author
48Instructables378,575Views3,015CommentsAustraliaJoined June 11th, 2009
I like to improve myself and things I find :) Learning new things every day is next to impossible but I still try - only a working brain can work. I have no special sector to cover, electronics, electrical stuff, 3D printing, restoring old clocks and furniture. Whatever sounds interesting I try it. In my spare time I love to fly big kites, go fishing or simply go bush in 4WD to find a good fishing spot. Active spam fighter!

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  • If talk about the illegal business of monshine then you are doing something wrong if you need to ask thi question.

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  • Downunder35m commented on 56Frank's forum topic Arduino Motor Control Shield 1 day ago

    I can only give one advise:Chek what version of the IDE is recommended for the shield in question - or for the corresponding liraries.You can load the libraries eiher at runtime through the menu or include them with a call in yor code, the later often causes problms if not everything s fully matched.

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  • Downunder35m commented on BibekP4's forum topic coMBINING ARDUINO SKETCHES2 days ago

    And why is this a bug affecting this website?

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  • X96 (S905x) Android TV Box - Updating the Firmware and Costom Roms

    Thing is that you need to match the required partitions for libreelec/your box.Some builds are available for S905X boxes but they won't work on all due to the above problem.I gave up on trying to make the box compatible to other boxes as parts of the partition structure are not easy to modify on a user level.But if it is of any comfort to you:I did some tests with different SD's and USB readers.My best combo is with the Meenova Dash Micro and a genuine Sandisk rated for 40mb write speed.Turned out to boot faster than the memory used in the box....

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  • Get a cheap remote controlled car or something with some extras like a rocket launcher, lights, siren...Can be found cheap second hand or new online.All you need is in there.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Brennn10's forum topic 10 Best Electronics Suppliers5 days ago

    Check Littlediode, from some forums they are recommended for actually having the stock available they list.And if they do get a handful and sell with profit on Ebay ;)

    I see you have the same problem most of us have when hunting old parts :(Often with obsolete parts they got a modern day replacement that either does the same or even more.Problem is back in the day noone really cared about datasheets or real documentation about IC's used.You get a number in the parts list and that's it.But since you are not alone with the problem and vinyl is coming back there might be a chance in some dedicated forums.Someone might have found a source and was forced to buy more than he needed or has schematics for using a modern a IC insted.Last but no least you could hunt the schematics and do the digging yourself, but it will take a lot of time and bring more frustration.

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  • Downunder35m commented on stannickel's forum topic Tips and Hints5 days ago
  • Downunder35m commented on Brennn10's forum topic 10 Best Electronics Suppliers6 days ago

    Found a German website first:http://www.electronicpool.de/list/index_M_S_MSM583...and one that I think should be in US:http://precisionlogicinc.net/parts/msm-5831-rs

    Good luck with your turntable, nothing beats vinyl ;)

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  • Convert a 3D Stuffmaker Mega Prusa Into a Working 3D Printer

    I still have it, not set up at the moment though due to other commitments.

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  • IMHO it all depends on your level of skill, budget and need for ongoing support.I did build mine from scratch, so cheapest option and no support at all.If support is important go for something that might cost a few bucks but is know for proper support, like Not_Tasha suggested.There is always the problem of how to get started and for someone with no clue it is good advise to buy something fully assembled and at least half way calibrated.A bit of finetuning is always required after transport but at least it should print right away.Buying a printer that needs (partially) assembly might bring problem that you can't solve without some background knowledge.Upgrades are also well worth to consider.Most budget printers come with only one print head and no way to add another.Being able to use t...

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    IMHO it all depends on your level of skill, budget and need for ongoing support.I did build mine from scratch, so cheapest option and no support at all.If support is important go for something that might cost a few bucks but is know for proper support, like Not_Tasha suggested.There is always the problem of how to get started and for someone with no clue it is good advise to buy something fully assembled and at least half way calibrated.A bit of finetuning is always required after transport but at least it should print right away.Buying a printer that needs (partially) assembly might bring problem that you can't solve without some background knowledge.Upgrades are also well worth to consider.Most budget printers come with only one print head and no way to add another.Being able to use two allows not only for different colors but also to use cheap support material and the good stuff on the other nozzle for the actual print.

    Sorry, don't know them, so could only go by what you did - reviews.

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  • If you leave a reply it should come up to the top again.

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  • Don't get me wrong, being honest is a good thing but it also shows how contests can go wrong...If all your winning entries are different enough then I don't see a problem - if it is that good that you win with it it is deserved.But if it is like you say and all are basically identical then I have to wonder how that got missed during the final stages....

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  • Drinking water is a whole different story, especially on a residential level.Proper multi stage filtration does far more these days than what most people think.If you need more water quality than what comes out of your tap the best option is to check with the supplier first.And of course to compare the quality on a tap close to the meter to rule out problems with the plumbing in the house.Where I am we get the water from three different storage dams, depending on water levels subsidised with "water" from a desalination plant.That means the taste and sometimes the color is slightly different then what you got used to.Many people here use water filter systems at least for the kitchen taps but they also love to totally neglect them.Had cases where they complained the water pressu...

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    Drinking water is a whole different story, especially on a residential level.Proper multi stage filtration does far more these days than what most people think.If you need more water quality than what comes out of your tap the best option is to check with the supplier first.And of course to compare the quality on a tap close to the meter to rule out problems with the plumbing in the house.Where I am we get the water from three different storage dams, depending on water levels subsidised with "water" from a desalination plant.That means the taste and sometimes the color is slightly different then what you got used to.Many people here use water filter systems at least for the kitchen taps but they also love to totally neglect them.Had cases where they complained the water pressure is down.Turned out the filters were totally blocked and already growing algae inside....

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  • Downunder35m commented on Brennn10's forum topic 10 Best Electronics Suppliers1 week ago

    Try Ebay, you often find really old stuff from sellers in Poland, Russia and around.They seem to have the hobby of dismantling old electronics and buyingold stock to sell again.But if you would specify the IC you need someone here might be able to help.

