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This is an awesome instructable. Very clever. One thing to note that may be of help to some who have tried to get this to work unsuccessfully: the LD1117 3.3V voltage regulator has quite a high dropout voltage, almost 1V, so for a 3.7V Li-ion battery, this means a drop to about 3.2V on a full charge (which is around 4.2V). This means that your ESP will work when the battery is fully charged but will begin to fail when it drops below 3.8V or so. A much better voltage regulator is the MCP1700, which has a dropout voltage of 0.178V and provides 250 mA which is more than enough for most ESP applications. It's also much smaller :)
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What's pictured is actually a 1.3" display so as far as I know that's the biggest size that's common with the I2C LCDs...
The digit size is controlled by the SSD1306.h library so you can check out their documentation on Github: https://github.com/squix78/esp8266-oled-ssd1306Unfortunately, 24 is the biggest supported size on the default font with this library but the link above contains some info about custom fonts under the heading 'Text operations'. Hope this helps
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I found this resource to be very helpful: https://www.instructables.com/id/ESP8266-WiFi-Module-for-Dummies/Only thing I forgot to do was to disconnect the GPIO 0 pin when not uploading to the ESP (which wasn't really clear in the tutorial). Other than that, the guide is a great place to start. Hope this helps.
Yes, using the HTML headers from the GET request will give you the same UTC time. I did try going that route too, but it wasn't quite as simple as using the NTP library. I did also notice the ntp servers being a bit laggy but oh well..
You should look at AMS1117 for a good, cheap regulator that's also quite small. That, plus a USB port or charger and a decoupling 10 uF capacitor and you should be good to go. Takes some soldering but it ends up being cheaper and smaller than off-the-shelf stuff.
Very nice! I like the idea of using a rechargeable Li-ion battery and making the whole thing portable!
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Right! I've been playing with it and yes, I will be changing the sync interval to a lot longer so the connection doesn't get used so much
That said, you would have to change the code somewhat since currently it checks whether the connection is open every 10 seconds and only displays time if it is
So correction: it keeps the UDP port open for syncing but you can set sync interval to be way more than 10 seconds - the time client object keeps track of time between syncs
Yes, the 'improved' version would have a proper clock object to count seconds/minutes/hours using the internal microcontroller and then only sync the time with the server every few hours (or less?) But while the current code is not as efficient as it's constantly connected, it is simpler. But yes, in the future I want to add the 'offline' functionality somehow. I'll have to look into OLED burn-in effects as I haven't had much experience on that front
Yes. You could change it and only connect it as you like but currently it pulls the time through the UDP connection every 10 seconds.
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Great instructable! Got me through the initial exposure to ESPs! (except I missed turning off GPIO 0 from GND when using AT commands...that took me quite some time to figure out :D Thanks for posting all this!!
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Thanks! I have actually since revamped this and now use Adafruit's 3.3V Trinket (https://www.adafruit.com/products/1500), glued directly to the back of the Sleep Sheep with a cutout for the micro-USB port, where it gets powered by a cell phone charger. It's way less clutter and much neater than the previous solution, though the basic wiring and code remain pretty much the same. One of these days I'll get around to posting it up here. I have a few ATtinys at home, just waiting to get used, so I might just take a look at your setup :)
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