author
1Instructables1,070Views517CommentsWinsted, ConnecticutJoined February 13th, 2011
A drifter, a soldier of fortune. Singing of life, what it has given, what it has taken away. What has happened, what is happening now, and what may come in the future.. Born to survive! Your typical loose cannon in a suit of chain maille armor. Bring on the faire, I hear it calling my name!

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  • Gelfling6 commented on graydog111's instructable OIL FILTER WRENCH2 weeks ago
    OIL FILTER WRENCH

    Nice! I've whipped up a couple of fast versions of this, using a length of conduit, and an old seat belt. (new mechanic at a school bus yard didn't have a strap wrench, so I did a quick fabrication with spare parts) It's amazing, how simple it is, yet, how much strength it creates! (and I was 48 at the time.. LOL) (54 now)

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  • Gelfling6 commented on Complete maniac's instructable DIY Chainsaw-bike2 weeks ago
    DIY Chainsaw-bike

    40+ years later, only thing left is a 4 inch scar, about 1 inch at the widest. the belt still has just as much danger, but yeah, as you said, Safety inspector's nightmare, but, aren't most home-built projects?

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  • Gelfling6 commented on Complete maniac's instructable DIY Chainsaw-bike2 weeks ago
    DIY Chainsaw-bike

    Note items in upper-left of picture, in a kit from random distributor: http://www.bikeberry.com/engine-kit-parts/view-all-parts/motorized-bike-jackshaft-kit.html

    Nice Mod, but the4 only danger spots I see, even the cut-off pedal cranks and the unprotected chain from the motor down to the front sprocket, are a pair of major 'grab & tear' hazards! (shoe laces, pants cuff & leg).. There is a device called the 'Jack Shaft', for the Chinese Motor conversion kits, which is used to convert their engine's left-side drive, to the front, and also includes a replacement front sprocket with one fixed sprocket for the regular chain, and a cammed sprocket that will allow use of the pedals. But, my main concern, are the crank arms & exposed chain.. (sorry, had a engine-less Go-Kart rear sprocket grab a shirt and drag my back into the sprocket, Major gouge needed stitches!)

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  • DIY Cable Stripper Machine for Recycling Copper Wires.

    Nice! I made something similar, ages ago.. 2 roller bearings in a hand-held frame, with a carriage bolt & wingnut adjuster. (would pull the two arms with the bearings down to the wire.) It came in handy when I used to do a lot of chain maille knitting, stripping solid 14-guage wire. (I used the copper for inlayed designs in steel or aluminium armor.)

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  • Gelfling6 commented on Shoyu's instructable ScoutBot1 month ago
    ScoutBot

    I jotted down a similar design, but reverse of the leg joints.. (near body handled up/down, elbow handled swing forward/backward, and based on a Arduino. Well done!!!

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  • Gelfling6 commented on kiran.bholiyan's instructable Frequency Counter With Arduino 2 months ago
    Frequency Counter With Arduino

    I would add the code to be able to be downloaded, In the steps, it's all one solid jumble.

    ... also seems to be missing the library included... (lcd.h?)

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  • Gelfling6 commented on Alex in NZ's instructable Car Security Hack2 months ago
    Car Security Hack

    As a volunteer fire fighter, It was a well known method of though looking intimidating, the Club was NOT infallible. One thing to remember with steering wheels, is a thick padding, with a thin steel core, and not much holding the club after... Seen a few Police file photos, where the wheel was cut, and the club simply tossed into the back seat.

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  • Reuse Old CCFL Backlight TV Into Light Panel

    Done this myself, with the panel from an old iMac screen. The LCD was shattered, the motherboard snapped, the hard drive crushed, but.. the frame of the screen was still in good shape. Just a matter, as you've found, of activating the back-light signal.. I also found the level adjustable, and made for a great slide previewer (Slides? What are those? Sounds like ancient history? HAHA).

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  • How to Use RGB LEDs to Identify Colours - DIY Colour Sensor

    I noticed a few minor glitches.. the resistors to the RGB LED Inoticed, you listed as 100-Ohm, but noticed in one picture, they're 1K (1000), bands Brown-Black-Red, but in other photos noticed they're Brown-black-brown. Also, noticed you mentioned Pin 2 from the CDS cell running going to BOTH 3.3V & A0.. you might want to edit that to read a 10K (Brown-Black-Orange) going from that pin, to +3.3V. otherwise, A0 will constantly read the 3.3V voltage.Also, one minor note, I've run across common cathode, but more likely, I've hit some which are common anode.. might have to change the code to read the reverse....

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  • Introduction Library WifiManager for Esp8266

    I noticed you have this on the NodeMCU/ESP12, but curious if this can be accomplished with the ESP01 with only 1/2-gig RAM? (512M) The indicators could be just as easily sent out to GPIO0 & 2 (though, I would suggest inverting the outputs as not to pull the device into flash mode with GPIO0 pulling to GND through the LED.)

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  • Salvaging Liquid Crystal Displays (LCDs)

    Josehf, Count me as yet another wayward soul, with a pair identical to the 1st picture, Upper-right (8-pin Glass), and the HP C8413-60153 in the in the lower-left.. Any specs on these two? the 8-pin, I'm guessing SPI interface, and the HP I'll take a stab, re-arranged 1602 style. Thanks

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  • Gelfling6 commented on alby21europa's instructable Rescue a Bluetooth From Laptop3 months ago
    Rescue a Bluetooth From Laptop

    http://pinoutguide.com/PortableDevices/broadcom_bl...

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  •  5V DC Power Supply for Breadboard Using Phone Charger

    as _electronicsguy says below, NEVER use 5V or higher for ones marked Maximum 3.3V (they have an actual limit of 3.6V but that's still pushing the envelope.) .2V won't harm 5V rated, but anything above 5.4-5.8 might.. the difference, is TTL (5V) and CMOS (which used to be 6-12V before, now refers to 3.3V).. Alternate, if a USB phone (or other device) charger is too low a amperage (most rate from 100mA to 500mA) there's always the overkill solution, using one of the many converted ATX supply projects listed, and IF you can still find one, unsolder the molex power connector from a 3.5" Floppy drive (do they still make those?) unbend the pins, and use them as a power connector if the supply still has the mini-4 pin power connector..

