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This project describes the design of a very low budget 3D Printer that is mainly built out of recycled electronic components. The result is a small format printer for less than 100$.

First of all, we learn how a generic CNC system works (by assembling and calibrating bearings, guides and threads) and then teach the machine to respond to g-code instructions. After that, we add a small plastic extruder and give an overview on plastic extrusion calibration, driver power tuning and other few operations that will bring the printer to live. Following this instructions you will get a small footprint 3D Printer that is built with about an 80% of recycled components, which gives it a great potential and helps to reduce the cost significantly.

On one side you get an introduction to machine building and digital fabrication and on the other side you get a small 3D Printer built out of reused electronic parts. This should help us to be more conscious about the big problems related with e-waste generation.

https://www.dosomething.org/facts/11-facts-about-e...

Step 1: Step 1: X, Y and Z axes

Needed components:

2 standard CD/DVD drives from an old PC.

1 Floppy disc drive.

We can get this components at no cost in a waste station in our neibourhood. We want to make sure that the motors we get from the Floppy disc drives are stepper motors and not DC motors.

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Step 2: Step 2: Preparing Motors

Components:

3 stepper motors from the CD/DVD drives

1 NEMA 17 stepper motor that we will have to buy. We use this type of motor for the plastic extruder where more power is needed to drive the plastic filament.

CNC electronics: RAMPS or RepRap Gen6/7. It is important than we can use the Sprinter/Marlin open firmware. In the present example we use RepRap Gen6 electronics but you can choose according to price and availability.

PC power supply.

Cables, female connectors, heat-shrink tube.

The first thing we want to do once we have the mentioned stepper motors is to solder the cables to them. In this case its 4 cables for which we should maintain the corresponding color sequence (described in the data sheet).

Data sheet for CD/DVD stepper motors: http://robocup.idi.ntnu.no/wiki/images/c/c6/PL15S...

Data sheet for the NEMA 17 stepper motor: http://www.pbclinear.com/Download/DataSheet/Stepp...

Step 3: Step 3: Preparing the Power Supply

Next step is to prepare the power supply in order to use it for our project. First of all we connect the two cables with each other (as indicated in the picture) to allow the direct power-up with the supply's switch. After that we select one yellow (12V) and one black cable (GND) to power the controller.

Step 4: Step 4: Arduino IDE

Now we are going to check the motors. For that purpose we need to download the Arduino IDE (a physical computing environment) that can be found at: http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software.

We need to download and install the Arduino 23 version of it.

After that we want to download the firmware. We have chosen Marlin which is already configured and can be downloaded under:

Marlin: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/67249288/e-Wa...

Once we have installed Arduino, we will connect our computer with the CNC-Controller Ramps/Sanguino/Gen6-7 with an USB cable, we will choose the corresponding serial port under Arduino IDE tools/serial port and we will select the controller type under tools/board (Ramps(Arduino Mega 2560), Sanguinololu/Gen6(Sanguino W/ ATmega644P – Sanguino has to be installed inside Arduino )).

Main parametres explanation, all of the cofiguration parameters are in the configuration.h file:

In the Arduino environment we will open the firmware that we already downloaded File/Sketchbook/Marlin and we will see some configuration parameters before we upload the firmware on our controller.

1) #define MOTHERBOARD 3 value, according to the actual hardware we are using (Ramps 1.3 or 1.4 = 33, Gen6 = 5, …).

2) Thermistor 7 value, RepRappro htoend uses Honeywell 100k.

3) PID this values makes our hot end more stable in terms of temperature.

4) Steps per unit, this is a very important point in order to configure any controler (step 9)

Step 5: Step 5: Printer Control Software

Printer control software: there are different freely available programs that will allow us to interact and control the printer (Pronterface, Repetier, …) we are using Repetier Host, which you can download from http://www.repetier.com/. It's easy to install and integrates a slicer. The slicer is a piece of software that generates a sequence of sections of the object we want to print, associates those sections with layers and generates g-code for the machine. Slicers can be configured through parameters like layer height, printing speed, infill, and others, that are important for the printing quality.

