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I like to improve myself and things I find :) Learning new things every day is next to impossible but I still try - only a working brain can work. I have no special sector to cover, electronics, electrical stuff, 3D printing, restoring old clocks and furniture. Whatever sounds interesting I try it. In my spare time I love to fly big kites, go fishing or simply go bush in 4WD to find a good fishing spot. Active spam fighter!

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  • You would need an ongoing connection where the flash changes a pulse, bit or similar to be fest enough.That is where RF remote options are better than Wifi as you only have to fight with the time it takes to process the signal and activate the flash.Same story for IR.Some cameras allow for a set delay for the triggering.This allows to have everything done the cam needs to do to get the perfect picture and the pulse for the external flash has a "negative" delay.So the pulse for the external flash is send out slightly before the shutter of the cam.But not sure if your cam has that option available for compensation....

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  • Every half decent camera allows for the connection of an addition flash.Either by top mount or by a headphone like plug.All you need is to read the datasheet or technical specs (the detailed ones) for your camera.If in doubt measure the impuls with an oscilloscope or very fast multimeter that has a lock function for the highest value recorded.From there you only need a suitable transistor for the input and a suitable remote on the other end.Options are endless from going overboard with a little arduino and WiFi or RF shield to simple with discreet components and a bit of wire.

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  • I would check first if you are allowed to do it.When it comes to cars most countries have quite strict rules for "homemade additions".There is a reason for it...If you can still continue check the weight of everything first.Wood can be heavier than you think, especially with hundreds of screws in it and several thick coats of varnish.A very neat way to cut the weight down and get best stability would be to make the ouside from sheets of chipboard or wood laminate, whatever is cheaper to obtain.A frame, some boiling water or steam and glue is all you need.There are several Ibles about bending wood and making furniture, check a few ;)

    No sarcasm here...The fact is that in most modern countries anything you add to your car must comply with certain design criteria and be legal to use in terms of being safe in an accident.Let's face it: The last thing you want is your wooden top to desintegrate in an accident and injuring people nearby.And again without any sarcasm: The best place to ask is quite obvious:The place that gives the registration to your vehicle or the one required to inspect a used car so the ownership can be transfered for road use.Basically the same as building your own trailer from scratch.In a lot of cases a certain size does not even require own numberplates.But if it does it will be checked for compliance with road safety and structural safety.I know in certain parts of the US it does not matter what ...see more »No sarcasm here...The fact is that in most modern countries anything you add to your car must comply with certain design criteria and be legal to use in terms of being safe in an accident.Let's face it: The last thing you want is your wooden top to desintegrate in an accident and injuring people nearby.And again without any sarcasm: The best place to ask is quite obvious:The place that gives the registration to your vehicle or the one required to inspect a used car so the ownership can be transfered for road use.Basically the same as building your own trailer from scratch.In a lot of cases a certain size does not even require own numberplates.But if it does it will be checked for compliance with road safety and structural safety.I know in certain parts of the US it does not matter what you do to your car in terms of canopies or truck tops but that does not mean every design someone created in his backyard is actuall safe on the road.Can you imagine why they abondoned wooden exteriors for cars and most trailer ages ago?Your design might certainly look great when finnished but unless you happen to be a structural engeneer I still advise t double check the legal side first and than go for a design with as much "solid" wood as possible.Panel designs with hundreds of screws are a thing I would not want to have permanently connected to my car.

    I hope you have more luck with your searches for other parts of your project, seems Google is not yet your friend.Try this for example, includes links to Instructables as well.Not really that hard is it? ;)

    Forgot to mention:Using single sheets that are not laminated is the best option.Multilayers thicker than 3mm can be a real pain to bend.The single ones often only need a good soak in warm water to make them flexible enough to go around bends like you would have.If there is any furniture makin store near you or your hardware store is well stocked you can use something more special than birch or pine for the last layer.Or just use a nice stain if you want to stay on a budget.Make sure to create enough layers to get proper stability.8-10mm are usually sufficient unless you want the final piece without any internal support frames on the wood.For a clean inside look with enough strength and thickness to use proper screws I recommend going to 12 or up to 15mm.You won't get a better look than ...see more »Forgot to mention:Using single sheets that are not laminated is the best option.Multilayers thicker than 3mm can be a real pain to bend.The single ones often only need a good soak in warm water to make them flexible enough to go around bends like you would have.If there is any furniture makin store near you or your hardware store is well stocked you can use something more special than birch or pine for the last layer.Or just use a nice stain if you want to stay on a budget.Make sure to create enough layers to get proper stability.8-10mm are usually sufficient unless you want the final piece without any internal support frames on the wood.For a clean inside look with enough strength and thickness to use proper screws I recommend going to 12 or up to 15mm.You won't get a better look than something that looks like one solid piece of wood ;)If you get big enough sheets you can even cut the door walls so they would would match the grain of the last sheet used for the outside - makes it look like you carved it out of wood (if you are no expert).

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  • Downunder35m commented on jarcher12's forum topic WImeo is censored in Indonesia9 hours ago

    If your internet speed is half decent you can try a free VPN service but from my knowledge internet is slow for most people in your region already and a free VPN makes it a bit slower again.Your country "blocks" websites by returning wrong DNS packets to you.If you are lucky then you ISP has not already blocked DNS services like Google or OpenDNS, worth a check.The last alternative I know that works for such simple censorchip is a service like DNSCrypt.Once setup it will literally encrypt all DNS traffic so your ISP is unable to see what is going on.Should also free a lot of other blocked websites for you.Use it with caution and only where and when required!Once too many people use these "backdoors" the gouvernment will notice and try to find ways to block it too.Whe...see more »If your internet speed is half decent you can try a free VPN service but from my knowledge internet is slow for most people in your region already and a free VPN makes it a bit slower again.Your country "blocks" websites by returning wrong DNS packets to you.If you are lucky then you ISP has not already blocked DNS services like Google or OpenDNS, worth a check.The last alternative I know that works for such simple censorchip is a service like DNSCrypt.Once setup it will literally encrypt all DNS traffic so your ISP is unable to see what is going on.Should also free a lot of other blocked websites for you.Use it with caution and only where and when required!Once too many people use these "backdoors" the gouvernment will notice and try to find ways to block it too.When that happens your only way out is a paid VPN server to get the data you need.Question is if you are willing (able) to spent money on such services and if you have enough use for it to justify the costs.

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  • PWM control and good filters...

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  • You can get broom stick or handles for a squeegee that extent, same for replacement tend poles.It is basically just a screw collar that pulls a bock itght into the pipe to lock it.Should be simple enough to either modify this or to get some checp handles to cut to the length you need.Squeegee heads for these system also come with a "swivel", only goes sideway though.Check your favourite hardware store and visist their cleaning section.If in doubt do the same for some cheap dollar shops as well ;)

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  • No worries and I am sure there will be some nice ideas coming up, just give them a week or so to actually find this.

