DIY Hacks and How Tos

  • Date JoinedJul 14, 2011
  • Total Views7,655,956
  • Featured %87%
  • Best Answers %42%


dreens1 month ago

Hi Jason,

I really like how you use shadowing to make the text you add to your cover images stand out better. Would you mind sharing how you do it?



DIY Hacks and How Tos (author)  dreens1 month ago

I do it in a really inefficient way. I make a layer with the text. Then I duplicate the layer. Then make the duplicate layer a negative to turn black. Then I use guassian blur to blur the black text at a radius that will spread it out proportionately. Then duplicate the blurred layer to get the darkness that you want. Put the white text layer on top and merge all the layers. The only reason why I do this is because I have a 15 year old photo editor. If you have photoshop, there is a much easier easier way.

You guys should check out Gimp. Its free, cross platform, and you can do this with a simple Filters → Light and Shadow → Drop Shadow.

AllisonL2129 days ago

Hi Jason, I have a battery powered clock (with hands) that I want to convert to AC. The clock uses only a single AA battery - 1.5v. Originally i wanted to just connect up a regulated power supply that matched 1.5v, but my electronics store tells me you can't get one. 3v is the smallest output. So I have been your tutorial about using a LM317 voltage regulator and 2 resistors to bring the VOUT down to 1.5v and to do this I am a bit unsure of what size ohm resistors (R1 & R2) I would need and if they can be sourced. By my understanding I would need something like a 240 ohm or 220 ohm resistor for the R1 and about 80ohm for the R2. Would this be the way you approached this? I am looking for guidance so if you can point me in the right direction in terms of Resistor size etc....I can refer back to your tutorial to complete the wiring.

I don't have any experience in this type of stuff, so please try to explain any instructions as basic as possible.

Appreciate any help you can give.


Skip the LM317. Use a red LED in series with a 220 Ohm resistor at the 3V output of the power supply. Connect the clock +ve to the LED +ve and the clock -ve to the LED -ve. You may need a capacitor (100 microfarad at 6V is ok) across the LED also, if the clock is erratic. Voltage will be 1.7V which is ok for the clock. Look on the web for "hobby electronic components" to find suppliers. Or get components from junked electronic devices, from toasters to TVs. If you don't have one, buy a cheap multimeter and soldering iron.

Those values should give you about the right output. If you want to be more precise, you can purchase commercial power supplies that operate at 1.5V

Do you know if there will be a K'nex contest later this year?

I don't really know. I am not involved in the contest scheduling. If you want, you can ask the contest manager Celeste

Thanks, I'll ask her!

Does it take you a long time to make sure that they are sure to work?

Every project is different. Some work right away. Others take a lot of modification. Some keep working for years. Others last only a few hours. The uncertainty makes it really interesting.

I would like to see if you can help me with some inventions ideas I have and turn me in the right direction like manufacturing fundinoug , appreciate send a contact number and a direct e mail to contact you that has a great knowledge on inventions and similar

Thank you will await for your answer Alberto C Pena 206 779 3299 can also txt me

DIY Hacks and How Tos (author)  AlbertoP403 months ago

Just send me a message on Instructables.

Thorhammerfoe4 months ago

First I'd like to say you post some awesome stuff. Very inspiring. Your remote cannon gave me a great idea, and I based my current build off of it. So all credit to you.

As I said, based off your idea, I am trying to build a pneumatic device to replicate a boom for some military training (you probably heard of camp atterbury in Indiana) as a safer alternative to the pyrotechnics we've been using. It'll have some cork and flour in it. I am using a brass orbit electronic anti siphon valve (24v) to withstand the higher pressures needed for simulation, along with the tank and pipes being all metal. I've tested it with a motor cycle battery and pressure plate, and that works fine. However. I am running into an issue with initiating remotely. The remote cues (quantumfire) don't have enough power to activate the valve. Do you have any recommendations for this issue?

I think the operating range will be about 300 psi to start with and see if the effect is satisfactory. Will post when prost when finished. Thanks again!

happyhippy14 months ago

great instructables where ddo you get such great ideas?