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  • Gelfling6 commented on lathe_makeatio's instructable Desoldering Row Parts Easy3 months ago
    Desoldering Row Parts Easy

    The ONLY possible problem I see, is the flux you're using is Zinc Chloride. Great for Large-scale soldering jobs, but corrosive! I used to buy Rosin in blocks, melt it in a metal pot, and soak the wire (actually Copper mesh shield removed from lengths of Coax Cable) in the molten rosin. (heated to just short of it smoking.) Yes, Row-components are tough.. I've ended-up with melted plastic too.. Usually caused by the newer tin-copper (Lead-free) solder which has the higher melting temp.

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  • Hacking an Old School Toy Car Remote Control

    One of the easiest RC transmitter/receivers was the original VEX Robotics pair, since the output of the receiver was a TTL serial-stream output, and each channel was a block signal within the stream. (the Servo/Motor signals were in the form of 0 to 255 mS width, and the push-buttons were either solid 127mS (no button) 1 (High button) or 255 (low button)http://www.vexrobotics.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/t/r/transmitter-receiver-kit_1_2.jpg

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  • Gelfling6 commented on geotek's instructable Harvesting Electronic Components4 months ago
    Harvesting Electronic Components

    The flame from the torch is not what is toxic, but the fumes from burning phenolic (the old style PC boards), Epoxy-resin, and yes, even plastic. this is why he said, in the instructable, doing it OUTSIDE, with a breeze to carry the majority of the fumes away. Hot-Air will also cause the materials to burn just as much.. A 'SMT Re-work' station is a little more targeted (a 1/4"-3/8" square or circular tip version of the popular heat guns), but still just as capable of causing scorches and burn spots.

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  • Gelfling6 commented on geotek's instructable Harvesting Electronic Components4 months ago
    Harvesting Electronic Components

    One side note, I've recovered mainly 10-range resistors (10, 100, 1K, 10K, 100K,), and the crimped ones are still usable for some things.. Depends on how thick the PC board is, I've been able to get even a few 1/8-Watt resistors, with the pins straightened and long enough for breadboards, or reuse in another board. Don't discount the crimped ones, they're still recoverable.. Usually a pin under the lead, and lifting carefully while heating the solder. Also sometimes, a carefully placed flat screwdriver tip, and tapping gently, you can straighten the leads before unsoldering. LED's, I've found the blowtorch method can be LETHAL! (See below about different grades of solder).. the plastic and epoxy tends to melt before the solder does, ruining the LED..

    Glad to see I'm not the only one out here who recovers parts Via blow-torch! Though, it CAN take quite a few tries to do it without burning the board.. I'm finding various grades of solder, from the old Tin-Lead, to the more recent Tin-Copper which makes for worse case. Other tried & true method, either a desoldering iron with a squeeze-bulb, or I have some plunger-sty;e (press the plunger, heat the solder, press a button, ZIP!).. Tougher to find parts now-a-days, with "Mandatory Electronics Recycling", in which the town literally takes possession, and will not allow you to scavenge any. Since a lot of stuff is going 3.3V CMOS, I've had to retool a lot of the things I used to do at 5V TTL.

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  • Gelfling6 commented on omars2's instructable Simple Life Hack - Laptop Cooling Machine:4 months ago
    Simple Life Hack - Laptop Cooling Machine:

    A lot of times, I've found that as laptops get smaller, thinner, the companies don't take into effect, the cooling requirements of the CPU. I'm beginning to think it's a feature, more than a flaw!?!?! Also, try reverse flowing the air on the cooling fins, with a short burst of air.. A lot of the times, dust, hair, smoke particles (cooking, etc.), crud gets clogged between the cooling fan and the fins.. I'm glad your idea for a cooling fan uses an external power supply.. Never understood the logic of the USB powered ones, plugged into the computer (ADDING to the power load.)

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  • Gelfling6 commented on -BALES-'s instructable The "In Case of Emergency..." Display Box4 months ago
    The "In Case of Emergency..." Display Box

    LOL! Wish I could remember the TV show, Office scene, HUGE framed box in back of the executive, inside, a Straight-Jacket! Worked MANY jobs where such an emergency box would've come in handy! Nicely done!!!

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  • ESP8266 Based Web Configurable Wifi General Purpose Control (Part I)

    Took some googling, but.... Found it! New link: https://developer.mbed.org/users/sschocke/code/WiF... You need to scroll down, and see a file-link called [esp-flasher.zip], which will take you to a copy, which is inside the .zip file.. DOS-Only.. (and they wonder why i've gone to LUA/NodeMCU & ESPlorer on Linux? Nothing personal.) But xtcomm is supposed to be used for ONLY the AT/Espressif firmware.

    Likewise, just checked this 2 years after you posted it... the utility is no-longer available at the link...

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  • Gelfling6 commented on PranP1's instructable Make a DVD Drive for Your Laptop or Desktop5 months ago
    Make a DVD Drive for Your Laptop or Desktop

    I rescued a couple (more like 13!) laptops someplace junked, some were badly stripped, some still had hard drives, some had RAM.. Yes, it IS disheartening that the latest trend, is Want new, Discard Old. and the old is usually destroyed, salted for the gold, etc.. even though the devices are still 100% functional. I used a modified power cable (split the holder, and put a single wire for +5, and another for GND, ) and a ESATA socket to SATA cable, to power one of the spare DVD-RW/CD-RW drives to the ESATA socket on one, fed it a copy of Linux, and revived the device as a new Linux laptop. I've even gone as far, using an adaptor I pulled from a dead Blade-server (IBM, can't remember the model), which had a laptop-style IDE CD-ROM, and have been using it to test DVD/CD-RW IDE drives (th...

