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  • Irritable_Badger commented on tomatoskins's instructable Make a Wood Tap From a Bolt2 weeks ago
    Make a Wood Tap From a Bolt

    Assuming an appropriately slow speed, tapping soft materials, like wood, the problem with the drill press is the spindle return spring trying to pull the tap out. Letting the tap "self feed" isn't an issue. On consumer drill presses the return spring is usually a flat wound coil inside a housing on the feed handle shaft on the opposite side of the head than the handle. Just take it off. If you can't slow your drill speed enough use a ratchet and socket to turn the spindle manually using the nut that holds the forward pulley. It doesn't need to be perfect. With few exceptions, wood has enough movement to cover the entire range of thread tolerances in any given 24 hour period. You don't actually want it to be too perfect. If you make it too tight the wood will end up splitting a...

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    Assuming an appropriately slow speed, tapping soft materials, like wood, the problem with the drill press is the spindle return spring trying to pull the tap out. Letting the tap "self feed" isn't an issue. On consumer drill presses the return spring is usually a flat wound coil inside a housing on the feed handle shaft on the opposite side of the head than the handle. Just take it off. If you can't slow your drill speed enough use a ratchet and socket to turn the spindle manually using the nut that holds the forward pulley. It doesn't need to be perfect. With few exceptions, wood has enough movement to cover the entire range of thread tolerances in any given 24 hour period. You don't actually want it to be too perfect. If you make it too tight the wood will end up splitting around the fastener as it moves throughout the seasons.

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  • Irritable_Badger commented on tomatoskins's instructable Make a Wood Tap From a Bolt2 weeks ago
    Make a Wood Tap From a Bolt

    Tapping a hole in wood using a drill or drill press isn't a problem unless you're using very small screws (smaller than #4) or high speeds. The wood is softer than non-rigid "flex" tapping collets. In naturally oily woods you don't even need to predrill the hole. You can make the hole and cut the threads simultaneously with the tap. In rigid tapping operations in metal it's a different story because chips and heat are the enemy. Insufficient coolant, misalignment of the tool with the hole or simply excess speed will lead to broken taps almost immediately.

    Yes. It just gets the tap crusty with wood. The relief in the tap isn't designed to self clean very soft chips. Just brush it out with a toothbrush or it'll rust.

    Use a hacksaw to cut the bolt. Cut between two threads and you not only don't beat up the threads, you're left with a nice sharp "tooth" that makes initial alignment much easier when you start taping and it leads in much easier.Put paraffin wax on the tap to lubricate the tool. Just rub the block across the threads. It's about $3 for a box of 4 blocks of wax and you'll lose it before you ever run out. It's in every grocery store and in the US it's usually sold under the "Gulf" brand. You can also use it on drawer runners in furniture if you've got sticky drawers.

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  • Pedestal Box From One Board (Ebonized!)

    You can also get iron shavings with a piece of rebar and a bench grinder. Put a rectangular plastic bowl of water, or vinegar, (I got one from Walmart for less than $2) under the grinding wheel and start grinding away. You'll be surprised how fast it accumulates. Using the rebar also results in far faster chemical reaction and a more robust acetic acid because it's iron, not steel. That little bit of carbon that went into making the steel has a tremendous effect on the final product when you're using it in an application that calls for iron.

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  • Irritable_Badger commented on mikeasaurus's instructable 9 Easy Ways to Distress Wood5 months ago
    9 Easy Ways to Distress Wood

    A dirt and gravel road is a great distressing tool. Put the sides you want to distress on the road then walk around on the boards. You'll have to experiment with it, but it's really easy and the results are instant. If you don't weight a lot and want more distressing you can bounce up and down in places, but don't jump. It's too much and looks fabricated. If too much dirt/clay/mud gets packed on that's ok. Just scrape it off with a little muscle behind it. Practice with your road surface is key.What you are doing is replicating barn/southern farmhouse entryway flooring without the centuries of walking normally required. We figured this out replacing irreparably damaged planks in a barn my friend converted into a house. It looks authentic because it is! You're just doing it backwards.

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  • Irritable_Badger commented on hackmattr's instructable Copper Torch10 months ago
    Copper Torch

    New motor oil works fine for darkening hardware. Used motor oil used to be better, but after 1984ish everything that produced the high carbon content in the used oil was removed from the equation. The gas, the oil and high wear engine parts like piston rings and bearings share little with mid-80's and older equivalents other than their name and generally similar appearance.

