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I like to improve myself and things I find :) Learning new things every day is next to impossible but I still try - only a working brain can work. I have no special sector to cover, electronics, electrical stuff, 3D printing, restoring old clocks and furniture. Whatever sounds interesting I try it. In my spare time I love to fly big kites, go fishing or simply go bush in 4WD to find a good fishing spot. Active spam fighter!

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  • 1+Only problem is to get them aligned properly.Might be easier to buy a $5 laser level with the cross already included.

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  • Downunder35m commented on ambientvoid's forum topic Momentary flashing lights14 hours ago

    Or do the same on Fleabuy...Plus there is still the option to salvage a cheap LED flashlight, most come with high, low, flash....

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  • If you check Google for "transistor motor directional control" or "bidirectional dc motor control" you should find plenty of examples including some words of explanation on how it works.

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  • All nice and good - if you have enough wind coming the right direction.And last time I checked air heats up when compressed, air cools down when pressure is dropped.So how again does the air compress through the bottle and still comes out that much colder?

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  • I have one too and found the perfect blower: Cpap machine ;)You know these breathing machines that people use when sleeping - sometimes you get them dirt cheap, usually when the owner died....Airflow can be regulated with a push of a button and stores the last setting, what more can you ask for....

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  • Unless you mean something different then a LDR is a light sensitive resistor...And instead of a relay you could use a simple transistor with a protection diode.

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  • Basic I/O operations, start in the Arduino Playground with one of the many example available and match it for the sensors you use.

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  • Buck converter...You can get them for step up, step down and step-up-down purposes.Quite cheap from Fleabuy too.But unless you just started to study this should have been covered in your lessons already....

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  • Downunder35m commented on -BALES-'s forum topic Ask A Maker4 days ago

    You might want to change the link for How to Create a Feature-Worthy Instructableas it is the same as for the First time author contest ;)Otherwise nice idea!

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  • From what I can see you are not using a direct link but something linked to Amazon.And the link works just fine to download this image.I suggest using the login page directly through your browser and to login there instead of trying to re-direct from Google accounts.

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  • There is your problem...15 Ohm is far too low for anything good with Arduino and no wonder it all heats up.You are pulling close to 170mA, which is too much for the Arduino anyway.And set up like this you will never get any temperature readings, just a tiny heater that actually should not even get warm....

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  • Downunder35m commented on cockleman1's forum topic Pdfs not downloading 1 week ago

    As I said in onther topic for this:Complain to Apple first.I fail to see the point of the whole world bending over for the rotten fruits every time the "update" something....

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  • If you salvage some driver door window motors with the complete switch setup you might have an easy going.Most of these use either endstops or the better ones a load control to "know" when the window has hit a dead stop or too much resistance like a hand or apple.Some of them even lock the switch in place and reset it once the window stops.I would prefer a model that utilises endstops but the load control should work for your purpose as well.All you need to do is wire it all back up to a 12V supply and do some tests.The switch in the console or door should have three connections, down, ground, up.Instead of the switch (once you figured the workings out) you use the timer output.So your relay gives a 12V signal to the former switch position and it works automatically.Just make ...see more »If you salvage some driver door window motors with the complete switch setup you might have an easy going.Most of these use either endstops or the better ones a load control to "know" when the window has hit a dead stop or too much resistance like a hand or apple.Some of them even lock the switch in place and reset it once the window stops.I would prefer a model that utilises endstops but the load control should work for your purpose as well.All you need to do is wire it all back up to a 12V supply and do some tests.The switch in the console or door should have three connections, down, ground, up.Instead of the switch (once you figured the workings out) you use the timer output.So your relay gives a 12V signal to the former switch position and it works automatically.Just make sure the power is turned off to the motor once it reaches the final position - that is why endstops are so handy here, you can use them to interrupt the power to the corresponding motor direction ;)

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  • 1. I would use a much higher resistor instead of the one you currently use - the change for the thermistor relates to temp, having too much current going through is what causes the heatup.In an ideal case the current going through the thermistor is not really worth to mention and won't cause any problems.2. If you are after temp readings this way IMHO it would be easier to "borrow" some code from the Marlin 3d printer software.Here all temps are controlled by PID control and rely on very accurate and fast temp readings.This is done through tables for the most common types of thermistors.By utilising this code and the tables for your type of thermistor you will get very accurate readings without and overheating problems of the thermistor itself.All thr ground work you still nee...see more »1. I would use a much higher resistor instead of the one you currently use - the change for the thermistor relates to temp, having too much current going through is what causes the heatup.In an ideal case the current going through the thermistor is not really worth to mention and won't cause any problems.2. If you are after temp readings this way IMHO it would be easier to "borrow" some code from the Marlin 3d printer software.Here all temps are controlled by PID control and rely on very accurate and fast temp readings.This is done through tables for the most common types of thermistors.By utilising this code and the tables for your type of thermistor you will get very accurate readings without and overheating problems of the thermistor itself.All thr ground work you still need to do to get more or less accurate readings was already done for you ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on colinstcharles's forum topic Switching1 week ago

    Neopixels come to mind here as they only need a single wire for the protocol.That is assuming you have a legal wiring for the lamps which includes the earth wire.

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    • Lead Acid Battery Care and How to Restore Them
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  • Good luck finding reasons to get one ;)

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  • Details, details, details - sadly none are provided to go with...

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  • Yes, Apple screwed up, so blame them first.I hate it when they they think the entire world needs to bend over for their new "inventons".

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  • Sorry but I can't follow...You say you use a thermistor to measure temp but state your thermistor is heating.Either you are doing something wrong or I missed the point here.

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  • A tiny 10µF will do too for the LED ;)For the monitoring on the Arduino you might want to consider a transformer.Similar to those on big amp meters or the "spy ears" for the old analog telephones.Easy to make from an old core found in many power supplies and filters.