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    I rescued a couple (more like 13!) laptops someplace junked, some were badly stripped, some still had hard drives, some had RAM.. Yes, it IS disheartening that the latest trend, is Want new, Discard Old. and the old is usually destroyed, salted for the gold, etc.. even though the devices are still 100% functional. I used a modified power cable (split the holder, and put a single wire for +5, and another for GND, ) and a ESATA socket to SATA cable, to power one of the spare DVD-RW/CD-RW drives to the ESATA socket on one, fed it a copy of Linux, and revived the device as a new Linux laptop. I've even gone as far, using an adaptor I pulled from a dead Blade-server (IBM, can't remember the model), which had a laptop-style IDE CD-ROM, and have been using it to test DVD/CD-RW IDE drives (the adaptor goes from the mini connector, to a Mini-Molex power, and 40-pin IDE)

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  • Gelfling6 commented on Spoondish's instructable Mighty Homemade Chainmail Armour5 months ago
    Mighty Homemade Chainmail Armour

    the arms are fairly simple with wire rings, but with pop-tabs, not quite.. make a W-I-D-E strip about shoulder to wrist length, in the same rotation as the shoulders. (and about the same height as the inverted "U" of the vest shoulder holes.. ), attach to the shoulders, and then begin closing from the wrist end into a tube. Once you're about 8-inches from the flanks, begin attaching the inverted "U", back towards the wrist, (will require adding another horizontal row on one side, to even it out.) once you reach a odd-triangle, simply close with one. . this should give you a slightly downward to both sleeves. (which, read below, Stresses like crazy if you raise your arms a lot.) (picture of me, with a friend with the first Inlay I did, in copper & steel.)

    Nice Tab-Maille! But, hardly mighty.. Even butted (plain metal ring) tends to tear over time with stress in areas. (I've made steel, copper & aluminium wire rings. and every time, have a few shed. by opening)

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  • Gelfling6 commented on PaurushTheMaker's instructable FUN WITH a LAPTOP CHARGER5 months ago
    FUN WITH a LAPTOP CHARGER

    Nope! that's Lead, with Tin particulates.. while burning, or smoking, read as still Highly Toxic! I've pushed plain lead beyond red-hot quite a few times and formed the same yellow/white powder. Use breathing protection when pushing lead this far! Magnesium forms a powder the same way when it burns.

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  • Gelfling6 commented on TiborB7's instructable 18650 Battery Holder6 months ago
    18650 Battery Holder

    I know you said if using enough Hot glue, they're water proof, but what about Ventilated? When charging, or under heavy power draw, 18650's DO off-gas and need to vent. Great Idea though! I recently scrapped a few laptop batteries, and have been using two for a LED flashlight, but without the metal strips, cannot connect them to a camera battery charger I've been using to charge others.

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  • Gelfling6 commented on DrAndy's instructable Lua USB Twittier Notifier6 months ago
    Lua USB Twittier Notifier

    If you still have the software, you might want to update the link above Step #7, it no-longer exists at that location, and not able to find it on the home site anywhere.

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  • Gelfling6 commented on punisher_1211's instructable Power Supply From Old PSU6 months ago
    Power Supply From Old PSU

    Also, on some of the older supplies that had it, the white wire of the main connector, was actually -5V (Some older dynamic memory used it.), but newer supplies rarely have this included.

    饼干待机通常是+5 ...这是由电脑的瞬时接触开关来切换Pwr_On到GND ...(english)BiscuitsStandby usually is +5... this is used by the computer's momentary contact switch to toggle the Pwr_On to GND...

    饼干待机通常是+5 ...这是由电脑的瞬时接触开关来切换Pwr_On到GND ...(english)BiscuitsStandby usually is +5... this is used by the computer's momentary contact switch to toggle the Pwr_On to GND...

    A couple of notes, covered in other instructables of converting old AT supplies to Bench supplies:#1, IF the supply has been in use within at least an hour before mod, Assume the HV Capacitors as still charged! (read 110-200V Possible) apply a load across the +5 & +12, and wait that hour! Never rely on the discharge resistors to be functioning!#2, If the supply doesn't power-up with the Mains switch, make sure the green Pwr_On wire of the main board connecter is shorted to GND.#2A, IF the supply powers-up for only a few seconds, then powers-down on it's own, apply a load to +5 & +12.. IF it stays running with this load, but shuts-down without it, apply a 33-Ohm 5W (I've seen 10-Ohm, 10-Watt, but seemed kinda low) resistor across +5 to GND.

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  • Salvaging Rechargeables for Projects

    Someone, on Youtube, mentioned that some dead cells, you can revive, by CAREFULLY inserting a small, thin, and blunt object in below the vent holes of the + side, and applying slight pressure down.. Now, this is a tricky, if not DANGEROUS method, but it does work.. Apparently, cells which have become over-heated, vented, or developed a build-up of the electrolyte turned crystal, between the vent and the - side of the cell.. They mentioned some have an inner-shell, that becomes disconnected by either over-heat or, crystallized electrolyte, and refuses to re-seal, or 'reset'.. I've been able to recover about 98% of about 42 18650 cells this way.. the 2%, apparently I pushed too hard, and in doing so, reset, yes, but also punctured the seal. BAD!! result, when I recharged the batteries, t...

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    Someone, on Youtube, mentioned that some dead cells, you can revive, by CAREFULLY inserting a small, thin, and blunt object in below the vent holes of the + side, and applying slight pressure down.. Now, this is a tricky, if not DANGEROUS method, but it does work.. Apparently, cells which have become over-heated, vented, or developed a build-up of the electrolyte turned crystal, between the vent and the - side of the cell.. They mentioned some have an inner-shell, that becomes disconnected by either over-heat or, crystallized electrolyte, and refuses to re-seal, or 'reset'.. I've been able to recover about 98% of about 42 18650 cells this way.. the 2%, apparently I pushed too hard, and in doing so, reset, yes, but also punctured the seal. BAD!! result, when I recharged the batteries, they produced a liquid of the electrolyte, which formed on top of the cell just outside the vent.. Dispose of these properly as mentioned! (not just throw away, but safe disposal. The electrolyte is an alkali, and can cause chemical burns.)

    Also, remember, Most chargers for these batteries, will charge them to 4.2 Volts (+/- .02).. If you plan on using them for projects which have a top voltage of 3.9 (I've safely run a few per the datasheets said 3.6 was maximum, at about 3.8V without problem, But....) worse case, always add a Lx117-33 (examples L1117-33, L8117L33) low-dropout regulator, just to be safe!

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  • Flashing NodeMCU on Esp8266 and Getting Started

    correction on that 2nd youtube link, should've been "www.lua.org"

    the file itself may not exist.. Actually, IF the ESP is responding with the "cannot open...", you DO have nodemcu properly burned.. I just succeeded earlier this afternoon, with 0.9.5, just grabbed 0.9.6 from here.. Worse case, log onto www.YouTube.com , and give it the search "esp8266 hack #", there are 4 videos, where the person shows how to restore the original AT Command software, Burn NodeMCU, and program it to a simple html to toggle GPIO2 (I'm still trying to figure all of the notes of the differences between GIO#'s between the -12, the NodeMCU-1, and the -01 (apparently, the firmware re-assigns some of them.) Also look-up www.YouTube.com , to learn some of the language.. (which I've been doing the past 2 days..)