Usual slicer configurations can be found under following links:

Skeinforge configuration http://fabmetheus.crsndoo.com/wiki/index.php/Skeinforge

Slic3r configuration http://manual.slic3r.org/

In our case we have the Skeinforge profile configuret for the printer, that you can integrate in the reperier host software.

Skeinforge profile link: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/67249288/e-Waste/Skeinforge_profile_for_e_waste.zip

Step 6: Step 6: Wireing and Current Intensity Regulation

We are now ready to test the printer motors. Connect the computer and the machine controller using an USB cable (the motors should be connected to their corresponding drivers). Run Repetier Host and activate the connection between software and controller by choosing the corresponding serial port. If the connection was successful, you will be able to control the attached motors using the manual controls at the right.

In order to avoid an overheating of the motors during the regular use, now we will regulate the current intensity that every motor can get. This is an important operation in order to avoid motor overheating or step loss.

For this we will connect just one motor at a time and we will repeat the operation for every axis. For that we will need a multimeter attached in series between the power supply and the controller. The multimeter has to be set in Amp mode (current): see figure ?.

We then connect the controller to the computer again, power it and measure the current with the multimeter. When we manually activate the motor using the Repetier interface, the current should rise by a certain amount of milliamperes (which is the current that goes to the activated stepper motor). For every axis a slightly different current is needed depending on the job that every stepper has to carry out. You will have to adjust the small potentiometer on the stepper driver and set the current limitation for every axis according to the following reference values:

The board drives a current of approximately 80mA

We assign a current of 200mA to the X and Y-axis steppers.

400mA for the Z-axis because it needs more power to lift the carriage.

400mA for the extruder motor because it is of a bigger type.

Step 7: Step 7: Building the Machine Structure

In the following link you will find the necessary templates to laser cut the frame parts that are not recycled. We have used 5mm thick acrylic plates but you can use other materials, like wood, according to availability and price.

Laser Cut file: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/67249288/e-Waste/CAD_Frame/e-waste_laser_frame.dwg

The design of the frame makes it possible to build the machine without glue: all the parts are assembled using mechanical joints and screws. Before you laser-cut the frame parts, make sure to adapt the motor hole positions according to the CD/DVD parts you have recycled. You will have to measure and modify the holes in the CAD template.

Step 8: Step 8: calibrating the X, Y and Z axis

Although the downloaded Marlin firmware already has a standard calibration for the axis resolution, you will have to go through this step if you want a precise printer. Here you will tell the firmware the steps per millimeter that your machine actually needs. This value depends on the steps per revolution of your motor and on the size of the thread in the driving rod of your axes. By doing that we make sure that the movement of the machine actually corresponds to the distances in the g-code.

Knowing how to do that will allow you to build a CNC-machine of your own with independence of the component types and sizes.

In this case, X, Y and Z axes have the same threaded rods so the calibration values will be the same for them (but that might not be the your case if you use different components for the different axes).

We will have to calculate how many motor steps are needed to move the carriage 1mm. This depends on:

The pulley radius.

The steps per revolution of our Stepper motor.

The micro-stepping settings in the electronics (in our case 1/16, which means that for one step signal, only 1/16 of a step is performed, giving a higher precision to the system).

We set this value in the firmware (stepspermillimeter).

For the Z axis:

Using the Controller interface (Repetier) we tell the Z axis to move a certain distance and measure the actual displacement.

As an example, we tell it to move 10mm and measure a 37.4mm displacement.

Being N the number of steps defined in stepspermillimeter in the firmware (X=80, Y=80, Z=2560, EXTR=777.6).

N = 2560

N = N*10/37.4

The new value should be 682.67.

We repeat this for 3 or 4 times recompiling and reloading the firmware to the controller, so that we get a better precision.

In the present project we have not used end-stops in order to build a more affordable machine but they could be incorporated easily and the firmware is ready for them. Heaving end-stops makes homing the machine more easy. The lack of them will force us to bring the machine manually to the origin of the printing area.

We are ready for a first test, we can use a pen to test if the distances in the drawing are correct.