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  • Downunder35m commented on dano9999's forum topic heat sensitive wall outlet1 week ago

    These problems usually hapen from overloading an outlet with badly corroded or worn out contacts.Happens even more often when people plug/unplug running devices.A very common problem down here with powerboards.Due to greedy landlords houses usually only have a bare minimum in power outlets so people are forced to use a lot of powerboards.I no longer buy them if they if I can't open them to inspect the contacts once a year or so.Learned my lesson when my toast smelled like plastic and smoke came up from the powerboard behind the toaster.Maintenance and care is all that is required to keep power outlets in a good working condition - that includes the mess of cables going into their back ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on VaanyaW's forum topic Prizes Announcement1 week ago

    Patience...Things around Instructables contests not always move very fast ;)Finalists are listed, then the judging starts, final words come from the sponsor and so on.Once all is done the winner are announced and listed on the constest page.They also get an Email about it.So know you are in the finals, then just wait a few days to see the winners announced or wait for the Email that let's you know how far you made it :)Oh: Depending on where you live and assuming you will win a price, don't expect it to arrive 3 days after the winners are announced :)

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  • I guess his project was a bit different to the original...

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  • Again a request with no info of any use to help :(Ever heard of a drone of multi-rotor-copter?No expert here but last time I checked they use a few of these motors...

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  • 1+ !The mobile app as it is now might not be of much use anymore but a new one for the sole purpose of composing and editing photos for the library would be great.I guess most people these days use their phones or tablets to take the pics for their Ibles...And if they are anything like me it ends by tranfering them to the computer/laptop or by using the browser on phone and struggling to find and upload the pics.Having a dedicated app to do basic editing and commenting on the images before uploading them into the library would really speed things up.

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  • Downunder35m commented on ambientvoid's forum topic Matching speakers to amplifier1 week ago

    You need a properly matched crossover to make it work, that's for starters.I don't know what you intent to do with it but when it comes to making a speaker system there is more than grabbing an amp and some speakers.The amp is unknown to me so I can't judge the audio quality for it.The speakers will certainly make noise with a suitable crossover but I am not certain that I would call the output music.You need to match the frequency range of the speakers with the crossover and for that use the right speakers.Unless you want to go for better 3-way system you need to experiment with the frequencies and cut off's for the crossover.With one low frequency speaker and one high frequency speaker your midrange might get a bit lost.By the way: The volume of the enclosure must also match the requi...see more »You need a properly matched crossover to make it work, that's for starters.I don't know what you intent to do with it but when it comes to making a speaker system there is more than grabbing an amp and some speakers.The amp is unknown to me so I can't judge the audio quality for it.The speakers will certainly make noise with a suitable crossover but I am not certain that I would call the output music.You need to match the frequency range of the speakers with the crossover and for that use the right speakers.Unless you want to go for better 3-way system you need to experiment with the frequencies and cut off's for the crossover.With one low frequency speaker and one high frequency speaker your midrange might get a bit lost.By the way: The volume of the enclosure must also match the requirements of the speaker in question to avoid distortions and other unwanted effects.

    By making it yourself to match the speakers and range you need or by getting one in a shop and selecting the speakers to suit.By checking the datasheet or using the volume of a very similar speaker case as reference.If the system is no match you stuff like you see on the road: A rolling boom box that makes the numberplate rattle but has no linear frequency range.Think of music like this: You want to be able to hear a full orchestra with all instruments pretty much the same way as if you were listenening to it live.4 channels either means 2 "mirrored" stereo signals or a front stereo with rear speakers for a semi-surround sound.You can add as many speakers to the output of the amp if the crossover has the support for it.There are commercial systems with more then 10 speakers pe...see more »By making it yourself to match the speakers and range you need or by getting one in a shop and selecting the speakers to suit.By checking the datasheet or using the volume of a very similar speaker case as reference.If the system is no match you stuff like you see on the road: A rolling boom box that makes the numberplate rattle but has no linear frequency range.Think of music like this: You want to be able to hear a full orchestra with all instruments pretty much the same way as if you were listenening to it live.4 channels either means 2 "mirrored" stereo signals or a front stereo with rear speakers for a semi-surround sound.You can add as many speakers to the output of the amp if the crossover has the support for it.There are commercial systems with more then 10 speakers per channel...

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  • Back in the days of slow hardware, small screens literally everyone programmed an app for their needs.Your favourite newspaper, the TV guide, soicail security services and even the local cinema - they all jumped on their own apps.Some of them evolved and a few I still use as the service over their respective websites gives me too much unwanted info.But for a site like Instructables I really have to agree that a mobile app is not really required anymore, so focussing on other things seems to be the right way.

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  • Lead Acid Battery Care and How to Restore Them

    You are neither getting into contact with the lead, it's byproducts nor the battery acid tself.So unless you are planning on dismantling your battery all should be fine.Still a pair of nitrlie gloves is always a good idea, same as wearing old clothes as there is always some acid residue on the screw caps ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on fixit-13's forum topic Cannot load page fully1 week ago

    Can`t reproduce it here on either system, all runs normal.I assume the problem is on your end or with your browser.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Makk4's forum topic Can I post this?1 week ago

    As long as the source is free, like Wiki there is no problem.Same for other websites as long as there is no advertising or commercial intent.Sometimes it it is easier to link to a website giving some details that are required instead of re-writing it all, especially if the owner of the site does not mind or it is free.

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  • Downunder35m commented on nixusinc's forum topic Homemade electric nail file2 weeks ago

    Some years ago there were TV ads for this type of "grinder".Basically a Dremel at low speeds but increased power with several attachments.That means it can't be too hard to find a place that sells similar these days.If in doubt through Ebay for under 10 bucks...Seems you spend too much time filing instead of searching ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on dano9999's forum topic heat sensitive wall outlet2 weeks ago

    You need to check the temp inside the connected device.Unless I missed something nothing simple will work for this.