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  • Gelfling6 commented on ZakriyaP's instructable Obstacle Preventing Car.7 months ago
    Obstacle Preventing Car.

    Only one minor critique, Noticed in the wiring diagram, Digital pin 8 is not connected to anything, so misc. code.. (a few bytes saved, but..) Nicely done though!!!

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  • Gelfling6 commented on TonesB's instructable ESP8266 WiFi Module for Dummies7 months ago
    ESP8266 WiFi Module for Dummies

    So-far, I've been finding the same problem.. Most projects seem to be wired for the device to be powered off whatever it's plugged into (USB<-->FTDI , Arduino, etc.) and the regulators on those devices are at best going to give you 250mA, not even scratching the requirements if they intend on using the WiFi in any way.. ) I kinda cheat... Most of my breadboard projects, I've powered off reclaimed ATX Supplies.. I have 2, where the 3.3V output is rated up as high as 28A!! (that's 28000mA!!!!).. Absolutely no Brown-out (power loss), but also playing with fire if there is a short or wired in reverse.I usually wire the supply to a separate rail on the breadboard, and common-GND everything.. VCC from the USB-FTDI and +3.3V from the supply, are _NEVER_ connected together! I've als...

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    So-far, I've been finding the same problem.. Most projects seem to be wired for the device to be powered off whatever it's plugged into (USB<-->FTDI , Arduino, etc.) and the regulators on those devices are at best going to give you 250mA, not even scratching the requirements if they intend on using the WiFi in any way.. ) I kinda cheat... Most of my breadboard projects, I've powered off reclaimed ATX Supplies.. I have 2, where the 3.3V output is rated up as high as 28A!! (that's 28000mA!!!!).. Absolutely no Brown-out (power loss), but also playing with fire if there is a short or wired in reverse.I usually wire the supply to a separate rail on the breadboard, and common-GND everything.. VCC from the USB-FTDI and +3.3V from the supply, are _NEVER_ connected together! I've also run into quite a few FTDI modules, where, despite the switch being set to 3.3V, the VCC is still punching +5V. (Deek-Robot's version, with the slide switch, as example.)

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  • Gelfling6 commented on Hulkco's instructable The cheapest ESP8266 programmer!10 months ago
    The cheapest ESP8266 programmer!

    only one minor err I spot, on the fritzing drawing.. note you have a wire going from vcc (the 3.3V power rail) to the CH_PD pin, and the reset switch, and the other side of the switch to GND (causing a dead short when pressed, to the 3.3V supply.) I think you meant to create a red wire from the CH_PD to VCC, and only a single wire from the open end of the switch, to RST. Otherwise, that's going to be brutal on the 3.3V regulator

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  • Gelfling6 commented on dhakshinmoorthy's instructable ESP826610 months ago
    ESP8266

    the ESP8266-01 (above displayed module) is a wee bit limited on I/O (since it only has GPIO0 & 2 only on the pins, but it itself, is a full-fledged MCU, with a built in 802.11B/G/N WiFi which can be configured to access point, or node (client or host).I don't think they got to finish their instructable, as page-2 seems to end abruptly. The 3.3V regulator on the Arduino, however, is not really that strong, and tends to brown-out on the ESP8266's draw requirements (300mA. the 1117 regulator only has a max output of 100mA), so it's better to use an external 3.3V power source. there are some hacks out there, if your hands are steady enough, to get 2 more GPIO's (can't remember their #'s, or find the link to the instructable), you can actually run a small web server to those 2 origina...

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    the ESP8266-01 (above displayed module) is a wee bit limited on I/O (since it only has GPIO0 & 2 only on the pins, but it itself, is a full-fledged MCU, with a built in 802.11B/G/N WiFi which can be configured to access point, or node (client or host).I don't think they got to finish their instructable, as page-2 seems to end abruptly. The 3.3V regulator on the Arduino, however, is not really that strong, and tends to brown-out on the ESP8266's draw requirements (300mA. the 1117 regulator only has a max output of 100mA), so it's better to use an external 3.3V power source. there are some hacks out there, if your hands are steady enough, to get 2 more GPIO's (can't remember their #'s, or find the link to the instructable), you can actually run a small web server to those 2 original pins, (I2C, or direct digital).

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  • Build a working fusion reactor model: the real life Arc Reactor

    AH! I thought I recognized the application.. One minor caviet, the plasma it generates, is also putting off lots of X-Ray bandwidth. Only operate this short-term, and reduce exposure. Also, be extra careful, with the jar and the vacuum pump. the source of what I recognize this from, was an old issue of MAKE: Magazine, called 'A Nuclear Fusor', where it also warns of the glass imploding from the vacuum, and the X-Ray exposure. Still, Great job!http://makezine.com/projects/make-36-boards/nuclear-fusor/

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  • Gelfling6 commented on Romain7333's instructable Wifi Relay With ESP826610 months ago
    Wifi Relay With ESP8266

    My only suggestion, would be only one device should handle the UI, but know the URL for each device, I.E. sending page as one solid, but each button pressed would send back the device's URL, and which port to control. You would then need each device to report back it's status to the main device. could get complicated, but not impossible..

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  • How to Use XBee Modules As Transmitter & Receiver - Arduino Tutorial

    for the Series-1, it SHOULD be within the first page, as shown, at the bottom.. (step 2, of this instructable) at least for the S1 (series-1).. I can't remember (or find mine at this time) where exactly it is on the S2 versions in the set-up parameters. One radio, must be configured as a coordinator, and for S1's others are as End devices, and I believe S2's have a 3rd mode, Router, which relay signals to the end points.

    All else failes, You can return the device to Factory default (on the read, Write Restore, click Restore, then re-read the settings. it should be default (S1 & S2) as coordinator.

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  • Gelfling6 commented on yhtomitsy's instructable Configuring xBee in API mode11 months ago
    Configuring xBee in API mode

    I'm glad your version is using the new version of X-CTU. Majority of the other configuration videos keep showing the old version.. the Windows-theme is a lot more complicated in comparison, but I've noticed it has the 'Force Unbrick' capability.

