About Gelfling6

Winsted, Connecticut
Feb. 13, 2011
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A drifter, a soldier of fortune. Singing of life, what it has given, what it has taken away. What has happened, what is happening now, and what may come in the future.. Born to survive! Your typical loose cannon in a suit of chain maille armor. Bring on the faire, I hear it calling my name!
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  • Driving Bi-Polar Stepper Motor with Keyes L298N

    You could, but I've heard rumors of possible problems of back-feeding the +5V, raising havoc with the switching between USB & on-board regulated +5V.I would never, however, feed the +5V pin of the arduino to the LM298N alone, rather, a separate +5V supply should be used. this causes the Arduino's regulator chip to overload, and causes the AVR itself to brown-out with lack of power. Never power anything stronger than 2 RC servos off the +5 pin! I've run most of my projects off a +12V output from a modified ATX supply, BUT... fed the power through two regulators in series, from +12 to the input of a 7809 (+9V regulator), and the output from the 7809 to the input of a separate 7805 (+5v regulator) , creating a +9V rail (Arduino main supply) and +5V rail (servo, other logic requiring higher amperage.) all common GND. I keep running into steppers which are in the 1.0 to 5-Ohm range, which leads me to believe they're more of the 3V & 5V coils, and feeding +12V to them would fry them.You can alter the L298N, by removing the jumper that send VMs (+12V, Motor Supply), and run a jumper from the VMs terminal, and put it in with the +5V terminal, with the wire from the external 7805. This applies +5V to both the logic & Motor Supply sides of the L298N. (also, if your motors are in the 15-36V Range, Remove this jumper!! Critical! anything higher than 15V will Cook the onboard regulator! and simply supply a separate +5 Logic supply.)

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  • Gelfling6 commented on makjosher's instructable Simple Sheet Metal Brake: No Welding1 month ago
    Simple Sheet Metal Brake: No Welding

    I made a similar device, using just a single barn-door hinge, a strip of metal stock drilled to the holes of the regular end of the hinge, and a set of wing nuts & recessed screws.. Built it to bend pieces of strip-stock aluminum to make a X-Y servo gimble. http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/national-...

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  • Gelfling6 commented on samuel123abc's instructable Arduino Nano CH3401 month ago
    Arduino Nano CH340

    Odd... I downloaded the latest Arduino IDE, and ran the 'install.sh' as administrator, (If you're using the Ubuntu Software release, it's the old 1.0.5, latest release is 1.6.11).. no problems what so ever under Ubuntu 16.04, the stock CH340g chip on my nano, and whatever driver the IDE installed, works just fine.

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  • Gelfling6 commented on Ninja.Monkey.In.The.Machine's instructable DIY Claymore Cosplay1 month ago
    DIY Claymore Cosplay

    Despite the anime/manga ties, the claymore was also a sword. A long, tapered blade, slightly "V"'ed hilt, 2-handed (long wood handle, with a ornamental pommel.)Nicely done on the armor! Actually, I think the hip armor was actually more protection, than useless.. Even traditional english plate armor had plenty of covering to the hips, because the pelvis is quite fragile, and once you no-longer have legs to stand on, You're pretty much done for. (This coming from a 53 yr old, who wears semi-traditional chain maille to renaissance faires.) (Picture of me on the right, with a student I got started on knitting.)

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  • Gelfling6 commented on oddlyk1's instructable How to catch crickets!1 month ago
    How to catch crickets!

    Depends on what angle the bottle neck was.. Despite the untouched bottle in step 3, They CAN follow to the opening. But if they cannot climb to it, they stay inside. (too steep an incline, smooth wall.) If the neck of the bottle was facing downward, they simply crawl out after noshing the bait. if the neck opening was mid-air, (cut the top along the widest part, invert and insert the neck into the bottom piece), they cannot find it.. same way with a Carpenter Bee trap. they fal down through the small funnel in the center-top, but cannot fly back to get out of it.

    In step 3, the crickets aren't too dumb.. they Can find their way to the bottle neck, and climb out, though with some bottles, the neck is too steep an incline or too smooth, and they slide back in. Saw on Youtube, someone cut the bottle just below the neck, and inverted it into the bottom piece, then put a small piece of wood for the crickets to climb. result, they climb through the neck, but cannot reach it to get back out. Also, used small pieces of fruit allowed to spoil/rot a little as bait. (trying a cherry tomato I cut-up.) Trying to get a little 'Local Flavor' (pun) for a friend's Bearded Dragon. To the person who 6 yrs ago, worried about their frog dying, You CAN get live crickets & meal worms from the pet store, relatively cheap. wild crickets aren't the only source.

