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Sweet ible!!! Thanks!! Keep up the great work!
Produce a Rich Rust Patina on Iron and Steel, Safely and Quickly, Using Common Household Chemicals
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This method is for raw iron or steel. It looks like your sheet metal may have a light galvanized (zinc) coating on it specifically intended to prevent rust, many steel-based sheet metals do (that's assuming it's not stainless steel or aluminum sheet!) - clippermill16
thank you! I ended up first putting the boxes in muriatic acid, rinsing them off and then using the formula. Had to get rid of the zinc first. - TheCatCoach
I just tried it with sheet metal, it's not working. I followed the directions. You can see the result. Maybe it doesn't work with sheet metal??? Any suggestions?
I am from India and Corten is now becoming popular here. There is one doubt and personal experience that in Rains the Rust flows along with water which spoils the aesthetics of the surrounding areas turning everything into red/brown color. Is there a chemical treatment by which the flowing of the rust can be prevented.Hope you find the above in order.
My only concern is that it's mildly corrosive so I would hate to ruin any of the metal pipes in my home. Sounds like attempting to dilute it is the best plan.I should add that overnight the rust on my planter bloomed into a wonderful result, even better than when I posted my question.
What's the best way to dispose of any excess fluid? I made a little more than I can use and don't feel comfortable pouring it down the drain. (By the way, the method worked incredibly well!)
Fast Mayonnaise in a Jar from Olive Oil and Balsamic Vinegar
Do the opposite, rust the whole sign and then grind the raised letters back shiny?
Thanks - that is exactly the solution I needed - Now need to see if I can find suitable clamps in UK!
so I did the steps to some parts on a guitar I'm relicing. All turned out great but they are just hanging outside, I just finished them yesterday. Can I just leave them outside and they'll cure on their own?
I don't want to do anymore to the parts of I don't have to.
Haw much af stof? Hydrogen Peroxide - haw much? i like get some 1 l... thanks
Can you use Brakleen as a de-greaser prior to pickling?
bottle caps? I want to rust them. Are they coated with something that prevents rusting? How long would they take to rust with this method? Thank you
THANK YOU !!! ..problem solved !
Most beeswax has a higher ignition point (147F°). While some paraffin wax might burn at 157F° most of it is closer to 120F°. And you just never know unless you know the source of your wax and can email the manufacturer (it's wildly different between manufacturers). So you get a higher on average known ignition point for starters.Another thing is that paraffin has much lower friction surface due to it's additives. This means it tends to be slicker and so it doesn't bind as well or as closely, to as many surfaces. It also tends to be more crumbly or flakey then beeswax. Lastly you cannot know how all paraffin wax may react with an acid. There are so many additives from so many brands that this isn't something that you can really predict.The reasons we use mostly Paraffin wax today is that it is relatively cheap and easy to make in large quantities (it's a petroleum by-product). we can dye it easier (bee's wax begins as a light amber color and can get darker from there so you can really only go darker then the base color). And because it is smokeless. This makes it nice for candles. But beeswax is still the choice of craftsman who have a use for wax.If your concerned about it melting under the heat generated by the metal reacting to the acid. You could invest the top layer of wax with a good amount of baking soda. This should raise it's ignition point and naturalize fumes that come in contact with it and most acid that touches it directly.
We are wanting to do this for a bar top...what would you use as a cover or finish on this type of thing?
No it won't. You melt the wax on. So the seal is very close. It conforms around the smallest changes in height. If it were Paraffin wax then yeah. But we're talking about bee's wax, it's a different beast. Just make sure what you re-expose for etching or aging is clean. even a thin film of left behind wax can prevent the acid from doing it's job.
Bee's wax...Ever heard of a copper plate or steel plate engraving? What they would do is coat a plate of metal in bee's wax. Then they would scratch their design out and apply the acid. When it ate away enough of the metal they would neutralize the acid and peel the wax off. The acid would only eat what the wax was not covering. These finished plate where then patted with ink and hard pressed into paper. It was used to make impressed images like this (a copper plate engraving of people making copper plate engravings...engrave-ception): https://topicsofcapricorn.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/copperplate-press-21.jpg
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