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  • Downunder35m commented on cyberogre's forum topic Instructables App1 day ago

    Just a bit down the page where your posting appeared is all explained.Hint: Retirement

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  • Downunder35m commented on AdamF138's forum topic Bay window seating question2 days ago

    What is wrong with just placing a suitable chair or similar next to the window? ;)

    L-shape comes into mind.If the bottom part is long enough and the entire thing stable enough you can mount a seat on the vertical part of it.

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  • 1+...Full member only for a few years but reading here for much longer and never had a single problem.I also fail to see the fuzz about HTTPS compared to HTTP.Almost all cases of spams or attacks happen because of weak or useless passwords on the user end but not so much because Http is used instead of Https.When I was an active forum moderator and admin we had complaints almost on a weekly base.Did that for about 3 years and in this timeframe there was not a single case where the website or it's security was compromised, only users with hacked accounts due to weak passwords.Once fed up enough we simply blocked all user logins completely until the user used the link supplied in the Email to reset the password and use one with at least 8 characters, upper and lower of course, at least on...see more »1+...Full member only for a few years but reading here for much longer and never had a single problem.I also fail to see the fuzz about HTTPS compared to HTTP.Almost all cases of spams or attacks happen because of weak or useless passwords on the user end but not so much because Http is used instead of Https.When I was an active forum moderator and admin we had complaints almost on a weekly base.Did that for about 3 years and in this timeframe there was not a single case where the website or it's security was compromised, only users with hacked accounts due to weak passwords.Once fed up enough we simply blocked all user logins completely until the user used the link supplied in the Email to reset the password and use one with at least 8 characters, upper and lower of course, at least one number and one special character.Guess what? From that day on there were no complaints at all anymore about hacked user accounts, plus we weeded out about 2500 accounts with identical IP or Email addresses....For forums users loce to complain that they got hacked, attacked or spammed because the forum is not safe enough.Sad truth is that in 99% of cases it is ads causing the problem and the owner of the website has little to no say on what is pushed through the ads.Ask yourself:1. Is my password long and secure enough?2. Do I allow every damn advertisement to spam my screen?3. Do I actually use any proper software on my system to prevent my identity from being stolen or misused?4. Am I lazy and allow the browser to store all my passwords?5. Am I lazy again and use the same password for multiple websites?The best way to avoid being scammed, hacked or get your identy stolen is not to use the internet at all ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on DiaPia's forum topic Why Vegan Is Good?3 days ago

    It is life choice everyone has to make for themself.But if evolution is not mistaken than we actually evolved from being pure carnivors to omnivors which eat everything the body can digest properly.If we were actually meant to be herbivores than we would have different jaw/teeth and digestive system ;)The health side is something that is usally overstated like with any other hype out there.A vegetarian or vegan is not a single bit healthier than someone having meat in the diet.If you use the internet not just to find the benefits you will soon find people where being vegan went just totally wrong health wise...With 5 friends that converted to green only I got enough insight over the years to say it is not what you eat but how you prepare and eat it!One of my friends is what I like to ca...see more »It is life choice everyone has to make for themself.But if evolution is not mistaken than we actually evolved from being pure carnivors to omnivors which eat everything the body can digest properly.If we were actually meant to be herbivores than we would have different jaw/teeth and digestive system ;)The health side is something that is usally overstated like with any other hype out there.A vegetarian or vegan is not a single bit healthier than someone having meat in the diet.If you use the internet not just to find the benefits you will soon find people where being vegan went just totally wrong health wise...With 5 friends that converted to green only I got enough insight over the years to say it is not what you eat but how you prepare and eat it!One of my friends is what I like to call a racist vegan, refusing everything that can be in any way related to aninal origins.And if anything is not 100% organic it is off limit as well.After now 7 years he did loose a lot of weight, which he claims on the benefits of green, I claim it is the reduced calorie intake combined with no longer drinking at least 2 slabs of beer per week.But there was not a single year where his doc had no major complaints about his bloodwork, mineral levels and blood count in general.So I won't take him as a prime example of things going right LOLThe others are doing quite fine on their "softer" vegetarian diet.But again I fail to see the actual benefit if I consider the before and now situations.The all had to learn cooking the stuff the correct way and cooking in their old days was nothing you would consider healthy...Too much oil and salt, meals often more a calorie bomb than healthy and of course lots of booze at least for the male parts...If changing from what we consider "normal" to vegetarian or even vegan means you change your entire lifestyle aorund it as well and actually learn cooking the right way for the first time in your life than leaving animal products out was not what made you healthy ;)And if everyone would change and become a vegetarian - what will all the animals eat once billions of people compete for their food sources and areas to grow them? ;)

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  • Correct, just sharing here.There is plenty of info on the web and here how to use a fridge compressor or similar.But most lack the infos needed to actually make it last or provide clean air, so I put something together ;)

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  • If a sponsor wants to get a lot of hits than it would be unproductive to limit a contest in such a way.Try to imagine a woodworking contest where the goal is to build a wooden model boat at a budget of less than 100 bucks.To match your needs certain design criteria are given that need matching too.No matter how YOU see it, this would be a very boring contest for the Ible community.All we would get is a ton of very similar projects "littering" around once the contest is over.Or let's build a weather station with two arduinos and Wifi for under 50 bucks...You see the pattern?What you want is a building competition like some schools do in higher classes.Give a limited bill of materials, options and designs and make the best of it.IMHO this is good for teambuilding and group work ...see more »If a sponsor wants to get a lot of hits than it would be unproductive to limit a contest in such a way.Try to imagine a woodworking contest where the goal is to build a wooden model boat at a budget of less than 100 bucks.To match your needs certain design criteria are given that need matching too.No matter how YOU see it, this would be a very boring contest for the Ible community.All we would get is a ton of very similar projects "littering" around once the contest is over.Or let's build a weather station with two arduinos and Wifi for under 50 bucks...You see the pattern?What you want is a building competition like some schools do in higher classes.Give a limited bill of materials, options and designs and make the best of it.IMHO this is good for teambuilding and group work but won't help to make the contests here more intersting or competive.Or is all this just another way of you stating how little you actually like how things are done around here? ;)In case you have not noticed a single voice with little positive feedback from others won't cause the wind direction to change...

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  • No such problems here, well, living on my own helps with the partner problem LOL

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  • What is 18 minutes of "wasted" time if it might save you the cost for an expensive oil free compressor?;)It is to give some ideas, but I won't force anyone to read it if not interested.

