This is my first Instructable but I have used so many for ideas and love the community input!

I live in downstate Michigan and went to college in the UP met a whole crew of Finlanders and was introduced to the Sauna! and its pronounced SOuna not SAWNA but i still slip from time to time if you arnt a yooper it takes time.

I graduated and moved back downstate for work but my life was lacking because i no longer had access to the "poor mans medicine box" so naturally i want to fill that gap. Research began to see my options for having my own sauna. Student Loan debt is a mother sucker and takes up a large portion of my income so $$ was tight so building looked better than buying and of course is much more rewarding.

I searched the web and found a few things but nothing really helpful for building a finish style  wood burning sauna. I am getting into woodworking its becoming  my after work hobby and this was the largest project i have done and still have a few things ill get to at some point. So I winged it at times but at the end of the day the sucker works as intended.

Step 1: Fall 2013 Update

The Sauna has been up and running for over a year now and been used about ~70 times. It has grayed from original yellow looking pine on the exterior and the cedar interior is still aromatic but less intense after time has gone on. The window that cracked has been replaced by an vinyl window picked up from Habitat for Humanity for $20 and a woodbox/bench has been built. Over the summer it didn't get used weekly but now that fall is here it is Sauna season!! I also improved the rock to stove pipe ratio by taking a section of steel wire rack and bending it to create a cylinder. The heat has been able to be held for a much longer time with these additions and looks pretty good with the flowers in bloom.
Ok Finn's other experienced people, do you need the vapour barrier? i was planning lumber of some sort outside, cedar or pine inside? seems to me the sauna will be steamy, but for couple hours after the sauna is done it'll still be hot, also would the vapour barrier not actually hinder a drying out process? Lastly if not using vapour barrier is rock wool sufficient insulation, or something else?? thanks m
Looks good! A suggestion for you for a cheap but heat proof window. An old oven door window can be picked up for next to nothing and should be a lot more stable for you. You'll of course need to frame it yourself but that's half the fun.
nice I dea, like it!
<p>Does anyone know of a carbon monoxide monitor that is suitable for a sauna? Most of them can't be used in a heated or humid environment. I can't find anything online and wondered what others have used?</p>
<p>No, but if you nee a CO detector, then your Sauna isn't safe to begin with ... with your concerns, I would opt for the infrared (electric) heated unit.</p>
<p>This comment is smug and unhelpful. Instead of telling everyone how sauna smart and experienced you are, why not just explain why you feel a carbon monoxide monitor is unnecessary for a sauna. It is a rational concern: small rooms with wood stoves can be dangerous (we've all experienced down drafts filling houses and cabins with smoke)</p>
<p>Speaking as someone of finnish descent and who grew up using a sauna almost daily, a properly built sauna will have the feed for the stove on the exterior of the sauna, which means a CO detector shouldn't be necessary. I would never recommend going in a sauna which feeds the stove inside the sauna room.</p>
I've used wood saunas in Finland where they were internal. never heard of a problem. I suppose as Finns use them like crazy as a nation there must be some level of annual incidents ?
What he is saying is if you have doubts about CO you would not use such a sauna. you wouldn't take the risk, hence never having a CO monitor. All the Finnish saunas I have been in, are very well ventilated, and the process of dousing the first Loyll of water (excuse spelling) eliminates any remaining embers.
