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4Instructables81,433Views56CommentsSydney, AustraliaJoined June 10th, 2011
I'm a Kiwi, a maker and a Dad of four kids with a passion for good design, wood craft, technology, and laser cutters.

Achievements

10K+ Views Earned a bronze medal
Contest Winner Second Prize in the Arduino Contest 2016
Contest Winner First Prize in the Epilog Contest 8
Contest Winner Grand Prize in the Toy Challenge
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  • SparkItUp commented on SparkItUp's instructable Slow Dance - a Fusion of Art and Magic1 month ago
    Slow Dance - a Fusion of Art and Magic

    Hi, sorry for the delay, I haven't logged in for a while. No, only one power supply is used. The Arduino Nano can take up to about 12V when supplied to the Vin pin, you don't need to feed it with 5V. The circuit from CubicPrint takes care of feeding power to the Nano, you only need a single 12V input. I hope that helps.

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  • The Ultimate Guide to Laser-cut Box Generators

    Awesome, thanks - Added!

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  • SparkItUp commented on SparkItUp's instructable Slow Dance - A Fusion of Art and Magic3 months ago
    Slow Dance - A Fusion of Art and Magic

    Glad you enjoyed it, well done on yours, it looks really effective with the white background!

    Sorry for the delay replying and thanks for your comments. JohnC430 is correct. The duty on both coil and LEDs is less than 20%, and the instantaneous current draw is smoothed by the large capacitor on the TimeFrame board, so typical current draw is well under an amp, but I recommend 1.5A for safe measure.

    Yeah, you got me there... I'm only using 1000uF but have a 2A supply on my board, but the Time Frame calls for 4700uF iirc. That should be ample for smoothing and a smaller supply should be sufficient

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  • SparkItUp's entry Slow Dance - A Fusion of Art and Magic is a winner in the Epilog Contest 8 contest 3 months ago
  • SparkItUp's entry Slow Dance - A Fusion of Art and Magic is a finalist in the Epilog Contest 8 contest 3 months ago
  • The Ultimate Guide to Laser-cut Box Generators

    Just added Joinery - looks extremely useful!

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  • Joinery: Joints for Laser Cut Assemblies

    Had aquick look but haven't really used it yet (long day, time for bed...), but I had to write and say this looks simply awesome, I think I'm going to have some fun with it!I'm going to add a link in my Instructable, which I hope will become a master reference of (free) laser cutter design tools:https://www.instructables.com/id/The-Ultimate-Guide...If there are other free tools that you are aware of that might be useful to share, I'd love to hear about them.

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  • SparkItUp commented on yash yash's instructable Converting a Brushed Dc Motor Into Bldc3 months ago
    Converting a Brushed Dc Motor Into Bldc

    Me too! Thanks, I'd never considered doing this before.

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  • SparkItUp commented on JScottMO's instructable RFID Stethoscope for Medical Sim3 months ago
    RFID Stethoscope for Medical Sim

    Fascinating concept, I hope you guys take this further. If you're after realism, you probably want to make the stethoscope as realistic and lightweight as possible. While it's hard to tell without actually hefting it, it looks a little heavy/clunky (yeah, prototype, I know). Some suggestions: - The stethoscope tubing transmits sound remarkably well (it has to, right?) so you could just use a single ear bud speaker connected (and probably sealed so it's airtight) to the bottom of the tubing. Keep the standard stetho earpieces. - The 3D printed casing for the whole kit is an interesting design and looks well thought out, however I'd be concerned that it would detract somewhat from the experience - because an authentic experience is what you're after primarily. Could you use a standard...see more »Fascinating concept, I hope you guys take this further. If you're after realism, you probably want to make the stethoscope as realistic and lightweight as possible. While it's hard to tell without actually hefting it, it looks a little heavy/clunky (yeah, prototype, I know). Some suggestions: - The stethoscope tubing transmits sound remarkably well (it has to, right?) so you could just use a single ear bud speaker connected (and probably sealed so it's airtight) to the bottom of the tubing. Keep the standard stetho earpieces. - The 3D printed casing for the whole kit is an interesting design and looks well thought out, however I'd be concerned that it would detract somewhat from the experience - because an authentic experience is what you're after primarily. Could you use a standard or slightly modified stethoscope end piece (diaphragm/cup I don't know what it's called, sorry) with a small reader on each side, then wire these readers (with the headphone wire) up the stethoscope and then down into a case that the user can keep in their pocket? Then you'll have more or less an actual stethoscope and the bulk of the hardware is out of the way in the pocket (I'd also add a clip for the women trainees who often don't have pockets) - If you did have two readers, you could then differentiate between the use of one side or the other, and encourage situation-appropriate use.Again, I think this is a great idea and I think education in areas like this is in for a lot of change in coming years - you guys are on the leading edge, keep it up.