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  • Gelfling6 commented on alizaliz's instructable Giant USB Volume Knob1 month ago
    Giant USB Volume Knob


    If you can find the item again, just copy/paste the URL, like above.. some of the other instructables have links to their items too, as well as others pointing to optional sources the same way. I imagine you can also add the IR library, and add additional control with a IR remote, as well as the local volume control. Simply add the key-code to the same controls as the encoder (up/down) and mute button. Nice job!!!

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  • Gelfling6 commented on ghochman's instructable Kitchen Helper Tower1 month ago
    Kitchen Helper Tower

    If stability is the main concern, Perhaps, if there is enough 2X4 left, outfit the legs of the step stool, with a pair of of bigger feet, extending outward. _/ \_ , simply nailed to the bottom of the legs. One other suggestion for the new builders, have the toddler help-out building it! Get their creative building started early!

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  • Making ESP8266-01 module breadboard friendly

    they needn't be exact 8=pin.. a 10-pin or even 12-pin, you just waste-off a few pins. I use a pair of 6-pin inline extension headers (Arduino-shield style, for the power & Analog header), in a "Y" to the 8266-01's pins, to the breadboard, (just leaving the outer 4 pins open.)

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  • Gelfling6 commented on BrittLiv's instructable Thor's Hammer Toilet Brush1 month ago
    Thor's Hammer Toilet Brush

    For those really tough Midguardian messes! By Odin's beard, Banner, what did you eat?

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  • Gelfling6 commented on BrittLiv's instructable Thor's Hammer Toilet Brush1 month ago
    Thor's Hammer Toilet Brush

    Oh, the humor (Mostly Bathroom humor) that goes with this! LOL!!! For those REALLY tough cleaning jobs, for when the **** REALLY hits the fan!Nicely done!!!!

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  • Gelfling6 commented on CWAVE6K's instructable Apple Power Mac G5 Power Connector1 month ago
    Apple Power Mac G5 Power Connector

    I've seen a similar version of the socket... on the back of an IBM Xseries eServer, on both supplies, and I'm taking a wild guess, they're supposed to be a Euro version of the standard power cord, because the G5 I have, has the standard power cord... (and I'm trying to find a pair of spare Male sockets to replace them.) (since I don't have a 3D printer)

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  • Gelfling6 commented on Ugifer's instructable Arduino Controlled ATX Power Supply2 months ago
    Arduino Controlled ATX Power Supply

    Yes, you can, BUT..... I've heard a few saying if you try to connect some of the arduinos (R2 and back) +5V line, it can do damage to the circuit that switches from the USB +5V to the regulator +5V.. (haven't actually seen this myself.. Duiemilinova worked fine..) as long as you're not pulling too hard on the 2A standby (with an arduino? not likely.)

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  • Gelfling6 commented on prodlad's instructable Things to do with a old computer2 months ago
    Things to do with a old computer

    I used to scavenge and rebuild all kinds of computers from the discards of others. My present main machine is an AMD64 X2 someone tossed, in the case of a dead Dual-code-quad, with 6 internal drives (2x1T, 2x500GB, 1x 160GB & a 80GB main drive.) 8GB of RAM, a Gigbyte Invidia 1GB graphics card, with a few extra cards. ALL scavenged! Alas, the town I used to live in, began a 'Mandatory E-Waste Recycling' program several years ago, and, I can no-longer obtain the parts I used to.. (All devices, once placed in the bin, become property of the town, which then sells it off to a E-Waste recycling/recovery company. After all of the precious metals they salt out, I can only imagine the amount of caustic and contaminated waste they still need to dispose of? So-far, UBUNTU, and a few varients (Ultimate Edition, KUBUNTU, etc..) run right out of the box (as long as you run the x64 of x86 version to match.) I've been running Ubuntu for about 2 years now, main machine running 16.04 x64, I totally agree! Unless there is actually something physically broken (burned out, over-cooked, (Too-clocked)), too many people toss out, wanting the latest, greatest, fastest gaming machines.. My main machine would've qualified as one of those 6-8 years ago, but it runs just fine! (and it runs OpenArena 0.8.8)

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  • Controlling an Arduino based Rover with IR Remote

    If I can ever find where I stored it (stack of hard drives), I wrote code for a similar design, using the Parallax Basic Stamp-2, using their B.O.E.-Bot frame, which was a 3-function robot, (IR obstacle Avoid, IR close-follow/Object tracking, and manual remote control.) very similar to this design. I had the code also re-written to Arduino Wiring, and used to run a VEX Robot frame/motors the same using the Arduino as the brains. (Using a SONY remote.) Not 100% sure, though, the remote you have transmits Sony protocol.. I just recently got the same, and it runs NEC protocol. (the repeat from holding a button, is a solid FFFFFF )