<p>hi Pema I'm looking around for the same thing. Let me know if you find anything. I was planning to use a household CO monitor and seeing what happens. I'm almost done with my sauna and have fired up my stove once. I used a multirae gas meter from work and the highest the CO got with stove doors closed was around 8 ppm which I hear is not so good to be sitting in for a prolonged period. Thanks</p>
<p>very inspiring. I am retiring soon, I hope to build a sauna next to my cabin (after I build the cabin, lol). You (and your commenters) have brought up several good points to consider for the project.</p><p>Thank you.</p>
<p>Thanks for the inspiration. After wanting to build a sauna for many years and scanning through many build sites like yours, I finally decided to try my luck and built a 12'x14' sauna consisting of a 6'x12' hot room and an 8'x12' changing/party room. I tried to document as detailed as possible each step of the build hoping it helps someone like us that tries this DIY project. My writeup and photos can be found here:<br><br>http://outdoorsaunabuildmndiy.blogger.com/<br><br>Thanks again!<br>Julian</p>
<p>Awesome Project!</p><p>Can I ask where you sourced your Cedar from? I live in NW Ohio and I may be able to use same source. </p><p>Thanks, Dustin</p>
<p>RE: Exploding rocks. This is a big risk but a little basic geology knowledge will help you out. We have built a lot of native-American style sweatlodges using hot rocks for heating, just like a sauna except made out of tarps and blankets. Chert, which is commonly found associated with limestone, will explode when heated. Shoots hot splinters all over the place, one time right through one of my tents. Many other kinds of rocks will not, (this is based on experience) including granite (might be common in Michigan?) limestone without chert nodules, sandstone. Most igneous rock (basalt, granite, etc) should be OK. I'd probably stay away from Shale, Coal (this could burn!), and anything crumbly (might hold water which could explode). <br><br>Keep this in mind: Some rocks are Gneiss-er than others, but you can take it for Granite that these should be fine. Your sauna will be hot, not Coal, if you follow these instructions. If you can't keep this list straight, put it into a checklist on a clipboard and keep it as a Chert on the wall. Never Basalt your food before tasting it. Now the judge has finally banged the Gravel. </p>
<p>Should I use a clipboard or a SLATE chalkboard? Lol </p>
<p>Be careful with the sandstone. I had a piece of flagstone explode violently and crack a cast iron wood stove. The stone was sitting on top for about an hour before exploding. We were lucky no one was hurt. The stone hit the fence behind us with some serious force and had all the dogs in the neighborhood barking.</p>
Thats excellent! My wife and i plan to build one just like yours in the near future! I will be using a small woodstove in ours. Nothing like a good sweat on a cold winters day!
<p>YEAH!!!!! I want this. And a cold shower.</p>
<p>Very nice</p>
<p>Aww yeah! SAUNA. Are these things really so rare. We do this every weekend! ( in Estonia)</p>
<p>good project, I don't know much about SOUnas but seems to me like having a carbon monoxide sensor would be a good idea. Congrats on your project.</p>
<p>it would just go nuts because of the heat and steam (you do know the rocks are there for throwing water at them, right? hot rock+water=steam, which is good for your health), so no point there. there's really not that much of a risk of carbon monoxide if there's enough draft to keep the smoke going out of the chimney.</p>
<p>Hey have you ever heard of making a sauna out of cement cinder blocks? I have a bunch of them sitting around and wanted to know if you think they would work...</p>
<p>that would not be a sauna, that's a bunker. trust me, i'm finnish and i have built a few saunas before.</p>
<p>enjoyed your diy so much it inspired me to have a group of my building trades students make a similar sauna. They had to research first and found they used slat floors, poplar benches (don't hold heat). They made it so it was a true 4 x 8' on the inside. Thanks for the inspiration! </p>
<p>Wow! Thats beautiful! Your students did a great job. I live in Florida now so when I want to take a sauna I just sit in the car with the windows up...</p><p>Does someone get to take it home?</p>
We sold it for 3200... Ul approved stove and chimney. Cedar tongue and groove on the inside. We are located just outside of duluth.
