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Hi, I built my LED Cube with a common cathode and I can only find scripts for common anode arrangements. Is there any difference between the two and if there is, can anyone help me figure out the code for a common cathode arrangement?
Charliecube -- Charlieplexed 4x4x4 RGB LED cube
4x4x4 LED cube upgrade with Shift Registers (74hc595)
Yes, you can use any other Arduino as long as it has enough pins. Just "rewire" them from the code itself. Good luck! - Igan
Hi I noticed that in the pic above, it is arduino leonardo..... But can I use arduino Uno as well? - PuteraN1
Do you have an common cathode version?
Hey can i build a common cathode rgb. Using this format?
MHI Turbo Rebuilding and Modifications
If you can get the switch out, you may have to rewire a new switch, and drill a hole and mount the new switch. I would see if you can get the old bolt off, even if I had to chisel/file/saw it off.
OK. yesterday I understand that. I splatted a positive powered fuse and got positive current from that and plugged the ground to the door switch. But then now I had another problem. The switch of the side door of my van is not working and it's probably unscrewable because the bolt is broken and now it's rounded one
Any constant 12v power source. If you cant find one, you may need to run a wire to the battery (or some place that you find 12v, with the key out). I suggest putting a small fuse, like 5amp, for short protection if you run a wire to the battery.
can anyone say how can i get power for this?
Awesome buddy, thats great news. Now that you have a working cube, you can mess with programs, and really make it your own thing.
Got around to looking at this again. Put all of the resistors in place. Fixed a lot of the ghosting, but not all. Removed the D13 onboard LED and NO MORE GHOSTS! Thanks for the tips. As soon as I get a case made for it, I will post a picture of my work.
DIfferent color LEDs have different forward voltages, the red ones are always very low, usually just under 2 volts, and the blue and green are around 3 volts. The ghosting you are seeing is a direct result of the unequal pairing. Since the microcontroller is running at 5v, and this design doesnt use resistors, technically they are runing much higher voltage (and current) than they should be, but the resistor value is different for different color LEDs, so you cant add one size resistor to equalize things. I have found that adding a resistor on each of the 16 microcontroller leads does help reduce the ghosting some, but it comes at the cost of brightness.If the cube is run in daylight, its hard to see, if the cube is run in the dark, then being dimmer is not really a problem. Ive used between 75 and 150 ohms, and 100 ohms seems to work pretty good, but there is no perfect/ideal value.There is also a little bit of an issue with the built in LED on pin 13. Some folks remove the LED, others have re-wired and programmed to use a different pin than 13. It doesnt bother me, so I havnt bothered to change it.
I built your common anode version and got the tables right, all of the colors light when and where they are supposed to, but... Have you had any problems with 'ghosting.'? fre example, If I light green at 0,0,0 it comes on full brightness, however six other reds come on, very dimly. I tried adding resistors to the wires, but that did not help. I put a volt meter across the red leads and there is only 0.9V, which should not be enough to cross fhe Vf threshold.v
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