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  • Gelfling6 commented on cavelamb's instructable Battery power for the QuickStart board2 months ago
    Battery power for the QuickStart board

    Awhile back, I scrapped the remains of a PS4 wireless Controller, and salvaged the 3.7V Lithium-Ion battery pack from it.. I inserted two short IDC header pins (roughly 3/8" (a little more than 1.5cm) into the pack's plug, and I soldered a 2X4 IDC socket header into the VDD/VSS pins to the right of the 40-pin header on the Quickstart. The battery pack NEVER gets charged any other method, other than plugging it into the header, and charging the pack through the onboard-3.3V regulator, while the chips are at idle (a simple print "Hello" program written to RAM, which stays dormant after it runs from the USB terminal), and the + pin plugged into the VDD pins and - pin plugged into the VSS pin of the 2X4 header. Strictly a short-term battery which will allow running the quickstart for a little while after the USB plug is unplugged. I've also run the device from a pair of Lithium-Ion batteries (2x in parallel, scavenged from a Laptop battery pack, and separated from the rest of the pack & electronics) the same way.. As long as the battery is charged through the regulator, there is little chance of the pack rising in voltage above 3.4V.. But.... this is still not a recommended method.. (already got chewed out in the Parallax forums, warning that the pack if charged normally (5V directly to the pack), it can retain up to 4.4V (.7V more), which could be detrimental to the propeller. Well understood!) I only use the packs for short-term use. Mainly for the 'Whack-A-Mole' game while waiting for other things to finish.

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  • Gelfling6 commented on BEHROOZK2's instructable Bootloader Shield for Arduino Uno3 months ago
    Bootloader Shield for Arduino Uno

    Excellent job! One thing I'm having problems with, the ATMega8U2 on a MEGA2650 I have, has begun acting up (locks up everything on the host computer, acting like it's a USB/Serial keyboard, and I never altered the firmware for it.), I've tried the bootloader reburn (connecting an UNO to the ISP socket (the 6-pin header) of the MEGA,) and that worked, But... It seems it's the 8u2 what is acting up.. Unfortunately, there is no link within the IDE, to assign the bootloader option, to look at a 8u2 or 16u2.. Maybe now, would be a good idea, to suggest that for 1.7.0?

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  • Build a Quick, Easy (& Free) Ground Terminal!

    Whew! For a second there, I thought you were suggesting using the bolt screw, to connect to a grounding pin of a power socket. (AC house Current ('.') ) (In certain parts of Europe, BAD Idea! since all 3 socket holes are round!). Another alternative, I usually use a Protoshield with the Arduino, and simply assign two wires from the two GND pins, to two adjacent breadboard pin sets[:::::], giving 8 more GND plugs. [::::]I just modified a pair of Protoshields, removing the outer pin rails, and replacing them with through-hold sockets, so now each pin is doubled. Mainly did this, because I wanted to use the Protoshield along with the keypad/LCD shield

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  • D.I.Y Ultra Quiet Shop compressor from a refrigerator motor (compressor)

    Also, they make oil filter/recovery units similar to in-line moisture traps. (usually has a metal particle filter inside a semi-sealed glass container, with a drain valve on the bottom) to reduce the oil mist content. This mist may also be because of the 10W40 actually over-heating, practically boiling.... (link to a example trap, http://www.ebay.com/p/afr2000-air-pressure-regulator-water-separator-trap-filter-airbrush-compressor/1272654119 )

    Totally agreed! the relief valve should be kept away from any source of moisture, so as it will not become contaminated & Jammed (corrosion between the metal surfaces, like putting sand between metal plates) . Also the drain plug should be of the kind that opens inward (pushes into the tank), as this breaks through any contaminants than could jam a normal valve shut.

    Step #3, 10W40? might not be a good idea.. It's not made for being agitated like the internal workings of a refrigeration compressor (where mechanical parts will be whipping it like cream! or in this case, instant grease.) Compressor specific oils (for regular belt-driven compressors) are made to handle the possibility of air getting mixed, as well as high heat.The oil drained from the compressor is already laden with refrigerant, (if you heat it, It'll actually foam-boil trying to release the refrigerant.) and not the same as compressor oil used in auto shops.) Also, engine oils has a detergent added, which will allow water (from even ambient humidity) to intermix, which will cause the oil to whip-up like a grease. Compressor specific oils, do not have this detergent added.

