Alright first ible, here we go. Used this for my second: https://www.instructables.com/id/Gorget-neck-armour-neck-armor/

Ok so small update, although I got voted up to 4th position the judges didn't find my ible good/relative enough to pass the first round:(, but I still want to thank everyone who voted for my ible!!

I wanted to etch an image onto my neckarmour(gorget) but i found no instructable on how to etch larger metal pieces, just a load on etching smaller pieces(mostly knives). Considering the size of this etching and the size of the metal, it would take too long to do by hand(the q-tip method) and too large to do with the submerged method, so i flipped the submerged method over and came up with this:

Step 1: Tools and Materials

A simple list of materials, if you dont have these items just improvise.

your metal piece
a piece of waste metal
an adaptor / 9v battery (i used a 12.5v adaptor)
few pieces of copper wire
bag of tealights / paraffin candles (i used about 10, it depends on the size of your design)
nailpolish (doesnt matter what colour, wouldn't go for metal colour :P)
nailpolish remover / acetone
exacto knife / hobby knife
lots of tissues

*optional items*
A4 sticker paper
pen / pencil
<p>Additionally, if you are using the battery method you can get multiple batteries, hook them up in a series or parallel to increase the voltage or amperage respectfully, and etch much quicker. I tried it both ways and didn't see any particular advantage in one over the other, but it certainly was quicker than a single battery. I recently did a battery etch with 4 9V batteries hooked up in parallel and was pleased with both the speed and efficiency given the size. I would also recommend using a pair of plier and a cotton ball rather than a Q-Tip and alligator clips as the coverage is much better. That said, you need to be very careful hooking up batteries in a series or parallel; not only could you easily short your batteries by being clumsy, this is also wandering into voltages that are dangerous (assuming I did that 4 9V battery setup in a series that would be effectively a 36V battery). If you are going to be etching more than occasionally it is probably worth it to simply buy a portable jump starter/battery charger since you can set the voltage and amperage, not to mention that it doesn't run out of power like the batteries.</p>
<p>the main reasons i opted for a transformer rather than batteries is that batteries tend to run out quite quickly when doing larger pieces and have a tendency to explode / leak if messed with too much. </p>
<p>Wouldn't it be simpler to create a border around the area to be etched with putt, cut the bottom off of a sufficiently large disposable tupperware, and push it into the putty to make a watertight seal?</p>
<p>As mentioned in a previous comment, the main reason why I used this method rather than clay / putty is simply that I made due with the stuff I had lying around. Using a disposable container to lower the amount of clay needed is a nifty idea.</p><p>thanks for the comment.</p><p>cheers, knut</p>
I attempted the q tip method on a rather large piece of metal but the etch was far too shallow. All I did to make a stencil was carve it into a sheet of vinyl. Would the vinyl be enough to resist the electric current and the etching solution if I used this method.
<p>Honestly I dont know, I've never worked with vinyl. However, all the stencil needs to do is keep the water / acid from reaching the metal, Try out a small test piece with some vinyl scraps and you'll know;) cheers, knut</p>
Very cool. I've wanted to etch for a while, but I thought it had to be all that dangerous acid stuff. thanks I've got some stuff to do....
<p>Do keep in mind this does produce some nasty stuff of its own, so keep it well ventilated.</p>
<p>For etching steel, try using ferrous sulphate (iron (II) sulphate) or ammonium ferrous sulphate solutions, instead of salt and vinegar. For copper and brass, use copper sulphate. for zinc, use zinc sulphate. </p><p>There are several benefits...</p><p>1) No chlorine gas (which is nasty stuff)</p><p>2) No gas of any kind, so you don't get bubbles preventing your electrolyte solution from making contact with your piece.</p><p>3) The electrolyte solution doesn't turn caustic with use.</p><p>4) The solution doesn't get used up, so you can use it over and over again. You etch the cathode, plate the anode and the solution remains intact - it's just a carrier for the metal ions, as long as the metal matches the sulphate (copper for copper, iron for iron, zinc for zinc).</p><p>5) Using salt (NaCl), you can produce some pretty nasty by-product salts (ferric chloride, chromium chloride); matching metal to sulphate limits the productions of these toxic salts. You also don't get any way near as much precipitate (sludge) from using sulphates over salt.</p>
<p>The whole point was to do this with stuff I had lying around. As for the nasty byproducts, do the etching outside to prevent any gas buildup and on the small scale the production of the other nasty stuff is negligible.</p>
<p>How deep does it etch?</p>
<p>depends on how long you leave it running, make sure to try a test piece!</p>
<p>you say to use an adaptor but the adapter only has one cable for power where is the negative connected to?</p>
<p>as stated in the ible, connect the positive to the etch piece and the negative to a scrap piece</p>
<p>Thanks for this, I had no idea you could use vinegar and salt. I usually use distilled water then mix in salt until it can no longer dissolve. </p><p>Beautiful etching.</p>
<p>thank you, and yes you can use water but the acidity in vinegar helps a bit.</p>
<p>Any pictures on how the wires are connected tothe power adaptor?</p>
<p>hi im using your method but was wondering would play doh work instead of candles</p>
I think this has been asked before but yes, as long as it doesn't react with the metal / etching solution any moldable &quot;clay&quot; could be used.<br>to make sure just take a small piece of the same metal sand it down a bit and put some play doh on it, likewise test some more playdoh by putting it into a bowl of your etching solution. if nothing hapens to either you're good to go! hope this answers your question. cheers, knut
