As first instructable of the year I managed to finally complete my age-long nixie clock project.
Nixies are neon valve tubes, where ten cathodes have shape of digits and are lighted up by plasma when high voltage flows through them. I love these old era displays, which have been employed in last century before I was born.
In last year I've been slowly collecting components and knowledge to build some nixie clocks as Max Pierson's beautiful creation, I like the old style, the roundness of glass tubes, the rough wood case, the simplicity of the design. That clock has definitely inspired my project. Even though I really love vertical digits arrangement I keep that original feature for my next clock.
Therefore this first born is a six digits horizontal wood desk clock, with six big round Russian IN-4 nixie tubes, no dots, no visible buttons, no LED illumination, only a big massive rosewood block and the power of plasma ;-)
I have to explain you what the title means:
simple because it can be entirely built with common tools and from common components, you only have to order six IN-4 nixies and one nixie driver
user-adjustable because it's predisposed for many external sensors and additional features (as neon dots between digits, alarm, etc.)
DIY since you neither have to buy external shields or to pay for pcb manufacturing, just follow my instructable ;-)
WARNING: this circuit raises the voltage to deadly 300V so you must avoid to touch contacts while working, I'm not kidding, please BE CAREFUL!
Lately, after some research and a fast designing, I attained this functional high voltage power source circuit. Since there is a full step to step guide about the hv power source section of my clock, I will pass over that explanation. There is only something to say about the input voltage for the clock: to increase the universality of the project I decided to give the possibility to power the clock with a voltage from 9 to 35V. The best solution (in terms of efficiency and thermal dissipation) is to connect a 9V DC PSU (500 mA or more), but if you want to power the device with a voltage from 12 to 35V you only have to shift the voltage switch in direction of the ON-OFF switch (which has a center ON position between two OFF ones).
With the pot you have to set the voltage (read next step for high voltage pins) to the about 190V needed to power the IN-4 nixies (in multiplexing displays is better to use a bit more than the 180V needed to light a single nixie tube). You can of course set up the proper voltage for any other nixie tube.
The other section is the logic circuit, where a cheap Atmega8 IC (but you can also use an Atmega168 or Atmega 328), through a nixie driver and some high voltage transistors, controls the digits.
The nixie driver is a K155ID1 which is the Russian equivalent of the 74141N, and it spares you to use 20 more high voltage transistors. This driver is not very expensive, but it's not longer manufactured, so with time it will be more difficult to find, for this reason I wanted to use only one in my project (while there are many nixie clock projects which uses one driver for each digit).
This has been possible thanks to some references I found in the web
but mainly thanks to Jeremy Howa and Brad Lewis for their Arduinix project, which enlightened me about multiplexing power and from where I took the original code.
My schematic is drawn in Diptrace, a simple pcb design software, I divided it into two pats so to show it better, read notes on the image to understand circuit parts.