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  • Also a good way to get killed or kill someone if I trust the statistics ;)I you think you need to hurry and speed then it simply only means that you already did something wrong before you even started the car ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on mchau2's forum topic Which arduino borad to buy?1 week ago

    The Mega has it's purpose and glory when it comes to a large amount of extras, like display, SD, encoders, motors, sensors and so on.As you already pointed out using "standard" code from some website almost always means you have to do some modifications to the code.Mostly the pins but when it comes to timers and interrupts even more.I have to say that for every purpose and skill level there is an Arduino to fit.That makes getting into microprocessors very easy - if you take your time ;)The one thing I really don't like about Arduino is the compiling part.Even if you know the code you found is for the Arduino in question and you have collected all required libraries it does not mean you can compile it with success.Only too often a specific version of the IDE is required, same f...see more »The Mega has it's purpose and glory when it comes to a large amount of extras, like display, SD, encoders, motors, sensors and so on.As you already pointed out using "standard" code from some website almost always means you have to do some modifications to the code.Mostly the pins but when it comes to timers and interrupts even more.I have to say that for every purpose and skill level there is an Arduino to fit.That makes getting into microprocessors very easy - if you take your time ;)The one thing I really don't like about Arduino is the compiling part.Even if you know the code you found is for the Arduino in question and you have collected all required libraries it does not mean you can compile it with success.Only too often a specific version of the IDE is required, same for certain libraries, especially if the author made changes to them.From my starting experience I know it can be a real pain if you think your code is correct but won't compile and the error messages make no real sense.I have spend days finding errors that disappeared after using a different IDE version ROFL

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  • Use a switch...If operated with the airstream drill a hole to add a locking pin....Easiest escape would be to invest the 10 bucks and to get a hard floor attachment.Most use the same pipe diameter so even the hard rubbish is an option here if you want to go cheap....

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  • Downunder35m commented on iceng's forum topic Laser Rangefinder1 week ago

    There are certainly options with a 32bit processor but the bigger question would be the price range.The laser and optics need to be of good quality, the receiver very sensitive and all needs to be pulsed to avoid interference from surrounding light.Apart from the programming nightmare I just doubt it is possible to get good accuracy at a budget price here.

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  • Of course Australia, I Canada I would only have to open my window now to cool my PC ;)But we will hit the 40°C (104°F) again next week so I thought it is time to write it down somewhere.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Romdu421's forum topic USB heater1 week ago

    You can do it by simple math first....A standard USB 1.0 or 2.0 port will supply a max of 500mA.A USB 3.0 can supply 900mA, 1.5A if the connected device is recognised as a dedicated battery charger.USB 3.1 offer the same power levels as USB 3.0.So in the best case you would have about 4.5Wh available for heating...And no 20W won't work at all as you only have a max (as a battery charger) of 0.9Ah at 5V available.Would be easier to use the 12V rail from the power supply of the computer...

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  • Downunder35m commented on gooseisloose's forum topic Miniature oven1 week ago

    A single cupcake oven would be easier done with a hot air gun...

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  • Not really, I noticed in many parts of Africa the cars have no number plates at all.And why would the cops think anything bad if they see a flipping number plate?Maybe the owner has an expensive car as well and takes the number plates for a ride so they some wear and tear? ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on J0ub3rt's forum topic USB to AA converter?1 week ago

    You can use a 3.3V voltage regulator, the additional 0.3V won't be a problem if you check the voltage of fresh batteries.Problem is the available power.A standard USB port supplies a max of 500mA and some computers have no real protection for them.So to get both you might want to consider adding a 10Ohm resistor between USB and regulator to limit the max current.If you go for SMD parts there will be no problem with size either in these power ranges.Depending on the type of regulator and device requirements you might want to follow the recommendation in the data sheet for additional capacitors to stabilize the output.In case the additional 0.3V are a problem you can add a diode with a similar voltage drop into the output line.

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  • Sometimes you only get the right inspiration after you finnished the project and Instructable.All that extra thinking makes your mind wander off and pick up things you have seen before and better implemented - like your thornes.I think the number one thing not to waste time on is on an Instructable that is chewed over like no tomorrow.Just don't make one on how to boil an egg for example...Another thing to avoid IMHO is stuff that can't really be replicated by anyone at a normal level - like how to make silica aerogel at home...And of course it all depends on your aim.Some people only want to share some info or provide a way of doing something while others are just not happy unless they get featured and appear in the newsletter.A featured Instructable does not always appear as good to s...see more »Sometimes you only get the right inspiration after you finnished the project and Instructable.All that extra thinking makes your mind wander off and pick up things you have seen before and better implemented - like your thornes.I think the number one thing not to waste time on is on an Instructable that is chewed over like no tomorrow.Just don't make one on how to boil an egg for example...Another thing to avoid IMHO is stuff that can't really be replicated by anyone at a normal level - like how to make silica aerogel at home...And of course it all depends on your aim.Some people only want to share some info or provide a way of doing something while others are just not happy unless they get featured and appear in the newsletter.A featured Instructable does not always appear as good to someone reading it up and something with just a few hits might make you wonder why it is not featured.I still have a bunch of unfinnished Instructables, some due to a lack of time and workshop other because I am still figuring out better or easier ways.Wasted time? Maybe but if nothing else it also helps to reflect on them once you rework it all to finnish.So many people died trying things, at least we only waste time on some Instructable that might never be published ROFL

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  • Do a Google search for LED resistor calculators.Otherwise you can use the data for the LED color in question and Ohms law to calculate the resistor needed.3V might be too low for green and blue colors as most require around 3.2-4.2V for full brightness.Again, should be specified for your LED and each color.Something like 2.6V and 26mA for example.

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  • Won't happen.There are many discussions already about the order, or the lack of it, when it comes to the comments.Sometimes a topic pos up after years just to be forced to scroll all the way down the page to find a "useless" and unrelated comment to another comment.Where any normal forum has a sorting order by the date and time of a comment we have chaos.Seems that the concept of quoting the part replied to (if not the latest) is too confusing for the code monkeys ;)All the good forums in the world must do it wrong it seems...

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  • That is one reason why I prefer to host my video files on Youtube.Even if they get lost I can just upload them again and simply change the link in the Ible.If you still have the original video then just delete the old one in the Ible and upload the video to your library instead of putting it directly into the Ible.Use the link from your library in the Ible and all should be good.

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  • If you have a food sealer, vacuum pump or old fridge compressor you can test how good your PLA really is.Print a closed cube or pyramid to keep the bridging away.A size of 2 x 2cm is enough to have a good internal space.Submerge in water after you tried your sealing method and pull a light vacuum.If bubbles come out (a tiny few) it can be from within the layers, if lots of bubbles come out you might fill the thing with water.A test on scale before and after will tell.

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  • You can get "door mats" with pressure switches in them.Works same way as your laser idea just much simpler.

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  • It won't be from Instructables but from an advertisement.Can alos be very possible that you got infected before and the malware was just waiting for the browser.Usually only happens on rooted devices where the use failed to secure the device properly and failed to use simple things like malware protection.

