1 planer, 1 mitre saw, 140 4"x4" Treated Fence Posts
13,000 cuts, sand, stain, sealer, wallah!!!!!!
 
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Step 1: Cure the wood

very simple but completely monotonous.
1. first I let the wood dry and cure for a number of weeks.
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vbaziuk says: Jun 18, 2012. 9:52 PM
I love this, believe me I do. I have a question though.. I was once told that the reason materials made for outdoors (especially wood) shouldn't be used indoors because of the different standards for treating the wood to be outdoor weather proof and in an environment where there is ventilation. Learning of this quashed all of my ideas of using outdoor products inside. Have you looked in to what your floor might be releasing into your indoor air? Might be worth some investigation. It really does look great though!! Nice work!
wecanclean says: Jun 10, 2010. 8:58 PM
Q; I'm not sure I can see in the pic, but is the left side of the room done in a "pattern" & the right side done "random"? If you tested patterns, did you like the "random" or the "pattern" better? This is the cats MEOW! Love it. I hope your floor brings you many years of beauty!
canida says: May 11, 2010. 3:26 PM
Wow, this looks excellent!  Like a parquet floor, but better.
DELETED_manonfire285 says: Jan 28, 2007. 10:09 PM
(removed by author or community request)
WILL62 in reply to DELETED_manonfire285Dec 29, 2009. 5:37 AM
You are right Manonfire and another thing that gets me is....he he instead of hee hee... whurd yall get yer comic books at   HEE HEE.
chrystopherlewis says: Mar 24, 2009. 11:59 AM
I feel dumb for asking but how do you prep the concrete,? Did you just remove all things off the concrete ? Or did you have to place chemicals to prep it ?
joelsprayberry (author) in reply to chrystopherlewisMar 25, 2009. 4:41 AM
sanded, bleached, cleaned, glued~
chrystopherlewis says: Mar 24, 2009. 12:10 PM
It's better to have extra rather than needing some more :)
snarke says: Aug 31, 2006. 2:08 PM
There's no point to using pressure-treated wood anyway. Those slots on the outside are where spikes are used to push the preservative into the wood. It only penetrates about 1cm into the wood. So as soon as you slice the end off, you expose the middle, which isn't treated. (See http://www.durable-wood.com/treated/choosing.php)

So you might as well pick something cheaper. I'll agree that an end-grain floor is going to be way more durable than the usual plank-style floor, although a heck of a lot more work to install. Yikes.

