"Whoever holds this hammer, if he be worthy, shall possess the power of...THOR"  

Hi, welcome to my instructable.
For me, super hero movies were always an inspiration. I always wanted to build technical toys which could help me feel alike to those heros. When I saw the feature "THOR" for the first time, I very much liked his hammer. That's why I decided to build one for myself and of course share with you the full step by step instructable. 
I hope you will enjoy it!

Marvel Rules!

Step 1: The Idea, PDF Instructions and Printouts

The real Thor hammer allows you to fly, throw lightnings and so and so on.
Ours will be a bit simpler compared to the original but it will meet at least a few points.
  • It must be strong to survive punching and hitting, but on the other hand should be light enough for easy handling
  • It must look like Thor's hammer
  • It must be done out of a dying star
  • It must come to life on after you touch it
  • It must throw or be thrown…
I decided to have the hammer made out of steel because it will make the project simpler. 
Steel is solid so the hammer will get stronger, Mjolnir was also made out of metal, so mine is going to look like the real one.
All the elements in the universe except hydrogen, helium, lithium and beryllium where made in stars, so my Mjolnir is going to be made out of a dead star!!
The last two points I'm going to solve with electronics.
Throwing my hammer wouldn't be very efficient, since it would (probably) not return to its master by itself.
That is why i found another solution:
Instead of throwing Mjolnir, I'm throwing pieces of metal that are connected to the hammer. How? By means of an electro magnet.
Switched on it will "grab" metal objects, and when switched off – release them again.
If one circles around oneself, you build up a lot of momentum (like in the Olympic hammer throw), but you won't let go of the hammer, but of the metal pieces temporarily connected.
Enough of theory, lets collect the parts and build it!

Step 2: Basic Metal Construction

Each number refers to a picture:

1. Like every good project, this too started off on the designing table. The original plans are a bit crude, though some ideas (copper wire, meassures) were already sketched out. See the included PDF file for a more refined layout.

2. The metal used here is steel (3mm), bent to specifications ((see PDF file).One can see the added tongues to later close the body of the hammer head. The side walls aren‘t fixed yet.

3. Two more tongues fixed to connect with the side walls. A hole to connect the hammer head (holding the electronic gear) with the handle (carrying the switch).

4. Here you can see better the side walls – plus the 8 holes (4 tongues, 4 sides) for the screws, to keep the gear inside accessible. Later it came to my mind that one could have used a C-beam (half an I-beam) to build this structure,too.

5. The hammerhead assembled, it‘s a tight fit, with almost no gaps to be seen. On this picture you can see the handle connected to the body, it‘s a 27 mm metal tube, 50 cm long.

Step 3: Copper Wire Handle Deco

Each number refers to a picture:

1. Refering to my initial idea to make stripes of copper decoration on the handle, I started to pre-bend 8,8 metres of 2mm wire into shape. Use tape to fasten your starting point.

2. Then it‘s just pure handwork – turn the hammer and try to keep the wire as snuggly to the handle‘s wall as possible. At that moment I had no plan yet how to keep the wire fixed to the handle.

3. At that moment the hammer has already got it‘s cool look!
Now let‘s go on for its functionality.

Step 4: The Electronic Heart of Mjolnir

Each number refers to a picture:

1. To make our hammer magnetic, we need to have a power supply.
I chose to use 9x 9V batteries, they are small, cheap and easy to get.

2. This is the electro magnet. You can buy one, like I did, or you could build one yourself (using similar copper wire I used for the outside deco, but thinner). This one cost around $30.

3. Small picture shows a switch relay. It works on the basis of another electro magnet, Since I‘m using an altogether voltage of 27V and a few Amperes, I didn‘t want to risk to destroy the simple push button (later fixed to the handle).

Step 5: The Circuit

Each number refers to a picture:

1. This is the circuit layout (see PDF). One can see the 3 blocks of batteries, linked to the e-magnet and the relay. The relay is fed by its own battery circuit, (seen on the previous picture) and switched on by a push button.

2. A test of the circuit: instead of the magnet there is a control lamp, the switch is not the switch later to be used on the handle – but the lit diode showed the system worked.

Step 6: Power Supply and Assemblage

Each number refers to a picture:

1. Before connecting the 9V batteries together, I tried different locations for them – this one in the end didn‘t get used, but it gave me a good sense of the space available.

2. The batteries are bundled in 3x3 blocks, they are separated to leave a center space for the electro magnet. The batteries in each block are connected in paralleles. This way the Amperes are rising – thus the power of the electro magnet.

3. To get a higher voltage, the blocks are now connected in series. The little loop in the small picture connects minuses (3) of one block with the pluses (3) of the second block.