Step 9: Step 9: The Extruder

The filament drive is composed of a NEMA 17 stepper motor and an MK7/MK8-type drive gear that you will have to buy. You will also have to 3D-print the direct-drive extruder parts, which you can download here.

1) Extruder idle: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/67249288/e-Wa...

2) Extruder body: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/67249288/e-Wa...

3) Hot end Holder: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/67249288/e-Wa...

The filament, after being pulled into the extruder by the filament driver, is then fed to the heater chamber or hot end. Between filament drive and hot-end, the filament is guided inside a flexible teflon tube.

We will assemble the direct-drive as seen in the picture (Fig X.) attach the stepper motor to it and attach the whole to the main acrilic frame.

In order to calibrate the flow of plastic we have to fit a piece of the plastic filament and mesure a distance (for example 100mm), put a piece of tape in this. Then go to Repetier Software and click extrude 100mm, mesure the real distance and repeat the Step 9 (operation).

Step 10: Step 10: First Extrusion

Now the machine should be ready for the first test. Our extruder uses 1.75mm plastic filament which is easier to extrude and more flexible than the 3mm diameter standard. This will require less power to drive our small machine than the 3mm filament would. We will be using PLA plastic which is a bio-plastic and has some advantages compared to ABS: it melts at lower temperature, it attaches easily to the printing bed and it has very little retraction.

Now, in Repetier Host, we want to activate the slicing profiles that are available for the Skeinforge slicer. You can download some profiles from the following link.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/67249288/e-Was...

We want to start printing a small calibration cube (10x10x10mm) because it will print very fast and we will be able to detect configuration problems and motor step loss by checking the actual size of the printed cube.

So, to start printing, open an STL model and slice it using a standard profile (or one you downloaded) with the Skeinforge slicer: we will see a representation of the sliced object and the corresponding g-code. We will preheat the extruder, and when it has reached the plastic fusion temperature (190-210C depending on the plastic brand) extrude some material (press extrude) to see if the hot-end and the filament drive are working properly.

We bring the extrusion head to the origin coordinates (x=0, y=0, z=0) taking care that the head is as close as possible to the bed without touching it (take a paper as separator). That will be the home position for the extrusion head. From there we can start printing.


Step 11:

<p>I finally got around building one, be it a bit modified as I don't have access to either a laser cutter or a 3D printer for the extruder parts (okay, I DO have access to a 3D printer if I really want but thats not the point) so I had to hack my way through the build. But it works, and it works reasonably well actually. It set me back only $40,- on electronics, hotend and bowden tube!</p>
<p>Well Done, Could you please explain the calibration you have done for CD drive stepper motors ? what values did you use? </p><p>Thanks heaps </p>
Hi Hossein, I followed the procedure of this instructables, so I went with the default Marlin settings, moved 1cm and measured. Then calculated the difference between what should have been and what was actually moved, changed the steps_per_mm settings accordingly and repeated the process until happy. Then printed a test cube 10x10x10mm and measured. Changed the steps_per_mm again to fine adjust. It's no rocket science but you'll have to take a bit of time for this.
<p>Hello Again, I have a problem, My DVD stepper motors getting too hot, it reaches 80C, I reduce the voltage using the potentiometer on stepper driver to the minimum possible but still motors getting hot. </p><p>Please advise</p>
<p>There is no real solution for that, we are driving them way over their limits.</p><p>You could try and install cooling fins and have a fan blow over your printer (which is a good idea anyways for your print too) but yeah, they will heat up alarmingly.</p><p>You can also try and reduce the voltage fed to the board, make it 10V instead of 12V. No idea if that works at all, though.</p>
Just FYI, I know as an electrician that stepping down the voltage would increase resistance and therefore increase the temperature but however, increasing the voltage and therefore lowering the temperature would also decrease the resistance on all affected parts and increase risk of circuits arcing to one another which could possible fry some micro electronics. Just be careful when increasing or decreasing ?
<p>Actually, you are a little wrong here. You refer to Ohm's Law (U=I*R) and that is correct, however since the resistance is a constant (a characteristic of the motor) if you decrease voltage you also decrease the current running through the motor and that in turn decreases the temperature of the motor - and the power the motor can exert (since P=I^2*R). Increasing voltage would increase the temperature of the motor - quite rapidly, actually, since it increases exponentially. THAT would definately fry your electronics indeed.</p><p>So yeah, always be careful tinkering with the settings - but lowering the voltage is the safe side of things here.</p>
<p>Thanks a lot, I will do what you said. :) </p>
Man how did you do it what kind of knowledge does it take
<p>It's not that hard, I used the information from this instructable which is - be it somewhat unstructured - largely complete and just replaced all laser cut and 3D printed parts with hand-cut and crafted items. In terms of building, you should be familiar with saws, plywood, wood glue, bolts and nuts, and some basic metalworking skills.</p><p>In terms of getting it to work - the internet is your friend, starting with the Instructables website. Stepper motors, Arduino and RAMPS / Marlin are worlds on their own and you should read up on that so you have at least an idea of what you are doing. You don't need superduper Arduino programming skillz but you should be able to read the configuration.h file and modify the various items to your printer. You also need to understand the way steppers work to be able to troubleshoot any issues with them.</p><p>Other than that, only a little perseverance and motivation is needed ;-)</p>
<p>Hi, what a dimensions you use for &quot;Step 7: Building the Machine Structure&quot;? Can't find necessary scale in cad-file. 10:1 is too big. Pls, help.</p>
I honestly don't know. I printed it out on (I believe) A3 paper and stuck that together. I printed out two versions but that was over a year ago and I didn't bother documenting anything... So it was pretty much empirical for me.
<p>hey what psu did you use? like wattage wise</p>
Hi, since this printer only has very small steppers and no heated bed, pretty much any ATX power supply is already overkill so I just picked one off my pile of cr##. I think you could get away with, like, 12V/5A or so...
<p>Could you tell me or send PM with the list of things you used? Everyone says something different. Yours looks perfect.</p>