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  • Make a Seamless Captive Nut in a 3D Printed Part

    Nice work on the step-by-step. Out of curiosity, as a traditional machinist with no real 3D printing experience, what is the purpose for the nut; embedded or otherwise? If the part design requires internal threading why not bore the two holes to depth then cut the threads in the part itself? Or insert the nut from the end and capture it with a circlip? Variations are endless. I'm not taking a swipe at your design or execution, I'm genuinely curious. Thanks!

    Does a turners cube count as captive? I'm glad I asked. I did not know some 3D printers leave pockets in the parts. The tiny spools of filament I've seen make a lot more sense now. Just by eyeballing the spools I thought there wasn't a lot of material to use.Thanks for the info!

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  • Irritable_Badger commented on kludge77's instructable Gummy Bear Axe1 year ago
    Gummy Bear Axe

    You'd be surprised/disappointed at how little protection is provided by general use respirators. There's a strong argument supporting the potentially lethal false sense of security afforded by an inappropriate respirator may be more dangerous than no respirator. Many people think that if they can't smell the (whatever) they are protected. The fact is the hazardous elements of (whatever) and the odorous elements of same are often entirely different things. Many urethanes are a great example. Positive pressure respirators are often the only things that actually work. Most respirators only block the urethane smell, not the urethane hazards. It's entirely possible to fall over dead when using urethanes all the while wearing serious respiratory protection. The moral of the story is that you...

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    You'd be surprised/disappointed at how little protection is provided by general use respirators. There's a strong argument supporting the potentially lethal false sense of security afforded by an inappropriate respirator may be more dangerous than no respirator. Many people think that if they can't smell the (whatever) they are protected. The fact is the hazardous elements of (whatever) and the odorous elements of same are often entirely different things. Many urethanes are a great example. Positive pressure respirators are often the only things that actually work. Most respirators only block the urethane smell, not the urethane hazards. It's entirely possible to fall over dead when using urethanes all the while wearing serious respiratory protection. The moral of the story is that you must know and understand what the safety equipment you have is capable of. A variety of filters for a variety of chemicals should be on hand be in any workspace. Expired filters should be tossed out, even if never used. Same with filter duty cycle. If the manufacturer says two cumulative hours is the max then the filters get tossed at the two hour mark. Safely being safe is a big deal. Don't put yourself at risk being safe in an unsafe way.

    Yes, most of the two part PMMA resins sold directly to the retail consumer aren't suitable for this project (most are actually repackaged resins used in the artificial flower arrangement market). But PMMA comes in many, many flavors and quite a few would be perfectly suited to life as an axe handle. It's worth investigating the various PMMA resins that are available. Not only can you find resins exhibiting most any properties you require, they're often less expensive than the standard stuff targeting the individual consumer.

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  • Irritable_Badger commented on kludge77's instructable Gummy Bear Axe1 year ago
    Gummy Bear Axe

    I feel quite confident in saying someone capable of making it has sense enough sense to know it's only useful for Human vs Gummi combat. The fixing a broken hammer handle with electrical tape crowd have automated security protocols that prohibit them from doing much beyond buying a bunch of stuff. Bulk polymerization of the resin, potentially liquefying the Gummies and/or starting a fire is the only risk here. Casting with anything in the acrylic monomer category creates the potential for bulk polymerization. Assuming the mixing instructions are followed, bulk polymerization is typically initiated by contamination in the mould. Metal reinforced duct tape (not fiber reinforced duct tape), metal shavings, oxidized tooling, etc... can all initiate the process. - Old Mechanical Engineer Who...

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    I feel quite confident in saying someone capable of making it has sense enough sense to know it's only useful for Human vs Gummi combat. The fixing a broken hammer handle with electrical tape crowd have automated security protocols that prohibit them from doing much beyond buying a bunch of stuff. Bulk polymerization of the resin, potentially liquefying the Gummies and/or starting a fire is the only risk here. Casting with anything in the acrylic monomer category creates the potential for bulk polymerization. Assuming the mixing instructions are followed, bulk polymerization is typically initiated by contamination in the mould. Metal reinforced duct tape (not fiber reinforced duct tape), metal shavings, oxidized tooling, etc... can all initiate the process. - Old Mechanical Engineer Who Understands Risk Assessment

    Dead is dead, the important part is how you get dead. "Man Killed by Axe Head Thrown by Gummi Bears" beats stroke or something normal.