<p>I opened it up for students to buy it first, not much interest so I am hoping to sell it and make a little for the program.</p>
<p>Tyler,</p><p>I realize I may be way late on the take here, but did you ever sell the sauna your students built?? Do you still have it? I am in southern Michigan and have been looking for used ones on the cheap. I looked into the barrel kits, but they are quite pricey. I may have to try a DIY:)</p>
<p>yes we sold it. We are thinking of putting together another one. The 4x8 was a bit tight quarters so we may open this one up a bit larger. Let me know if your interested. It would be done mid may. </p>
<p>I would be interested if the price was right:) If you don't mind me asking, how much did you sell the sauna for? Where are you located? I am also a teacher....6th grade at Mattawan Middle School.</p>
Tyler,<br><br>If you don't mind me asking, how much did the other one go for? My budget would probably be $1500 or less. I would be interested if the price was right? I am a teacher myself:) Where are you located?<br><br>Scott<br>
<p>We are exploring DIY Sauna's right now, thanks for the inspiration!</p>
<p>This is absolutely awesome! I have been thinking about building a sauna for a long time, but I'm waiting until I choose which one to build. I have found on the internet three different types. Traditional saunas, infrared saunas, and portable saunas.</p><p>So far infrared saunas have seemed to be the most simple/efficient to buy and build. There are many kits out there that are relatively cheap for the value that they provide. Has anyone tried infrared saunas before? The best information I have found about them so far has been from this page <a href="http://www.bestsaunaheater.com/best-type-of-sauna/" rel="nofollow"> http://www.bestsaunaheater.com/best-type-of-sauna...</a></p><p>If anyone has experience please reply back as I'm leaning towards this type of sauna.</p>
<p>Thanks for this instructable, the instructions are much appreciated and I'm looking forward to try and make my own</p>
<p>Nice project! A few years back I (well, mostly my dad) we did a backyard restoration; refinished the pool, built a deck + a woodburning sauna. Unlike yours mine was done with bought material including the kiuas (stove). </p><p>Pictures of the whole project: <a href="https://plus.google.com/photos/110778373577785592444/albums/5576167618153835345?authkey=CMz1_6rJ8cmaLw" rel="nofollow">https://plus.google.com/photos/1107783735777855924...</a></p><p>1) Insulating the walls would help greatly since the wood used is quite thin: <a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/kJ9KeFrh-BO9gD_TnG0o9bkNjphGxKj_Ru1jFzBeNvk=w338-h224-p-no" rel="nofollow">https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/kJ9KeFrh-BO9gD_T...</a></p><p>2) Adding a brick firewall around the stove would be a good security feature: <a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zmal5vEoF0GI0RigzUNwL_eb3M5SDLNJEFjOi0n2Sjo=w338-h224-p-no" rel="nofollow">https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zmal5vEoF0GI0Rig...</a></p><p>3) Fire-proofing the pipe exit hole should be done with extra care: <a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-RuVZqVMiKQ0/T2PjF71Bx6I/AAAAAAAALPk/o6nabKeENZg/w446-h671-no/DSC_0105.JPG" rel="nofollow">https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-RuVZqVMiKQ0/T2P...</a></p><p>Enjoying the fin(n)ished product in Texas winter: <a href="https://plus.google.com/photos/110778373577785592444/albums/5720665482389030689" rel="nofollow">https://plus.google.com/photos/1107783735777855924...</a></p><p>I have since moved to Florida and in the next few months I will start building an electric sauna inside the house.</p>
<p>Thanks for potting those pictures and great work! I plan on building one on a budget for my parents this summer and your pictures are good inspirational material</p>
Great indestructible I also just saw somewhere a article about the major health benefits for a man's heart using one of these !