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  • I don't have a solution out of my head but maybe a way to get you going:Since you got it working with one I assume you mean one sensor and one display.If I understand correctly you want to use two 7 segment display to display duble digits.Your code reflects tow displays already, so do you need help getting two segments to work or getting two modules AND two segments to work on one Ardunio?For the later there is a way of many:Simply copy the required code and add the required variables and pins to your code.So instead of defining pins for one module and two segments you do so for two modules and four segments.Match the variables so they match the different modules and outputs.You can clean it all by combining corresponding tasks instead of simply adding them to the end of your code - as ...

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    I don't have a solution out of my head but maybe a way to get you going:Since you got it working with one I assume you mean one sensor and one display.If I understand correctly you want to use two 7 segment display to display duble digits.Your code reflects tow displays already, so do you need help getting two segments to work or getting two modules AND two segments to work on one Ardunio?For the later there is a way of many:Simply copy the required code and add the required variables and pins to your code.So instead of defining pins for one module and two segments you do so for two modules and four segments.Match the variables so they match the different modules and outputs.You can clean it all by combining corresponding tasks instead of simply adding them to the end of your code - as you must do anyway for the definitions and pins.

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  • Well I wrote it down so noone needs to remember it all.And I did not specify fresh or salt water as makes no difference in this case.If you check again you will notice i mentioned to use just filter wool and activated carbon during a long UV treatment for curing an outbreak.Just so most of the really bad stuff is out when putting the original filter material back - really helps a lot as you then still have good bacteria in the filter to get going.And yes, I also mentioned that you don't need a UV system for a fit and healthy tank ;)I mainly wrote all this so people who consider getting a UV system due to the hype can see some facts first and get the chance to avoid ever needing one :)

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  • Downunder35m commented on plucas1's forum topic solar install question1 week ago

    That is the only good thing about being ina country with more UV and sun than you can handle.Solar is an option, even during the winter times if created with suffient overkill.

    For around $5000 AU you can get a complete off grid installation package from several companies down here.This is for something in the 4kWh range including batteries, warranty and all.you 2 150Ah batteries won't get you far unless you really go on a low profile with your power consumption.Keep in mind that special batteries are used for the demands of real off grid use.These off grid solutions come with everything you need, including fuses, so you only need to wire up the one or two lines for your outlets and lights.If you ask me well worth to consider if you really need a reliable power supply with all safety features and certifications required to meet AU standards.

    That is why I pointed out the problems with these cheap solutions.The case and prints might change but no matter where you buy them their design gives them away.As said I still have two of them and it it seems to be time to find them and post some pics of the cheap internals LOLDown here going solar was highly promoted and subsidised and with the overproduction in asia prices a still at a low.If you compare the price for what you really need to build your own solar system properly to the 2 or 4kW solutions offered as a package then there is only one option.You can't beat them because they buy in massive bulk loads and if you order a off grid version for self install the price is even cheaper.In either case I recommend checking local forums for what they use or to seek out real reviews o...

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    That is why I pointed out the problems with these cheap solutions.The case and prints might change but no matter where you buy them their design gives them away.As said I still have two of them and it it seems to be time to find them and post some pics of the cheap internals LOLDown here going solar was highly promoted and subsidised and with the overproduction in asia prices a still at a low.If you compare the price for what you really need to build your own solar system properly to the 2 or 4kW solutions offered as a package then there is only one option.You can't beat them because they buy in massive bulk loads and if you order a off grid version for self install the price is even cheaper.In either case I recommend checking local forums for what they use or to seek out real reviews of the inverter you can buy before you buy it.If you can use Google properly but can't find anything but sales listing then stay away.

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  • I suggest you check what you know first and go from there.You say you have no problem getting the right frequency - how do you know that without confirming it?No display means no info and a garbled serial result does not mean the data is correct.You get in the serial monitor what is transfered, check by adding some lines to your code to send "Hello world" along with it.If you don't see hello world in the serial monitor as intended it means you have a problem.This can be the way you provide or send the data but I doubt a power problem.To me it sounds you don't really understand what you are doing and how to check your code and data input/output.As said, start by showing your data on a LCD and go from there.

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  • +1Couldn't say it any better....

    Only way I know goes somehow like this:Open the full preview of your draft and zoom the page so it fits into the width of your screen.Export or save the preview page as HTML and share it like that by Email or so.

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  • Downunder35m commented on mknorr's forum topic HDMI from LCD connector1 week ago

    Check how HDMI works, what is all used within the protocoals and than ask yourself how to get this into a display connector.Not to mention the problem of getting the signals right to match the resolution either way.

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  • Downunder35m commented on jimmytvf's forum topic LED indicator for A/V selector1 week ago

    If that would be the case then SV switches with indicator lights would have a massive amount of electronics inside and a huge price tag outside ;)The transistor interferes with your signals for the video ;)

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  • If the frquency is stored then you should be able as a first step to show it on a display.Can be any simple LCD for the Arduino.Have the frequency read and the display updated every 50-100ms.Using a display is really helpful as you eliminate the problem with coding the right stuff for a serial connection - get the basics right first before you add more ;)Once you can show the frequency of the tone you play the same values can be used to update the display AND the data for the serial connection.You basically send the frequency as a number value or encoded as a string and the serial monitor will produce a very long list that scrolls through.From there and with a bit of BASIC of VB scripting you create a little program that uses this serial data to update the info for your computer to show...

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    If the frquency is stored then you should be able as a first step to show it on a display.Can be any simple LCD for the Arduino.Have the frequency read and the display updated every 50-100ms.Using a display is really helpful as you eliminate the problem with coding the right stuff for a serial connection - get the basics right first before you add more ;)Once you can show the frequency of the tone you play the same values can be used to update the display AND the data for the serial connection.You basically send the frequency as a number value or encoded as a string and the serial monitor will produce a very long list that scrolls through.From there and with a bit of BASIC of VB scripting you create a little program that uses this serial data to update the info for your computer to show it as a changing value on the screen instead of scrolling down.