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  • How to modify a fridge compressor into a silent air compressor

    from what I can trace of it, but not being able to see the entire exploded parts view at the top of the picture, You need to connect Neutral (usually the white wire) to connector "N" (obiously marked for Neutral), and the Hot (power) wire to "L" (Line), but then comes the tricky part.. Note connector "C"? the thermostat goes between "L" & "C", so, HERE you would place the pressure switch (pressure low=NC, Pressure peak =NO)the cooling fan needn't be between N & C, the dotted lines are Common-Ground (GND), your main power is the spot marked with the sine wave (at the bottom. the lamp & switch are the 'internal light', so, not required. (note they're connected to the "L" & "N" posts so they get power when the compressor is off. but turns on the light when the switch is closed (door open, AKA a NC SPST switch,) )

    If you plan on using a double-pole pressure switch to cut all power at peak pressure, you need to add a jumper between L & C (bypassing what would have been the thermostat.), and put the output wires from the pressure switch to L & N (and, just to CMA (Cover My A..) , ALWAYS check connections with a ohm/Continuity tester with the circuit un-plugged before adding power!)

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  • Bicycle Cell Phone Charger (Wind Turbine with build in Battery)

    I like the idea, but I may be ending-up in the "Engineer-Naysayers" group.. Most fans like this do not generate AC or DC out when run like this.. they are usually wired as a DC to stepper motor style (the DC voltage is sent through a circuit that turns on one coil, then the next, shuts-off the previous coil, then turns it back on as it goes around, turns off the 2nd again, alternating the two.) The chip (in picture 3 of step 2, with 4-wires) is a combination driver & Hall-Effect sensor. it doesn't generate any voltage.. The sensor is for making sure the impeller/magnet is spinning, and telling how fast it's going (tachometer). The coil & board pack are not easy to remove (I've tried.. they epoxy the daylights out of these, and you either snap the support post, or end-up snapping the wires to the coils. (and they usually solder the pins to the coil down tight to the board.)) Also, on fans with a 3rd of 4th wire (one is the tachometer output, but that is usually a powered signal from the DC voltage, the other is a resistor/temperature output)If you can manage to get the board & coil off the frame without doing damage, You have a 3-wire, 2-coil (one common center) |^^|^^| , which you can wire to.. You can actually get the most voltage out of just one coil at a time, because of the magnet arrangement, One will be dropping as the other rises. (so wiring the two outside wires will give only half Maximum, and trying to wire the two outer ends will cause one to short (Collision style) the other as the voltages ride/fall.)An AC fan (run by AC voltage, not DC) will not generate any, if VERY little.. the magnet is replaced by a stepped steel armature, and any magnetic field it has would be delegable. I still like the idea! There's another plan here in the instructables, of a Quad-Copter made from E-Waste, But I wonder seriously, how they managed to modify the DC fans, to produce enough speed, for the same reason I mentioned about the epoxy holding things together.Don't give up though! Note I said not easy.. I didn't say impossible!

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  • Gelfling6 commented on brico3d's instructable Old PC Recycled Regulable Power Supply3 months ago
    Old PC Recycled Regulable Power Supply

    One thing, I would suggest.. Moving the actual On/Off switch to the front panel, and not removing/altering the rear switch. The front (green wire) switch should be as a "stand-by" (put the supply into a sleep mode), and if the rear switch is a DPST (Double-poles, single throw), It's there for a reason! To isolate the entire supply from the mains.=//= Note, that the +5Vsb will always be live, even if the green wire is not connected.

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  • How to Make a Super Flashlight ? TUTORIAL

    To answer the others asking, YES, that IS a 'Fly Zapper' racket handle, and You're applying the H-V lines from the circuit to the opposing ends of the CFL Tube. I also have to agree, the use of a non-contained CL tube is begging for disaster. (glass, and the (from an old Haz-Mat Operational-level (Warm-zone clean-up) Ex Firefighter's perspective) Mercury-Vapor (and extreme minute amounts of actual mercury droplets) overkill of the hazardous material. It is a bit hazardous. (trust me, we're exposed to more eating any kind of Ocean Fish, not just sword fish.) I would suggest a encapsulated (Plastic cover over the CFL tube) light, instead of an exposed one. The H-V circuit in the racket handle, turns the CFL into a semi-Electro-Luminescent light. (HV exciting the mercury vapor, and forming a L-O-N-G & W-I-D-E arc through it.)

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  • Gelfling6 commented on shaner926's instructable Water Filter3 months ago
    Water Filter

    The more ai look at the filters for these 'Jug' container 'Drip-Filter", I wonder if their filters could be adapted into a similar in-line filter?

    I.E. I m,ean the type you put into the top of the 'Jug', pour water into the reservoir on top, and it filters through like a drip coffee maker. Could a in-line filter like yours, be adapted to have that kind of cartridge 'replaceable' inside? I don't think they're made for high pressure, but using a hand pump like you have, low pressure through

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