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  • DIY Spot Welder From Microwave

    Although it's not terribly likely, discharging a capacitor via dead short can result in catastrophic failure of cap itself, and potentially your shorting bar. Exploding caps blow really hot and nasty stuff in every direction and the slag melts right through most synthetic fabrics (including carpet and clothes). It's really not much fun. More likely is your shorting bar ends up welded to the terminals on the cap and/or you burn the bejesus out of your hand with the now very hot screwdriver, wrench, etc..We have a piece of railroad track behind the shop and we push caps for discharge into the track by taping then to the fat end of a broken fishing rod (Anything metal will work the track was just here when we moved into the shop). Like I said, the likelihood of an catastrophic cap failure ...

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    Although it's not terribly likely, discharging a capacitor via dead short can result in catastrophic failure of cap itself, and potentially your shorting bar. Exploding caps blow really hot and nasty stuff in every direction and the slag melts right through most synthetic fabrics (including carpet and clothes). It's really not much fun. More likely is your shorting bar ends up welded to the terminals on the cap and/or you burn the bejesus out of your hand with the now very hot screwdriver, wrench, etc..We have a piece of railroad track behind the shop and we push caps for discharge into the track by taping then to the fat end of a broken fishing rod (Anything metal will work the track was just here when we moved into the shop). Like I said, the likelihood of an catastrophic cap failure and injury/property damage is low, but you can eliminate the risk all together by taking an extra two minutes to discharge the the capacitor in a safe way.

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  • Irritable_Badger commented on 32Tudor's instructable How to fix cloudy headlights1 year ago
    How to fix cloudy headlights

    Wine glasses do indeed want to be flat. As I noted above, glass can be shaped, but it loses strength the further away from flat it gets. Not flat glass can take shapes that exhibit phenomenally strong attributes for a given characteristic, but only at the expense of other attributes. Using your wine glass as an example: A wine glass can support enormous amounts of weight if the weight is evenly applied squarely across the rim of the glass when it's standing normally. The same glass can support far less weight it's turned upside down. At the same time the wineglass cannot withstand striking or side loading. Annealed glass is not suitable for any automotive application. Annealed glass is great for making wine glasses and some optics because it has less distortion than heat strengthened o...

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    Wine glasses do indeed want to be flat. As I noted above, glass can be shaped, but it loses strength the further away from flat it gets. Not flat glass can take shapes that exhibit phenomenally strong attributes for a given characteristic, but only at the expense of other attributes. Using your wine glass as an example: A wine glass can support enormous amounts of weight if the weight is evenly applied squarely across the rim of the glass when it's standing normally. The same glass can support far less weight it's turned upside down. At the same time the wineglass cannot withstand striking or side loading. Annealed glass is not suitable for any automotive application. Annealed glass is great for making wine glasses and some optics because it has less distortion than heat strengthened or tempered glass, but annealed glass is not very strong.

    All headlights used to be glass. They got foggy too. It was easier to polish them with abrasives, and the work lasted longer, but the only way to have truly fog free transparent stuff on the front of a car is to not drive it. Windshields used to get foggy too, but that was long ago before modern safety glass. Styling is the big reason for polycarbonate/acrylic headlight lenses. Even very strong glass like borosilicate and kodial treated silicate glass has a very limited shaping options that can stand up to the abuse a car headlight takes. Once you start compound curves or acutely angled edges glass of all sorts starts losing its strength. Glass wants to be flat and going too much against the wants of any given material is simply poor engineering. As far as long lasting solutions to clea...

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    All headlights used to be glass. They got foggy too. It was easier to polish them with abrasives, and the work lasted longer, but the only way to have truly fog free transparent stuff on the front of a car is to not drive it. Windshields used to get foggy too, but that was long ago before modern safety glass. Styling is the big reason for polycarbonate/acrylic headlight lenses. Even very strong glass like borosilicate and kodial treated silicate glass has a very limited shaping options that can stand up to the abuse a car headlight takes. Once you start compound curves or acutely angled edges glass of all sorts starts losing its strength. Glass wants to be flat and going too much against the wants of any given material is simply poor engineering. As far as long lasting solutions to clearing poly headlights there aren't any and there will never be (not driving the car aside). Poly breaks down under UV light and once the process starts it can't be stopped long term. It's just the nature of the material. The material in headlight lenses is pretty impressive as far as using polycarbonate outside. Lesser variants get foggy, brittle and turn yellow (look at the gas pump volume display next time you're getting gas).Choose the solution you find easiest and simply repeat when the lenses get foggy again. Don't go overboard fighting chemistry the sun.

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