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  • Downunder35m commented on jimmytvf's forum topic LED indicator for A/V selector1 week ago

    It won't work as easy as you want it to as any addition to the signals will cause problems with picture quality.But there is a simple "workaround" to the problem at hand, which I used years ago when I needed to get feedback from microswitch positions.I assume you have the standard slider-type-selector switch.Meaning it has three different positions which are slected by pushing it around - not a knob or "on-0off" flick type switch.You can cut a piece of thin plastic to act as a repeater for another switch - even turned 90° to hide it all on the inside of the box.Plastic strip has two matching holes for the switch pin you operate with your fingers.When you select a channel the slider will also push or pull the other switch.From that second switch simple wire some L...

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    It won't work as easy as you want it to as any addition to the signals will cause problems with picture quality.But there is a simple "workaround" to the problem at hand, which I used years ago when I needed to get feedback from microswitch positions.I assume you have the standard slider-type-selector switch.Meaning it has three different positions which are slected by pushing it around - not a knob or "on-0off" flick type switch.You can cut a piece of thin plastic to act as a repeater for another switch - even turned 90° to hide it all on the inside of the box.Plastic strip has two matching holes for the switch pin you operate with your fingers.When you select a channel the slider will also push or pull the other switch.From that second switch simple wire some LED the way you like it.It is cruicial not to have too much play in the holes to avoid the problem of not getting proper contact.

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  • Bit more details please...Are you trying to establish the connection between the mac and xmc first?If so: does it work, meaning can you send commands that are being recognised and followed?I don't do any rotten fruit products, but I know from past experience that communication starts with the basics.For the XMC to be able to read from a hdd in your mac it must first be able to communicate with the mac.From there is is back the basics and if still required figuring out where exactly the problem happens.

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  • Downunder35m commented on mknorr's forum topic HDMI from LCD connector1 week ago

    You can't and HUD is a Head Up Display, for example the stuff that brings your speed onto the windscreen.Head mounted screens these days are usually VR goggles.

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  • Downunder35m commented on somedumbguy1274's forum topic Speeder 1 week ago

    Well, let's see....With frame, engine(s), tank, fuel and all I assume a total weight of 250lbs.One decent turbo jet engine for the lift a second and smaller one for the thrust.You can check the usual hobby RC plane fan sites for sizes available in good turbines.Both engines need thrust and vector control, so be prepared to spend some hours in your workshop making the titanium thrust outlets and connecting rods.Last but not least you will need a decent microcontroller to adjust the thrust and vector based on vehicle speed, angle and operator controls.The coding can be a bit tricky, so it really helps to study a few chapters of basic rocket engeneering, not the hooby stuff, the ones with guidance systems.Based on your skills and how well you can source secend hand stuff I guesstimate the ...

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    Well, let's see....With frame, engine(s), tank, fuel and all I assume a total weight of 250lbs.One decent turbo jet engine for the lift a second and smaller one for the thrust.You can check the usual hobby RC plane fan sites for sizes available in good turbines.Both engines need thrust and vector control, so be prepared to spend some hours in your workshop making the titanium thrust outlets and connecting rods.Last but not least you will need a decent microcontroller to adjust the thrust and vector based on vehicle speed, angle and operator controls.The coding can be a bit tricky, so it really helps to study a few chapters of basic rocket engeneering, not the hooby stuff, the ones with guidance systems.Based on your skills and how well you can source secend hand stuff I guesstimate the build costs for the first prototype at around $250000US.After the usual failures the final version might be around the $400000 mark.Please do take enough pics along the way and provide a nice Instructable once you got lift off!

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  • If you only need "normal" power levels for the microcontroller then a simple 5V voltage reulator like the 7805 will do, available for currents up to 1A and a bit more with a heatsink.

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  • Had that problem myself a long time ago and solved itself by submitting the Ible on the next weekday instead of the weekend.Sometimes all it takes is a humans touch but these are often busy with family and things like that during the weekend ;)

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  • X96 (S905x) Android TV Box - Updating the Firmware and Costom Roms

    I have the K400 myself and no such problems, did you try the other USB port?

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  • Downunder35m commented on pmottern's forum topic circuit board repair question2 weeks ago

    You can replace it with a similar jack and then follow the ripped of trace to a point where it is still on the circuit board.Scrape the paint off and use a thin wire to connect from there to the contact on the headphone jack.

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  • X96 (S905x) Android TV Box - Updating the Firmware and Costom Roms

    Wouldn't have a clue as the genuine one comes with WiFi by default.Flashing one of the above roms might help, but only if the thing really is the same internally - if not you might end up with a paper weight.

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  • Not too bad for some features although I fail to see why it has to be online.Offering something like this as a standalone app for PC, Android and IOS would make more sense in terms of using it for control of the arduino.I mean having a graphical interface showing values is nice if you need it but being able to use it as input would be even better.Auto complete might be nice too but it is not always correcet and in many cases more confusing than helpful - just my opinion though.Still as a gimmick for newbies a good thing to have.

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  • Downunder35m commented on AdvanŽ's forum topic Night vision surveillance2 weeks ago

    I did some experiments with the cheap webcams I had left.Was mainly with the optics but anyway, here we go:Before you buy in bulk and start a lot of soldering it would be advised to check if the webcam in question works with IR ;)Take your TV remote as an example: It uses IR and if you place the diode towards the cam and press a button you should see a bright flash.Seeing just a small dot or a slight glow means the cam has an IR filter.Using bright enough IR LED's you might still see enough but removing the filter in this case will give far better picture brightness - at the expense of color quality in normal light.Getting a cheao 0-lux camera module might be cheaper in the long run.