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  • SparkItUp commented on SparkItUp's instructable Slow Dance - A Fusion of Art and Magic3 months ago
    Slow Dance - A Fusion of Art and Magic

    Hey everyone, I've just uploaded a new video above showing the frame's full capabilities. Apologies for the flickering, it was unavoidable...

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  • The Ultimate Guide to Laser-cut Box Generators

    That is absolutely BRILLIANT! Thanks for sharing, that definitely gets a place in my instructable :)

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  • TimeFrame - A time portal to put on your desk.

    I started off using an H-bridge for push/pull oscillation like you but found that it was far more complicated and in the end the effect wasn't too different than just using a push via PWM to the MOSFET, and letting it spring back.There are two ways of achieving it with an H-bridge:- The easy (and I think wrong) way: use a voltage divider to feed one side of the H-bridge with Vcc/2, then PWM the other input alternately between Vcc and Gnd. When I tried this my H-bridge overheated but I'm not entirely sure why, probably it had to dissipate too much power during the idle part of the cycle.- the second method I think would work but I think the Arduino timer code might get complicated and you'll have to get your hands dirty and learn all about Arduino timers: You need to set up two output pi...see more »I started off using an H-bridge for push/pull oscillation like you but found that it was far more complicated and in the end the effect wasn't too different than just using a push via PWM to the MOSFET, and letting it spring back.There are two ways of achieving it with an H-bridge:- The easy (and I think wrong) way: use a voltage divider to feed one side of the H-bridge with Vcc/2, then PWM the other input alternately between Vcc and Gnd. When I tried this my H-bridge overheated but I'm not entirely sure why, probably it had to dissipate too much power during the idle part of the cycle.- the second method I think would work but I think the Arduino timer code might get complicated and you'll have to get your hands dirty and learn all about Arduino timers: You need to set up two output pins to PWM alternately between Vcc and Gnd but still in phase, so output 1 is high while output 2 is low and vice versa. Two considerations, first you probably want to drive the magnet under its rated voltage, as you won't need all that power and your magnet will likely overheat. Second, you might still be able to control the duty if you use two timers in sync instead of one, but then I think you'll lose your delay( ) function - Nanos have 3 timers: one is used for delay, millis, etc and you need one for your LEDs leaving you only one timer free. If you adjust the frequency of the first timer then those functions will behave unexpectedly.I may be wrong about some (or all) of this, but I did spend a lot of time reading up on it and came to the conclusion that it was all too hard when CubicPrint's code was just easy, the MOSFETs dissipate virtually no heat and (most importantly) it still looks great.Good luck with whatever you decide!

    Wow, sold out of all your kits! I hope you don't mind that I've been sending people your way from my Instructable :) It's proof of how popular this concept is, and thanks again for making it available!

    There is no reason it wouldn't work. Just be sure to eliminate as much ambient light as possible.

