LasVegas

Too many children with nothing more to do than insult and criticize without merit. Took all the fun from the site. I'm more than ready to respond to honest questions and inquiries. Other that that, I'd rather remain on the sidelines.

Oh... BTW: Your reverse power protection diode (not really needed) is backward. It should be reverse biased (cathode to positive).

Oh! An LED... No problem. Also... Remove the 10uf cap. It's also not necessary and redundant. I might be concerned that your regulator is malfunctioning. Is it a 7805?

340T-5 is the same thing...

Is it possible that you have the regulator connected wrong?

Try adding a small resistor (1K?) from the GND leg to ground... Not sure how much it would help...

Did you supply a load on the supply? Without a load, your voltage measurements would not be reliable. Try putting a 5 megohm resistor to ground and recheck.

Down... Let's see... A 7805 is supposed to supply an excess of 1 Amp... At 5v, that would drive as low as a 5 ohm resistor (5*1). But, that would fry the resistor if it's not a 5 watt resistor. Since you've probably got mostly 1/4 watt resistors, we can put at most (with a resistor) a load using 50 milliamps or a 100 ohm resistor (5/.05). That should put plenty of load on the power supply to verify it's load voltage. You could add more 100 ohm resistors in parallel to increase the load by 50 mA each.

heh heheh I love PhotoBooth! :)

Gee! I'm so impressed! Not! Who cares? I certainly don't.

I wish I could help you. While I can find purchase info on this relay, I can't find a data sheet. You can buzz out the relay to determine its connections and experiment to find it's voltage. When you apply an ohm meter across pins, a short (0 ohms) would indicate a Normally Closed connection. Any measure of resistance would indicate the coil. Check both directions for this. If one direction is more resistance than the other, there's a diode in parallel with the coil. You should connect so the polarity is that of the higher resistance. I would then apply 5v to the coil and test the other pins again to find which open and which close with power applied and removed. If there's no change with the 5v applied, try again with 12v.

The regular USB ports that you find on computers and devices that plug into the computer are called USB-B connectors (female in the computer, make on the device). The USB connector on Printers and Hubs (the port that connects to the computer) are called USB-A connectors. These are the square kind.

Sorry... I misunderstood your question. Those are various USB interface chips. Mostly just hubs that split one port into many. The type with EEPROM option allows the manufacturer to identify themselves and even fool the computer into thinking the chip is something else requiring the manufacturer's own driver. The function controller is a specialty chip that allows control of any device through USB. The serial bridge converts the USB port into one or more serial ports. The ATA bridge is the type used in external hard drive enclosures.

On all connectors there is a male and a female which are the connectors that fit each other. Normally the connector that has the exposed connector is called the male. The one that the male connector fits into is the female. So, for the USB connectors on your computer. They are all female. The connectors on the end of the cables are all male.

Ah! Sorry, but no. All of those are components to interface USB for various purposes. None of them are connectors.

They aren't. TI doesn't make the connectors. Just components.

I replied to this in the forums too. Go for it. I'm in the middle of an instructable to copy your DVDs into iTunes for playing on Video iPods & the new Apple TV.

Cool! Looks nice.

Take a look at cpotoso's solution to the following problem. The logic would follow exactly the same with a cube.