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R3 is there to isolate the signal from the virtual ground, and prevent C3 (0.1uF) from bypassing the input signal to ground.Since nothing else is attached to the virtual ground between R1 and R2, you could leave C3 and R3 out. However, I'd then increase R1 and R2 to 100k each to avoid loading down the input signal.Actually, I'd move C3 to be across the Op Amp's V+ and Ground connections, to be a bypass capacitor right at the IC.
PID Temperature Controlled Oven
Learn by doing! Fantastic. I bought a couple of partial Guitar Hero drumkits to do the same with. Building it entirely from scratch is impressive!
Just about any photocell should work. Just test the resistance with your foot up and your foot down. Then select a resistor halfway between, on the log scale.To clarify: On the logarithmic scale, halfway between 1k and 100k is 10k. Halfway between 1k and 10k is 3.3k. Halfway between 1k and 1M is 33k. I'm using standard resistor values.http://polymer.bu.edu/ogaf/image/fig22.gif
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No need for the AVR from an Arduino, then. You can program the ESP8266 directly.
You can buy the AVR chip with the bootloader preprogrammed by itself and use the Arduino board to program it. Or the AVR plus a USB to TTL serial board.
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Never put electrolytic caps that close to heat producing components.And I think you meant 10uF. Actually, 0.1uF is usually sufficient.
It is a bad idea to put really large capacitors on the output side of a linear regulator. High charging currents will flow, and it may actually make the regulator unstable.Something more like a 0.1uF ceramic is needed, it has a lower impedance at higher frequencies than an electrolytic capacitor.
Do you mean 1uF? Lower case "m" is milli, this calls for microfarads.
Tytower is correct. Too much capacitance on the output of a linear regulator causes high initial charge current, and can cause instability.
Minimalistic Led Clock
Graphite is a great idea. Corrosion will still happen, but the corrosion is simply CO2 and won't coat the electrodes. And it won't poison the soil with metals.
Galvanized steel is only used by hobbyists, as far as I can tell.It is coated with zinc, which is to act like the zinc sacrificial anode on a boat. So when it gets wet, galvanic corrosion eats away the zinc before rusting the iron. But galvanized metal is not meant to be placed in constant contact with moisture or dirt, the zinc will get eaten away very quickly, then the iron rusts.And the zinc oxide is a bit toxic.
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