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  • Simple trick to get your battery back to life again - battery restoration

    Apart from the fact that you provide a commercial link, which I consider spamming, you post bugus here!Epsom salt is a magnesium salt and will destroy the battery in no time at all.Sure you get a nice boost from the removal of sulfate build up but the acidiy wil be ruined and the electrolyte useless.The only way to restore a old lead acid battery goes like this:Bases on the size of a standard car battery you add 5ml of Phosphoric acid (rust remover is usually phosphoric acid but double check the label) per cell and then fill the cell with destilled water - no tap water, rain water or demineralised water.The phosphoric acid will remove the sulfate build up by a chemical process that turns the phosphoric acid into a salt plus a bit of water.For smaller batteries you 5ml while for truck or...see more »Apart from the fact that you provide a commercial link, which I consider spamming, you post bugus here!Epsom salt is a magnesium salt and will destroy the battery in no time at all.Sure you get a nice boost from the removal of sulfate build up but the acidiy wil be ruined and the electrolyte useless.The only way to restore a old lead acid battery goes like this:Bases on the size of a standard car battery you add 5ml of Phosphoric acid (rust remover is usually phosphoric acid but double check the label) per cell and then fill the cell with destilled water - no tap water, rain water or demineralised water.The phosphoric acid will remove the sulfate build up by a chemical process that turns the phosphoric acid into a salt plus a bit of water.For smaller batteries you 5ml while for truck or 4WD batteries you use more - or repeat the process after the next step:Once all cells are filled up the battery needs to be charged for about 3 days.Best to use a modern trickle charger or at least something with proper electronics to prevent overcharging and gassing.During the charging the sulfate on the battery plates is converted back to lead, so without charging it will take a long time in your car to do the same.Please keep in mind that this only works on physically fine batteries!!Use a flashlight and if you can see bulged plates, debris on the bottom or even holes in your plates then discard the battery.

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  • SLA's are bigger than Lithium cells that is for sure...My problem with "power packs" is that only too many of them fail to meet the advertisement after a few charging cycles.Size wise Litium is your way to go but leaves the question on what...If you feel comfortable with a power pack then go for it.I on the other hand might be tempted to try cheap alternatives like a series of old style mobile phone batteries.Each delivers about 2-3Ah @ 3.7V and they are slim and light...

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  • Get a little 12V deep cycle battery of 10 or 12AH and be done with it.Just needs a proper charger.

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  • Downunder35m commented on tjacobs5's forum topic Need singleboard windows pc ...2 weeks ago

    Check the hardware requirements, add about 20% and check what's available.But I think it will end up more like a laptop suitcase....

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  • Problem still is that the compressor needs the refrigerant to cool the motor, windings and actuall pump parts of the thing.You can only run them for about an hour until they get seriuosly hot.Just oil won't cut it, you need to add active cooling on the outside and even with that the inside will get boiling hot soon.So in any case the runtimes should be checked as well as the oprating temp and if in doubt a temp cut off added.

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  • Downunder35m commented on mbcharney's forum topic Help with old parts identification2 weeks ago

    Just pay the 5 bucks and a suitable display for the Arduino ;)

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  • TX in 99.9% of cases means you need a digital signal to do things - basically everything the unit can has a corresponding TX code to be used.

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  • The "burnt" spot is normal soldering, something got fixed or added manually after the reflow.I would first check if the power supply still works and if not get a suitable replacement.

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  • That depends on a few things...1. Are the LED's connected in any way that would allow you acces them or the wires?2. Do you have any testing equippment like a multimeter and know how to use it?Problem with cheap LED strings, xmas lights or similar is that often quite a lot of LED's are put in series and share a quite high operating voltage.Especially when coming from asia without any certificates in regards to electrical safety you might be surprised about the shortcuts taken to save a few cents.In your case it could be as simple as a bad connection or as bad as a faulty LED or broken wire.Depending on the construction on the lights (pics please!) you could use needles and a multimeter to check for the voltage on the LED's until you find the one that is broken or the part of the wire th...see more »That depends on a few things...1. Are the LED's connected in any way that would allow you acces them or the wires?2. Do you have any testing equippment like a multimeter and know how to use it?Problem with cheap LED strings, xmas lights or similar is that often quite a lot of LED's are put in series and share a quite high operating voltage.Especially when coming from asia without any certificates in regards to electrical safety you might be surprised about the shortcuts taken to save a few cents.In your case it could be as simple as a bad connection or as bad as a faulty LED or broken wire.Depending on the construction on the lights (pics please!) you could use needles and a multimeter to check for the voltage on the LED's until you find the one that is broken or the part of the wire that is faulty.You would have to poke the needles into the insulation of the wire until you reach the copper so it would not be suitable for any outdoor use after that.

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  • Powerful yet simple induction heater

    Nothing unles you are a terminator or touch the coil and ground at the same time....

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  • Downunder35m commented on Shyven's forum topic KNIGHT RIDER LED2 weeks ago

    I don't want to sound rude a simple Google search for this gives an almost endless supply on circuits, schematics and codes that can be used....

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  • Option 1: Take a 24V relay.Option 2: Use a SSR (Solid State Relay) as the operate on a wide range of input voltages, if it only supports DC you simly add a tiny rectifier.

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  • Ask your teacher or check the project requirements.It is your project, which means you are supposed to do the research and not that someone does it for you.There is no benefit in being lazy during your schooltimes - once out the real life will be even more "work" ;)

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  • I don't really follow anyone, mainly because of a lack of time.And let's face it: If you have a few hundred followers - how long do you need to actually read everything about them? ;)

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  • An old style indicator relay for a car should work if you have a 12V supply.They use the resistance of the lamps to get the right speed - if too fast you know a lamp is blown.Also quite easy to modify for different speeds.Apart from that simple search for NE555 flasher circuits and how use a transistor to power the relay - don't forget the reverse diode though...

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  • Goodbye Moshi or how to run your laser printer on Arduino

    Inkscape 0.91 should work fine.One problem with Inkscape and designing there for laser work is that you need to mae sure your creations actually matching at the endpoints.The next step would be to combine the paths before using the plugin to export it to the laser.Otherwise you will end up with hundreds of single lines instead of a few objects.

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  • Should be no problem as long as it is 12V or higher.On AC the relay will most likely be less powerfull but still work as planned.