    There really is not much to it, basically the same as for any other (colored) LED out there.Last time I did something similar I could not be bothered with creating a circuit board, so I used a small sheet of acrylic plastic and a drill...Long story short:Printed a "degree wheel" of the right size and glued in onto the sheet.(A dregee wheel has lots of rings and lines for every 5 or 10 degrees of a circle - great for making circular patterns ;) )Drilled the holes where rings and lines cross in the diameter of the LED's, in my case 5mm.Using this on another sheet of paper I transfered he holes into dots using a marker.This paper template was then used to draw lines indicating how to wire the LED's.LED's pushed into the holes, legs bend and then soldered together to get sets to m...

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    There really is not much to it, basically the same as for any other (colored) LED out there.Last time I did something similar I could not be bothered with creating a circuit board, so I used a small sheet of acrylic plastic and a drill...Long story short:Printed a "degree wheel" of the right size and glued in onto the sheet.(A dregee wheel has lots of rings and lines for every 5 or 10 degrees of a circle - great for making circular patterns ;) )Drilled the holes where rings and lines cross in the diameter of the LED's, in my case 5mm.Using this on another sheet of paper I transfered he holes into dots using a marker.This paper template was then used to draw lines indicating how to wire the LED's.LED's pushed into the holes, legs bend and then soldered together to get sets to match the resistors.After that a drop of superglue next to each LED to hold it in place and then all tested.Finally sealed with with aquarium silicone to make it waterproof.In your case it would pay off to check each LED first and to sort them according to their electrical values.Ok, let me explain:To save on time, resistors and premature fails you want the LED's to be used in series to get to a certain overal voltage.For example the LED's are labeled for 2.2V and 25mA.If you want to use them with 12V you would need a of around 390Ohm with each of them - a lot of work and can become costly too.But if you can combine 5 identical LED's in series you get 11V for them and still only one resistor, make it six and you need no resistor as the LED's now would need 13.2V for full brightness.In return they thank you with a longer lifespan as they now operate just under max power - each LED gets 2V instead of 2.2V ;)However this only works properly if the LED's for each string of six are really identical.Since it will be next to impossible to check them for brigthness (really measured not just by eye) while checking the electrical values you can only use the later for comparison.No clue if you have a lab power supply and good multimeter, if so let me know and I explain how to test them.As an alternative if you don't have the means to electrically test them:Connect a string of them in series to a variable power supply, ideally a lab power supply.If you don't have one either go with what you have ;)Last resort would be a fixed 12 or 24V supply, the higher the better to safe time.Connect a lot of LED's series, for example:On a 12V power supply at least 10.Check with your cam how bright they are, add more until you only see a few of them light up very dim.Replace the ones you can see in the cam and put them aside - mark them as "early" for example.If none of replacements light up brigther then the rest in the string replace the lot - mark them as "test second".Once you are through your bulk pack you should have a hand full of "early" LED's and lots and lots of "seconds".Now do the same again but maybe one LED less in the string so you again see one or two LED's glowing brighter than the rest.Replace those and mark them as "early 2".Keep repeating until you are through your lot again.Now you should have more "early 2's" than "early" ones.If you repeat the test with the bulk that is left you should see that there is now very little difference in brightness to see in your cam.In this case they are ready to sort out the problem of mounting them.The two lots of early LED's are discarded for a big illuminator and you should only use the remaining lot of evenly sorted LED's.You can however check these early lots again the same way and if even enough use them for a smaller illuminator that might still give the same brightness with less LED's.Just keep in mind to use ne more LED in series than what is required to match your supply voltage ;)

    That is great news!You are lucky and should have little to no problems illuminating the area with IR so the cam can record properly.One hint though: Simply get an IR illuminator for cams ;)They come in 12V and have I think 48 or 96 diodes build in.LED's without a proper refelctor and lens depend on the angle of light they produce, so if you buy in bulk aim for those LED's with an angle of 10° or lower to get more distance.Also make sure to use "invisible" LED's, last thing you want is having a big red glow coming from the LED's at night ;)

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  • I took some time checking what contests are offered over the months and what sort of prices are offered.Not bad really :)Apart from having some people who seem to have winning contests as a job I also noticed from some feedback that not everyone is able to use prices as offered.This includes tools made for US mains power while the winner uses the 240V standard but also those who simply already have similar or better stuff than their price.Last but not least is the tax and customs problem that more and more international winners face.When a nice laser scanner was offered as the first price I checked for me in AU and was shocked.Due to the value of the cutter I would have to pay close to 1000$ AU to pick it up.My suggestion would be for winners from outside the US to offer an alternative ...

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    I took some time checking what contests are offered over the months and what sort of prices are offered.Not bad really :)Apart from having some people who seem to have winning contests as a job I also noticed from some feedback that not everyone is able to use prices as offered.This includes tools made for US mains power while the winner uses the 240V standard but also those who simply already have similar or better stuff than their price.Last but not least is the tax and customs problem that more and more international winners face.When a nice laser scanner was offered as the first price I checked for me in AU and was shocked.Due to the value of the cutter I would have to pay close to 1000$ AU to pick it up.My suggestion would be for winners from outside the US to offer an alternative to the price if import costs or the price itself is not good for them.Many of the big companies have headquartes or authorised dealers outside the US, it should be possible in some cases to offer shipping from within the country (or at least continet) of the winner to avoid shocking import duties for high value prices.Some companies, like Dremel, can be found in almost any hardware store around the world, so I checked with my local one.I was told it is no problem to take a gift order from such a company and to hand out the item to the customer after the identity is confirmed.I guess other stores might handle this in similar ways.Last but not least: Exchange of the price if everything else fails.Although I do realise this might not be that easy but anyway:Let's face it, someone winning a contest might already have all the tools and gadgets required to make it happen.Here the price might either collect dust or end up on ebay.A waste of ressources and postage costs if you ask me ;)It might be really nice for to some to be able to choose between the price or a gift card for an online sotre/service they can use in their country.Considering in such a case the postage costs are gone and the price itself can be sold as normal the gift card could be of equal value to the offical sale value of the price in question.Just my five cents on contests prices though....