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  • SparkItUp commented on SparkItUp's instructable Slow Dance - A Fusion of Art and Magic3 months ago
    Slow Dance - A Fusion of Art and Magic

    You are welcome!I actually bought a few of those myself for a prototype and found two things: the 2.5kg one wasn't quite strong enough, and it tended to overheat quite quickly. The 5kg version was better but still got fairly warm after some time. If you limit the magnet duty in the code to, say 10% and don't keep it running for too long it should be ok.One more thing about these electromagnet coils, they are designed to hold a steel plate, so the N and S poles are both on the same side. One pole is in the middle, the other is on the outside ring. I'm not sure if this is helps the effect or hinders it.Good luck!

    i really don't know sorry. What I do know is that the magnetic field is greatly enhanced by an iron or steel core so I'm guessing you probably shouldn't remove the sliding rod in the middle but instead remove the spring and glue the steel shaft into the solenoid as far as it will go.I know you're trying to make assembly easier for yourself by not winding your own coil, but I think you're just going to have to buy a few different products and see which one works best. I don't think anything will work as well or look as good as a well made hand would coil, but it is a lot of work!Let me know how you go.

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  • SparkItUp's entry Slow Dance - A Fusion of Art and Magic is a winner in the Arduino Contest 2016 contest 3 months ago
  • SparkItUp commented on SparkItUp's instructable Slow Dance - A Fusion of Art and Magic3 months ago
    Slow Dance - A Fusion of Art and Magic

    Hi, thanks for your comment!As far as I know any "logic level" MOSFET should do. I'm not even convinced that the IRF range is the right one to be using, since the IRL range is logic level (switching between 2-4V iirc), and typically what you want to use for Arduino projects.I'm not an electrical engineer and only know what I've Googled, but SparkFun sell these two models specifically for Arduino switching:Datasheet (FQP30N06L)Datasheet (RFP30N06LE)(Source: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10213 )Good luck!

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  • SparkItUp's instructable The Ultimate Guide to Laser-cut Box Generators's weekly stats: 3 months ago
    • The Ultimate Guide to Laser-cut Box Generators
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  • SparkItUp's instructable Slow Dance - A Fusion of Art and Magic's weekly stats: 3 months ago
    • Slow Dance - A Fusion of Art and Magic
      33,162 views
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      33 comments
  • SparkItUp's entry Slow Dance - A Fusion of Art and Magic is a finalist in the Arduino Contest 2016 contest 3 months ago
  • SparkItUp commented on SparkItUp's instructable Slow Dance - A Fusion of Art and Magic3 months ago
    Slow Dance - A Fusion of Art and Magic

    Thanks very much for your compliment! Unfortunately I didn't invent it, but I agree, it's pretty stunning. I knew as soon as I saw it that I had to make one.

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  • SparkItUp commented on SparkItUp's instructable Slow Dance - A Fusion of Art and Magic3 months ago
    Slow Dance - A Fusion of Art and Magic

    You know, very early on I thought about making a round frame, thanks for reminding me. If I had any wood turning skills I probably would have (it's on my list of things to learn), but I've just now thought that you can probably make quite a nice one out of one of those cheap wood/bamboo bowls that you can buy from most department stores. Either chop the bottom off the bowl for a see-through frame, or leave it on to cut out more ambient light.About offsetting the strips, I don't know that it would make things brighter. It might be slightly more even light, but I'm not convinced that you'd notice any difference.Thanks for your comments, especially the "fly poop outta the pepper", had a good laugh at that :)

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  • SparkItUp commented on SparkItUp's instructable Slow Dance - A Fusion of Art and Magic3 months ago
    Slow Dance - A Fusion of Art and Magic

    That sounds like an interesting idea. One thought, as one of the other commenters pointed out this is vibrating at an audible frequency, and by vibrating your canvas you'll essentially be creating a great big speaker. Also you'll want a much bigger electromagnet to move something that big, or several smaller ones carefully spread across the canvas to set up a standing wave in the fabric. You can't really oscillate it much slower than 80Hz (to make it inaudible), or the effect won't be as smooth.Interesting concept, though, if you do get it working I'd love to see an Instructable!

    I bought one of these and the slightly larger 5kg version for prototypes. The 5kg definitely worked better and the 2.5kg one seemed to get quite hot after a while. They don't have great heat dissipation, but they are still reasonably effective.. I considered hiding these inside the frame, but decided that it would be too hard to adjust, and also that exposing the copper coil would actually add to the effect - that's one of the things I liked about the original Slow Dance. Thanks for the videos, great to see you got yours going!

