &ndash; I would get him everything on his BOM no questions asked. My guess is your parents must be really proud.<br>Thanks, Vulcanman! Keep up the good work!
<p>To modify the ramps 1.4 to 32 Bit was not exaxctly my Idea, I was inspirated by this Thread in the Reprap Forum:</p><p><a href="http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?219,479626,page=1">http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?219,479626,page=...</a></p><p>best regards</p><p>Vulcaman</p>
<p>I see you're making use of CNY17 optocouplers, but I haven't found any detailed instructions on the thread you've pointed out. Is this implementation of level shifting for RAMPS your idea? Could you post a more detailed info like simple connection scheme please?</p><p>Also, your diode &quot;proxyboard&quot; is awesome. But as well &ndash; some more information would be nice.</p><p>Thanks!</p>
<p>Hi tbureev,</p><p>sorry for the late reply. I updated my instruction with some more information about the RAMPS 1.4 and Motordriver Hack</p><p>best regards</p><p>Vulcaman</p>
<p>For the Nuts that would be perhaps a alternive: </p><p><a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1061769" rel="nofollow">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1061769</a></p><p>Alo if you don't like to solder the extra pcb for the Ramps Board you can also use an RAMPS-FD which fits directly to the Arduino DUO board:</p><p>f.e.:</p><p>http://de.aliexpress.com/store/product/Reprap-New-Pololu-Shield-RAMPS-FD-for-Arduino-Due-3D-printer-controller-instead-of-RAMPS1-4/110623_1483450971.html?storeId=110623</p>

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Bio: I am an 18 years old guy from Germany who love to make things. Later I want to become an Electrical Engineer :-)
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