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Zip tie secured on the shower head arm--to keep the shower caddy from sliding off.
You will have much better success letting the rats eat off the trap for awhile before actually setting it.
Glad to see that no bacon was harmed making this Instructable!
140 degrees or above is the temperature needed to kill bed bugs. Heat treatments are not seen as effective in killing bed bugs--many heat treatments need to be performed multiple times. As a licenced exterminator, I'd advise against picking up abandoned furniture and bedding.
Bringing discarded furniture into your home increases your risk of having to deal with an expensive bed bug problem. Are you sure you want to do this?
I've always used naphtha to remove adhesive residue and never have had issues with it weakening or dissolving plastic. (Naphtha is sold as cigarette lighter fluid, white gas for camping stoves or "VM & P Naphtha" in most paint stores.)
I like to put a large piece of cardboard under my car when I change the oil. The cardboard catches the inevitable drips and makes it easier for me to "shimmy" by way around under the vehicle.
Just wanted to add to this Instructable...Naphtha works very well to remove solvent based adhesive. You can buy naphtha in a paint store as "VM&P Naphtha" or as cigarette lighter fluid for zippos. I recommend baby oil (safer than naphtha but slower to work) to remove glue from skin. Vegetable oil is also commonly used to release animals from rodent glue traps, FYI.
A Fernco fitting "hidden" inside the wall is a recipe for future headaches. Me thinks that your "Master Plumber" friend at the Depot led you astray.
Just use Penetrol--it works great to seal rusty metal.
If you ask an exterminator what it the most difficult pest to get rid of, it is the fruit fly. The main factor in fruit fly control is sanitation. If you remove their breeding sites, you will remove the problem. Trapping alone won't work.
You do realize that "pressure treated" wood is treated to resist rot due to contact with the soil, don't you?
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