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I'd recommend to check iOS device backups - they may take up a significant space. Here is more about that - https://nektony.com/blog/7-reasons-why-you-are-losing-hard-drive-space
THANK YOU! I would never have tried this without your tutorial (with pictures)... and I would never have spend $130 to deal with the fact that the driver's side door would not unlock without the key in the lock. We have dealt with this problem for years! Now the dash button and the remote fob unlock the driver's door. It did take me the better part of 5 hours on a Sunday. I took lots of photos that I would love to share with anyone attempting this. These include the angle you need to position the actuator in to remove it from the door (took me about 10 minutes to figure that one out), and detailed pictures of the actuator and motors during disassembly.Tips:1) the "compression" washer over the pin is a real b*tch to get off. I used an engraving tool on a dremel to make a small slit in the washer so that I could pry it off. However, the washer actually cracked on the opposite side and was useless. This pin is pretty important for holding the side of the actuator against the bottom, so I had to run out to HomeDepot and pick up a #10 countersunk (flat head) bolt (#10-32 x 1") and nut to replace the pin/washer.2) I tried using shims, but several of the white plastic clips broke (the plastic is very brittle). Turns out it doesn't really matter, the pin and 4 torx screws hold it together very well. 3) I used a product called Electro-wash by chemtronics, which is a spray for electronics cleaning on the motor. I also used a brass bristle brush, and a round nylon brush on a dremel. Be very careful/gentle when cleaning the commutators (the three copper plates around the shaft of the motor) - at their base is the very fine wiring the leads around the armature of the motor. If you scrape a wire loose the whole motor is toast.4) I used a caliper to measure the shaft of the motor (above and below the commutator to determine the hole size to drill for the washers. I believe the two holes I had to drill were 0.1285" (#30 drill) and 0.1015" (#38 drill). It helps to drill the hole first and then cut out the plastic around it. 5) After you put everything back together, if you plug the actuator back into your car before re-attaching everything to test it, be sure to push down the little button in the corner of the actuator. This tricks the actuator into thinking the car door is closed and will allow the actuator to lock/unlock the mechanism. If you don't push the button, the actuator won't function, and you'll think you put it together wrong and will tear it apart, again. Maybe twice. Ask me how I know.6) give yourself plenty of time. I started this around 1pm and finished around 6pm, with a trip to HomeDepot in the middle. I would have been done a half-hour sooner if I didn't have to go out to get the bolt/nut to replace the pin/washer, and another hour sooner if I didn't think I assembled everything wrong when I was testing it and tore-it all apart again. Reassembly went very quickly.
it can be your key battery. can be replaced. test that first
The keyless entry button only unlocks thr gas tank cap. Also the lock switch on the master control switch doesnt unlock the doors either
What are the other variables ? If you dont mind giving me a brief explanation
Hi. I can unlock with the key in the door but not with the keyless entry buttons . Is this caused by the door lock actuator?
Well, maybe it is caused by the door lock actuators maybe it is not caused by the door lock actuator. You need to test other variables. Did someone writing instructable comments go for a swim with their key in their pocket?
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Deleting movies and doing a re-start did it for me
How to Fix an LCD backlight power Inverter. Using a Fujiplus FP-988D. For $0.
Awesome -- so glad this helped :)
I have followed this tutorial with great results. I am sharing this image that will make putting the actuator together a little easier and a few notes I think might be helpful to others.1) The bottom white plastic piece takes a lot of force to get it separated from the latch. Three white pins keep it in place, pry the metal plate to lift it so the pins get out of the holes (step 11 of tutorial). The white plastic clips are not very important, except for the one that is next to switch (top right of step 13 image)2)I found the plastic washer to be the problem since in both motors was melted, you can make it out of cardboard and put a dab of motor oil to place it in position and keep it lubed. Clean the motor with contact cleaner, The rotor contacts must also be cleaned with sand paper (1000 grit). There are 3 contacts there and all must have a clean gap between them. There must be no trace there of the melted plastic, this will make the brushes of the motors skip produce sparks and heat the contacts more than normal. Before you assemble the motor, make sure the brushes are not angled in towards the center too much (they should be parallel to each other once the rotor is in), Failing to do this will result in sparks and overheating. When put properly, it will spark during test but after a few turns sparks will be reduce if at all present.3)You can test the motors placed on the white bottom piece by connecting the harness. Keep the switch described on step 1 here pressed while testing it. This tells the computer the door is closed. The motor in "horizontal position" (damaged) is the one that moves the unlock pin of the door up. The motor that sits at an angle (shown at the top on step 13 image) works to both lock and unlock. When you press the unlock button on the remote only this motor should spin, if you press the unlock button then both of the motors should spin, only this time the one at an angle will do it in the opposite direction. When everything is assembled both motors should work to lock and unlock since the two switches on the top left of step 13 image will be read. This switches are pressed when turning the key to lock or unlock manually, one reads the key when turned to the left and the other one when turned to the right.4)If your motor is plain dead, I found another tutorial that shows a motor that works. The Mabuchi FC-280PC-22125 found on bay for around $9 a pair (make sure to get the 20mm round shaft). I don't know if I am allowed to paste a link here, msg me if needed. Both motors in this actuator are the same, but the worm gear is not. Replacing the motor will require the removal of the gears anyway. When in place, the polarity of one motor is reversed so they turn in the opposite way to each other when needed. Again, replacing the motors will need more actions like cutting the shafts and reinserting the worm gear.
Can anyone recommend me which bleach works best.Any link to ebay or amazon for the bleach product will be helpful. Thank you in advance.
Thanks for that!
Repair Mini Cooper Electric Door Lock Actuator / Locking Mechanism
Thanks for the walk through. I was able to restore the actuator in my 2003 Cooper S.
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Hi! I have exactly the same door lock on my land rover freelander as mini cooper and i want the motor part code or specification of motor such height width .. thanks - ery_fier
Buddy i asked IF you writed the motor model number were repaired...I already repaired once my car door actuator the same ways as you about a year ago and worked for 1 month. Now i want to buy a motor and i dont know specs of motor.. thanks - ery_fier
Hi,I was wondering if you knew why my new to me mini cooper clubman would have an alarm go off all night? I have read allot of things but noticed that the rear door is not locking when I lock it. - IndulGence
Yes, I do. And someone had made mention to me that the door lick on the rear swinging door might not be latching and it's making the alarm go off. It isn't. So I thought it might be one thing I could try. And thank you for the link. - IndulGence
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