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  • Definitive Guide to Setting Up Your New ESP01 Module

    In the past year, the ESP8266 has made it's debut, and and there aer several flavors of it (the -01 is the base, 2-available GPIO pin, though some have been able to tack 2 more from the SMT chip itself.).. look-up www.esp8266.com , which is the community forum. website.

    Note, even though Sparkfun has retired it, there are plenty of China Clones available off EBay.. ( Item: 311649371486 as example) . I picked-up 3x 8-position bi-directional level shifters quite a few months back.

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  • Making ESP8266-01 module breadboard friendly

    I just did an Ebay search.. Yeah, they ARE hard to find! Practically non-existant! Did find 2X2 & 2X5... but 2X4, none....

    As others have said below, You short the pins from 1-2, 3-4, 5-6, and 7-8.. most breadboards are 5-pin vertical connections... running in a |||||||| - fashion. Each line, being up to 5 pins per. (note the hole pattern.) the 8-pin plug of the -01, is thinking more in the direction of a ribbon-cable IDC connector. -_-_-_-_ Style.

    I would tend to agree.. A good adaptor, yes. But, cost prohibitive.. Another alternative, if you can find a electronics supplier who still sells the old type stuff, an 8-Pin IDC socket to Wire-Wrap pins. (roughly 3/4" pins extending through the perf board, and you used to wrap thin-insulated wire to each connection with a tool that wrapped it tightly to the pin.) Though, I DO like the adaptor's silk-screen labeling. What is the pin spacing? standard wide DIP?

    Actually, Not a drawback.. Remember, the ESP8266-01 itself is going to overhang one direction, (toward it's antenna) so it's best to have that rise above the board a little, for connections to pins 2,4,6 & 8. the last 2 protoboards I just got for the Arduino, I've also bought a few through-pin extenders, and removed the stock pin headers from the protoboards, making up to 2-each connections to each pin. This way, adding yet another pair of headers I can put things on the protoboard, and put the LCD-Keyboard above it. (I.E. a remote control, using the XBEE, sitting on top of the protoboard.) (never really liked the placement of the inner-pin sockets, being out of alllignment.)

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  • Automotive Industry style Life Size Mechanical Platform Robot 6 foot tall in Detroit.

    You know, I see a lot of people more on the flack side, than the encouragement end. Now mind you, it's a platform. as stated, not a defacto working production model. going further would require a stabilisation gyro, faster running gear motors, etc.. Personally I like it! Answering Han_Solo_Order66's question, I'm assuming you're using a captured nut on the inner pipe, and the inner pipe would itself need to be fixed (kept from rolling) by whatever it is attached. Looks about right.

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  • Driving Bi-Polar Stepper Motor with Keyes L298N

    You could, but I've heard rumors of possible problems of back-feeding the +5V, raising havoc with the switching between USB & on-board regulated +5V.I would never, however, feed the +5V pin of the arduino to the LM298N alone, rather, a separate +5V supply should be used. this causes the Arduino's regulator chip to overload, and causes the AVR itself to brown-out with lack of power. Never power anything stronger than 2 RC servos off the +5 pin! I've run most of my projects off a +12V output from a modified ATX supply, BUT... fed the power through two regulators in series, from +12 to the input of a 7809 (+9V regulator), and the output from the 7809 to the input of a separate 7805 (+5v regulator) , creating a +9V rail (Arduino main supply) and +5V rail (servo, other logic requiring h...

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    You could, but I've heard rumors of possible problems of back-feeding the +5V, raising havoc with the switching between USB & on-board regulated +5V.I would never, however, feed the +5V pin of the arduino to the LM298N alone, rather, a separate +5V supply should be used. this causes the Arduino's regulator chip to overload, and causes the AVR itself to brown-out with lack of power. Never power anything stronger than 2 RC servos off the +5 pin! I've run most of my projects off a +12V output from a modified ATX supply, BUT... fed the power through two regulators in series, from +12 to the input of a 7809 (+9V regulator), and the output from the 7809 to the input of a separate 7805 (+5v regulator) , creating a +9V rail (Arduino main supply) and +5V rail (servo, other logic requiring higher amperage.) all common GND. I keep running into steppers which are in the 1.0 to 5-Ohm range, which leads me to believe they're more of the 3V & 5V coils, and feeding +12V to them would fry them.You can alter the L298N, by removing the jumper that send VMs (+12V, Motor Supply), and run a jumper from the VMs terminal, and put it in with the +5V terminal, with the wire from the external 7805. This applies +5V to both the logic & Motor Supply sides of the L298N. (also, if your motors are in the 15-36V Range, Remove this jumper!! Critical! anything higher than 15V will Cook the onboard regulator! and simply supply a separate +5 Logic supply.)

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  • Gelfling6 commented on makjosher's instructable Simple Sheet Metal Brake: No Welding1 year ago
    Simple Sheet Metal Brake: No Welding

    I made a similar device, using just a single barn-door hinge, a strip of metal stock drilled to the holes of the regular end of the hinge, and a set of wing nuts & recessed screws.. Built it to bend pieces of strip-stock aluminum to make a X-Y servo gimble. http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/national-...

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  • Gelfling6 commented on samuel123abc's instructable Arduino Nano CH3401 year ago
    Arduino Nano CH340

    Odd... I downloaded the latest Arduino IDE, and ran the 'install.sh' as administrator, (If you're using the Ubuntu Software release, it's the old 1.0.5, latest release is 1.6.11).. no problems what so ever under Ubuntu 16.04, the stock CH340g chip on my nano, and whatever driver the IDE installed, works just fine.

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  • DIY Claymore Cosplay

    Despite the anime/manga ties, the claymore was also a sword. A long, tapered blade, slightly "V"'ed hilt, 2-handed (long wood handle, with a ornamental pommel.)Nicely done on the armor! Actually, I think the hip armor was actually more protection, than useless.. Even traditional english plate armor had plenty of covering to the hips, because the pelvis is quite fragile, and once you no-longer have legs to stand on, You're pretty much done for. (This coming from a 53 yr old, who wears semi-traditional chain maille to renaissance faires.) (Picture of me on the right, with a student I got started on knitting.)

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  • Gelfling6 commented on oddlyk1's instructable How to catch crickets!1 year ago
    How to catch crickets!