verbatin01 in reply to snarkeMar 5, 2009. 7:07 PM
good call snarke - I love this project, but you're right about the treated wood being an unnecessary cost unless you were going to use this outside for decking that rests on the ground or something. If you used a polyurethane coating, I wouldn't imagine that the arsenic would be a problem. They still use exposed treated wood to build decks, but I think covered is ok.
Asmodeo says: Dec 23, 2008. 2:51 AM
The nicest floor I have seen.Ever. My dining room's floor is "in the row", and I think I could borrow your idea. Thanks a lot!
paappraiser says: May 22, 2008. 2:28 PM
Did you figure out a cost per square foot?
ask4rew says: Apr 30, 2008. 9:21 AM
Sorry I couldn't tell because it was upside down - but now I see it ;) - Colorado can be recognized at any angle, although some folks mix us up with Wyoming...
ask4rew says: Feb 6, 2008. 6:34 AM
nice tattoo what is it?
pyroswmr in reply to ask4rewApr 30, 2008. 8:32 AM
texas
nothingmuch says: Apr 21, 2006. 6:25 AM
My aunt's husband is a rennovational architect, and he told me horror stories about wooden floors - if you don't leave enough gaps, and the floor was set while the wood was dry, but then the humidity rises, sometimes the floor will bulge up even several meters. The moral of that story is to leave gaps - both between the tiles and between the floor and the wall.
kaleb1999 in reply to nothingmuchDec 15, 2007. 8:09 AM
The trick is the same with store bought wood flooring materials, you have to allow it to climatize to the location you are going to be installing it in, plus leave the gap around the outside perimeter for exspansion.
incorrigible packrat says: Oct 30, 2007. 8:04 AM
Manufacturers of wood roof trusses usually have heaps of offcut pieces of 2x4 and 2x3 lumber, which they would probably be more than happy to part with, for very little or no cost. These could be used to make neat patterns on your floor or other project. Bonus: the offcuts are usually about one or two feet long, so they are easy to fit into a car trunk, bicycle rack, shopping cart, or whatever mode of conveyance you choose. Building supply places seem to be much more truck oriented in their product length. Also, they have the annoying habit of wanting large sums of money from you.
joelsprayberry (author) in reply to incorrigible packratNov 18, 2007. 3:58 PM
great idea packrat~
inquisitive says: Sep 30, 2007. 7:47 PM
Beautiful project-the design layout possibilities have my mind racing-I think using the endcuts like this for a table and a glass top would be so cool. Great another "Instructable Insomniac" in the making---thinking of applications and schematics-LOL Thanks so much for this! PS over a year later now-any issues from expansion/contraction?
egreen767 says: Aug 31, 2007. 12:00 AM
very cool
luc9010 says: Sep 4, 2006. 8:02 PM
Sweet floor...how much did it end up costing per square foot?
Code128 says: Apr 21, 2006. 3:56 PM
Pressure treated Fence posts are definitely not something you want in your house at all. This wood has been banned for use in playgrounds and other areas where people are. Great idea but use some other wood.
snarke in reply to Code128Aug 31, 2006. 2:18 PM
Um, not banned. The only danger is if kids chew on the wood, or if you breathe the sawdust, or chop food directly on it, or something like that. Other than that, it's very safe; the treatment stays in the wood. Also, in Step 3 above, joelsprayberry should have said "arsenic poisoning," since it's arsenic compounds, not strychnine, that were used to treat the wood. I use the word "were" because the industry voluntarily phased out chromated copper arsenate (CCA) as a treatment in 2004. Now it's almost all treated with a copper-based compound that's not toxic, but more corrosive.
radiorental says: Apr 21, 2006. 7:07 AM
Very nice work, this would also make for a nice table top or kitchen counter top. Do you know roughly what the cost psf is?
hugedom in reply to radiorentalApr 21, 2006. 8:36 AM
The fence posts are likely pressure treated with chemicals that you may not want any food to be in contact with.
DELETED_Beanwaur in reply to hugedomApr 21, 2006. 11:14 AM
(removed by author or community request)
snarke in reply to DELETED_BeanwaurAug 31, 2006. 2:12 PM
Acrylic will scratch almost instantly, it would be very expensive, and you can't get it larger than 4' x 8' sheets.
bugcam says: Jul 12, 2006. 1:16 AM
WOW! Spectacular. Aaargh! I love it so-o much I think my naughty parts are tingling! Holy cow, is that cool. Did you say what the square footage was and how long it took to do approx., a)cut b)lay down c)etc...
tagyerit says: Jun 9, 2006. 9:21 AM
It looks great. What a lot of work! But I'm wondering why you didn't use untreated wood. It should be cheaper and usually comes in a bit dryer. Also, I was wondering if there was a particular reason you started at 5/8". A thicker floor would presumably last through more refinishing jobs. Of course that would add to the cost.
kqrpnb says: Apr 24, 2006. 6:15 AM
Excellent project! I almost<i/> did the same thing, but into a butcherblock table. I had a really nice piece of 4x4 Ash... that was pretty stuff. Alas, I am ofttimes too lazy!
kqrpnb says: Apr 24, 2006. 6:10 AM
Ha ha! More projects on what to do with the left overs from step 6 when we mis-calculate from step 3!
kqrpnb says: Apr 24, 2006. 6:07 AM
Another ancillary project?
kqrpnb says: Apr 24, 2006. 6:06 AM
You can probably use math a little earlier in the process to determine how many you will need (length x width) and save yourself some cuts from step 3...
kqrpnb says: Apr 24, 2006. 6:03 AM
How about a projet on 'setting up a sliding template using paint rollers'? Then you can link that to this and use the 'idea' tag on it to let others use it in their projects. Very nice project btw.
joelsprayberry (author) says: Apr 22, 2006. 4:21 AM
to answer a few of the above questions: no arsenic probs in the house, it is the new style. the cost: if you add in the materials plus the tools was around .25/sq ft that obviously doesn't include man-hours. soft vs hard, good point. but the end of the greain is much stronger than the side. i haven't had any problems with sliding chairs or my wife walking in high heels on the floor at all. if i coud have afforded 8x8 redwood, that would have been my top choice. enjoy~
Temo Vryce says: Apr 21, 2006. 9:39 PM
THe fact that he's stained the floor and then added 3 or 4 coats of sealer to the floor, means that you would be hardpressed to get an chemicals out of the wood. 3 to 4 coats is about as air tight as you're going to get. This is a really cool project and It gives me ideas for our new house. I'm planning on building myself a computer room in the basement and this would be an awesome floor.
batzel says: Apr 21, 2006. 7:38 PM
Aren't these posts typically pine? That'd most likely be a 'softwood' floor, then.
mikesty says: Apr 21, 2006. 6:17 PM
D.I.Y. to the max! floors :D
lantera says: Apr 21, 2006. 4:23 PM
The new pressure treated stuff isn't a problem. The old formula (phased out in ~2003) used arsenic as part of the perservative. This has been replaced with a copper based formula which isn't toxic to humans (compared to the old stuff), but is very corrosive to metal fasteners. Still don't want to eat off it or snort the sawdust, but it is completely safe for skin contact.
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