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  • Goodbye Moshi or how to run your laser printer on Arduino

    1. Use the currect Inkscape version, if that is not the case:Convert your image to grayscale and then import it directly into an active layer that you want to use for engraving.The error you see originates from Inkscapes inability to know what to do with un-defined sections of a project.2. If you want to do vector work with stuff not created in Inkscape it pays off to have the things in a compatible file format that you can import.How do you name the layer for these tasks and what is the original/work size of the object?There is a tiny delay with extensive vector stuff, same when you import something that is really big and downsize it to a few cm.The dragon that comes with the extension is a good example for this.Once you go to about 10cm or smaller the fine details are killing the perf...see more »1. Use the currect Inkscape version, if that is not the case:Convert your image to grayscale and then import it directly into an active layer that you want to use for engraving.The error you see originates from Inkscapes inability to know what to do with un-defined sections of a project.2. If you want to do vector work with stuff not created in Inkscape it pays off to have the things in a compatible file format that you can import.How do you name the layer for these tasks and what is the original/work size of the object?There is a tiny delay with extensive vector stuff, same when you import something that is really big and downsize it to a few cm.The dragon that comes with the extension is a good example for this.Once you go to about 10cm or smaller the fine details are killing the performance.

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  • Downunder35m commented on jim.miller.580's forum topic steampunk sealant3 weeks ago

    It's the solvent, try water based acrylic paint instead or use a primer for plastic first.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Roboro's forum topic How to write equations in posts3 weeks ago

    Old problem and AFAIK you can only convert them into a graphic to import.I have seen a posting or Ible with complete and good looking formulas posted but can't find them anywhere as I lost the context.

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  • Nothing really sticks good to Mylar and even less to PET.To make it more complicated you also need it to be weather- and semi-heat proof.You might need a two stage process, first paint or seal the PET with somthing that really sticks to it and then use this surface to glue the sheet on.

    Do the old window tinting trick ;)Use some water with a drop of dishwashing liquid in a spray bottle and wet all surface completly.With the tape and the Mylar wet you can move it around until satisfied.Once once squeeze the water out the stuf stick together and a nice dry day later it is fixed as the water evaporates.

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  • Goodbye Moshi or how to run your laser printer on Arduino

    1. You need to define what you want to do through the layer name.This goes for the power level, speed and if required the ppm setting.If you only get a vector outline instead of an engraving then usually the image properties are wrong.It works best to import the picture or bitmap into Inkscape instead of trying to create it within Inkscape - Inkscape works only with vectors by default ;)2. What do you mean by that? I never encountered a pause unless the object in question is far too detailed, e.g. vector works with line lenghts below 1mm.

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  • Well, it still comes down to misleading info from the manufacturer.They are all happy to put 9H and other claims directly on the packing without specifying that they use a "fake" test that happens to use the same values as standardised test.I do admit the quality over the past few years has greatly improved but the facts still stand.If you use words for product features that will make everyone think it is far superior without specifying that your words have no meaning than it is misleading advertising ;)There is a reason why noone clearly states: We use our own tests with a pencil and do not conform to the standard ROHS hardness test.So peace once the manufactures claims actually meet the reality without trying to fool the customer ;)

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  • Downunder35m commented on BBQ Bee's forum topic Orange pi's 3.3V on board regulator3 weeks ago

    Why not go the normal route with 12 or 5V supply voltage for the fan and a temp sensor for the speed control?

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  • 1. I can not recommend ripping out the original controller unless there is a serious reason to do so.2. If you plan on using a Mega then it also means you should know at least the basics of Arduino programming as otherwise you will be totally lost - trust me been there, done that!3. If you still feel the need to proceed then you would still keep the orignal board working and connected until you know exactly how to get a Mega working in there and how to configure the firmware to your printer.My recommendation:Do a proper Google search for your exact printer model plus the terms "replace controller" - from there take a look what other people did and how good it is working.Search again but this time for the controller and Marlin or Repetier firmware for the controller in question...see more »1. I can not recommend ripping out the original controller unless there is a serious reason to do so.2. If you plan on using a Mega then it also means you should know at least the basics of Arduino programming as otherwise you will be totally lost - trust me been there, done that!3. If you still feel the need to proceed then you would still keep the orignal board working and connected until you know exactly how to get a Mega working in there and how to configure the firmware to your printer.My recommendation:Do a proper Google search for your exact printer model plus the terms "replace controller" - from there take a look what other people did and how good it is working.Search again but this time for the controller and Marlin or Repetier firmware for the controller in question.Next check the Reprap forum for their great guides and tutorials on how to setup and configure the firmware you intent to use.In some cases you can be lucky and someone there already did all this hard work for your model and uploaded a working firmware onto Github or similar sites for free use.After that comes the long process of checking and calibrating - again the guides at the Reprap forums will help you to get going.

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  • "Repairs" or "Improvements" to house or property can only be done if the landlord/agent allows it.In my case it sounds like this: "Sure, if you feel it must be done you can get it done professional at your expense but we need to see the quotes first."

    Must be a licensed tradesman for job.

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  • Downunder35m commented on REDnumber5's forum topic Wiring a 3 bulb lamp4 weeks ago

    Same way as in the nice pic above.Each lamp needs two wires to work - live and neutral.Centre contact for screw fittings is always live, the screw fitting neutral.Use seperate two core cable for the seperate lamps and feed down to the base.Here you join all live wires from the lamp to the live wire of the 3 core cable going to the plug/switch.Same story for the neutral ones.The earth connection from the 3 core wire going in is connected to the earth point on the lamps base.Since the lamp is all metal the entire lamp will be earthed this way by a single connection.