<p>looks like it could be a nice smoke house too with some small changes...</p>
<p>Well done... a project I have always wanted to take on but local zoning has made it questionable. I like your resourcefulness in building, planning and cost control. For the next sauna many big city municipalities are banning wood stoves in certain provinces like Quebec thus giving an opportunity to pick up a wood stove for scrap metal cost. See a dealer and put in a request now and store the stove for future use thus giving time to pick and choose. They store easily outside covered. They will likely give you the address with the clients permission and you can pick up a wood stove for the $100 or less. It is picking it up. Check online to see which municipalities are banning. Nice project.</p>
<p>Just putting this out there, but wood dries really fast in a 150 degree sauna. Just sayin'.</p>
<p>I love this idea of a back yard sauna. Thank you for posting your project. It is years away for me but I like knowing that the plans are out there.</p>
<p>Nice job! I really miss our sauna. We moved from Chicago to Nairobi, Kenya. Though the evenings can get chilly here, it wouldn't be quite as satisfying to build a sauna -- at least not compared to the crazy cold and snow of the Midwest. After seeing the kit prices, I built mine from scratch in my house's old root cellar. Excellent location if any of you have one and aren't really using it. The thick cement walls and partially underground location is ideal for insulation. Being inside without access to a flue, I bought a new electric sauna stove. Not as nice as a wood burner, for sure, but necessary. Also worked with a great lumber mill (in N Michigan) for cedar. They were great. While not a kit, they did use my drawings to cut sizes to just over my dimensions, making for very little waste. </p><p>One thought on anyone wanting to build one... you might want to invest in foil-faced insulation. In addition to a vapor barrier, I covered all of the framing with this, sealing it with foil tape, and it not only insulates but bounces back the heat into the room. </p><p>Though I'll never complain about the temperate climate here, I would love to teleport back for a weekly sauna during a Chicago winter, complete with some cycles of jumping in the snow and dumping buckets of water over our heads out in the backyard. Good times.</p>
<p>I have built a number of sauna/ Bania stoves and buildings, the first thing to remember as a previous contributor mentioned the stove is best when fed from the outside with the chimney running horizontal going out above the stove. The stoves i have built have been made from steel pilling cut offs with a bock and a door welded on along with the chimney adapter welded on the top. My home sauna is built from logs with one large double glazed window the room is 10' by 12' and heats up to 180+ if anybody would like pictures I would gladly provide such.</p><p>As far as the mention of the temperature measurement system is concerned......deg Fahrenheit are quite simple and it does not take much imagination or intelligence to deduce the nature of the scale being used. The arbitrary use of the boiling point and freezing point of water as the basis of the system of measure has a few problems related in it's own right, along with the arbitrary use of inconsistent standards for measure that are employed in the same system. </p>
<p>Yeah, you'betcha, dis' here is a nice instructable. Holy wah!</p>
I failed to mention in my previous comment that lining the propane tank with fire brick will increase the thermal mass of the stove and help it stay hot longer.
Nicely done! <br><br>The propane tank stove and black stove pipe definitely don't meet clearance to combustibles, but being a shed out back, who cares really. You could get 4&quot; inner, 6&quot; outer double wall flue pipe to decrease the necessary clearance around that flue. That would also lessen the chance of someone being burned. Another added benefit of the smaller inner flue pipe is a bit slower burn time. Adding another offset may also increase your burn time. I'm sure you already know, but choking down the air intake or closing up the baffle will slow the burn. <br><br>For the leak take a 2&quot; piece of thin sheet metal wrap it around the flue and attach it to the roof with screws or rivets so you have a 2&quot; vertical wall that mimics the flue, but a bit wider than the flue pipe. That is called a spin collar. Seal that piece to the roof with NP-1 and then take another piece of sheet metal and wrap it around the flue above the spin collar. It will make a skirt over the spin collar, called a storm collar. The storm collar can be screwed to itself. Seal that piece to the flue with high temp silicone and you will no longer have leaks. This apparently is a bit difficult to explain, but I can send you pictures to illustrate if you would like. Depending on your Google-Fu, you may be able to search out an illustration. <br><br>1/2&quot; or thicker acrylic could be used for your window to mitigate heat loss. <br><br>Source: I am a home builder and certified chimney sweep.
I used an old stove and moved the pipe from back to front, then put a baffle inside. Essentially, the door and pipe are outside the sauna, the only thing in the sauna is about 2 feet of stove(the rear). It heats to over 170 degrees in an hour and sits 6-8 people.
<p>Great job ! How I like it!!!</p>
<p>Great Job! :{)</p>

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