4. The last block to be connected in series needs a longer cable to cover the gap (because the magnet goes in between).
Now we have 27V (9+9+9V).
And a few Amperes (don‘t own an ammeter :-)).

5. The complete circuit waiting to be packed. From left to right:
The battery for the relay, the relay, the power unit (27V) and the electro magnet.

6. Let‘s take out the hot glue to make every part at home where it belongs. In the head of the hammer you can see the real placement of the power unit. I tried to use the hot glue on the e-magnet itself too, but it kept falling off. A different solution (later more) had to be called for.

Step 7: Preparing the Switch and Painting

Each number refers to a picture:

1. Locate the place for your switch. The hammer is supposed to build up centrifugal force, so both hands should always sty in contact with the handle. The red tape indicates the place under my thumb that I can easily manipulate without losing control of the hammer.

2. Here‘s the real switch, it‘s a micro switch. Once the hole is drilled, the body of the switch vanishes in the tube. But it can‘t be pressed in completely, so there‘s a resistance needed, here provided by inserting a plastic tube, that perfectly fit into the handle.

3. After drilling, there is the time to do some cosmetic work. I wanted the head to be of a clean metal look, the handle contrasted with black and copper. This was the final color from these spray cans, so to avoid the usual speckles I covered the head completely.

4. I‘m painting the handle. It‘s a nice black matte finish.

5. Let‘s see how we can fix the copper wire. How about providing a start and an end hole on the handle – like this the wire won‘t slide up or down, and is kept from unwinding itself, too.

6. This is the hole opposite to the switch, seen before. To also keep the plastic tube from sliding inside the handle, but keeping it at the same time retractable in case of repair, I thought of making a channel, back and front. The hole on the plastic outlines the depth needed.

7. To make the channel I used an angle grinder. Watch out for your hands and keep the working object fixed properly. Two clamps for a stabilizing wood, two for the tube. I used the red line on the tube to keep the longer channel straight, the shorter to the switch went freehand.

8. The place for the switch was marked before. The notch (rather than channel) allows me to bring the cables to the micro switch, which will „sit“ on the plastic tube.Switch and copper starter are 180 degrees opposite to each other.

Step 8: Copper Wired Grip

Each number refers to a picture:

1. The bottom hole to fix the copper wire. It has to be 90 degrees to either switch or starting point.
I had the intention to lead the wire through metal and plastic tube, but I had to change my plan a bit later…

2. I put the pre-bent wire into the starting hole as deep as the plastic tube inside allowed, thus blocking it from escaping. With a (real) hammer, I bent the wire tight towards the handle‘s wall, then putt the loops on the handle and tightened them to the bottom.
There the wire was cut and fixed to the bottom hole.

3. To keep it tight, bend the wire to the internal wall.
Now how do we get the plastic tube inside, and keep it moveable?
Change of plans: let‘s make a groove all along the tube…
See – shown on the small pict.

4. Great – everything fits!
So far the external design of my hammer…

5. It looks so nice – just as a decoration object!
Now let‘s add the switch and see if it works, too?

Step 9: The Switch - Completed

Each number refers to a picture:

1. This micro switch actually has got four legs, but we need just two for our cables. One leg goes into the notch, for the second leg we need to drill another hole.
Bend away the ones you don‘t need.

2. The two operating legs connected to wiring.

3. The cables going out from the hammer head, reaching the hole for the switch. Now connect…

4. Small picture: the switch is connected.
Big picture: the switch in its final place of destination. Add some epoxy glue if needed. Mine fit quite tight.

5. Do you remember me trying to fix the magnet with hot glue?
Didn‘t stuck to the straight metal surface…:-)So I had to come up with this solution, a metal band strapped around to be tightened.

Step 10: More Decor And... Done!

Each number refers to a picture:

1. A last decorative element, to be fixed along the hammer head. I went to a printer to get me some writing on self-adhesive foil.
I included the text on a PDF file.

2. The foil is a one-go element, so you can‘t tear it off and try again if you glued it warped or false.
I‘ve been told that some water with dishwashing liquid allows for prolonged manipulation of the foil.

3. Then squeeze out the excess water with a credit card or something.
Looking at the result, I‘m not sure if I can endorse the advice I got, there‘s some goo remains under the (transparent) foil.

Step 11: The Hammer Works - It's Too Strong to Wield!