    Depends on what angle the bottle neck was.. Despite the untouched bottle in step 3, They CAN follow to the opening. But if they cannot climb to it, they stay inside. (too steep an incline, smooth wall.) If the neck of the bottle was facing downward, they simply crawl out after noshing the bait. if the neck opening was mid-air, (cut the top along the widest part, invert and insert the neck into the bottom piece), they cannot find it.. same way with a Carpenter Bee trap. they fal down through the small funnel in the center-top, but cannot fly back to get out of it.

    In step 3, the crickets aren't too dumb.. they Can find their way to the bottle neck, and climb out, though with some bottles, the neck is too steep an incline or too smooth, and they slide back in. Saw on Youtube, someone cut the bottle just below the neck, and inverted it into the bottom piece, then put a small piece of wood for the crickets to climb. result, they climb through the neck, but cannot reach it to get back out. Also, used small pieces of fruit allowed to spoil/rot a little as bait. (trying a cherry tomato I cut-up.) Trying to get a little 'Local Flavor' (pun) for a friend's Bearded Dragon. To the person who 6 yrs ago, worried about their frog dying, You CAN get live crickets & meal worms from the pet store, relatively cheap. wild crickets aren't the only source.

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  • Gelfling6 commented on alizaliz's instructable Giant USB Volume Knob1 year ago
    Giant USB Volume Knob

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PC-30-17mm-Black-Anodized-Machined-Solid-Aluminum-DVD-Potentiometer-Volume-Knob-/321441068287?hash=item4ad76174ff:g:lZQAAOSwZ8ZW6VsR

    If you can find the item again, just copy/paste the URL, like above.. some of the other instructables have links to their items too, as well as others pointing to optional sources the same way. I imagine you can also add the IR library, and add additional control with a IR remote, as well as the local volume control. Simply add the key-code to the same controls as the encoder (up/down) and mute button. Nice job!!!

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  • Gelfling6 commented on ghochman's instructable Kitchen Helper Tower1 year ago
    Kitchen Helper Tower

    If stability is the main concern, Perhaps, if there is enough 2X4 left, outfit the legs of the step stool, with a pair of of bigger feet, extending outward. _/ \_ , simply nailed to the bottom of the legs. One other suggestion for the new builders, have the toddler help-out building it! Get their creative building started early!

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  • Making ESP8266-01 module breadboard friendly

    they needn't be exact 8=pin.. a 10-pin or even 12-pin, you just waste-off a few pins. I use a pair of 6-pin inline extension headers (Arduino-shield style, for the power & Analog header), in a "Y" to the 8266-01's pins, to the breadboard, (just leaving the outer 4 pins open.)

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  • Gelfling6 commented on BrittLiv's instructable Thor's Hammer Toilet Brush1 year ago
    Thor's Hammer Toilet Brush

    For those really tough Midguardian messes! By Odin's beard, Banner, what did you eat?

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  • Gelfling6 commented on BrittLiv's instructable Thor's Hammer Toilet Brush1 year ago
    Thor's Hammer Toilet Brush

    Oh, the humor (Mostly Bathroom humor) that goes with this! LOL!!! For those REALLY tough cleaning jobs, for when the **** REALLY hits the fan!Nicely done!!!!

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  • Gelfling6 commented on CWAVE6K's instructable Apple Power Mac G5 Power Connector1 year ago
    Apple Power Mac G5 Power Connector

    I've seen a similar version of the socket... on the back of an IBM Xseries eServer, on both supplies, and I'm taking a wild guess, they're supposed to be a Euro version of the standard power cord, because the G5 I have, has the standard power cord... (and I'm trying to find a pair of spare Male sockets to replace them.) (since I don't have a 3D printer)

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  • Gelfling6 commented on Ugifer's instructable Arduino Controlled ATX Power Supply1 year ago
    Arduino Controlled ATX Power Supply

    Yes, you can, BUT..... I've heard a few saying if you try to connect some of the arduinos (R2 and back) +5V line, it can do damage to the circuit that switches from the USB +5V to the regulator +5V.. (haven't actually seen this myself.. Duiemilinova worked fine..) as long as you're not pulling too hard on the 2A standby (with an arduino? not likely.)

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  • Gelfling6 commented on prodlad's instructable Things to do with a old computer1 year ago
    Things to do with a old computer

    I used to scavenge and rebuild all kinds of computers from the discards of others. My present main machine is an AMD64 X2 someone tossed, in the case of a dead Dual-code-quad, with 6 internal drives (2x1T, 2x500GB, 1x 160GB & a 80GB main drive.) 8GB of RAM, a Gigbyte Invidia 1GB graphics card, with a few extra cards. ALL scavenged! Alas, the town I used to live in, began a 'Mandatory E-Waste Recycling' program several years ago, and, I can no-longer obtain the parts I used to.. (All devices, once placed in the bin, become property of the town, which then sells it off to a E-Waste recycling/recovery company. After all of the precious metals they salt out, I can only imagine the amount of caustic and contaminated waste they still need to dispose of? So-far, UBUNTU, and a few varie...

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    I used to scavenge and rebuild all kinds of computers from the discards of others. My present main machine is an AMD64 X2 someone tossed, in the case of a dead Dual-code-quad, with 6 internal drives (2x1T, 2x500GB, 1x 160GB & a 80GB main drive.) 8GB of RAM, a Gigbyte Invidia 1GB graphics card, with a few extra cards. ALL scavenged! Alas, the town I used to live in, began a 'Mandatory E-Waste Recycling' program several years ago, and, I can no-longer obtain the parts I used to.. (All devices, once placed in the bin, become property of the town, which then sells it off to a E-Waste recycling/recovery company. After all of the precious metals they salt out, I can only imagine the amount of caustic and contaminated waste they still need to dispose of? So-far, UBUNTU, and a few varients (Ultimate Edition, KUBUNTU, etc..) run right out of the box (as long as you run the x64 of x86 version to match.) I've been running Ubuntu for about 2 years now, main machine running 16.04 x64, I totally agree! Unless there is actually something physically broken (burned out, over-cooked, (Too-clocked)), too many people toss out, wanting the latest, greatest, fastest gaming machines.. My main machine would've qualified as one of those 6-8 years ago, but it runs just fine! (and it runs OpenArena 0.8.8)

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  • Controlling an Arduino based Rover with IR Remote