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  • Downunder35m commented on YoloPeeps's forum topic Leyden Jar2 weeks ago

    I do know as I learned my things ;)What I don't know is what you want or try as you still fail to provide any vital detail - so what answers do you expect to get?Should we start with 50 questions first in the hope you give the details required?If I were to comment on you the same way you did on me than we would have to rate this thread 18+ ;)

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  • Unless you use ABS and seal with acetone or ABS juice forget 3D printing to get anything watertight.Consider rubber seals and screw connections to seperate the hull for acces to the elecronics.Consider a battery pack in a sealed compartment or drop-in box with waterproof connectors.This way you can change the battery quickly without a worry about opeing the actual hull.Use the weight and location of the battery pack to level the craft ;)

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  • Since the topic got spammed again I take the opportunity to give some info for the AU guys here:Had to order some things a while ago and although Ebay had them some were not allowed to make it through customs.So instead I started to use Google to find any chemical suppliers statewide first.(Interstate courier can be costly with certain chemicals but sometimes you can't avoid it)After a few bad responses, as some simply don't sell to the public no matter what you want to order, I got lucky with one company agreeing to sell but only if the orders are over $100.100 buck was not a problem as I already knew I would get close to the 200 mark anyway.So for "normal" stuff like nitrates you should have not too much of a problem unless you are unable to produce your drivers license and ...see more »Since the topic got spammed again I take the opportunity to give some info for the AU guys here:Had to order some things a while ago and although Ebay had them some were not allowed to make it through customs.So instead I started to use Google to find any chemical suppliers statewide first.(Interstate courier can be costly with certain chemicals but sometimes you can't avoid it)After a few bad responses, as some simply don't sell to the public no matter what you want to order, I got lucky with one company agreeing to sell but only if the orders are over $100.100 buck was not a problem as I already knew I would get close to the 200 mark anyway.So for "normal" stuff like nitrates you should have not too much of a problem unless you are unable to produce your drivers license and a good reason why you need it.If in doubt you need it for hot bluing steel ;)Shipping....Some companies won't ships acids or nitrates for the simple reason of not having the required transport license or drivers for it.If the chemical supplier that is willing to sell to you can't provide a shipping company for your small amounts you need to be prepared to offer an alternative you organise!Check with your local courier services if and for what cost the ship the chemicals you need.Also check if you can arrange the pickup from your end.Certain concentrated acids as well as oxidizers in bigger quantities might require that you register them with your local police and fire brigade.For this you will also proof that your storage is suitable in terms of safety and fire risks.Although not really required in Victoria, I have my oxidizers and acids registered with clear info where to find them in case of emergencies.Good thing about this that the local authorities are informed and know you use the stuff for legal reasons.In return that means even if a batch of rocket candy goes off in the backyard the guys won't rush in after a neighbour called without ringing and checking with you - very helpful at times, especially if called them before to let them know you start some bluing which could cause some smoke ;)I assume most people trying to obtain nitrates in AU plan on using them in ways that are not fully legal in this country, so here is some additional advise:Unless you are very remote and withought neighbours consider what happens if someone sees a lot of smoke coming from your backyard...Even outside the fire season you should never use rocket candy or smoke mixes, let alone more serious mixes anywhere where they could start a fire!You might thing the grass won't catch fire or that the trees are far enough away - trust me if something can go wrong then it will sooner rather than later.Be prepared for the worst at all times!This means even if the batch you use is small have the right tools at hand to deal with a fire right away - you don't want to start looking for the garden hose once the shed is already on fire...Nitrates can be very nasty to certain metals, not to mention how well they feed weeds.Even the resulting smoke when you burn your mix can be enough to cause bad corrosion on the metals it comes into contact with.Mostly after a bit of rain or days with morning fog.Last but not least: Never trust Youtube!!!If it looks safe in the video it does not mean the guy in it is still alive ;)One of the worst misconception coming from Youtube is that the smoke from rocket candy or smoke mixes with nitrates is harmless.All sorts of aggressive compounds are created when the stuff burns off and in most cases some of the nitrate is simply vaporised as well.The smoke will damage you airways and lungs.Severe exposure can even cause damage to your nervous system and the damage to your airways can kill you, so play safe at all times.

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  • Downunder35m commented on YoloPeeps's forum topic Leyden Jar2 weeks ago

    How would anyone but you know if you don't provide any vital details? ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on YoloPeeps's forum topic Leyden Jar2 weeks ago

    I would try electricity, preferable DC....

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  • It is about power and protection.Do you want to blow up a 20cent tansistor if something goes wrong or an "expensive" Arduino?;)

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  • Your pic shows a webcam and a speaker but not two speakers.Either I am blind or you don't know what you took out of the laptop ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on Jayefuu's forum topic The Clinic3 weeks ago

    Not a bad idea but some suggestions:No kids drawings with a marker ;) Does not look good, a sticker or logo would be better.Using cardboard as a template might work to some extend but for a half decent fit on modern phones you need accuracy.You might want to try some sticky tape around the sides of the phone to cover buttons or things poking out.Then put it all in a balloon or condom to create plaster or silicone form of it.Seal and fill it to be used to heat form the plastic around the actual shape of the phone.Or to make it quick place the plastic sheet over the heated form and press it in for a good fit.All this allows you to use a heat gun or your oven to get an accurate fit.Apart from these differences in approach the documentation is good and should get you somewhere.If you change...see more »Not a bad idea but some suggestions:No kids drawings with a marker ;) Does not look good, a sticker or logo would be better.Using cardboard as a template might work to some extend but for a half decent fit on modern phones you need accuracy.You might want to try some sticky tape around the sides of the phone to cover buttons or things poking out.Then put it all in a balloon or condom to create plaster or silicone form of it.Seal and fill it to be used to heat form the plastic around the actual shape of the phone.Or to make it quick place the plastic sheet over the heated form and press it in for a good fit.All this allows you to use a heat gun or your oven to get an accurate fit.Apart from these differences in approach the documentation is good and should get you somewhere.If you change the pics to something without the hand drawn image in the cover it will be even better - but that is my personal opinion and might not be the same for other people so don't give too much on it ;)

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  • What did I do wrong now?;)