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  • The rods only contain a small amount of Thorium, between 2 and 5%.It is also an alpha emitter so weak that the radiation won't penetrate your skin.So where comes the aluminium foil into place and where is your neutron emitter?

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's forum topic Pawpaw - to eat or not to eat?2 weeks ago

    Guess I have to wait a bit longer to answer that, fruits are still smaller than my pinky.But the do grow like the "banana" shape of the US one in the first pic.If you want the US version you can buy seedlings:https://www.daleysfruit.com.au/-North-America-Paw-...And since the AU pawpaw is a papaya the trees really looks different, more like a palm, while mine looks for leaves, flowers and so far the fruits like the US version.Once the weather dries up I will take a pic or two so you can check and compare - a pic is better than a thousand words ;)

    Where would be the difference apart from a slight taste difference?I can't even tell the differences between the different US variants as all pics look identical.All I know is it has green leaves and gets big fruits LOLNoone here knows when or who plated it - if it was planted at all.And since it is not native to AU it can be any variety out there, not that it would make a difference to the toxicity problem :(

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  • That is not really a basic task, more for the advanced classes...For example in the Marlin code for 3D printers (free) you have multiple displays to choose from, same for input methods, from encoder over buttons to small keyboards.I would start with something really simple, like getting multiple readings to show up on the display that change the value in real time.From there create a menu structure to give the sensor refresh you want.Of course you could also write the corresponding values into registers and include them in the refresh sequence for the display but again that would be advanced programming.There are a lot of Ibles that utilise a display to show infos, might be a good point to start and copy ;)

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  • Trucker's Hitch, THE Most Awesome Knot on the Planet!

    There are several examples available on Youtube, mostly those made as training videos for upcoming truckies.And so far I had to learn that there is no right or wrong with this knot as most who are stuck with a certain way never accept a different one LOLBasically it comes down to not making knots to get it together so that you have a chance to undo it.Keep in mind that you create a massive pull with this system and any normal knot will simply constrict and be next to impossible to get loose after 1000km on the road.

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  • Downunder35m commented on liquidhandwash's forum topic WTF!3 weeks ago

    It is as easy as the original from the Android easter egg ;)

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  • If you watched the videos already then you know there are quite a few possible approaches to the problem.In the basics it works like any other fibre seperating machine, like those for wool.Comes down to how fine you need the fibres.In the videos you can see the mechanism working that shreds the fibres.You don't need a 100% copy, just a motor strong enough.

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  • Depends on the type of cement you used.Usually the fine dust alone will cause irritation but that should not last for too long if you only had a small dose.Ready mixes however often contain added things and in some cases even very caustic things.Here you can have adverse reactions to it up to the degree where your lung and airway tissue get inflamed or worse.If in doubt consult a doctor and bring the labels of the cement with you.

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  • Downunder35m commented on THX 1138's forum topic Bearing/fulcrum for a pendulum3 weeks ago

    I don't know your skillset but:If you have a steel axle then you can simply use a brass bearing that is machined to match the axle.Good for really hard work and much simpler than a bearing - a lot of old machining tools use these types of "bearings".But IMHO a simply shackle will do the trick just fine unless you need much more rotation.

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  • Just get a cheap audio amplifier with the connections you need and put in there - that is if you can do without the display stuff...

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  • X96 (S905x) Android TV Box - Updating the Firmware and Costom Roms

    That is the Wifi system, indeed.What do you mean by Rom code???

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  • X96 (S905x) Android TV Box - Updating the Firmware and Costom Roms

    I doubt any update will help as you still need the touch support.Keep in mind it is for TV's not for touch devices.

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  • Downunder35m commented on aljaur's forum topic ball - on - plate PID controller 4 weeks ago

    I think that lack of control and understanding is exactly what Iceng means.Having a sensor and moving axis does not mean you have the understanding for the required calculations and calibrations required.And I fail to see how you can have trouble with the y-axis as the motion control would be exactly the same as for the x-axis.

    I am starting to think this is a school project or similar.Otherwise posting some meanngful pics or code would be a good thing...I saw something similar on the web as an automation project for students ;)There they would get a lot of parts, some of which are not really required and have to put it all together to make it work.Of course with own coding and all.Problem for the students in question is that they have use "PID control" for the axis movement and check the position of the platform only by means of a gyro sensor.The first challenge is to build a working platform as there are a lot of parts to choose from but only a few will really work together as planned.The final problem is that the students doing the coding need to find a way to shut off the positiong system to get ...

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    I am starting to think this is a school project or similar.Otherwise posting some meanngful pics or code would be a good thing...I saw something similar on the web as an automation project for students ;)There they would get a lot of parts, some of which are not really required and have to put it all together to make it work.Of course with own coding and all.Problem for the students in question is that they have use "PID control" for the axis movement and check the position of the platform only by means of a gyro sensor.The first challenge is to build a working platform as there are a lot of parts to choose from but only a few will really work together as planned.The final problem is that the students doing the coding need to find a way to shut off the positiong system to get a signal that relates to the movement of the ball and to turn it back on again with the required corrections.The term PID control in the project description can make you think it is only for the motor control.But in fact it is far more for the checking of the ball speed and platform position.For example:Platform leveled and ball in the true centre.Here nothing would be required as the system is stable.First hurdle to on the assignment is to make the platform center the ball and hold it there no matter where the ball is placed on the platform.Next is making the ball move in a controlled way without dropping off the platform.Usually it starts from stable with a square that is repeated a few times.The circle is to demonstrate how the PID control works to match the positioning speed to the movement of the ball.The more circles you can run in a set time the better your system will be.Final goal is to use a joystick, trackball or mobile phone to control the ball on the platform without it dropping because the user did something wrong.Like trying to dop it off by tilting the platform and leaving it in this position - here the code must make sure the ball is kept steady at the limit of what coding and mechanics can do.How well you score depends on smooth the ball is controlled and how stable the system is in terms of bad user input.Aljaur can feel free to correct me on the details of the assignment but I think I am pretty close unless his teacher does not aim for the full assignment ;)