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  • Nice timimg for the resurrection LOLI tried with a friend to silence an old Patrol, mainly the noise from the mud tyres and gearbox for long highway use towing a boat.Our test equippment:1. Pioneer car stereo with "active sound system" - it allows for a lot of DSP programs and sound ajustments for the positioning of the sound.Meaning you can for example select "single driver" and really hear the sound as the speakers would be perfectly positioned for this.2. Two sets of noise cancelling headphones - one for salvage, the other to compare the results to headphones on the head.3. Time, beer and a lot of wires....First obvious choice was to simply wire the electronics between stereo and amplifier.Our problem here was the differences in the input/output levels, so some re...see more »Nice timimg for the resurrection LOLI tried with a friend to silence an old Patrol, mainly the noise from the mud tyres and gearbox for long highway use towing a boat.Our test equippment:1. Pioneer car stereo with "active sound system" - it allows for a lot of DSP programs and sound ajustments for the positioning of the sound.Meaning you can for example select "single driver" and really hear the sound as the speakers would be perfectly positioned for this.2. Two sets of noise cancelling headphones - one for salvage, the other to compare the results to headphones on the head.3. Time, beer and a lot of wires....First obvious choice was to simply wire the electronics between stereo and amplifier.Our problem here was the differences in the input/output levels, so some resistor bridge networks were made to compensate and the levels even.The microphone was put on a long, shielded headphone wire to allow to different placements.Result was just terrible with a lot of these nice feedback whistles.Some beer later we realised the flaw in our approach: Headphones use external microphones to adjust the internal speaker sound with the mix to eliminate external noise.What we tried was to eliminated all sound reaching the microphone, including the wanted ones LOLSo how to keep the speaker noise out of the microphone?Next round required some modifications to the setup....We again tried but this time using an audio input on the radio to "splice" the headphone electronics in.This way the levels could be adjusted directly on the stereo and the sound would be mixed in before even reaching the amp.Did I mention that it does not help to this on the go without thinking it over before starting?? LOLNeedless to say the electronics did not really care how the sound goes in or out, if the microphone hears music it still tries to cancel it out and messes with the results.We went inside to replace the badly leaking cans with full ones and started some drawings (mind you noone could make heads or tails out of them the next day lol).While being supplied with some fresh steaks from the BBQ it hit us hard!The sound must stay with the microphone before going out into the amplifier system!Two new microphones, a tiny stereo, line level amp and even more beer later we had the spare set of headphones destroyed enough to fit into a soundproof box with the mics next to the speakers and tiny amp inside.While messing around I noticed a resistor on the headphones electronics in a place designed for a little potentiometer.A test showed that messing here adjusts the signal mix so the range of normal voice frequencies still passes the filter.Needless to mention that a potentiometer was added and set so the music was (almost) untouched while basically all external sound was cancelled out - much nicer than the original for plane use if you ask me...The test with just the engine running was not too bad although the music did not sound right, was like certain frequencies got lost on the way.So we designated a sober driver and went on the freeway to check the tire noise only to find out that the music got worse the louder the noise was.Also the position of the microphone totally changed what happened to noise cancellation - up to the point of being really annoying.Conclusion from my side:It does not matter how you try to fool a noise cancelling hedphone set - it won't work in a car unless you use them on the head as intended.Explanantion for the tech nerds:By design these headphones mix an external signal, which is 180° out of phase, into the stereo mix going to these tiny speakers.Additionally they are also quite good to keep external noise out by design, almost like ear muffs for work use.It becomes quite obvious that no matter how you try at least one additional mixing and filtering stage is required to make it work in a car.IMHO it should work like this:At least two microphone inputs are mixed for the cancellation input.All recorded sound, including what comes out of the stereo enters the first mixer stage.Here all input signals are adjusted to the same level.In the first filter stage the noise cancellation is applied based on the mixed sound form the first stage.We now have a very distorted signal that would be terrible to listen to if you like music LOLThe setup should now be adjusted so that the sound is basically totally gone.Don't worry if you can't do it properly as it is next to impossible due to the limitations of the car not being a perfect soundproof room.Once the signals are filtered as good as possible it is time to fix the next stages.The signal is now as good as we can go, which means we need to get our music back!The next filter uses the previous input to eliminate all remains of the acutal audio signal we want to hear - this part I have not figured out fully yet as the music signal would need a DSP processor to remove the counterpart from the mixed signal, otherwise we just create unwanted noise again.But we ignore that problem in favour of the theoretical stuff for now as otherwise I would now need to find ways to sycronise the signal timing as well ;)In any case we now assume to have or active cancellation signal that is free of the music part.The last mixer now overlays the real music signal onto the mixed and filtered cancellation signal.This gives us a clean audio signal plus the sounds required to keep the noise down.Obviously the more you like music the more problems you face, same if your car simply is very noisy due to age, tyres, exhaust and so on...A stereo signal is hard enough to keep clean with and added cancellation sound, doing the same in a 5 or 7 channel DSP system is not possible IMHO - at least not on a hobby level.And unless you already have a luxury car don't bother starting LOLKeep in mind that in an expensive, quality car you won't really hear much coming from the outside to start with.Where you in your daily driver will hear the cars next to you, the wind and all loose parts rattling around a big Merc or Audi will already be almost silent even without active noise cancellation.You can hear the wind noise from the window with one ear more than with the other as a really simple example.There is no way to cancel that noise out so the result is fully even at every seat in the car...

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  • I did that in my last house and the money for the parts was deducted from the rent by the landlord.Current landlord neither cares about the useless flyscreens, nor about checking the gas appliances or the fact that all downpipes are broken and blocked causing a nice flood with every rain.No chance to fix anything or get it fixed - not even allowed to put a nail in the wall to hang some pictures....Landlord here can literally do what they like and if you don't like it they kick you out and give you a bad reputation making it hard to impossible to rent again.

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  • Downunder35m commented on Jayefuu's forum topic The Clinic1 month ago

    The first is quites nice and easy enough to follow with the video.For the power supply I would add a nice casing and use it as the intro image.There are a lot of Ibles and websites showing all sorts of uses for an ATX power supply, so try to stand out a bit more and I am sure it will be rewarded.In either case nice work for the first time!

