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Congrats on a successful build.I love your approach to the electrodes. These instructions were designed like a scavenger hunt to begin with so they're perfect!
Thanks for the recipe with salt water. I'm glad to hear you had success!
It's so fun to see people get excited about this geeky stuff. Good luck and happy painting.
I see. Then you are correct, a proximity sensor would not be a good choice. If you are only planning to build one of these devices it may be easiest to build multiple copies of this project according to the directions. If you are planning to build many copies it would be cheaper to build them your way. Even then, it may be best to build one according to the directions so you can see the intended operation. How many do you plan to make?
I think I see what you're trying to do and it's entirely possible but using two distance sensor means that you can't get constant feedback like this project does. It sounds like what you want to use your project to act as a proximity alarm. A proximity alarm could trigger a vibrator whenever something is a few cm away. If you picked the right one, you might not even need programming, it could simply power the vibrator directly from the proximity sensor's output.I'll add an eBay link so you can see the kinds of devices I'm talking about. If I have the wrong idea let me know.eBay Proximity Sensors
Issue 1: The GND for each of the HC-SR04 modules doesn't seem to be connected to the same ground as the Arduino and this would be important. Issue 2:Everything was connected to Analog input pins, which will work but most people don't do this.Issue 3: The motor was connected to Vcc and a pin which can cause problems or at least confusion when turning it on. It should have the (+) connected to an Arduino pin capable of analog output and the (-) connected to ground. On an Arduino Nano, like you have shown, the analog output pins are 3,5,6,9,10, and 11.
What kinds of readings do you expect from two ultrasonic sensors and how do you want to output that to a single vibrating motor? With the current project, a single sensor outputs to a single motor but having a second sensor makes this a different project. Can you tell me how you envision using this?The vibration motor was a 10mm diameter 3.3v cell phone vibrator motor. Anything small enough to be driven by the Arduino should be acceptable. A 5V vibrator will also work.
I have never heard of anyone using conductive paint for an antenna so I hope you are on the brink of an amazing discovery! In college, I made a Yagi antenna for a class assignment and we used weather resistant aluminum. It never occurred to me to replace metal with conductive paint in an antenna. Resistance on the traces will be significantly higher than metal but I can see a lot of advantages, especially on the receiving end of things. I don't have much advice other than to suggest painting multiple layers for greater thickness. I'm eager to hear how this turns out.
Several people have asked the same question. The consensus is that plating and forming will work but the high viscosity of the paint will obscure details. If you only want to make a simple shape without texture it should work well. If you want a very thin coat this will be a poor choice.If you follow the testing procedure here and find a lower viscosity medium to carry the graphite then you will have the best of both worlds. And please tell us!
That shouldn't give you any problems and at the same time, it should consolidate space. Cool.
Excellent! I wish I had known that earlier. Using the curbs seems to be causing fraying on the belt. Not significant fraying but a few strands of the cloth fly out.
Ahem.- I put this under the 3D printer category.- My first sentence was that I spent all my money on a 3D printer.- The main picture clearly has custom plastic parts.- Shapeways will print parts for you without having to own your own printer.- Be nice.
This was designed around 30" x 1" belts. Amazon has them and many hardware stores stock them.I needed the 1" width for a project where I'm sanding between the teeth of large plastic gears. If you wanted to try it with a wider belt you can take a look at the OpenSCAD code.
I suspect you're right about the rods getting wobbly. Maybe with reinforcement but that's practically a project in itself. I noticed that even this small version was prone to wobbling. Now if you could affix the vertical rod to a door frame or something sturdy it should keep it all in place.
Exactly, you get it!It was designed with modularity in mind. If you can find longer belts just lengthen the threaded rods. You could even run it with two pulleys instead of one.If you polish a knife with this design be sure to come back and post a picture here so I can see.
Naturally the purchased belt sander will be more rugged and easier to operate. But this takes less room. Honestly, this wouldn't be my first choice for regular sanding but I used it for a couple hours and now I probably won't touch it for another year. I'm glad I spent the time to design a new creation but, like you pointed out, there's only a small number of people who would find this useful.
I never even thought of using it6as a wet sander. I love the idea!
I recommend clamping a vacuum hose where the belt goes over a roller. That's where I noticed most of the dust. Visit my blog to see more pictures of it being used to get a better idea of where the dust lands. 24hourengineer.com
That's good advice. My drill was putting off a lot of heat.
Integrating a motor, DC or AC, would be possible. In fact, it should be easy as long as you can mount the motor to the structure and couple the drive shaft of the motor to the drive shaft of the sander.In this case, I wanted to demonstrate that it would be possible to use a power drill since so many people have one in their workshop.I'd be interested to see a version of this with a dedicated motor. Please post if you try.
Power Drill to Belt Sander ...View Instructable »
I hope you post a picture of that. I'd love to see it.
It was my pleasure, Hashy.I think the acrylic/graphite mix would be a good place to start. These ingredients aren't prone to melting so the heat shouldn't a huge issue and as long as it conducts well it shouldn't produce much heat itself. It might be prudent to put something inflammable under it for a couple days in case something hot breaks off during use.
This project should cost less than $10USD if you can buy the small hardware pieces at a hardware store. If you don't mind waiting for shipping from China the electronic parts are very inexpensive.The flashlight housing isn't necessary and it actually has a lot of empty space. If you're going to build a new enclosure the sky is the limit. I do recommend a mount for the distance sensor so it will be easy to bolt down. Have fun with the design and post a picture when you finish!
Topographical Lake 3D PrintView Instructable »
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