    If I can ever find where I stored it (stack of hard drives), I wrote code for a similar design, using the Parallax Basic Stamp-2, using their B.O.E.-Bot frame, which was a 3-function robot, (IR obstacle Avoid, IR close-follow/Object tracking, and manual remote control.) very similar to this design. I had the code also re-written to Arduino Wiring, and used to run a VEX Robot frame/motors the same using the Arduino as the brains. (Using a SONY remote.) Not 100% sure, though, the remote you have transmits Sony protocol.. I just recently got the same, and it runs NEC protocol. (the repeat from holding a button, is a solid FFFFFF )

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  • Gelfling6 commented on cavelamb's instructable Battery power for the QuickStart board1 year ago
    Battery power for the QuickStart board

    Awhile back, I scrapped the remains of a PS4 wireless Controller, and salvaged the 3.7V Lithium-Ion battery pack from it.. I inserted two short IDC header pins (roughly 3/8" (a little more than 1.5cm) into the pack's plug, and I soldered a 2X4 IDC socket header into the VDD/VSS pins to the right of the 40-pin header on the Quickstart. The battery pack NEVER gets charged any other method, other than plugging it into the header, and charging the pack through the onboard-3.3V regulator, while the chips are at idle (a simple print "Hello" program written to RAM, which stays dormant after it runs from the USB terminal), and the + pin plugged into the VDD pins and - pin plugged into the VSS pin of the 2X4 header. Strictly a short-term battery which will allow running the quick...

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    Awhile back, I scrapped the remains of a PS4 wireless Controller, and salvaged the 3.7V Lithium-Ion battery pack from it.. I inserted two short IDC header pins (roughly 3/8" (a little more than 1.5cm) into the pack's plug, and I soldered a 2X4 IDC socket header into the VDD/VSS pins to the right of the 40-pin header on the Quickstart. The battery pack NEVER gets charged any other method, other than plugging it into the header, and charging the pack through the onboard-3.3V regulator, while the chips are at idle (a simple print "Hello" program written to RAM, which stays dormant after it runs from the USB terminal), and the + pin plugged into the VDD pins and - pin plugged into the VSS pin of the 2X4 header. Strictly a short-term battery which will allow running the quickstart for a little while after the USB plug is unplugged. I've also run the device from a pair of Lithium-Ion batteries (2x in parallel, scavenged from a Laptop battery pack, and separated from the rest of the pack & electronics) the same way.. As long as the battery is charged through the regulator, there is little chance of the pack rising in voltage above 3.4V.. But.... this is still not a recommended method.. (already got chewed out in the Parallax forums, warning that the pack if charged normally (5V directly to the pack), it can retain up to 4.4V (.7V more), which could be detrimental to the propeller. Well understood!) I only use the packs for short-term use. Mainly for the 'Whack-A-Mole' game while waiting for other things to finish.

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  • Gelfling6 commented on BEHROOZK2's instructable Bootloader Shield for Arduino Uno1 year ago
    Bootloader Shield for Arduino Uno

    Excellent job! One thing I'm having problems with, the ATMega8U2 on a MEGA2650 I have, has begun acting up (locks up everything on the host computer, acting like it's a USB/Serial keyboard, and I never altered the firmware for it.), I've tried the bootloader reburn (connecting an UNO to the ISP socket (the 6-pin header) of the MEGA,) and that worked, But... It seems it's the 8u2 what is acting up.. Unfortunately, there is no link within the IDE, to assign the bootloader option, to look at a 8u2 or 16u2.. Maybe now, would be a good idea, to suggest that for 1.7.0?

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  • Build a Quick, Easy (& Free) Ground Terminal!

    Whew! For a second there, I thought you were suggesting using the bolt screw, to connect to a grounding pin of a power socket. (AC house Current ('.') ) (In certain parts of Europe, BAD Idea! since all 3 socket holes are round!). Another alternative, I usually use a Protoshield with the Arduino, and simply assign two wires from the two GND pins, to two adjacent breadboard pin sets[:::::], giving 8 more GND plugs. [::::]I just modified a pair of Protoshields, removing the outer pin rails, and replacing them with through-hold sockets, so now each pin is doubled. Mainly did this, because I wanted to use the Protoshield along with the keypad/LCD shield

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  • D.I.Y Ultra Quiet Shop compressor from a refrigerator motor (compressor)

    Also, they make oil filter/recovery units similar to in-line moisture traps. (usually has a metal particle filter inside a semi-sealed glass container, with a drain valve on the bottom) to reduce the oil mist content. This mist may also be because of the 10W40 actually over-heating, practically boiling.... (link to a example trap, http://www.ebay.com/p/afr2000-air-pressure-regulator-water-separator-trap-filter-airbrush-compressor/1272654119 )

    Totally agreed! the relief valve should be kept away from any source of moisture, so as it will not become contaminated & Jammed (corrosion between the metal surfaces, like putting sand between metal plates) . Also the drain plug should be of the kind that opens inward (pushes into the tank), as this breaks through any contaminants than could jam a normal valve shut.

    Step #3, 10W40? might not be a good idea.. It's not made for being agitated like the internal workings of a refrigeration compressor (where mechanical parts will be whipping it like cream! or in this case, instant grease.) Compressor specific oils (for regular belt-driven compressors) are made to handle the possibility of air getting mixed, as well as high heat.The oil drained from the compressor is already laden with refrigerant, (if you heat it, It'll actually foam-boil trying to release the refrigerant.) and not the same as compressor oil used in auto shops.) Also, engine oils has a detergent added, which will allow water (from even ambient humidity) to intermix, which will cause the oil to whip-up like a grease. Compressor specific oils, do not have this detergent added.

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  • How to modify a fridge compressor into a silent air compressor

    from what I can trace of it, but not being able to see the entire exploded parts view at the top of the picture, You need to connect Neutral (usually the white wire) to connector "N" (obiously marked for Neutral), and the Hot (power) wire to "L" (Line), but then comes the tricky part.. Note connector "C"? the thermostat goes between "L" & "C", so, HERE you would place the pressure switch (pressure low=NC, Pressure peak =NO)the cooling fan needn't be between N & C, the dotted lines are Common-Ground (GND), your main power is the spot marked with the sine wave (at the bottom. the lamp & switch are the 'internal light', so, not required. (note they're connected to the "L" & "N" posts so they get power whe...