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  • You did not mention what output you need, nor how strong your legs are.With no info on the the generator, speed and so on it is impossible to tall how much if any power comes out.No clue where you got the info on the destroyed motor but maybe whoever told you can explain why he or she thinks this way.Even a good street racer is lucky to make and hold any speed over 40 km/h for a long time, do the calulations for there to see how little RPM you actually produce this way ;)

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  • Well, in the industrial area you would simply get a 240V timer relay and connect to whatever you need.I don't know if the timer is being started with mains voltage signal or a low voltage one but these relays are available for 12, 24 and 240V, plus they come with a nice socket for easy connections and replacement.Instead of a 12V 50W lamp I would simply get a 240V LED lamp with integrated driver ;)

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  • Powerful Yet Simple Induction Heater

    If I would have that sort of access I would not revert to home made LOLReal ferrite is like ceramic and unless you just want to cut it it is a pain to work with.To make something new out of it you need to grind it first...

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  • Downunder35m commented on tshaf's forum topic spec a dc motor for a vehicle1 month ago

    Sounds like another school/contest problem to me....

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  • Might not be a standard IF ID system then.Could be as simple as these safety devices in supermarkets - they produce a detectabe signal just by means of a coil and capacitor.

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  • What do you mean by "machine" ?What frequencies/protocols does the capsule, machine and your readers support?

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  • Downunder35m commented on aljaur's forum topic ball - on - plate PID controller 1 month ago

    How can we help without knowing the details?Please provide some pics of the setup, your code and maybe a short video showing the actual problem with the movement.

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  • Downunder35m commented on PrashantV24's forum topic pic16f8871 month ago

    What exactly is your problem?Where in your code do you struggle?What exactly do you mean by "does not work well" ?You should include your code, a detailed description of your problem(s) and where you struggle - otherwise it is next to impossible help as we don't know what your goal is and what is stopping you ;)Most people these days use Aruinos or similar for their "programming", mainly because the supprt for modules and hardware is better.So give us what we need ;)

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  • Sign makers use plastic "waver board", no clue how the stuff is called.Basically looks like cardboard but instead of the wave pattern of the inner layer you have vertical strips connecting both sheets.The stuff is also available in good hardware stores but only in sizes of up to 2x1m in my area.Available in different thicknesses too and quite still and durable.

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  • If the thermostat is only for switching something on and off then check Middies.They are a wholeseller for electrical stuff here in VIC but I think they operate AU wide.For a few years now they also offer home automation stuff, mainly for the builders of new houses.I am quite confident these guys can help you to find what you need or at least point you to some company in your area that does that stuff.The other option of course would be to go through your existing home automation system.Usually you can get thermometers and thermostats for them too.And even if the output might not be rated to switch an AC on you can always add a relay to do the job.

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  • Downunder35m commented on RBaderG's forum topic Children's Electric Car1 month ago

    Check electric mobility scooters for their weight and speed.If i doubt wait at your favourite shopping center ans ask they guys and girls driving them how fast and how far they can go with them.In case that is in the rage you have in mind check your local swap and trade favourites for used mobility scooters.You will need new batteries in most cases but the rest should be a more or less direct swap.The motor uses a chain drive, so the speed can be adjusted by using different sprockets within certain limits depending on the weight of your creation.Ifyour wheels are much bigger than you might want to try replacing the sprockets with those from a mountain bike but in reverse.So you have the big sprockets on your drive train and the smaller ones from the back whhel on your motor.Can be quite...

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    Check electric mobility scooters for their weight and speed.If i doubt wait at your favourite shopping center ans ask they guys and girls driving them how fast and how far they can go with them.In case that is in the rage you have in mind check your local swap and trade favourites for used mobility scooters.You will need new batteries in most cases but the rest should be a more or less direct swap.The motor uses a chain drive, so the speed can be adjusted by using different sprockets within certain limits depending on the weight of your creation.Ifyour wheels are much bigger than you might want to try replacing the sprockets with those from a mountain bike but in reverse.So you have the big sprockets on your drive train and the smaller ones from the back whhel on your motor.Can be quite helpful if you to get up and down small hills but needs some tinkering to make it work in the wrong direction.

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  • Downunder35m commented on nehmo's forum topic How make round 5" air duct valves? 1 month ago

    I have the same problem here and had it in my old house as well.All vent openings for heating and (evaporative) cooling are just open with no flaps or flow adjustments possible.Heat goes out the cooler tower like a chimney and of course the rooms you don't really want warm, like a bedroom, will receive the most heat.My first gas bill here was about $200 higher than what I feared and maybe my simple fix can help you until you find what you are looking for.The vent outlets for the cooling in the ceiling have smaller squares with flaps but they can't be fully closed.I simply cut some cardboard to match and placed it between the frame and the smaller outlets.Since it is a solution for several months I was not too bothered to cut a few squares and use a step ladder.Different story though for...