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  • So that you don't waste too much time and money I'll give you my five cents for free ;)1. Problems:To make anything float, sink and dive you need to be able to adjust the weight, e.g. the thing will sink due to weight and air in the ballast tanks keeps it floating.Unless you just want to drive into the water and dump some rocks to get back to the surface you need gas and a way to control the filling of the tanks.Remote...Most RC remotes you can find will be quite useless once the thing is under water as it limits range like gravity does on how high you can jump.Considering all the extras you need the remote will be costly.Sealing....Everything that moves on the outside will need a way to be fully water tight.That means either to use fully sealed and external motor compartments or proper...see more »So that you don't waste too much time and money I'll give you my five cents for free ;)1. Problems:To make anything float, sink and dive you need to be able to adjust the weight, e.g. the thing will sink due to weight and air in the ballast tanks keeps it floating.Unless you just want to drive into the water and dump some rocks to get back to the surface you need gas and a way to control the filling of the tanks.Remote...Most RC remotes you can find will be quite useless once the thing is under water as it limits range like gravity does on how high you can jump.Considering all the extras you need the remote will be costly.Sealing....Everything that moves on the outside will need a way to be fully water tight.That means either to use fully sealed and external motor compartments or proper seals on the drive shaft.Pressure....Most people tend to forget about the fact that even in quite shallow waters a submersible can be subjected to quite a bit of pressure.This means either the "hull" can fail or water can be pushed in through bad seals.2. Possible options:Instead of trying to make a tank sink and work under water it might be easier to combine something like RC dive and movemnet controls with a fully sealed tank designed from scratch.After all if you can balance the weight properly you can use pods to move on the surface as well as under water.Considering the amount of extra weight you would need for proper traction on the ground and that it might be very slippery....I would use fully sealed compartments for the track motors and driveshafts and seals as used on bigger RC boats.The remote is the biggest problem unless you only use shallow waters.One option is to use a retractable antenna (preferable in the 2GHz range) so you can keep it on the surface at all times - just don't go into underwater caves or under submerged logs...

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  • Downunder35m commented on CDolan1989's forum topic LED Lightbar DIY3 weeks ago

    A few years back I did it the cheap way using a square aluminium profile and LED reversing lights.Just a few big holes and some fibreglass resing to seal it all....

    I would do it this way ( I guess):1. Get prices for all the materials and parts required.2. Check availability.3. Forget about it and just buy a ready to go bar...Reason for 3. is that these light bars have dropped quite a bit in price.Around here you get a 240W one for under 200 bucks...

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  • I only see two wires for the speaker and two wires for the Webcam...

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  • Downunder35m commented on christopher.kytle's forum topic Annoying Popups3 weeks ago

    It does...

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  • Power?Two speakers with all up 4 wires means 2 wires per speaker.If power then for what exact purpose do you need it?

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  • Downunder35m commented on PeterP12's forum topic Read Later3 weeks ago

    Fail to see the problem, I open the tabs in my browser and after a reboot the same tabs come back when starting the browser.Also people can use bookmarks.Last but not least you can download the website for offline use or download the PDF as a pro member.ore than enough options if you ask me.

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  • Downunder35m commented on erik12892's forum topic Learn Spanish & English3 weeks ago

    What group and why is it posted in science?

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  • I had a thought about the problem here and the Mythbusters always kept popping back into my mind....For blood they used rubber hoses and ballons.The bones for some hand dummies were made with fibreglass resin and some plastic, later they used better substitudes after making several comparison tests on "donated" cadaver bones.If you want real organs the best replacement would be pig organs as they are the closest you will get to real human ones.Problem is obtaining them as in most countries you will have a hard time getting a liver and brains are off the menu anyway - but they can be replaced by your favourite flavor of jello and vanilla sauce.If the size difference is no big deal then lamb bones come close enough to human bones in terms of breaking and crushing them.Pig, cow a...see more »I had a thought about the problem here and the Mythbusters always kept popping back into my mind....For blood they used rubber hoses and ballons.The bones for some hand dummies were made with fibreglass resin and some plastic, later they used better substitudes after making several comparison tests on "donated" cadaver bones.If you want real organs the best replacement would be pig organs as they are the closest you will get to real human ones.Problem is obtaining them as in most countries you will have a hard time getting a liver and brains are off the menu anyway - but they can be replaced by your favourite flavor of jello and vanilla sauce.If the size difference is no big deal then lamb bones come close enough to human bones in terms of breaking and crushing them.Pig, cow and other big animal bones are usually much stronger than ours when you hit them and they break in a different way.Maybe time to watch some Maythbusters to get ideas for your dummy ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on anon_private's forum topic Cable Ties3 weeks ago

    IMHO the better option is to use tiny cable channeles that you can glue or screw on the skirting boards at floor level.In most cases you can even hide the cable by pushing it into the corner where the carpet hits the wall.For aournd the doors you can try these "re-usable" or removable double sided tape strips used for kitchen hooks, although I found using hotglue much easier.Hotglue sticks quite well and if cooled with an icecube it breaks off without marks- proper paint on the surface assuming here....

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  • Do you guys actually have a real job or are you paid just to post whenever possible?

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  • Keep in mind that you can use the empty space behind and around the small enclosures too ;)Meaning, to safew space you can mount the base speaker tin the back with the reflector tube going out the front.Works great if the speaker is meant to be placd in a corner anyway.

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  • Downunder35m commented on leblanc9425's forum topic DIY Outdoor Event Searchlight3 weeks ago

    It all depends on the focus here and how much light you actually need.These search lights produce an extreme narrow, almost parallel beam.Not easy to do with more than one "light bulb".If you want to avoid commercail products check Google and Youtube for extreme bright flashlights ;)Some guys build "flashlights" that make a house look like it is bright daylight from a mile away.They basically buy they brightest and most powerful LED chips they can find and often use 3 or more of them.The beam is then focussed to the size of the actual LED(s) and comes out almost parallel.Requires some very decent drivers, fans, heat sinks and of course a very beefy power supply....

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  • You need a deep cycle battery to start with, car batteries are totally useless here - that's why it dies so quick.For the panels you need a solar charge controller and it would be best to go for one that has 24V input so you can put the panels in series.Gives you a max of 20W.If they are protected with a diode you can also use a 12V charge controller and get 40W.Considering even the 40W would only give you a theoretical max of 3.3Amps 70Ah might be overkill.If you get 8 hours of really good sunlight you can charge about 25Ah.If your LED lights use more or run longer you might not be able to fully charge the battery - that is where the controller shuts off to protect the battery if the lights stay on.

