Instructables

Etching large metal items

Featured

Alright first ible, here we go. Used this for my second: http://www.instructables.com/id/Gorget-neck-armour-neck-armor/

Ok so small update, although I got voted up to 4th position the judges didn't find my ible good/relative enough to pass the first round:(, but I still want to thank everyone who voted for my ible!!


I wanted to etch an image onto my neckarmour(gorget) but i found no instructable on how to etch larger metal pieces, just a load on etching smaller pieces(mostly knives). Considering the size of this etching and the size of the metal, it would take too long to do by hand(the q-tip method) and too large to do with the submerged method, so i flipped the submerged method over and came up with this:

 
Remove these adsRemove these ads by Signing Up

Step 1: Tools and materials

A simple list of materials, if you dont have these items just improvise.

your metal piece
a piece of waste metal
an adaptor / 9v battery (i used a 12.5v adaptor)
few pieces of copper wire
bag of tealights / paraffin candles (i used about 10, it depends on the size of your design)
nailpolish (doesnt matter what colour, wouldn't go for metal colour :P)
nailpolish remover / acetone
exacto knife / hobby knife
lighter
vinegar
salt
lots of tissues

*optional items*
q-tips
A4 sticker paper
pen / pencil
fan
bowl

Step 2: Preparation and nailpolish

Ok so you got your large metal piece ready to etch, lets begin.
First find or create a nice design you want to put on your piece. print and cut it out with about 0.5cm to spare on the edges.
Second you will need to clean the metal with some degreaser.
Third apply a thick coat of nailpolish the size of your design and add about 2 inches / 5cm to all sides.
now lets just wait till it dries and watch some lego starwars:P
1-40 of 49Next »
ElliotT38 hours ago

There is another way to do etching without electricity.

Take one part muriatic acid and add it to two parts 3% hydrogen peroxide. Always add acid to water-based solutions not the other way around otherwise you risk a runaway thermodynamic reaction. Eg, put two cups peroxide into a _plastic_ bucket with a lid. Add one cup of muriatic acid to the peroxide... slowly.

Submerge your work piece in this solution.

Here's the best part, you can re-use this etchant over and over again by merely adding small quantities of both acid and peroxide. It will produce very deep and crisp etchings and you need to watch them carefully.

I voted for you...well done!

knutknackebröd (author)  bricabracwizard2 months ago

thank you :)

Blackcloud1613 months ago

Awesome!

Now I just have to sneak nail polish from the wife....

Question: would using clay work as a dam?

VOTED!!!

Blu tac would work and it doesn't dry out. Great instructable and great lateral thinking!

knutknackebröd (author)  Blackcloud1613 months ago

good point, I dont know. I guess it would as long as its not a clay that reacts with acid (maybe some synthetic clays do I dont know)

thanks for the vote!

Polymer clay reacts to alcohol and solvents, but I don't think vinegar and water would effect it. Can't be 100% sure, but I think it would work well for this setup.

Just asked SWMBO about clay as she's a ceramics artist. She reckons that clay might work for a while but if you give it a chance to dry out it will start to shrink and crack. Not sure about polymer clays, they might react with the etching mix.

knutknackebröd (author)  Esque3 months ago

clay would work alot better than candles. i just used the resources available to me. thanks for the comment!

I think using candles and melted wax is a genius idea to be honest!

knutknackebröd (author)  Esque3 months ago

what the heck is SWMBO? cheers!

She Who Must Be Obeyed LOL!!

Eldalote3 months ago

Great instructable! :)

knutknackebröd (author)  Eldalote3 months ago

thank you! :)

benwade3 months ago

Great 'ible, but I was wondering if using a thin coat of melted wax, instead of nail polish, would work? It would be easier to scrape away, but harder to be certain you removed all of it from the etchable surface. There must be something easier and faster to use than nail polish.Thinking caps anyone?

zackass1 benwade3 months ago

I use cheap chloride rubber paint mix 50/50 with solvent. It easy stick to metal, protect surface and it's easy to remove with needle, toothpick or whatever tool you use.

knutknackebröd (author)  zackass13 months ago

ok nice method, i used candles because thats what was available for me. have you tried the paint? I would love to see your results because ill be etching my next project;)

It's made with chloride rubber paint but I etch it with ferric chloride not electro etching.