Hi, I don't really have a complete parts list as I just made it up as I went - but in short I used:<br>-Arduino Mega + RAMPS 1.4 kit including stepper drivers<br>-E3D-hotend knockoff complete kit<br>-Bowden PTFE tube<br>-Pneufittings (this all came from Aliexpress and Banggood, search for the best price with reasonable reviews)<br><br>-Two DVD-drives with &quot;large&quot; steppers (I first had one drive with a stepper of less than a cm dia, which was blatantly underpowered)<br>-One floppy drive<br>-A large stepper from an old discarded printer, gear &quot;modified&quot; with a small file for better grip<br>-A bit of polycarbonate as build bed<br>-A bit of veroboard to act as spacer between DVD-drive carriage and build bed<br>-A computer PSU<br>-Some plywood for the frame and misc.<br>-Some aluminium extruded profiles from the hardware store<br>-A bit of brass I had on hand, drilled and grooved, for the idler pulley<br>-Misc bolts and nuts, mostly M3, M4, M5, as needed to mount whatever you want to mount<br>-Some electrical wires from the bits-box and Aliexpress (for the 4-pin-connectors of the steppers).
<p>-A large stepper from an old discarded printer, gear &quot;modified&quot; with a small file for better grip.</p><p>Is this for the extruder? If so, how do I determine if a given stepper motor will be a good replacement for NEMA 17?<br><br>Thanks in advance for the answer :D</p>
That's indeed for the extruder. But honestly, I really don' t know how to determine if a stepper is suitable or not - I just went with the largest stepper with metal gear I could find and hoped for the best.
<p>I still dont know what completes a whole hotend kit. What i've took note so far is:</p><p>- JHead E3D V5 1.75 mm - 0.4 mm Bowden Extruder with 100K thermistor</p><p>- Aluminum Heat Block E3D V6 J-head MK7/MK8</p><p>- Some brass nozzle extruder with different sizes</p><p>- 3D Printer Cooling Fan</p><p>- Pneumatic Connectors PC4-01 1.75 mm</p><p>- PTFE Tube Bowden Extrude 1.75 mm</p><p>Is this what completes the set?</p><p>And for the bolts and nuts, where you bought them? Also at ali?</p><p>If you purchased the whole hotend kit in one item, could you link me that? </p><p>Thanks a lot!</p>
<p>The kit I used consisted of the alu heat block, alu cooler body, heat break, nozzle, pneumatic coupler, thermistor and heater cardridge. I completed it with a small computer fan I already had, some aluminum profiles to create the mount and a PTFE bowden tube 1.75mm including two connectors (it was a little set).</p><p>So what I BOUGHT was:</p><p>-The Jhead E3D kit</p><p>-The Bowden tube with fitting pneumatic connectors</p><p>If I was to order it today, I would order this:</p><p><a href="http://nl.aliexpress.com/item/E3D-V6-3D-Printer-J-head-Hotend-with-Single-Cooling-Fan-for-1-75mm-3-0mm/32336514653.html?detailNewVersion=&spm=2114.13010608.0.92.LdyoTd" rel="nofollow">http://nl.aliexpress.com/item/E3D-V6-3D-Printer-J-...</a> (received it a week ago, looks sweet - sweeter than what's on my eWaste printer actually)</p><p><a href="http://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1M-3D-Printer-PTFE-Tube-for-Long-distance-3D-Printer-J-head-Hotend-for-1-75mm/32639908963.html?isOrigTitle=true" rel="nofollow">http://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1M-3D-Printer-PTFE-T...</a></p><p>That should do the whole trick - apart from mounting it and the extruder stepper assembly of course, which goes on the other end of the tube.</p><p>Nuts and bolts can be bought at any decent hardware store, I collected a lot of them over time and store them in a drawer cabinet so I always have some at hand.</p>
<p>Hey man, sorry for the late reply.</p><p>I think that for the heat part this should do.</p><p>Do you think that this is enough for the extruder stepper assembly?</p><p>This extruder kit + the nema17:</p><p><a href="http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-MK8-extruder-aluminum-block-DIY-kit-Makerbot-dedicated-single-nozzle-extrusion-head-aluminum-block/32351220044.html?spm=2114.13010208.99999999.270.yVkyhK" rel="nofollow">http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-MK8-e...</a></p><p><a href="http://www.aliexpress.com/item/freeshipping-to-any-Country-4-lead-Nema17-Stepper-Motor-42-motor-NEMA-17-motor-42BYGH-1/969326211.html?spm=2114.13010308.0.141.UUQn7h" rel="nofollow">http://www.aliexpress.com/item/freeshipping-to-any...</a></p>
<p>I think that should do, I ordered this for <br>an other build I hope to get started on somewhere this fall or so, it <br>looks prettyh similar be it already with stepper and assembled: </p><p><a href="http://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Arrival-High-Quality-3D-Printer-Aluminum-Extruder-Kit-NEMA-17-Stepper-Motor-1-75mm-1/32607807445.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.126.HM5C9g" rel="nofollow">http://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Arrival-High-Qu...</a></p><p>Bear<br> in mind that for both ordered extruder kits you will need M6 thread <br>size pneumatic fittings - they don't come with the kit. </p><p><a href="http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs-lot-PC4-M6-Pneumatic-Straight-Fitting-Connector-for-4mm-OD-tubing-M6-6mm-Reprap-3D/32463992479.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.58.HM5C9g" rel="nofollow">http://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs-lot-PC4-M6-Pne...</a></p><p>And also you will need something to mount it with, a bracket is not supplied.</p>