Oh gee!
I gathered too much of a speed – there I go…
<p>Does it weigh as much?</p>
<p>Thor was riding around all day on Slepnir ,the six-legged horse,swinging his hammer and shouting &quot;I AM THOR&quot;.Slepnir finally tired of the noise and said &quot;Of courth your thor you thilly .you forgot your thaddle.</p>
<p>It reminds me of my first job at 14 years old,the company I worked for got a contract to put down Railroad cross ties at a county school bus lot,over 1200 of them,and each had to be held in place with 3 sections of re-rod 3'.I had to drive those things into a gravel parking lot for $2.95 an hour,Americans will do hard work.Nice hammer,and instructable,but I wont be making this one.</p>
<p>I am searching good ideas for my children and foud you!!</p><p>thank you very much for this great instructable</p>
i think its a cool hammer. good job!
Just wanted to mention, there is no such thing as centrifugal force, its centripetal force. Otherwise, great instructible and project!
Actually, both exist. Centrifugal force causes a motion from the centre of a revolving object, directly toward the extremes of the object. Centripetal force causes an abject to follow a predefined path, like those &quot;loop the loop&quot; toy cars. <br>:)
Already stated by Berkenridge but whatever, its still really funny.
Thanks!<br>In Non Inertial reference frame it is called centrifugal force but in inertial reference frame it's called centripetal. And both are correct and existing!
Bah, stupid high school physical science teacher &gt;.&gt;
Little late to the party but http://xkcd.com/123/
Ive been holding this hammer so long my arms getting &quot;thor,&quot;
haha :)
define working....
the real hammer is 1 handed, isnt it? :P
how wide is the hole you drillled in the handle for the micro-switch for the electro-magnet? cool video too. i like the bit when you smash up the chair. lol, die chair, die!
Hi mr awesome<br>the hole for the micro-switch is 8 mm wide<br>Thanks for following<br>And the chair is actually an old barbeque grill :)
I think it would look cool if you made the grip out of a leather strip running all the way up the handle, with a loop-strap.
Man, this is pretty nice! Congrats!<br><br>I want to make one myself, but on a different style - I'm going to use zamak and make a solid head. I'm going to make a more realistic hammer. <br><br>Anyway, comments on your project:<br><br>Nice, very nice, as I said. You could cover the handle with leather and put some sort of button at the end of the handle - like an antler or bone plug. It would look very nice. <br><br>A leather loop, as said, would also be closer to the original and avoid it slipping off your hands (or are you the real Thor? : ) and flying off into the sky.<br><br>The writing can also be done with electro-engraving. Pretty easy for you, obviously, and the results are very good. <br><br>The video is really funny! <br><br>Well, anyway, I think it's an awesome project! : )
Thanks!<br><br>I have never heard about electro-engraving. I must try it.<br>by the way please share some pics after you have finished working on your hammer
1) i love the enthusiasm in the video. you look like you were having a ton of fun.<br><br>2) depending on how strong you can make that magnet, you could get it to mimic the whole &quot;only the worthy can pick up mjolnir&quot; thing.<br><br>the magnet pins it to the ground, the &quot;unworthy&quot; can't move it (or, at least struggle picking it up). then the &quot;worthy&quot; (you and whoever you decide to tell about the hidden switch that turns off the magnet) walk up and pick it up with ease.<br><br>the only problem with this is having a heavy enough ferrous object to set the hammer on to begin with, but whatever... it'd be worth it.
Thanks for the ideas! I'm happy you enjoyed the clip.<br><br>I think i found a solution how to make this &quot;worth it&quot; work.<br>I thought about two contacts on the handle which i could easily connect with my hand and close the circuit. I could ad some transistors which would open by some voltage. Since the body has a big resistance the Mjolnir would never switch on so<br>I would use a glove with wires woven in, which then would have a smaller resistance than the hand, so i would be the only one worth it.<br><br>such a scene in which my friends are trying to lift the hammer off this metal peace is certainly missing!<br><br>I'm always glad for new ideas, if you have some more please do share them! :)
like the idea of the glove but... did Thor wear gloves? Haven't seen the movie yet and it has been a while since I've seen the comics, so I probably shouldn't bother commenting like this. Another way perhaps would be to figure out where your ring finger would be on the handle, then put 2 conductive thin conductive rings on the handle, somewhat close together. Slip a conductive ring on your finger, pick it up and complete the circuit. Was also thinking couldn't you make the handle out of ferrous metal, then when you do your copper wrapped handle, hook the 2 ends up to your battery pack and it would be your electromagnet. Either way, this is a an awesome instructable.