<p>Used your instructable to edge a lock i made using <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Viking-Era-800-1050-Padlock/" rel="nofollow">this</a> instructable. I only made some mistakes during the etching. Because I didn't clean the metal good enough the nail polish loosened during etching. Therefore I needed to stop early, so the etch is barely visible.</p><p>I do have an improvement for this method (for flat surfaces). Print your design on a sticker. Place the sticker on the metal and cut the design. Remove the parts you don't want to etch. Add the nail polish and remove the sticker from under the nail polish when it's almost hardened.</p>
Good point putting the nailpolish on top of the sticker, however make sure your sticker doesnt leave any residue to mess up your etch. Thanks for the comment!
<p>There is another way to do etching without electricity. </p><p>Take one part muriatic acid and add it to two parts 3% hydrogen peroxide. Always add acid to water-based solutions not the other way around otherwise you risk a runaway thermodynamic reaction. Eg, put two cups peroxide into a _plastic_ bucket with a lid. Add one cup of muriatic acid to the peroxide... slowly. </p><p>Submerge your work piece in this solution. </p><p>Here's the best part, you can re-use this etchant over and over again by merely adding small quantities of both acid and peroxide. It will produce very deep and crisp etchings and you need to watch them carefully. </p>
<p>cool, yeah just use whatever is available.I just chose this method because i had everything right here at home so no need to go shopping;) thanks for the comment!</p>
<p>I voted for you...well done!</p>
<p>thank you :)</p>
<p>Awesome! </p><p>Now I just have to sneak nail polish from the wife....</p><p>Question: would using clay work as a dam? </p><p>VOTED!!!</p>
<p>Blu tac would work and it doesn't dry out. Great instructable and great lateral thinking!</p>
<p>good point, I dont know. I guess it would as long as its not a clay that reacts with acid (maybe some synthetic clays do I dont know)</p><p>thanks for the vote!</p>
<p>Polymer clay reacts to alcohol and solvents, but I don't think vinegar and water would effect it. Can't be 100% sure, but I think it would work well for this setup.</p>
<p>Just asked SWMBO about clay as she's a ceramics artist. She reckons that clay might work for a while but if you give it a chance to dry out it will start to shrink and crack. Not sure about polymer clays, they might react with the etching mix.</p>
<p>clay would work alot better than candles. i just used the resources available to me. thanks for the comment!</p>
<p>I think using candles and melted wax is a genius idea to be honest!</p>
<p>what the heck is SWMBO? cheers!</p>
<p>She Who Must Be Obeyed LOL!!</p>
<p>Great instructable! :) </p>
<p>thank you! :)</p>
<p>Great 'ible, but I was wondering if using a thin coat of melted wax, instead of nail polish, would work? It would be easier to scrape away, but harder to be certain you removed all of it from the etchable surface. There must be something easier and faster to use than nail polish.Thinking caps anyone?</p>
<p>I use cheap chloride rubber paint mix 50/50 with solvent. It easy stick to metal, protect surface and it's easy to remove with needle, toothpick or whatever tool you use.</p>
<p>ok nice method, i used candles because thats what was available for me. have you tried the paint? I would love to see your results because ill be etching my next project;)</p>
<p>It's made with chloride rubber paint but I etch it with ferric chloride not electro etching.</p>
<p>wow really nice how long did it take to carve the patern? thanks for the comment</p>
<p>few hours of carving and about half hour of etching</p>
<p>Colored wax?</p>
<p>i find that wax flakes off to quickly but if your design isn't too intricate i think wax might work. just be carefull not to get any wax on your etching surfaces. thnx for the comment</p>
<p>Not exactly the same methodology, but I think this would be faster and more accurate for intricate designs. Print a negative of your design with a laser printer and use heat to transfer it to the metal - if the work-piece is totally flat then use a clothes iron, if curved you might need some relief cuts in the paper to get it to lay flat and then tape it in place and use a heatgun or torch to heat the backside of the work-piece, and then maybe some pressure on the frontside with a thick towel... The transferred toner will protect the areas you don't want etched. After etching remove the toner with steel wool, fine sandpaper, SOYsolv or maybe Goo Gone for non-abrasive removal - I've never used this method, but I've seen other Instructibles that do, as well as many tutorials on the web.<br><a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/A-Stainless-Steel-Bitcoin-Wallet/" rel="nofollow">https://www.instructables.com/id/A-Stainless-Steel-...</a></p><p>Another option in the case where you have a stencil (or a very steady/artistic hand), a Sharpie pen will protect from etching as well - and they come in several sizes from ultra fine to giant. Remove the ink with rubbing alcohol. I've used this method to make simple PCB's before. Not my Instructible - <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Making-a-Hand-Drawn-PCB./" rel="nofollow">https://www.instructables.com/id/Making-a-Hand-Draw...</a></p><p>Pretty much anything that will make a waterproof seal should work... Spray paint and stencil, paint thinner to remove. </p><p>Props to the author for innovative use of candles. I'll file that one away for future use.</p>
<p>the main point of diy is reaching your goal with the materials you have. if you have the option of more high tech solutions use them! i tried to make this project with the resources i have and i think anybody has at home. thanks for the comment!</p>
<p>another method ive seen is electrical tape. the main reason i used nail polish is that it sticks to the metal way better than something like wax. also any wax that is left(even a really thin coat) would create lumps in your etch. thanks for your comment!</p>
<p>Q: In this step (4) how did you remove the nail polish from the larger areas without scratching the metal underneath? </p>
<p>*sidenote* i tried to do the large surfaces with a q-tip with acetone, DON'T DO THIS!!! it screwed up some of my design..... just stick with the hobby knife, unless you find a better way, if so post it right here!</p>
<p>I just scratched it away with a hobby knife (it was rather blunt). the point is the current follows the path of least resistance, so any edges that are created by scratching are etched away faster. thanks for your question, hope it helped!</p>

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