IMG_20130720_142130.jpg
knutknackebröd (author)  zackass13 months ago

wow really nice how long did it take to carve the patern? thanks for the comment

few hours of carving and about half hour of etching

Colored wax?

knutknackebröd (author)  snoopindaweb3 months ago

i find that wax flakes off to quickly but if your design isn't too intricate i think wax might work. just be carefull not to get any wax on your etching surfaces. thnx for the comment

Not exactly the same methodology, but I think this would be faster and more accurate for intricate designs. Print a negative of your design with a laser printer and use heat to transfer it to the metal - if the work-piece is totally flat then use a clothes iron, if curved you might need some relief cuts in the paper to get it to lay flat and then tape it in place and use a heatgun or torch to heat the backside of the work-piece, and then maybe some pressure on the frontside with a thick towel... The transferred toner will protect the areas you don't want etched. After etching remove the toner with steel wool, fine sandpaper, SOYsolv or maybe Goo Gone for non-abrasive removal - I've never used this method, but I've seen other Instructibles that do, as well as many tutorials on the web.
http://www.instructables.com/id/A-Stainless-Steel-...

Another option in the case where you have a stencil (or a very steady/artistic hand), a Sharpie pen will protect from etching as well - and they come in several sizes from ultra fine to giant. Remove the ink with rubbing alcohol. I've used this method to make simple PCB's before. Not my Instructible - http://www.instructables.com/id/Making-a-Hand-Draw...

Pretty much anything that will make a waterproof seal should work... Spray paint and stencil, paint thinner to remove.

Props to the author for innovative use of candles. I'll file that one away for future use.

knutknackebröd (author)  CommandoJoe3 months ago

the main point of diy is reaching your goal with the materials you have. if you have the option of more high tech solutions use them! i tried to make this project with the resources i have and i think anybody has at home. thanks for the comment!

knutknackebröd (author)  benwade3 months ago

another method ive seen is electrical tape. the main reason i used nail polish is that it sticks to the metal way better than something like wax. also any wax that is left(even a really thin coat) would create lumps in your etch. thanks for your comment!

Gosumdoji3 months ago

Q: In this step (4) how did you remove the nail polish from the larger areas without scratching the metal underneath?

knutknackebröd (author)  Gosumdoji3 months ago

*sidenote* i tried to do the large surfaces with a q-tip with acetone, DON'T DO THIS!!! it screwed up some of my design..... just stick with the hobby knife, unless you find a better way, if so post it right here!

knutknackebröd (author)  Gosumdoji3 months ago

I just scratched it away with a hobby knife (it was rather blunt). the point is the current follows the path of least resistance, so any edges that are created by scratching are etched away faster. thanks for your question, hope it helped!

Steelsmith13 months ago

Very nice,

The q-tip is a good idea to brush off the sludge that forms to get a crisp etch. Traditionally used is a feather as a brush.

knutknackebröd (author)  Steelsmith13 months ago

ah ok cool, I just wanted to make sure the bubbles didn't create bumps in my etch;) thanks for the comment

swampT3 months ago

It looks great.

What was the measurements of vinegar and salt mix?

knutknackebröd (author)  swampT3 months ago

pffff no idea sorry, I just kept putting in salt untill it stopped dissolving. thanks for the comment and hope it helped!

Esque3 months ago

I've not seen this idea before for doing large pieces, thanks for doing the 'ible

knutknackebröd (author)  Esque3 months ago

thanks for the comment! yes, that was the main reason I made this ible;)

mdeblasi13 months ago

For what it's worth, when you get a scratch do not underestimate the power of a little burnishing to remove even deep scratches from metal.
Even the back of a teaspoon or the rounded end of a butter knife handle can do the trick nicely.

knutknackebröd (author)  mdeblasi13 months ago

yes, you can restore any scratch but is it really worth the effort if just a little caution keeps your hard work safe;) thanks for the comment!

snoopindaweb3 months ago

No super caustic acid like for glass, gOOd..

P.S. And no lazir stuff, just "Working Man's" materials, Thank You.

knutknackebröd (author)  snoopindaweb3 months ago

yes thats why i like this method just home supplies needed! just keep the chlorine gas in mind though! thanks for the comment

submark3 months ago

Modeling clay can be used as the dam. This material is made from waxes, oils, and finely ground clay powder. It and be modeled (duh) into any shape and afterward pulled off and reused. Available where ever kids crafts supplies are sold. I have found it in Fred Meyer (kroger) supermarkets in the crafts section.

knutknackebröd (author)  submark3 months ago

good point, the main reason i used candles is because i had them at home ready to use. and i wasn't sure wich clay(if any) would react with metal/acids/salt. thanks for your comment!

1-40 of 49Next »