<p>The extruder kit has some kind of variations (Left Handed, Right Handed, ...) i have no idea what is the difference (probably the side the filament is extruded). I don't know if makes a difference in this build.</p><p>The tube i'm thinking about buying is this <a href="http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1M-3D-Printer-PTFE-Tube-for-Long-distance-3D-Printer-J-head-Hotend-for-1-75mm/32596468709.html?spm=2114.13010208.99999999.270.aQqFGA" rel="nofollow">http://www.aliexpress.com/item/1M-3D-Printer-PTFE-...</a> it comes with the pneumatic connectors. Do you think that this is M6 at the end? I'm afraid of buying the PTFE tube and Pneumatic with different sizes, so i looked at this, that is already there.</p><p>You mean like a bracket to hold the extruder to the case?</p>
<p>The orientation of the extruder does make a difference when you are replacing an extruder or if you have a specific location in mind where to put it. Also it is a matter of preference, I think. For this build, choose the orientation that is going to give you the shortest possible bowden tube without overdoing it - it actually works as a spring counteracting the - weak - DVDRom steppers.</p><p>You do indeed need to buy or fabricate a bracket to mount the extruder to the case.</p><p>The connectors to that bowdentube are NOT M6 - they are probably 1/2&quot; or so. It's the thread size that goes into the hotend - at least, the hotend I used on my printer. Different seller means different fabrication can mean different thread size. Keep an eye out for these things when ordering from China, I misordered stuff too in some occasions. Luckily the pricing is such that you can afford these kinds of mistakes every now and then, but still....</p>
<p>What i have bought so far (hope this also can help other people):</p><p>-Arduino Mega2560 REV3</p><p>-1.8m USB 2.0 cable</p><p>-RAMPS 1.4</p><p>-LCD 12864 Control Panel for RAMPS 1.4</p><p>-Nema17 Stepper Motor (17HS4401)</p><p>-5pcs DRV8825 Stepper Motor Driver</p><p>-E3D V6 3D Print J-head hotend (with fan, aluminum block, 100K thermistor)</p><p>-10pcs 100K ohm thermistors (just to be safe, if some burns)</p><p>-5 nozzles with 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.8mm for V6 1.75 hotend</p><p>-10pcs Steel Bearings</p><p>-1m PTFE Tube with ID 2mm and OD 4mm for 1.75 filament</p><p>-4pcs OD 4mm M6 pneumatic connectors</p><p>-MK8 heat sink 40x40x11mm</p><p>-Cooling Fan 40x40x10mm 12V</p><p>-5pcs 4pin Female to Female jumper wire</p><p>-2m of 4pin wires</p><p>Missing (waiting to choose arm direction):</p><p>-MK8 Aluminum Block for the extruder (containing spring, MK8 screw, bearing, etc.)</p><p>Waste collected:</p><p>-2 DVD-Drives with step motors</p><p>-1 Power Suply</p><p>Need:</p><p>-1 Flopy Drive</p><p>-Polycarbonate for a bed (or other material)</p><p>-Case (probably i'll do some with MDF or plywood)</p><p>-Nuts, bolts, etc (i'll buy that at a local shop, as you told me).</p><p>Again, thanks a lot for helping me through this process!!</p>
<p>What do you need the steel bearings for??? The DVD drives already have their own smooth rods and bearings, no need to change a working assembly. I just took the entire assembly that holds stepper, laser carriage and smooth rods and mounted that to the frame of the printer.</p>
I'm thinking about making some rolls to put the filament coil (?) on top, so it can spin as the filament is pulled by the extruder. How you did yours?
<p>Ahhh..., good call. </p><p>My filament didn't actually come on a roll, as I only have some demo pieces which were just loose. </p><p>My next build will have a separate spool holder like you mention, only with just four bearings and some washers as flanges. It is actually on Thingiverse: </p><p>http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:46016</p>
<p>Yeah!! That's exactly they way i was thinking :O</p><p>Awesome!! Will save this for later! /o/</p>
<p>So, for this particular build. Which direction should i choose? I'm still clueless where each thing will be placed.</p><p>Hmm, so probably with a few metal plates a can do it.</p><p>Yeah, I've chosen a different type of ptfe tubes and connectors now with M6.</p><p>The price indeed is not a big problem. The thing is that those things from China take at least 3 months to arrive. So i'm worried about making mistakes and have to wait another 3 months..</p>
<p>I think the direction doesn't matter that much really, I chose to build my extruder so that it puts out the filament to the left of the printer, if watched from the front of the printer - and the tightening arm points slightly downward. But then again I just hacked my own extruder together, so ymmv. </p>
<p>Could you tell us how did you replace the 3D printed extruder ? i don't have access to a 3D printer at all personnally and this project made me so excited ! Thanks anyway.</p>