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  • One similar to the left I encountered but not anywhere near that size.-Nature can be weird is all I say LOL

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  • Make your own Ferrite to improve magnetic fields

    Nice timing, I am in the need of something big in a few weeks too.Unless your welder is an inverter type it might be the easiest to use the core from an old microwave transformer as the choke.Works only for the primary though dow the wire sizes.As for plaster I am only happy with it for high frequency use and where big coils are involved.Simple reason: You need too much plaster to get really high gains in inductivity plus it only works for materials that won't react with water.Iron dust for example will rust before curing unless you have the extreme expensive micro encapsuled stuff.Polysterene and acetone works quite good but is hard to fully cure in a timely way and without too much deforemation on bigger cores.Here is how I currently handle bigger things that require half decent quali...see more »Nice timing, I am in the need of something big in a few weeks too.Unless your welder is an inverter type it might be the easiest to use the core from an old microwave transformer as the choke.Works only for the primary though dow the wire sizes.As for plaster I am only happy with it for high frequency use and where big coils are involved.Simple reason: You need too much plaster to get really high gains in inductivity plus it only works for materials that won't react with water.Iron dust for example will rust before curing unless you have the extreme expensive micro encapsuled stuff.Polysterene and acetone works quite good but is hard to fully cure in a timely way and without too much deforemation on bigger cores.Here is how I currently handle bigger things that require half decent qualities:Fine iron powder is moisturised to slightly rust - you want to mix and air frequently until you get enven rust build up without the product turning into rust.Now all is treated with phosphoric acid to convert the red iron oxide into the black oxide type.This will act as an insulator is important to get right.If you have too much iron with no rust you won't be too happy!A quick wash and even quicker hot air dry is required for the next step and should be done before the acid dries on the product.Mix now about 25% by volume with black iron oxide, the finer the powder the better.As the iron powder is quite heavy you are best off using a ball mill without balls for the mixing.Now for the hard part:Prepare some fibreglass resin by adding MEK or Acetone so the resin is less thick.It should flow like warm honey and you should be able to see a drop on a flat surface to grow in size and become flat.I prefer MEK (PVC pipe primer) over acetone as I can smell it better to confirm the core is fully cured - plus it is the base product to make the primer for the resin.Your mixed powder should now be wetted with some MEK, just enough to make clump like green sand for casting.If you can form it and breaks almost clean it is good.Be quick now as the stuff evaporates fast!Add the powder mix into a suitable container, icecreame boxes or jogurt tubs work great as the resin won't bind with it (easy cleanup once cured).Add the activator to your resin.For this you want to use the recommended amount for the volume you had before thinning it plus about 20% extra.Mix the powder and resin as good as you can - what you mess up here will mess with you later!You want to add resin until the mix is plyable without looking dry or creating puddles of resin on the top.Think of it like green sand that you want to make a mould with.When you tap it to compress a slight amount of resin should be coming out to have it perfect.For abovious reasons you casting form should be a bit higher than required ;)Put the mix into the form until filled about half way.Tap and compress the mix to drive the resin out then add more to fill it up.Compress again until you feel the bottom building up.I found the thick end of chopsticks work great for this.Your form should be about 10% higher than what you need and be filled right up.This allows to scrape the resin off so that when done compressing you only have the mix in the form without an additional layer of just resin.Once the leftover resin is rock hard it is time to sand the top off and if you want to cover the finnished product with some acrylic paint.Make sure to warm up so you can check if the MEK is really gone - if you can still smell it leave a few more days to fully evaporate otherwise your paint will never cure ;)Only problem with this method is stability.The iron oxide fills the voids between the iron particles and the resin only the gaps left over.Having some dry oxide in the mix will certainly turn bad here as the resin won't bind to it.If you have access to a 3D printer you can create the mold from ABS which you seal ABS juice.That way the stuff binds very well to the mold and you get added insulation and strength.Feel free to also print a ring to cover the top once fully cured.

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  • Bit old as a topic but since someone felt the need to revive it:Apart from filesystem "problems" these days fakes are a far bigger problem.You can buy a 64GB stick only to find out it can only hold 4GB without loosing data.Some smart asian guy realised that by adding 4 or 5 lines of code to the controller chip it can act like a digital video recorder on a loop.You can format, you write and it all happens in the advertised size - because all date is overwritten once the real memory is full.For the consumer these fakes are as hard to identify as the better fakes that just use slow and second grade memory chips.In a shop you sometimes can spot the fake if you really know how the original packing looks, on pics through online sales it is basically impossible.One dead give away is ...see more »Bit old as a topic but since someone felt the need to revive it:Apart from filesystem "problems" these days fakes are a far bigger problem.You can buy a 64GB stick only to find out it can only hold 4GB without loosing data.Some smart asian guy realised that by adding 4 or 5 lines of code to the controller chip it can act like a digital video recorder on a loop.You can format, you write and it all happens in the advertised size - because all date is overwritten once the real memory is full.For the consumer these fakes are as hard to identify as the better fakes that just use slow and second grade memory chips.In a shop you sometimes can spot the fake if you really know how the original packing looks, on pics through online sales it is basically impossible.One dead give away is often the price.If a genuine 64GB stick from Sandisk or similar has a retail price of over 100bucks but you can buy them online for under 50 you can be almost certain to be ripped off.Sadly some really bad sellers realised this already and increased the prices for fakes to be at around 80% of the retail, some even claiming to be an authorised re-seller...The only way to spot a fake is to pay attention before buying:Check websites that explain and show the difference between a fake and the real one.Research for the particular model you want.If the one you want to buy will only raise one flag to be a possible fake avoid it!Sometimes it is easy though.If the manufaturer only sells UHD class10 from a certain size on than an online model of smaller size, also with UHD class10 will be a fake.Another dead give away for brand name products is the registration.They all allow you to register your new product for warranty claims, which you should do!Don't use the link stated on the packing, go to the website and check for the registration form there!If your number is rejected you got a fake, which will be confirmed after contacting the support.The top fakes in order of losses to the user:5. All working as advertised but a fake due to wrong casing and slower performance - not too bad if you got it dirt cheap anyway.4. All working but with ongoing transfer problems and very slow speed.Stopping transfers and really slow speeds often mean you got a compressed device, here all incoming data is compressed and unpacked during transfer.Problem is that especially video files won't compress and that you never know how much empty space is really left.3. All working at first and as expected but sometimes you find corrupted files.Here second grade memory chips are used that either can't handle the speed or are simply faulty in some areas that are not blocked out as the memory size would end up to low.Bin case as you never know if your data is complete once transfered.2. OS struggles and even reports a different device or just some asian garbage as device info.Here you only got a fancy looking enclosure with outdated and badly matched hardware inside.Once the guy faking it can't be bothered to add the info the original uses you know it is bad enough to bin it.1. The perfect fake.Here we have really good matching packaging, a case with all the right markings (maybe not the hologram though) and seemingly fast speeds.When then original is produced in Taiwan, Korea or China you have an extreme high chance that nothing goes to waste.The original is tested extensively before it will be packed and shipped.Everything that fails here should be recycled if possible, otherwise destroyed.Sadly recycling over there often means just selling it as it is.Only the final protections, like holograms and correct ID numbers are wrong, making it really hard to spot them and even harder to find the fault.Sometimes it is only the speed and the user won't know because he uses and old USB1.1 port for the tranfer.In other cases the device or memory chip might overheat and fail premature.Or once you formatted into a different filesystem the entire thing just fails...