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  • Can't go into all of your design details but maybe some of them...To save in height or width you can place the speakers either side of the box.To keep the directional properties you can use "reflectors" or simply a box-in-a-box design.I used this a few times for small desktop speakers but they used a tweeter, two mid range and one sub.Only problem I found when combining speakers in an array is unwanted disturbance.For this reason I prefer to use fully sealed speakers whenever possible only leaving the low frequncies to standard speakers and the problem of creating the righ enclosure for them.No matter how you wire your speakers it wil be next to impossible to have them all do the exact same thing at the exact same time.There was a slow motion video on Youtube showing this in a...see more »Can't go into all of your design details but maybe some of them...To save in height or width you can place the speakers either side of the box.To keep the directional properties you can use "reflectors" or simply a box-in-a-box design.I used this a few times for small desktop speakers but they used a tweeter, two mid range and one sub.Only problem I found when combining speakers in an array is unwanted disturbance.For this reason I prefer to use fully sealed speakers whenever possible only leaving the low frequncies to standard speakers and the problem of creating the righ enclosure for them.No matter how you wire your speakers it wil be next to impossible to have them all do the exact same thing at the exact same time.There was a slow motion video on Youtube showing this in a system with 8 speakers but I can't find the link anywhere, sorry.Another problem I noticed when it comes to "the perfect sound" is the frequency in relation to the internal space of the enclosure.Ok, too hard, let me try again:Especially at low frequencies you can only produce a proper soundwave if the space allows for a full wave to build up.For example at 10kHz you need little over 3cm to be able to fit the full wave into the enclosure.But at just 100Hz you already need 340cm to do this.That is where tubes and reflectors come into play to create a path that is long enough to support a full wave at the desired frequency.To get the most out of four broadband speakers it might make sense to use a crossover and different frequencies for each.This way you can use much smaller internal space for 3 of them and can use one for the low frequencies in a seperate internal enclosure to get the most "boom" out of it.I know it means much more additional calculations and internal (fully closed) walls but I think you could still be able to shrink the overall size a bit like this.Considering the power level I can't really recommend using the speakers as you suggest and without a crossover, at least not if good sound is prefered over just loudness.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's forum topic Flea treatment for our pets....3 weeks ago

    I had a big python years agon and the cats got along well with it.Although I never let them all run free in the same room due to being concerned the cats might injure the snake.They are costly when it comes to the vet...

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  • Google is your friend, same for Youtube and quite a few Instructables on the topic ;)

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  • Goodbye Moshi or how to run your laser printer on Arduino

    Last but not least a little update on the stalled progress here:I had to move house and am now quite limited on space and options until I find a suitable new home.The landlord does not allow me to use the laser as he claims it is a fire risk and the fumes will cause the room to stink.All based on a subsection of the rental agreement stating that I need approval from the landlord if using any kind of stationary machines :(This gave me some time for other projects that are still in the developing phases but also to re-think the approach here.I mean we already showed that a cheap chinese laser can do much more than advertised once converted with a "better" controller, but the hardware is still '$%&*"....One of the big downsides IMHO is the size of the workspace with only...see more »Last but not least a little update on the stalled progress here:I had to move house and am now quite limited on space and options until I find a suitable new home.The landlord does not allow me to use the laser as he claims it is a fire risk and the fumes will cause the room to stink.All based on a subsection of the rental agreement stating that I need approval from the landlord if using any kind of stationary machines :(This gave me some time for other projects that are still in the developing phases but also to re-think the approach here.I mean we already showed that a cheap chinese laser can do much more than advertised once converted with a "better" controller, but the hardware is still '$%&*"....One of the big downsides IMHO is the size of the workspace with only the clamp for thicker things and the less than vibration free x-axis system.With currently over 150 likes I can only assume that more than a hand full of people tried this with their machine - and I Like it!But let's talk options for a change:By now you already realised the potential of your refurbished toy and might want to do even more.An adjustable work table would be great or not?Something that actually provides a proper enclosure so the fumes are all extracted instead of polluting your room might be nice too?But how about all the above plus a much bigger area to work with? ;)We are not afraid to modify our laser cutter and most of us are not afraid to use tools either, so let's combine those skills.Think with me now and read again from here if you struggle to follow.The actually work area is mounted to the frame holding the rest of the machine.Making it a systems that is limited to the physical dimension of the rails inside.Industrial systems work in a similar way but without the enclosure.Thankfully the chinese copied the industrial system in the cheapest way possible instead of designing something based on a printer.This means we can quite easy upscale working area up to the limit where the laser beam becomes too wide for the lens to handle due to thedistance from the source.My current idea would require a custom mounting system for the tube and custom rails for the mirrors and lens.The hobby CNC projects already showed that you don't always need expensive linear rails to achive good accuracy and also that you can make normal stepper motors run quite fast with a 32bit processor behind them.The current firmware already allows for the implementation of a height adjustable table, even with automatic bed levelling if required.But instead of lifting the work platform we could lift the entire frame.And for really big work pieces we could simply place the laser directly onto it - flat surface permitting.No more cutting by hand of these big sheets, just put the machine directly on it and do what you need without any waste to throw away.Downside is that instead of having a unit with lid and exhaust van you need to build a suitable sized housing.Here I was thinking of a big enclosure similar to sand blasting cabinets with these brush strips on the front and side to allow feeding bigger sheets without compromising on the fume side of things.Once the cheap laser tube is burnt out such a system makes it quite easy to install a 100 or even 200W tube instead of the 40W one to actually work with some metals.Let me know what you think, post your ideas or comments on this and let's work together to make a reall big laser cutter.

    The only clue I have here is the one that was already true for all the 3D printing firmwares out there.Get the right IDE version and the right libraries together.The code must compile with no significant error that would cause a stop.In 99% of cases when I encounter problems with code posted somewhere that is known to work I simply try different versions of the Arduino IDE.Real trouble only starts when mixing code from different projects or when just copying libraries from one IDE version to another.Try a 1.6 version for compliling and once you get the first error make sure to download the missing libraries for this version that correspond to the error - should be only two if they are not already included in the standard release.The rest should all be included in the files you got, espe...see more »The only clue I have here is the one that was already true for all the 3D printing firmwares out there.Get the right IDE version and the right libraries together.The code must compile with no significant error that would cause a stop.In 99% of cases when I encounter problems with code posted somewhere that is known to work I simply try different versions of the Arduino IDE.Real trouble only starts when mixing code from different projects or when just copying libraries from one IDE version to another.Try a 1.6 version for compliling and once you get the first error make sure to download the missing libraries for this version that correspond to the error - should be only two if they are not already included in the standard release.The rest should all be included in the files you got, especially the base64 stuff.Sometimes you can get into trouble if the IDE uses a library already included in the project that is different.Here you can manually load the correct library and override the default.

    Thank you very much for the pics!Great job on you end and I hope it will encourage more people to try it.

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  • Start with learning the basics first, plenty of info on projects can be found on Instructables and with a simply Google search.To make it short: The battery is useless for the task, the potentiometer can not be used like this.

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  • Downunder35m commented on poolm's forum topic Arduino and scavenged LCDs3 weeks ago

    No info, no pinout, no Arduino library - no use for the display.

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  • Downunder35m commented on peater's forum topic Extracting lead from car batteries?1 month ago

    Never, ever add water to a concentrated acid!!You mention the sodium hydroxide reaction - it only tells me the person doing it was brainless and used a concentrated mix.With your suggestion of adding water the water can boil into steam instantly - something you don't want....The only half-way safe way I can recommend is to use a battery hygrometer or similar to remove the acid from the battery and then to add the acid to some really cold water and doing this slowly.In any case I would not even attempt to get lead from old batteries as far too many toxins are involved, not to mention the hazards for the enviroment.

