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The Queen's Round Metal Hat
I buy my epoxy in the gallon and a half containers (2-1 mix) and use it for cracks. The two to one mix seems much thinner than the fifty-fifty mixes I use, so it soaks in well.For light woods, I don't color the mix. No one has yet to notice the clear fill on in large cracks on a few butternut and other light wood ornaments I've madePainters' putty works good for sealing the end of the cracks. The portion with the putty can be cut off with a miter or other means.
For those dealing with cracked beams and such, the ideal is to address the problem before it starts. Sealing the wood doesn't work. Eventually, the wood will still lose moisture, which causes it to shrink, resulting in splits and cracks. I purchased a maple cutting board with this problem, then restored it using the approach noted below.For the butcher block, I flooded the top with mineral oil. The first bottle disappeared almost as soon as I put it on. The second went in slower, so I just added more to the spots that soaked in each time I walked past to another project. Finally, it began taking the oil in rather slowly. At that point, I slathered on a generous layer and just walked way.I ignored the top for a couple weeks. When I checked on it again, the oil had all soaked in. Too, it swelled the wood, just as water would, causing ALL the cracks and separations to close.The same approach can be taken with exterior wood surfaces. If you applied a generous first application, the obviousness of your efforts would disappear shortly. A second application would fare only a bit better. However, the third or additional coats would remain evident for years.The oil applications do not evaporate. They disappear because the oil wicks to the next dry area, deeper in the wood, until there is too little oil to wick further or the saturation has equalized throughout the wood.The main things, when using oils to replace lost moisture are:1) Use a non-hardening oil. That could be something like Chevron Shingle Oil (about ten dollars a gallon, in quantity), cheap motor oil (your mileage may vary) or mineral oil.2) To increase penetration, I'd thin it about ten or fifteen percent. You can use paint thinner, naphtha, mineral spirits or turpentine. I'd opt for the cheapest, unless I was working on a specialty project. 3) The more aggressive and patient you are in your applications, the better your results will be. You can keep adding oil without doing anything to the surface, whether a day after an application or years after. The applications will build on each other .HINT: Buy the cheapest mineral oil you can for food grade items. That would be around a buck or so a pint.NOTES: Cedar shingles that are saturated with oil, in addition to not shrinking and splitting or cracking, will remain more resilient. Normally, walking on them in the middle of the summer would cause them to break. However, if they were saturated with oil, the would remain more flexible and less prone to breakage.
Repairing Split Wood
Elf Ears, custom-made in silicone rubber
Soft Foam Puppet Part
Eccentrically Turned Wood Figure
I am building this style bench this winter in my shop. Still looking for 6x6 timbers for legs and a nice slab of some sort for the top. Did you find a good set of plans for this bench or did you just wing it. All the "Roubo" bench plans I have found are not old school like the one you built and I don't like em much. If you do have plans please let me know where you found them. Cheers dude!
Parallel Leg Vise with St. Andrew's Cross
Donkey Mask with Working Mouth (face puppet)
Ye Olde Holdfast
Wood Nut for a Wood Vice Screw
Photo Screen Printing Without Emulsion (laser etched)
I'm a little late to the party but after you apply the gorilla tape, I've had great luck in applying a little heat in the form of an iron on a low setting over a piece of cloth to soften the adhesive. Especially on wood grains.
That's almost beautiful. Great idea. And thx for the info
iPhone 5 Case, of Leather and Titanium
Reheeling Beatle Boots
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