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  • Don't get me wrong here but these buzzers in various forms exist for more years than what I am old and so far not a single one was proven to actually do more than make money for the creator LOLMozzies are attracted by scent, hormones and body heat.They follow what they can smell, zone in onto the heat signature like a modern missle and then attack.You could make a nice article about the history of audio-mozzie-traps...From the fist models with a normal speaker and just annoying noise to the modern ultrasonic ones using peizo speakers or even the latest that claim to work with electrostatic fields protecting you from being spotted by them.But might be easier to wait with the comclusion till you covered all devices as otherwise you always write the same: Sorry guys but not working LOLJoke...see more »Don't get me wrong here but these buzzers in various forms exist for more years than what I am old and so far not a single one was proven to actually do more than make money for the creator LOLMozzies are attracted by scent, hormones and body heat.They follow what they can smell, zone in onto the heat signature like a modern missle and then attack.You could make a nice article about the history of audio-mozzie-traps...From the fist models with a normal speaker and just annoying noise to the modern ultrasonic ones using peizo speakers or even the latest that claim to work with electrostatic fields protecting you from being spotted by them.But might be easier to wait with the comclusion till you covered all devices as otherwise you always write the same: Sorry guys but not working LOLJokes aside, if any of these thingies would actually do anything then you can be sure the military would not use extra high strenght, chemical repllants for their foot soldiers.Here in AU they get a high strength version of Bushmaster that has about twice the concentration of the commercial product, which is already labled unsuited for children.For as long as these toys are sold people test them and the result is always the same, similar to this nice article...Claims are easy to make but often hard or impossible to proof as real evidence.I tried sound already using an old fish tank with some mozzies in there.Not claiming that my eqippment was perfect, same for confirming the results but after going the range from 5kHz to about 200kHz I could not see any effect on them at all.But add just a leaf from a citronella grass plant and they all try to get to the far corner away from it....

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  • Downunder35m commented on Downunder35m's instructable Laser Cut and Engraved Coffin1 month ago
    Laser Cut and Engraved Coffin

    Not sure how I can help...All I know is that all parts are there, did you activate the other layers?Did you try to mark all objects on the screen to highlight them better?

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  • Downunder35m commented on Wihand's forum topic AA Smartphone Charger1 month ago

    A half decent smartphone battery has around 4500mAh.A really decent AA battery might reach about of that, add the losses from the booster and you will see why it won't work.As soon as the battery goes under the minimum of the booster it will be over anyway.A decent motor, gearbox and hand crank is better than a AA battery ;)Usually 3.7V lithium ion batteries are used for tis type of charging, although I would be tempted to add a connection so the battery can be used as "replacement" for the orignal - would save all the losses directly...

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  • Says in the spacs: 0.2W/LED.Since you already know it runs on 12V you just count the LED'S you use and calculate the (milli)amps they need.Still totally fail to see the problem as the resistors are built in and the LED's can't draw more power than what they are rated for anyway....

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  • I still seem to miss the logic with that thing.You need 4 wires for a RGB system, 3 for the colors and then common ground.Are you able to trace the wires to the LED's?If so then there should be another one (maybe just a solder pad) for the ground conntection.The color of the wires does not matter much as you (in a normal case) would just connect them to the controller and if a color is worng switch them over.

    And you think we are clairvoyant because??...

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  • True 8bit photo engraving on chinese laser cutter - maybe a worlds first?

    Not quite sure, same for the relevance.As said, it was created for laser works and here it works just fine.When I find enough time the project will be updated to the latest Marlin - if there are any real benefits by doing so.

    It highly depends on the material and laser.For example glass still looks a bit better if a bitmap raster is used at equal power levels.On the other hand getting more or less realistic 2.5D engravings only works with enough power levels to correspond to the shade of gray.The main difference to standard approaches is that with the higher resolution in the power levels it is no problem to map the 256 different shades to power levels in the mid range.So instead of always having 0 for no power and 255 for max power you can actually finetune so your engraving starts with a power level where the laser is actually doing something.Same for the other end, if full power just burns everything...

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  • Downunder35m commented on WaffleM's forum topic Removing hair dryer heating element1 month ago

    Blower for these big air matress things...They are available for mains power, car 12V or even as cobined units that work on all.

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  • True 8bit photo engraving on chinese laser cutter - maybe a worlds first?

    In theory it should work just fine but I never tried it as I don't have a spare printer to test.But of course you would need to adjust the firmware to the needs of your printer.

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  • Downunder35m commented on TimC181's forum topic Powering car LEDs via USB1 month ago

    I am fairly certain the LED controller uses 12V without any step down converter inside the lighter plug.Maybe a switch to turn it off but that's it.So you can simply disconnect the plug and wire the controller directly to the cars 12V system.Either over the ignition circuit so it is only on when the motor is running or with a seperate switch and fuse to turn it on and off whenever you like.