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  • SparkItUp commented on SparkItUp's instructable Slow Dance - A Fusion of Art and Magic3 months ago
    Slow Dance - A Fusion of Art and Magic

    Find a hackerspace nearby and/or a local woodworking club, there will be plenty of people willing to help you learn the skills and lend you the tools. You can simplify things greatly if you get one of the TimeFrame kits. Good luck, and feel free to post back here or PM me if you have any questions!

    Thanks to whoever sent this through to Hackaday, I wasn't expecting to see it there!

    It's not completely silent but it is pretty quiet. There's virtually no noise at all from the coil as it's wound tight and glued at the ends. There is only a very slight hum from the spring steel oscillating, but it's certainly not enough to distract from the effect. As I think I've said in the Instructable, the screws attaching the springs to the bracket seem to have loosened ever so slightly over time which does make it more noisy, but this can and will be fixed with a bit of thread locker. Thanks for your comments!

    Great question! First, I ordered the warm white strip before I knew quite how important it was going to be, but I had a hunch that I'd need bright ones, so got the brightest SMD type I could find in my price range. Second, from the start I was definitely after a warm look, with dark wood tones and the pink of the copper coil, so warm seemed like the best choice, and to me it's a lot less harsh on your eyes in darker environments. Finally, after making a prototype it started becoming apparent how much light I would need, hence the wide channel and multiple stands of lights. You're right that cool white would help the effect, but I think it would subtract from the overall visual impact. Hope that explains it.

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  • SparkItUp commented on SparkItUp's instructable Slow Dance - A Fusion of Art and Magic4 months ago
    Slow Dance - A Fusion of Art and Magic

    Thanks for the encouragement!

    Thanks! If you do, please post back here and let me know, I'd love to see pictures.

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  • TimeFrame - A time portal to put on your desk.

    I know this is a late reply, but for anyone else with the same question, check out Step 3 of my just-published Instructable. I've created a spreadsheet for calculating your total coil length, resistance and number of layers based on wire thickness and core dimensions: https://www.instructables.com/id/Slow-Dance-a-Fusio...

    Just got my Instructable published, please take a look and vote for me!https://www.instructables.com/id/Slow-Dance-a-Fusio...Source code is on Github: https://github.com/paulh-rnd/timeframe/blob/master...Enjoy!

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  • TimeFrame - A time portal to put on your desk.

    Hmm video doesn't seem to have embedded too well. I got lucky with the flickering issues I think, it turned out quite well - See it here: https://goo.gl/photos/pmpTffmZ7KAoQjMs6

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  • TimeFrame - A time portal to put on your desk.

    Made this for my wife for Christmas. I saw the original Kickstarter and decided I absolutely had to make one so started testing various parts and materials and I set up a prototype sketch on an Arduino Uno, bought some beautiful old reclaimed timber for a frame and ordered parts from China. Then I got a link to this page and saw your code - it was much cleaner than mine, so THANKS! I've used your code but my frame and coil looks more like the original Slow Dance with dual oscillating arms. I adjusted the code somewhat: changed it so it's "off" when you first power it on, added a dim and slowly pulsating LED for the power/mode button, removed "mode 3", and added a third pot to control coil duty. It was a hit with the wife and family (if you don't count the many hou...see more »Made this for my wife for Christmas. I saw the original Kickstarter and decided I absolutely had to make one so started testing various parts and materials and I set up a prototype sketch on an Arduino Uno, bought some beautiful old reclaimed timber for a frame and ordered parts from China. Then I got a link to this page and saw your code - it was much cleaner than mine, so THANKS! I've used your code but my frame and coil looks more like the original Slow Dance with dual oscillating arms. I adjusted the code somewhat: changed it so it's "off" when you first power it on, added a dim and slowly pulsating LED for the power/mode button, removed "mode 3", and added a third pot to control coil duty. It was a hit with the wife and family (if you don't count the many hours I spent away from her making the thing!). Thanks again for sharing, you saved me many more hours tuning the timer code :)

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