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THANKS MR WANG....already have new uno....and have recently purchases the dr robot bluno mega...would however like to salvage what I can from the fried uno....if the chip is still good its highly possible to easily rebuild.....
DIY Arduino Mega 2560 or 1280
When there's heat that means there's a lot of energy being wasted.That probably means there's a short in the board: either inside a component or on the traces.I think what's happening with your Arduino is some component(s) between the USB and ATMega are broken. When you run it off battery, you bypass those components and nothing heats up.Be careful with the heat! You might want a new Arduino to prevent breaking your computer's USB port or anything else.
any idea why the mega got hot to start with?.....I have the same problem with my uno.....will not download...gets hot when plugged into the usb....and after a while the light go really dim.... ..however the last program I loaded still runs when plugged into battery power...so I assume the chip is still functioning fine....so I figure ill diy a uno someday...
Thank you so much! It works fine to me !
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I didn't have a schematic: it was very arbitrary.If you look at the datasheet for the 2560, you can decide what features you want to have.Here is the original schematic of the Arduino Mega: https://www.arduino.cc/en/uploads/Main/arduino-mega2560_R3-sch.pdf
Can you share the circuit schematic please ?
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Hi,Towards the end of the instructable I talk about how I solder ISP programming pins. If you have an ISP programmer you can burn the bootloader that way.
I was curious if you were to order the chip from the manufacturer instead of desoldering it from an Arduino Mega...How would you add a Bootloader for serial communication, if that is even possible?
You can flash the chip again you just have to make a simple circuit. Visit this link to find out more. https://sites.google.com/site/wayneholder/attiny-fuse-reset
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Was just making sure, because I saw 22pf caps on the mega and some other arduino pcb filesThanks for the link !
For this I didn't bother with the capacitors.http://embeddedelectronicsforatmegaseries.blogspot...according to this blog, there are calculations you can do for the crystal to see what capacitor to use.
So XTAL 1 and XTAL 2 go straight to the pins on the crystal ? no other resistors / capacitors required ?Great instructable !
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Sir can you share the PCB design please - JayaprakashL
Yes Sir it will , Thanks for the great help - JayaprakashL
If you can get and install KiCad , I will give you the whole package... will that help you? - GordonM19
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What's with the 1.7k resistor costing so much? Jameco didn't have them and at Mouser and Digi-Key they cost an arm and a leg. Guess I'll use 3.4k in parallel to get the 1.7k.
Can I use AVRISP mkii as programmer in arduino IDE to burn bootloader...
Hi guys correct way to upload that using arduino: HEX: avrdude -P com3 -b 19200 -c avrisp -p attiny85 -v -e -U flash:w:usbtiny.hexFUSE: avrdude -P com3 -b 19200 -c avrisp -p attiny85 -v -e -U lfuse:w:0xff:m -U hfuse:w:0xdf:m
Hi guys correct way to upload that using arduino as ISP: HEX: avrdude -P com3 -b 19200 -c avrisp -p attiny85 -v -e -U flash:w:usbtiny.hexFUSE: avrdude -P com3 -b 19200 -c avrisp -p attiny85 -v -e -U lfuse:w:0xe1:m -U hfuse:w:0x5d:m -U efuse:w:0xff:mAll work fine goodluck
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Nice instructable. I made mine on a pice of perfboard. Only struggle I had was the programming, I used an Arduino UNO as ISP but for some resaon Avrdude was not found, so I installed WinAvr which worked out for me. Only thing i needed to add was the correct Port with -P and the Baudrate with -b.Which in the case of the Arduino as Isp, is 19200. Now it works fine. Only think to add is maybe a case and something to prevent the wire to rip out since they are very thin.
Nice instructable. I made mine on a pice of perfboard. Only struggle i had was the programming, i used an Arduino UNO as ISP but for some resaon Avrdude was not found so I installed WinAvr which worked out for me. Anly thing i needed to add was the correct Port with -P and the Baudrate with -b. Which in the case of the Arduino as Isp, is 19200. Now it works fine. Only think to add is maybe a case and something to prevent the wire to rip out since they are very thin.
Yeah but the hotglue would ruin the look xD Maybe i could make a case out of some scrap plastic. e.g old CD case maybe
Didn't work. I keep getting this error from Windows. And yes, the drivers are installed, and yes, I followed all your instructions exactly. "A request for the USB device descriptor failed"
Can you tell me, which one pins and wires do you connect in step 7? I can't see anything on photos, and don't have to burn the atmega ;D
no....couldn't get it to work with the above commands....and yea... i am using a DAPA cable to flash the chip....... Are we supposed to use any external clock?? if so...of what frequency....... and what is the component in this pic from the original blog of "TEQUALS0" of the same circuit!(lower left corner)... BTW.... thanks for the guide!! :)
got the problem!! I forgot to place the 0.1uf capacitor while trying different solutions!!.... solved now!! Thank you!! :) the -B command is recommended in certain cases....based on this site!! http://www.simpleavr.com/avr/vusbtiny Thank you once again for trying to help me out!! :)
Hello,Thanks for responding! :) ... have changed the diodes with new ones.... no change.... I used -B3 to change the bitclock rate..... i am quite new to this..... Had troubles while flashing the attiny45.... so found it as a solution in one of the websites.... I donot have a new chip to flash and i have flashed this one's fuses.... so probably i can't flash it again.... will try with a new one soon..... Is changing the clock rate a reason for this!?
computer runs on WinXP SP3
Could someone please help out...... Made it on a breadboard..... Flashed the attiny45 with the usbtinyisp hex file(btw had to add -B3 at the end to make it through) But after that...... It is beign recognised as unknown device..... Though the drivers for UsbTiny is installed under the libusb-win32 devices.....
When you came to the part with flux, at first it looked like you had totally melted the chip XD
If someone's looking for it: You can also program the ATtiny from a Raspberry Pi. That solved the chicken and egg dilemma for me. http://www.instructables.com/id/Programming-the-ATtiny85-from-Raspberry-Pi/?ALLSTEPS
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