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    I have the same problem here and had it in my old house as well.All vent openings for heating and (evaporative) cooling are just open with no flaps or flow adjustments possible.Heat goes out the cooler tower like a chimney and of course the rooms you don't really want warm, like a bedroom, will receive the most heat.My first gas bill here was about $200 higher than what I feared and maybe my simple fix can help you until you find what you are looking for.The vent outlets for the cooling in the ceiling have smaller squares with flaps but they can't be fully closed.I simply cut some cardboard to match and placed it between the frame and the smaller outlets.Since it is a solution for several months I was not too bothered to cut a few squares and use a step ladder.Different story though for the heating outlets.Usually they have a metal flap where the duct pipe connects which allows for flow regulation.In this house there are only metal stumps left where these flaps were attached years ago.My outlets have a flat bottom with the pipe in the middle and the flat part either side is more than the pipe diameter.So I use two pieces of carboard and two rocks to fully close or partially open the air vents.Since noone uses a flashlight to check my vents I again can't be bothered for a better fix in a rental.However if you want a more permanent and flexible option check your hardware store, often you can get the part for your outlet with a manual operated flap.Around here this box is around $30 AU if in plastic and about 50 for metal.Not sure if you can get them small enough but for the round heating outlets you get the system with a screw flap, or better two flaps.When you twist the center the flaps move up or down and these do fully close.If you can find them in the right diameter it as simple as cutting the excess you don't need off and to glue the rest into your pipe opening.

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  • Downunder35m commented on bravoechonovember1's forum topic Collaboration 1 month ago

    Depends on what to collaborate on.... ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on ArsenyR's forum topic Advanced Helmet1 month ago

    If you don't know what a filter mask is I see the first problem.The seconds by asking about the VR headset as it would depend on the software not the headset.I think you are better off starting with the basics by either making a fancy looking helmet or by getting the gizmos to work that you want to use.After that think of how you combine them into one.

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  • Make Your Own Ferrite to Improve Magnetic Fields

    It is best to do some testing with fine sand first to save you the mess and money for the oxide ;)I started by dissolving the silicate in hot water.What no longer dissolved was filtered out with a coffee filter.Don't use boiling hot water as the conentration can goo too high and crystals will already form on the water when it cools - if it happens add a little bit of water and mix until the crystal disappear.Now add the sand/oxide into your form - a silicone mould works great as it is easy to clean and flexible, which is a big plus when you want to get the thing out.To help with the wetting you can add a drop of dishwashing liquid to the water/silicate solution.When adding the solution to the mould it should go through the sand/ferrite, if in doubt help by mixing it with a toothpick r s...

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    It is best to do some testing with fine sand first to save you the mess and money for the oxide ;)I started by dissolving the silicate in hot water.What no longer dissolved was filtered out with a coffee filter.Don't use boiling hot water as the conentration can goo too high and crystals will already form on the water when it cools - if it happens add a little bit of water and mix until the crystal disappear.Now add the sand/oxide into your form - a silicone mould works great as it is easy to clean and flexible, which is a big plus when you want to get the thing out.To help with the wetting you can add a drop of dishwashing liquid to the water/silicate solution.When adding the solution to the mould it should go through the sand/ferrite, if in doubt help by mixing it with a toothpick r stirring rod.With very fine oxide it might be necessary to mix it all in a container first until you see all oxide is wet.For this it is best to add the solution in very small amounts and to break down lumps when mixing.The curing is done in two steps.Or three if you have too much time ;)First air dry, but you can skip this if you got the excess solution off the surface.Second oven dry at below 90° Celsius to dry the mix and prevent boiling.This will take a bit, especially if the form is quite deep.Again it pays off to start with sand first and to use it for reference.E.g.: If the sand mix was fully dry and hard after 3 hours you be safe and add another 30 minutes to dry your ferrite.Last and worst step:With a silicone form you can crank the temp to just under 200° C to start the actually curing of the silicate.But it should not be required as the water trapped in the crystal structure will slowly evaporate at temperatures of just around 120° C.Going higher can help forming crystal structures with a higher density and strenght but at the risk of breaking the crystal by boiling the water out of them.Try and test what works best for your core but don't go over 150° C until the core is dry enough.The resulting core should be fairly stable but is hygroscopic, so youneed to add a coat of paint.For obvious reasons it is best to compact the mix once fully wet, you can use a wooden dowel, spoon handle or whatever suits here.A loose mix will be very porous and unstable when handled plus of course of very poor magnectic properties.You want just enough binder in a highly compressed mix to keep it all together.For really demanding jobs, like when winding wire on the core without a bobbin is required:Glass can help a lot for ring cores if you know how to cut glass tubes or bottles.Downside is the thickness and pain of making glass rings, so only really usable for massive sized cores or those that won't rquire a coil wound on them.I found that a wrap with thin strips of fine fibreglass and coating it with resin gives the best compormise for protection and added strength.

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  • Downunder35m commented on gio_13's forum topic wrist timer1 month ago

    I have one in my watch, why don't you get a proper watch and use it?Some only cost 20 bucks...My phone does it too by the way...

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  • Downunder35m commented on fosgate3's forum topic Can I add a pot? 1 month ago

    Hint:If a cheap detector does not even have a headphone socket it might not be worth trusting it ;)Having said that: Add a headphone socket if missing and use a headset with volume control in the line.You can still get them from quite cheap to quite expensive for the use with TV's.You wire it parallel to the speaker and the switch in the socket is wired into the positive speaker wire.When you plug the headset in the speaker is off and you can adjust the volume on the headset.If that is too loud stiil then you can add a resistor as mentioned by Jack.The positive side effect is that you get much longer battery and usage time with headsets compared to the built in speaker.My Minelabs might be a better model but has the same gain with a headset.About 5 hours with speaker, over 9 hours with ...

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    Hint:If a cheap detector does not even have a headphone socket it might not be worth trusting it ;)Having said that: Add a headphone socket if missing and use a headset with volume control in the line.You can still get them from quite cheap to quite expensive for the use with TV's.You wire it parallel to the speaker and the switch in the socket is wired into the positive speaker wire.When you plug the headset in the speaker is off and you can adjust the volume on the headset.If that is too loud stiil then you can add a resistor as mentioned by Jack.The positive side effect is that you get much longer battery and usage time with headsets compared to the built in speaker.My Minelabs might be a better model but has the same gain with a headset.About 5 hours with speaker, over 9 hours with headset on medium volume.