You can see a little in the photos of the back of the printer: I had a stepper motor from an old printer with the mounting plate still attached. I used this mounting plate and some aluminium extrusion profiles to build up the structure for the bowden tube and the spring spanner for the idler pulley lever.<br>The idler pulley is made from a piece of brass in which I drilled a hole and made a little groove, it spins around a bolt in the idler pulley lever which is a U-shaped aluminium profile in itself, and also hinges around a (bigger) bolt attached to the mounting plate. <br>The extrusion gear is simply the gear that was already on the motor, filed sharp with a small triangular shape file for grips.<br><br>My advise would be to look at the pictures of a &quot;real&quot; extruder (examples enough on Aliexpress and Banggood), then check what you have and how you can mimick the design. Thats what I did; just bodged it together with what I had on hand...
<p>Awesome, man!</p>
<p>You mentioned about 4 motors but in schematic you shown 5. why 2 motors in z-axis? </p>
It mentions printing some parts, will I need to already own a 3d printer in order to build this?
i have some question, you said that the print volume was small (10x10x10mm), is it possible to make a bigger print volume with a same part???? thank you
<p>My build volume is 37x37x14mm, 10x10x10mm was the test cube I printed because the 20x20x20mm was too big ;-)</p><p>If you want to go bigger, you'd need other parts, which brings you in a totally different game; you'd have to design your own sliders and drive gear instead of relying on the DVD players manufacturer to have that done for you. It will be harder, you will have to think and design a lot more yourself and it will probably be more expensive since you need beefier steppers etc.</p>
umm.......okey thanks, but do you have some 3d printed slider and the frame??? maybe you can help me?
<p>Hi, no. I didn't 3D-print anything for this printer (or for any printer for that matter). If you really intend to build something other than a very small printer built from DVD- and Floppy drives, this is really the wrong instructable for you. </p><p>There are plenty other instructables out there, though, for DIY 3D-printers. You should be able to combine the information provided here and in the other instructables (or anywhere on the internet, for that matter) to build your own, larger, printer.</p>
<p>Looking at different parts and I have a few questions. Does it matter if my power supply has the +4 or can it work with just a 20 pin? Also, any ideas as to what hot end is the hot end holder designed for? Thanks for any responses!</p>
<p>The 20-pin also carries +12V I believe and the current this little printer draws is not that much so you can use the wires from the 20-pin just fine.</p>
<p>Thanks! Glad to know I don't need to go searching! I look forward to having my own printer here at home!</p>
<p>I'm having trouble with this. Mostly in the testing of the motors. They're all very inconsistent. In that they don't really follow commands well in the manual control mode. They kind of jerk back and forth, but not consistently in one direction. And I've gone through four cd rom drives at this point, and they've all given me that result. Does anyone know if there's adjustments I need to make to the firmware? The connections are all giving appropriate voltages, so it doesn't seem to be a hardware issue.</p>
<p>To clarify, it does the same things with the NEMA 17 motor. When I put on another version of Marlin, the NEMA 17 can run just fine on every motor slot, so I'm really sure the controller is fine. Am I just having really terrible luck with the cd rom and floppy drive motors?</p>
<p>I think because your NEMA 17 is working fine with al stepper drivers, it might be a problem with CD drive stepper motor wiring. you need to consider phases. </p>
<p>Looks promising until step 9.</p><p>&quot;You will also have to 3D-print the direct-drive extruder parts...&quot;</p><p>Oh. :(</p><p>If someone said they can hack around needing it then I probably can too, but needing another 3D printer for bootstrapping the build is not cool.</p><p>Great idea and seems to work well for people though.</p>
<p>Look at my comments, I bodged an extruder together without printed parts so yes you can do it - or just buy a ready-made extruder from our Chinese friends (but that will obviously add to the costs).</p>
Hello! here is a picture of mine. After I started I get carried away ;-) so, it is almost finished, but still having trouble with the z axis. While tuning the Driver the motor runs. But when the pololu lose contact with the screw driver it stops. Any ideas? Thanks Guys!!
<p>What parts did you use to get the extra x and y length? I would like to do something similar, but have no idea what I need. Thanks!</p>

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