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  • Ok, makes more sense now :)I have only serviced something quite similar and maybe that's of help to you.Apart from the fact that is was to test wind generators it went like this:One motor (for me it was the generator - for you the one you want to test) drives another one with a "dead" load.The dead load in my case was a DC motor with a fixed wire resistor over the terminals to check the available power with an inductive load at a given wind speed.As you want to get some actual data in return you would need a calibrated motor for the testing - they are expensive.Of course you can just take a really beefy DC motor and increase it's load until the driving motor stalls and record the output voltage and current.Another way might be a magnetic brake, similar like those on modern exe...see more »Ok, makes more sense now :)I have only serviced something quite similar and maybe that's of help to you.Apart from the fact that is was to test wind generators it went like this:One motor (for me it was the generator - for you the one you want to test) drives another one with a "dead" load.The dead load in my case was a DC motor with a fixed wire resistor over the terminals to check the available power with an inductive load at a given wind speed.As you want to get some actual data in return you would need a calibrated motor for the testing - they are expensive.Of course you can just take a really beefy DC motor and increase it's load until the driving motor stalls and record the output voltage and current.Another way might be a magnetic brake, similar like those on modern exercise bikes.Here something spins in a magnetic oil (usually minereal oil with very fine, black iron oxide) with an external magnetic field the viscosity of the oil is changed to the point of the motor stalling.The voltage and amps required on the coil that modifies the magnetic field for the brake is the value to translate.All depends if you just needs figures showing relative data or if you need actual torque/hp readings for the motor in question.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Toga_Dan's forum topic Freeze Silicone ?1 month ago

    Silicone rubber stays flexible to about -50°C or -67°F - so for that nothing special required unless you need it to be warm.Silicone caulk is quite different, cured and uncured.Uncured it should not be frozen.The cured stuff, depending on the grade will go a bit harder at very cold temps but other than that be fine.I guess your plugs are made from silicone rubber so nothing you need to do to keep them safe.But if it gets below -90°F you risk breaking it when you bend or stretch them - I would not put them in my ears if that cold anyway ;)

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  • Goodbye Moshi or how to run your laser printer on Arduino

    I think you are not the only one struggling with the raster, so I will try to explain it in more detail:Inkscape can't really create complex rasters, a solid filling at a specified level of gray is fine but a photo for example won't work.For this you need to import the raster image into Inkscape.Best way to do this is to prepare the image externally so the size is already correct - but you can change that in Inkscape at any time.It makes sense to import or move the bitmap into a dedicated layer.If done this way Inkscape will recognise the image as a raster and same for the laser plugin.For true raster images the output is exactly what you have in the image - a burnt hole fore every single dark pixel.For a grayscale image or photo the laser intensity will be adjusted according to the pix...see more »I think you are not the only one struggling with the raster, so I will try to explain it in more detail:Inkscape can't really create complex rasters, a solid filling at a specified level of gray is fine but a photo for example won't work.For this you need to import the raster image into Inkscape.Best way to do this is to prepare the image externally so the size is already correct - but you can change that in Inkscape at any time.It makes sense to import or move the bitmap into a dedicated layer.If done this way Inkscape will recognise the image as a raster and same for the laser plugin.For true raster images the output is exactly what you have in the image - a burnt hole fore every single dark pixel.For a grayscale image or photo the laser intensity will be adjusted according to the pixel value.Here you need to play around a bit to get it right with the power settings as every machine and material is slightly different.For exapmle on cardboard I use a power level of 1100 as a max and play with the speed to prevent actually burning off the material.On glass I prefer to use raster images only at power levels around 1600 - 1800.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Aladin1122's forum topic GPS tracker for a kid watch 1 month ago

    And what exactly is stopping from doing some market research?Sure you don't expect us to put it together for you? ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on Toga_Dan's forum topic Freeze Silicone ?1 month ago

    AFAIK there is no chance to ruin silicone by cold temps.It goes a bit hard and stiff but that is all.With enough force you can rip it apart easier but I don't think it goes brittle or so.But all depends on the temperatures you encounter...If it is a problem make an Ible about a heated earplug box for winter use ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on Jayefuu's forum topic The Clinic1 month ago

    Well made and presented.But I have a suggestion:If you print with ABS you can not only get a polished surface by using ABS juice but also "glue" the parts together with the same.Superglue can and will fail under stress, especially in a humid enviroment.Hot glue is a bit better but I would prefer not to use on any of my models.ABS juice also works on PLA to some extent ;)If you still need to glue things it pays off to have a hole and pin system or similar for good alignment and additional strenght.

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  • 1+ Some my older kites did not use and solid connector at all.Makes it a bit weird as a first look but the benefits are there.Especially if someone with less experience tries to fly your kite LOLWith flexible mounts and rubber bands holding the rods in you always have a chance to avoid a total break of the carbon rods.

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  • You could just use a few neopixel LED strips ....

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  • Downunder35m commented on jackew's forum topic Automatic Coffee Cup Warmer1 month ago

    You have t understand the law.If it is hot enough for a decent coffee or tea than it is hot enough that it can burn you.That means a possible law suit so they lower the temp.Same reason why it is so hard to get a hot coffee in a fast food outlet.The heating is controlled with a simple bi-metal switch, they are available for a few bucks in almost any temp range.80°C should be fine here.Problem is that most of these units are not designed to be tampered with.Might be hard to remove the old one unless it is placed outside the heating coil.

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  • Usually adding a fence is no big deal - if you have the right tools at hand.Most people either buy the thing and make sure it fits or simply make one to fit.I don't know either of the systems you have but assume that with a bit of work it can be made to fit.Pics with details of the problem would certainly help.But if you want to sty safe in the legal sense of things I really recommend buying the right fence that is designed tobe used on the saw.For private use you get away with everything, on a jobsit a simple accident on a saw you modified could mean you pay for the rest of your life - something well worth considering if you ask me....

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  • I have done a few mobility scooter "transformations" to get rid of the old style batteries.In terms of range a change to a Li-Ion battery of the same voltage is always a plus -even if it just for weight you saved.The problems however are not just limited to changing to a suitable (and usually costly) charger.Li-Ion batteries don't like to be discharged below a certain level, which can happen if you have someone at the wheels who can't walk more than a few meters....As you still have two legs to work the bike I strongly suggest to put a battery monitor in the thing.Best to use one that automatically cuts the battery off once a certain voltage is reached.Li-Ion batteries are not even close to what proper deep cycle batteries allow and it will be costly to replace them.After two ...see more »I have done a few mobility scooter "transformations" to get rid of the old style batteries.In terms of range a change to a Li-Ion battery of the same voltage is always a plus -even if it just for weight you saved.The problems however are not just limited to changing to a suitable (and usually costly) charger.Li-Ion batteries don't like to be discharged below a certain level, which can happen if you have someone at the wheels who can't walk more than a few meters....As you still have two legs to work the bike I strongly suggest to put a battery monitor in the thing.Best to use one that automatically cuts the battery off once a certain voltage is reached.Li-Ion batteries are not even close to what proper deep cycle batteries allow and it will be costly to replace them.After two premature fails I installed battery cut off's that I set to about 0.5V over the rated limit of the installed battery.Of course I got a few rescue calls after that and for some people I additionally instally a LED battery gauge that was calibrated to show yellow at about 60% charge level and red with a little to spare to anyone home.