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  • Downunder35m commented on ArsenyR's forum topic Advanced Helmet1 month ago

    Have considered adding a VR headset and a filter mask to a motorbike helmet?Unless you want to pay someone his next house you will have little chance getting it done - just my opinion though.A VR headset can be coupled with one or more cams, sensor input and all but of course you would have to write some software for your needs and use a backpack with a powerful computer to process the data...

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  • I did not go into the making or illegal uses for the stuff for obvious reason but I just thought old stuff might get new uses ;)The legal side of higher concentrations is basically taking care that you can not easily buy anything that can be used directly for illegal purposes.Here in AU the pool grade stuff really is pure and without added chemicals, plus it is legally available at up to 50% concentration.35% is usually the max you can get without requiring legal documents in bulk.And no, neither selling, nor promoting to sell - just plain honesty about going back to living and cleaning with less harmfull chemicals.I think especially considering allergies of all sorts it might be good for some people to take a step and think about how things were done before we had all the TV ads for 50...

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    I did not go into the making or illegal uses for the stuff for obvious reason but I just thought old stuff might get new uses ;)The legal side of higher concentrations is basically taking care that you can not easily buy anything that can be used directly for illegal purposes.Here in AU the pool grade stuff really is pure and without added chemicals, plus it is legally available at up to 50% concentration.35% is usually the max you can get without requiring legal documents in bulk.And no, neither selling, nor promoting to sell - just plain honesty about going back to living and cleaning with less harmfull chemicals.I think especially considering allergies of all sorts it might be good for some people to take a step and think about how things were done before we had all the TV ads for 50 different cleaning products that we must have in the house. LOLI used KMnO4 extensively back in the day, both for legal and semi legal purposes but at least in AU it is now very hard to get in bulk quantities or at a decent price.As with many "good" things it landed on the index of chemicals that could be used to make drugs or explosives.When I wanted some fine zink powder to make my own anti-corrosion coating I had to resort to ging online and ordering from India as everywhere I asked here I was told I now need a permit to buy and posses zink powder below a certain mesh grade.Poltical correctness and "terror" protection have turned us into a nanny state where we might soon need a permit to carry our toolboxes in the car or to have a basic toolset for repair on board.I was already asked what reason I would have to carry a puncture repair kit in car by the cops.They tried to tell me it could be used as an illegal weapon despite being in a case with the plugs, glue and all - inside a drawer in the back of the car LOL

    Might be a good idea, considering...Title: What to do with hydrogen peroxide if you are neither a terrorist nor a drug cook!

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  • Glad it worked out so easy for you :)Sometimes it doesn not need much and it like with the forest...Often you can't see the forest because all the trees are blocking the view ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on thisisvlad's forum topic movie download doesnt work1 month ago

    You are right, although it seemd to work there is no actual file to download.Might be a good idea to contact support for that one or to post it again in the bugs section.

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  • Downunder35m commented on broow's forum topic Agility and reaction timer for sport1 month ago

    1+Should not be too hatd to get this into a small microcontroller like an Arduino.Back when I was in school our teacher even had a manual stop watch that stored 3 different lap times and the complete time - mechanical...

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  • Downunder35m commented on thisisvlad's forum topic movie download doesnt work1 month ago

    Seems to be a problem with the download button or how it is implemented as nothing happens hen I click on it.But doing a right click on the .mov files allows you save it on your computer.

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  • What attitude are you refering to if I might ask?You refuse to update to current software, which makes no real sense if the software is causing problems.And in case you are wondering: I started my computer life before the 8080's were available to the piblic, so I do know a thing or two about them ;)Websites were designed to be on top of current technology, at least up the point he person/company behind is capable and willing to do so.You want to know what the problem is, then I strongly suggest to check why your client was discontinued and what new protocols and features have been implemented in other clients in the meantime - especially in terms of security.If the problem persists with a modern email client I am certain the code monkey here will look into it.

    Well, if you use a dead program where all develpment stopped 3 years ago then you can't really expect the rest of the world to stay behind too?Update to a current client that support modern emailing and all will be fine ;)

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  • You need:1. A big chamber to hold the smoke.2. A fan mounted in the pipe from the nose to the storage chamber.3. A thicker pipe going to the mouth.4. A large enough opening for the mouth to allow for a very slow airflow.5. A way to control the fan speed.The fan can be a tiny 5V GPU fan try to avoid big models, 5 by 5 cm is enough and allows for the easy use of clear PVC hoses.Bit tricky to mount a square fan inside a round hose so if doubt mount it inside the storage chamber under the hose connection from the nose.Make sure the airflow direction is going inside the chamber!When the fan works the small diameter nose openings will cause a very high air speed going inside - good to get you smoke back ;)It pays off to have some straight pipe inside the nose to point directly at the lips.Due...

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    You need:1. A big chamber to hold the smoke.2. A fan mounted in the pipe from the nose to the storage chamber.3. A thicker pipe going to the mouth.4. A large enough opening for the mouth to allow for a very slow airflow.5. A way to control the fan speed.The fan can be a tiny 5V GPU fan try to avoid big models, 5 by 5 cm is enough and allows for the easy use of clear PVC hoses.Bit tricky to mount a square fan inside a round hose so if doubt mount it inside the storage chamber under the hose connection from the nose.Make sure the airflow direction is going inside the chamber!When the fan works the small diameter nose openings will cause a very high air speed going inside - good to get you smoke back ;)It pays off to have some straight pipe inside the nose to point directly at the lips.Due to the much bigger opening for the mouth the airspeed will be quite slow and the smoke comes out gently.Key is to have the right fan speed and diameter for the nose openings, so try to allow for the mounting of different diameter pipe ending in the nose.E.g.: Use a big diameter pipe to start with and if not fast enough use a pipe you slide into the first one.

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