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After I published my basic wire weaving tutorial I wanted to show how to use the techniques in a simple jewelry project. Well, it's taken a while, but here is a great beginner project that will make you look like an expert. This tutorial uses a basic wire weave and a sturdy bail design to create a beautiful, rustic gemstone donut pendant. The techniques you’ll learn in here can be the starting point for lots of variation and creativity. I hope you have fun with it.

This is my own design. Please be respectful and use it only for personal and gift-giving jewelry. Thank You!!

Step 1: What You Need

Materials:

1 – 45-50mm gemstone pendant

1 – 10.5 inch piece of 18 gauge, dead soft, round wire

8-10 feet of 24 gauge, dead soft, round wire

Tools:

Flat nose pliers

Round nose pliers

Wire cutters

Bail making pliers or mandrel

Marker

Ruler

Step 2: Make the Frame

Bend the 18g wire in half with your round nose pliers. Make sure the curve fits through the hole in you donut. Adjust as needed.

Step 3: Begin Weaving

This weave for this bail starts with a very simple, clean pattern. If you haven’t done much wire weaving, the straight pair of wires for this bail makes for easy practice. Essentially, you will loop the 24g wire back and forth around the 18g frame.

Cut 2-3 feet of the 24g wire and weave in the pattern. Begin close to the curve of the base wire frame.

Leaving a 1.5 inch tail (to hold on to) wrap the weaving wire (24g) around one base wire (18g) twice.

Hold the base wires so that the weaving wire ends on the top.

Step 4: Continue

Then wrap the weaving wire around the second base wire twice. This will also end on top.

Note:
How much weaving wire you cut at one time is determined by personal preference. Shorter lengths are easier to work with. Longer lengths require fewer pieces, which means fewer wire ends.

Step 5:

Continue keeping the base wires apart and parallel with your fingers.

Bring the weaving wire under the opposite (first) base wire and wrap it twice.

Step 6: The Pattern Takes Shape

Go back to the beginning of the pattern and keep weaving.

Step 7: Nicely Woven

Occasionally push the wires together with your fingers or pliers to keep the pattern close and tight.

Step 8: Step by Step

Here are the all the steps with purple cord representing the 24g weaving wire and wooden dowels representing the base wire.

Step 9:

Weave until you have about 1.25 inches done.

Step 10:

The section from the bottom of the base wire curve to the top of the weaving you just did should equal half the diameter of the donut. Leave the weaving wire end for now.

Step 11: The Other End

Wind the weaving wire “tail” at the base of the curve around the 18g wire bare spot. Use pliers to pull the wire through.

Step 12: Finish the Curve

Cover the whole curve and trim any extra wire. Make sure the 24g wire end is on the inside of the curve so there’s no scratchy piece sticking out. You can use chain nose pliers to secure the end. (If you ran out of wire before covering the whole curve, just spread out the loops you made.)

This end is done.

Anytime you run out of 24g wire you will end the old wire and begin the new wire as described above. When you don’t need the tail wire for your design, trim as close as possible to the inside of the base wire and tighten with pliers. Always trim AFTER the weave is secure.

Step 13: Change the Shape

Angle the base wires out 5-10 degrees at the point where the weave stops. Continue weaving, taking care to keep the new angles of the base wire. The weaving wire will get used up much faster as the space in between the base wires increases. Add more new 24g wire as needed.

Step 14: Weave, Trim, Add Wire

Keep weaving, adding and trimming 24g wire. When you have about 1 inch of angled weaving, test the sizing as follows.

Step 15: Shape the Bail

Put the straight part of your weaving through the donut hole. Bend the whole frame up where the angles start. The angled weaving will be the front of your pendant.

Step 16: Secure the Bail

Next, bend the bottom curve over the top of the donut with flat nose pliers. You now have a donut secured in wire weaving.

Step 17: Continue Weaving

Go back to weaving up the angled wires until your weaving goes ¾ inch above the top of the donut. Using your fingers, bend the angled part of the weaving slightly, away from the donut.

Step 18: Shape the Top of the Bail

Then bend the top of the angled weave over a mandrel, bail pliers or pen towards the back of the pendant. This will be your bail shape.

Keep the weave going. With the base wires angled in, weaving will get much harder. You will need to keep holding onto the 24g wire to keep it from slipping down. You will also need to keep pushing the weave back together again. Be patient – it will look great!

Step 19: Finishing the Bail

Weave until the woven section is in line with the top of the back of the donut.

Weave another ¼ inch.

Press the bottom of the weave closer to the pendant front.

Step 20: Starting the Decorative Part

Angle the base wires 90 degrees as shown.

Wind the 24g weaving wire around 1 of the 18g wires tightly. Trim the extra 24g wire.

Add a piece of 24g wire (about a foot and a half) to the other base wire and repeat.

Putting the mandrel back in the bail, press the top of the bail into a round shape.

Step 21: Fancy

Spiral the covered base wires in opposite directions with the round nose and flat nose pliers. Do this gently so you don't scratch your wires.

Step 22:

Bend one spiral over the front of the bail with flat nose pliers. Squeeze gently into place. Repeat with the other spiral.

Step 23: The Back

Make sure you have filed or tucked any sharp edges under.

Step 24: Done!

Finish with patina and sealer if you want.

Please post your pendants - I'd love to see them!

All the above praise and fantastic photos as well.
Thank You! I'm glad you liked it : )
<p>This is absolutely beautiful and a lovely treatment for the stone.</p><p>Are these bought as jewelry wire? I've used jewelry wire (silver coloured = stainless steel, very fine wire) in the past but was wondering if you could use any copper wire? I suppose the sizings might be difficult to obtain from electrical wire.</p><p>Thank you!</p>
Thanks!<br>I used bare copper jewelry wire. I use bare wire or it would not accept the patina. I have used hardware store copper wire at times, but I always check the purity (I think it should be 99% copper). I use dead soft wire for most of my projects, so I have to assess the softness of the wire as it won't be labeled for jewelry making. The other problem is getting the right gauge wire. It's hard to get wire in the 18-24g range at a hardware store. However, hardware stores are great for buying large gauge copper wire for sculpting and hammering. I buy my copper wire (actually all my wire) online by the pound. (I buy silver by the ounce ) Also, while I've heard of people using electrical wire, it will have all the issues mentioned above and be time-consuming to harvest the wire. If you do go this route, please let me know how it worked out.<br>I hope this answers your questions! Let me know if I can help with anything else : )
<p>Oh, WOW! What a beautiful design. I probably do not have the patience to make the entire pattern but I might try a smaller version for my glass 'stuff'. And I am considering making an instructable for casting the glass. I also like that you have the entire project on the opening page. </p>
Thank you so much! You can easily leave out the &quot;hook&quot; on the bottom to create a glue on bail (unless you're making glass rings and then this works great). Personally, I'm trying to figure out glass : ) I have a kiln... Favorite glass jewelry tips/instructables are greatly appreciated!
Gorgeous!! Bravo &amp; thank you
Thank You so much! And welcome to the instructables community!
<p>Beautiful :)</p>
Thank You! Let me know if you try it : )
<p>I will for sure</p>

About This Instructable

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Bio: Geeky artist with too many pets. Details & blog at: rhondachasedesign.com
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