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  • Depends on the country, they love to do in countries where certain things are hard to come by for various reasons.

    Sad to hear this and sad that the same courier company is still used for this.Highway robbery based on hidden fineprints in their contracts is bad enough to seek a different service to deliver prices.Fedex and UPS are well known for these tactics and I know from own experience that they are also partly responsible for excessive import duties.When they want your extra money and hold the delivery in customs they also report the item to the tax office - I can only assume here but they must get more than a "thank you" in return for this.Unless the sponsors and Instructables can come up with a service that avoids highway robbery I can only suggest this to anyone entering a contest from outside the US:Check you import requirements in terms of how much value is allowed in for free an...see more »Sad to hear this and sad that the same courier company is still used for this.Highway robbery based on hidden fineprints in their contracts is bad enough to seek a different service to deliver prices.Fedex and UPS are well known for these tactics and I know from own experience that they are also partly responsible for excessive import duties.When they want your extra money and hold the delivery in customs they also report the item to the tax office - I can only assume here but they must get more than a "thank you" in return for this.Unless the sponsors and Instructables can come up with a service that avoids highway robbery I can only suggest this to anyone entering a contest from outside the US:Check you import requirements in terms of how much value is allowed in for free and for what items you might be charge a lot.Tools are usually quite cheap, "luxury items" can cope up to 50% of their value in extra import taxes!If you happen to win a big (in volume) or valuable price in a contest and already know you might be slabbed with extra import taxes contact the support and offer a delivery service you organise.A lot of small, local parcel services work together with the big companies, meaning the they use them for the overseas stuff but once in the country they take over.I had to order some car parts for a friend twice from the US.First time I did not ask and did not bother and for $300 in parts on the bill we had to fork out $110 for Fedex and another $75 for import taxes.Next order the company was asked to simply state "car spares" on the tax form instead of listing all items by value and to accept a pickup from our choosen courier company.They said no problem but we won't be responsible for loss or extra delivery time.Instead of two weeks and a lot of extra costs one carby with matching inlet manifold and air box plus a NOS regulator, values at all up $2300 arrived a week later in the workshop for a simple signature upon receiving the stuff.Just shows that you can be lucky with import taxes but also that not all companies use a delivery to make extra money without any justification.

    It is adding a bad taste to "winning" something isn't it?

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  • Downunder35m commented on TylerL62's forum topic Create a motorized rotating TV1 month ago

    Should be possible by adding a gear of suitable size to one side and worm drive on the other side.Driven either by a normal motor and endstops or with a microcontroller and stepper motor.

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  • Downunder35m commented on pseaton's forum topic Profile Page Updates1 month ago

    I won't be trying to follow the converstaions or "solutions" in this thread for the date and time chaos I complained so often about already.Neither have the time, nor the will to sort all comments by hand just to be able to read it all in the right context.Listen to members, announce changes in time and instead of constantly bringing "new features" noone asked for fix the existing shortcoming to make the site better.From there we have a base to move.Starting to think the site is more an experiment that anything real LOL

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  • I have to admit that I did not use the feature too often but with all the fuzz going on I took another deeper look.All I can say is I agree with the other comments stating that the update is for the worse.I mean you as the site operators always state Instructable is for the users.So why are the being ignored most of the times?Is it too hard to actually ask what features are in demand and to implement them?The comfort and usability is going downhill and you start to loose the touch here.Instead of making things easier and better existing problem are ignored month after month and changes and updates only too often add more problems than solutions...

    I started asking for a time and date based option for comments like made here a very long time ago.So far no real explanation why it seems to be impossible to do and no improvements either.The statement that all comments are based on something that makes a really good sense is just not true - it is chaos and impossible to sort.And as for reasoning and suggestions, it happened after the complaints already started here and in other threads.If you do something like these big updates and you claim to do it for the users and not just your own fun, then it would make sense to have an announcement that is easy to find - like a popup when you log on or an Email to make even better.Sorry to say but: Too little, too late IMHO.Just this thread alone shows the total pain of a user trying to get an ...see more »I started asking for a time and date based option for comments like made here a very long time ago.So far no real explanation why it seems to be impossible to do and no improvements either.The statement that all comments are based on something that makes a really good sense is just not true - it is chaos and impossible to sort.And as for reasoning and suggestions, it happened after the complaints already started here and in other threads.If you do something like these big updates and you claim to do it for the users and not just your own fun, then it would make sense to have an announcement that is easy to find - like a popup when you log on or an Email to make even better.Sorry to say but: Too little, too late IMHO.Just this thread alone shows the total pain of a user trying to get an order into the comments and I highly doubt anyone can find enough good in this system to make up for the chaos with the posting dates and times.And as said this problem is so old it steps on its own beard when walking past....

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  • I have several modules based on the AF1210A.The design is dirt cheap and simple, same for possible mods.Most of the older and high quality car chargers use a lot of descrete parts without that level of complexity in the lttle chip.Sure a max of 3A might not be good for everything but it is good for a lot ;)Considering to use an old 12V/2.5A wallwart to create a little iniversal wallwart covering 3-12V to avoid using my lab supply for little things.

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  • Powerful yet simple induction heater

    It should be fine, although I prefer a few more turns.The choke coils make sure there is no back emf going into the mosfets and they also seperate the work coil from the the unused mosfet during the switching.Having low values here means max power for the work coil but being too low can mean you blow your mosefets.

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  • Downunder35m commented on WillA2's forum topic Single Color LED strip to Arduino1 month ago

    Arduino playground - basics of using transistor for switching or PWM purposes...

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  • True 8bit photo engraving on chinese laser cutter - maybe a worlds first?

    That looks really great!Thanks for posting the pics!

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  • I love the idea ;)

    I wish it would be that easy, problem is that a standard toilet is not designed for these uneven loads.Let's face it, a lot of toilets are not even firmly screwed to the ground...And for some weird reason they always stand on the plastic, never on the ceramic directly ROFL

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