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    from what I can trace of it, but not being able to see the entire exploded parts view at the top of the picture, You need to connect Neutral (usually the white wire) to connector "N" (obiously marked for Neutral), and the Hot (power) wire to "L" (Line), but then comes the tricky part.. Note connector "C"? the thermostat goes between "L" & "C", so, HERE you would place the pressure switch (pressure low=NC, Pressure peak =NO)the cooling fan needn't be between N & C, the dotted lines are Common-Ground (GND), your main power is the spot marked with the sine wave (at the bottom. the lamp & switch are the 'internal light', so, not required. (note they're connected to the "L" & "N" posts so they get power when the compressor is off. but turns on the light when the switch is closed (door open, AKA a NC SPST switch,) )

    If you plan on using a double-pole pressure switch to cut all power at peak pressure, you need to add a jumper between L & C (bypassing what would have been the thermostat.), and put the output wires from the pressure switch to L & N (and, just to CMA (Cover My A..) , ALWAYS check connections with a ohm/Continuity tester with the circuit un-plugged before adding power!)

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  • Bicycle Cell Phone Charger (Wind Turbine with build in Battery)

    I like the idea, but I may be ending-up in the "Engineer-Naysayers" group.. Most fans like this do not generate AC or DC out when run like this.. they are usually wired as a DC to stepper motor style (the DC voltage is sent through a circuit that turns on one coil, then the next, shuts-off the previous coil, then turns it back on as it goes around, turns off the 2nd again, alternating the two.) The chip (in picture 3 of step 2, with 4-wires) is a combination driver & Hall-Effect sensor. it doesn't generate any voltage.. The sensor is for making sure the impeller/magnet is spinning, and telling how fast it's going (tachometer). The coil & board pack are not easy to remove (I've tried.. they epoxy the daylights out of these, and you either snap the support post, or en...

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    I like the idea, but I may be ending-up in the "Engineer-Naysayers" group.. Most fans like this do not generate AC or DC out when run like this.. they are usually wired as a DC to stepper motor style (the DC voltage is sent through a circuit that turns on one coil, then the next, shuts-off the previous coil, then turns it back on as it goes around, turns off the 2nd again, alternating the two.) The chip (in picture 3 of step 2, with 4-wires) is a combination driver & Hall-Effect sensor. it doesn't generate any voltage.. The sensor is for making sure the impeller/magnet is spinning, and telling how fast it's going (tachometer). The coil & board pack are not easy to remove (I've tried.. they epoxy the daylights out of these, and you either snap the support post, or end-up snapping the wires to the coils. (and they usually solder the pins to the coil down tight to the board.)) Also, on fans with a 3rd of 4th wire (one is the tachometer output, but that is usually a powered signal from the DC voltage, the other is a resistor/temperature output)If you can manage to get the board & coil off the frame without doing damage, You have a 3-wire, 2-coil (one common center) |^^|^^| , which you can wire to.. You can actually get the most voltage out of just one coil at a time, because of the magnet arrangement, One will be dropping as the other rises. (so wiring the two outside wires will give only half Maximum, and trying to wire the two outer ends will cause one to short (Collision style) the other as the voltages ride/fall.)An AC fan (run by AC voltage, not DC) will not generate any, if VERY little.. the magnet is replaced by a stepped steel armature, and any magnetic field it has would be delegable. I still like the idea! There's another plan here in the instructables, of a Quad-Copter made from E-Waste, But I wonder seriously, how they managed to modify the DC fans, to produce enough speed, for the same reason I mentioned about the epoxy holding things together.Don't give up though! Note I said not easy.. I didn't say impossible!

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  • Gelfling6 commented on brico3d's instructable Old PC Recycled Regulable Power Supply1 year ago
    Old PC Recycled Regulable Power Supply

    One thing, I would suggest.. Moving the actual On/Off switch to the front panel, and not removing/altering the rear switch. The front (green wire) switch should be as a "stand-by" (put the supply into a sleep mode), and if the rear switch is a DPST (Double-poles, single throw), It's there for a reason! To isolate the entire supply from the mains.=//= Note, that the +5Vsb will always be live, even if the green wire is not connected.

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  • How to Make a Super Flashlight ? TUTORIAL

    To answer the others asking, YES, that IS a 'Fly Zapper' racket handle, and You're applying the H-V lines from the circuit to the opposing ends of the CFL Tube. I also have to agree, the use of a non-contained CL tube is begging for disaster. (glass, and the (from an old Haz-Mat Operational-level (Warm-zone clean-up) Ex Firefighter's perspective) Mercury-Vapor (and extreme minute amounts of actual mercury droplets) overkill of the hazardous material. It is a bit hazardous. (trust me, we're exposed to more eating any kind of Ocean Fish, not just sword fish.) I would suggest a encapsulated (Plastic cover over the CFL tube) light, instead of an exposed one. The H-V circuit in the racket handle, turns the CFL into a semi-Electro-Luminescent light. (HV exciting the mercury vapor, and formi...

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    To answer the others asking, YES, that IS a 'Fly Zapper' racket handle, and You're applying the H-V lines from the circuit to the opposing ends of the CFL Tube. I also have to agree, the use of a non-contained CL tube is begging for disaster. (glass, and the (from an old Haz-Mat Operational-level (Warm-zone clean-up) Ex Firefighter's perspective) Mercury-Vapor (and extreme minute amounts of actual mercury droplets) overkill of the hazardous material. It is a bit hazardous. (trust me, we're exposed to more eating any kind of Ocean Fish, not just sword fish.) I would suggest a encapsulated (Plastic cover over the CFL tube) light, instead of an exposed one. The H-V circuit in the racket handle, turns the CFL into a semi-Electro-Luminescent light. (HV exciting the mercury vapor, and forming a L-O-N-G & W-I-D-E arc through it.)

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  • Gelfling6 commented on shaner926's instructable Water Filter1 year ago
    Water Filter

    The more ai look at the filters for these 'Jug' container 'Drip-Filter", I wonder if their filters could be adapted into a similar in-line filter?

    I.E. I m,ean the type you put into the top of the 'Jug', pour water into the reservoir on top, and it filters through like a drip coffee maker. Could a in-line filter like yours, be adapted to have that kind of cartridge 'replaceable' inside? I don't think they're made for high pressure, but using a hand pump like you have, low pressure through

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