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  • Downunder35m commented on MukymooD's forum topic Mobile phone wind generator 1 month ago

    What matters is the nominal power consumption of the motor at the specified voltage.If you match this speed you will be pretty close to the input voltage.To charge a phone half decent you not only need around 2amp available but also the right voltages on tha data lines - I wrote something about this but Google will tell you what you need.

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  • Motors with a brake are for fast stopping or the slow and controlled release of a load.Quite common on certain industrial machines as a protection for the operator, same as a good angle grinder that stops within 2 seconds after shutting off.I am not sure what you actually want to test and without that any suggestions are pretty much useless ;)

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  • Goodbye Moshi or how to run your laser printer on Arduino

    The only thing I can think of that is different is the definition for the display controller.With the jog it is always a pain in the ...., you might need to change the stepping and sensitivity for it.If i remember correct it is set to just 1 by default.Increasing the steps to 2 or 4 might help to avoid unwanted clicks to register and make it work properly.

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  • I assume I am a bit too far away anyway but it would certainly help people to know in what geographical area their expertise is needed.Won't be of much help to find the right candidate at the wrong side of the globe ;)

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  • I was a carer for a bit over 6 years and faced similar problems obtaining products at a fair price.We got the tipp to register with a carers group.The benefit was that we not only got access to more ressources but also to commercial and clinical products far below the rate at the pharmacy - drugs excluded of course.About two years into this we got offered a 2 week "holiday" from a nursing service.When the girl came for a few days to check the routines and all she also came with a bag of goodies in the form of advise.One great thing she up her sleeve was to use a bottle of bathroom cleaner for soap - after a decent clean of course....The fine steel screen in front of the nozzle forms a lot of foam if the lever is pushed fast.Not as fine and dense as what you expect from clinica...see more »I was a carer for a bit over 6 years and faced similar problems obtaining products at a fair price.We got the tipp to register with a carers group.The benefit was that we not only got access to more ressources but also to commercial and clinical products far below the rate at the pharmacy - drugs excluded of course.About two years into this we got offered a 2 week "holiday" from a nursing service.When the girl came for a few days to check the routines and all she also came with a bag of goodies in the form of advise.One great thing she up her sleeve was to use a bottle of bathroom cleaner for soap - after a decent clean of course....The fine steel screen in front of the nozzle forms a lot of foam if the lever is pushed fast.Not as fine and dense as what you expect from clinical saop foam but far superior to a bucket of water and cheaper than commercial solutions.The "soap" we used was a mix of just a few basic things I found on a natural living website.Can't remember all of it and the website seems to be no longer existing but we changed it a bit anyways.The base was made from PH balanced liquid soap suited for cleaning all sorts of allergic or otherwise damaged skin areas - like baby bath.Took a bit of experimenting to get the correct amount of water so it is best to start with less and add until all good.Further stuff we mixed in included:A few drops Glycering - makes much better foam and helps to moisturise the skin.One to 3 drops of Oragange oil - great smell and really helps during the summer to clean sweatty skin areas, like those on the back.About a teaspoon of Aloe Vera extract - I only added it as it is good a friend of mine was making it, so I had an easy and free supply.Chamomille tea - This was suggested by our nurse to help with areas where sking ot red or sore. Simply make a glass of tea and use this as the start to dilute the soap mix.We were both quite happy with this cheaply made soap and maybe with a proper foam dispenser the foam quality could be wastly improved.Maybe something like Lightellen suggested....

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  • So you want to install a dead OS onto a "computer" where you won't be able to find drivers for....Might be good if you check how these operating systems work then you could have answered the question yourself ;)

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  • If you have no experience it would be best to start small or seek advise/training in a dedicated club.Someone with good knowledge and a few kites will do as well ;)The biggest delta I had so far was 4.1m wide and 2.8m from the ground to the tip when standing upright.But I sold it after about a year as it was just a little too big to fly anwhere with people, animals or other kites around.Had 70m of line and the usual flying day on a dedicated kite field would go like this.Waste an hour setting all up and clearing the launch are from spectators.Fly a few minutes and then listen for the rest of the day to people complaining that I cut their kite line(s) with mine.My usual response was: If you are dumb enough to launch yours right under mine then don't expect me to land....

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  • Can only go from my use of the parts I know:1. Image: Endcaps to be glued into carbon fibre rods for protection, mainly used on rods that are not connected otherwise.2. Image: Stop rings. I used them where I did not want to use glue (adjustment possible) like when building a new kite.3. Image: No clue, never used them.4.....5.....6. Image: Sliding mount. Used to mount swivels when fishing and sometime for box kites to make assemble easier.Last 4 are various joiners and caps.The cross one for centre rods to form a cross, the rubber ones are stoppers for the ends of rods when they rest on the fabric - protects both rod and fabric.The last is a nothed endcap used to attach a line through the notch so you get enough tension on the fabric, I use them on my big one to have some support rods r...see more »Can only go from my use of the parts I know:1. Image: Endcaps to be glued into carbon fibre rods for protection, mainly used on rods that are not connected otherwise.2. Image: Stop rings. I used them where I did not want to use glue (adjustment possible) like when building a new kite.3. Image: No clue, never used them.4.....5.....6. Image: Sliding mount. Used to mount swivels when fishing and sometime for box kites to make assemble easier.Last 4 are various joiners and caps.The cross one for centre rods to form a cross, the rubber ones are stoppers for the ends of rods when they rest on the fabric - protects both rod and fabric.The last is a nothed endcap used to attach a line through the notch so you get enough tension on the fabric, I use them on my big one to have some support rods removable and to be able to assemble the thing much faster.I guess Kiteman will be answer to all the rest you might want to know....

    Just did a few kites of all sizes and sorts in my early years ;)I really liked the notched pieces for the bigger kites, push rod in, pull rubber band over, done.

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  • No problems here, it is just what I get as Emails from Instructables.Like when notifying me about new answers to topics and questions.

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  • That is what I get and the links are just plain text, useless in this form.

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  • Downunder35m commented on swiftshawns's forum topic F150 Door Lock Jammed1 month ago

    Hmmm....And I always thought:If in doubt use C4....;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on Cat00x's forum topic Broken Instructable PDF download1 month ago

    Your attached file opens just fine here but it is empty.But downloaded directly from the Instructable results in complete and usable file.Maybe your download just got corrupted?But unless you are a premium member you won't be able to download the file.

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