I'm happy you like my instructable.<br>You are right Thor did not wear a glove. The ring idea is great because nobody will suspect that this is the solution to switch on the Mjolnir.<br><br> My handle is made out of steel so it is ferrous and I have even tried to make an electromagnet out of my handle with the copper wire I used later for the deco, but the amount of it gave a week result and I had no more time to buy a new thiner and longer one. But you are right it would work right as well.<br><br>I wonder if this wrapped copper wire on the handle could work as the electromagnet and as the coil for the tesla coil. I have no idea about this generator.
Umm as soon as you said &quot;Tesla coil&quot; you *sparked* my attention.... Pun intended lol, I cannot even begin to imagine the technical challenges associated with trying to ground yourself apart from the 10,000+ volts.<br><br>You're only hope is a gauntlet (Glove), with sleeve, that has wires woven into it to create a faraday cage out of your arm which is wielding the hammer of power!<br><br>....And to boot, you would then have these crazy arcs flowing up your arm, and towards any ferrous object near to you (If you could juice the coil enough that is)<br><br>Dangerous yes...but isn't anything truly spectacular going to be anyways?
i second (or third) the ring idea... and i second a strap on the end of the handle. if that thing gets away from you, it will definitely do some damage.
wear a ring that can connect the circuit, press the ring against the two contact points - voila
Instead of a glove why not finish it with a leather loop that wraps around your wrist. The switch could be a contact switch on the inside of the loop and your wrist completes the circut. <br>Just an idea.<br><br>Either way this does need a leather loop to help you hold the thing when swinging it in circles. And Thor did use it if my memory serves from my youth comic obsession.
You could have at least added wings to your hat (although I noticed it did fly off at one point)! Or is that your next Instructible?<br><br>Or you could have just put a pigeon under your cap?<br><br>;o)
That is actually... INCREDIBLY AWESOME!!!<br><br>Fantastic job, and your video made me crack up laughing<br>
Thank you very much!
So it doesn't summon lightning?? :-(<br>Oh, well... We'll get there eventually.<br><br>Nice thinking though! :-)
Thanx!<br><br>Lightnings are certainly missing!<br>I will have to work on it!
Looks pretty cool man, nice work! Keep up the wicked Marvel props :D<br>Only things that would be good to change is..<br>1. The straps on the handle being made from leather and having them go all the way to the top and a small loop on the bottom<br>2. The inscription on just one side saying &quot;Whosoever holds this hammer, if he be worthy, shall possess the power of Thor&quot;<br><br>About the gloves, only seen him wear them in the Ulimates series and was with the other version of Mjolnir<br><br>I think the power possessed at the moment is more like Magneto than Thors good luck with creating a mini tesla coil that you can control the direction with.. That would be freakin awesome
Thanks man!<br><br>1.I have bought a leather strap to wrap around the handle, but I decided to use the copper wire because of its cool steam punk look. The loop in the end of the handle I'm still going to make.<br><br>2.There is a inscription on both sides in the bottom. You can see it in the beggining of the clip. It says &quot;Whosoever holds this hammer,wields the power of Thor&quot; I changed the inscription because of lack of space. <br><br>
Personally I would not have put the electromagnet in, and instead put a block of redgum wood in the centre core of the hammer. The metal covers would hard drill in, and have a much more stable hammer, but that's just my opinion<br><br>Although the electromagnet is pretty cool, especially with the metal throwing ability!
jery good, keep on buliding
Thanks! I certainly will!
to shoot lighting bolts add tesla coil also did yopu know you are 95 percent stardust fun fact
Thanks for your comment!<br>I think your idea might work. If not tesla coil then maybe a van de graaff generator like in this instructable: <br>https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Lightning-Wand-a-Handheld-Van-de-Graaff-Genera/<br>I'm going soon on vacation so I will have a lot of time to think on my project and new ideas.<br>
ok so what about a something to fly maybe
I don't know what do you mean. Check 0:46 in the video, I'm puling big metal washers which I'm later throwing. The flying washer you can see in 0:49 in the clip.<br>It is one of the main functions of my hammer.
i know im asking how to make it fly humans
This sounds difficult!
beyond my skill level
really nice work, but in my opinion the handle is to long.... according to the legend (as written in the Edda) loki caused the steel to cool down a little while the smith was working on the handle and the handle turned out shorter than it should
Thanx!<br>Behind my long handle is also a story. I took a longer one because i thought: when the handle will be to short it will stay like this for ever, so i took a longer pipe for future changes. I wanted to have the handle short (as you can see: 2 step/ 1st Pict), but the first time I held the finished hammer the long handle felt so good in my hands that I decidet to stay with it.
Awesome!! uve seen some instructables wondering how to do them, but this is very clear! plenty of pictures and very discriptive. i could actually make this if i had the time and money! plus i love the idea! i would never have thought of makingthis, though if i had i wouldnt never of toughtr of the magnet!

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