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Stop using Ferric Chloride etchant! (A better etching solution.)
I can't really get 30% hydrochloric acid, but can you use 10%, and then just make a 1:1 mixture, or something like that? My hydrogen peroxide is 3 %.
I know we all want the quick fix, but wd-40 isn't going to work. Or, it will to start with.The 'wd' in wd-40 means 'water desiccant/displacement' - and it will lube to start, but by drying out the area, and being a light oil, it sucks in dirt, then keeps it there.Wd-40 SILICONE is acceptable.
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Thank you very much Elliot for this Instructable. I was able to get my solution (2 parts hydrogen peroxide 3% and 1 part Hydrochloric Acic 38%) and mixed in a very short time and began etching. My PCB turned out a dream in only a few minutes.I used a pyrex glass 1 litre jug as the mixing bowl with that sitting in a bowl of water to help cool the solution if things got too hot. No fuming at all, stripped the 4" x 3" pcb leaving just the circuit behind in just a few minutes.A couple of questions though as I am not that strong on my chemistry.1st. The peroxide I used is from the supermarket medicine section and the solution turned brown when I added the acid. I am guessing there might be some kind of dye in the peroxide solution?2nd question, in the prepratation for this I found some 12% hydrogen peroxide at the 'beauty section' and as it was a lot cheaper per volume than the 3% from the medical section I brought a bottle of that. It is a 'creme developer' and contains other chemicals. specifically CETEARYL ALCOHOL, SODIUM LAUREL SULPHATE, PHOSPHORIC ACID, ETHANOL, METHYLPARABENI am worried about mixing this (diluted with water down to 3% peroxide) with acid. Has anyone else tried this sort of solution before? I could not find any straight hydrogen peroxide at 12% that was liquid like the 3% stuff from the medical section.Price difference is 4 bucks for 200ml at 3% vs 10 bucks for 1 litre 12%
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Best to do your mixing in a glass/pyrex container, and then transfer it to the plastic storage after it has cooled.The last time I made enchant, I did it outdoors in the middle of an adjacent field, in glass, and with a face mask because you don't want to be breathing that hydrogen, and the chance of an errant spark/flame is less likely.When you're done making it, you can slowly funnel it into a plastic jug inside of a bucket (in case it tips over while you pour it). This stuff will make any metal in the room rust quickly if left open, or is stored in an improper container. I have my last batch stored in a yard/pool container with a flip top lid, along with the leftover acid I used to make it.One day I tossed a few scraps of stainless steel in the box for some reason or another. When I came back several months later, most of the stainless steel is rusted on the surface. There isn't much plating left.Before I started storing the acids outside in their own container, the vented caps would allow the acid into the air, and my tools were rusting like crazy from the open air.
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For aluminum, the HCl that we're using here will work just fine just by itself. Look up "aluminum foil hydrochloric acid" on the web -- it's a well-known way of producing hydrogen gas, but the aluminum gets eaten up in the process.The downside of the reaction is that it creates heat, and speeds up (creating more heat) as it gets hotter. If you're reacting a lot of material, you're going to need to cool it or else you'll end up with runaway boiling hydrochloric acid in large quantites, which is about as fun as it sounds.I would call etching aluminum with HCl a strictly-outdoors activity, with lots of cool water in buckets on hand if things go wrong. Because of the hydrogen gas it produces, you want to make sure there are no open flames anywhere nearby. I'd experiment with diluted acid solutions first.OTOH, it's a great way to fill party balloons with hydrogen. :)
If you buy those same bearing on www.daddiesboardshop.com they are 5 bucks cheaper
Great idea. I'll have to try that. Glad you relabeled your bottle. My first thought when I saw the photo was this... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xIMPbPDwj_g
Soak the bearing in petrol for 5 to 10 min, that cleans the bearing. Then soak it in transmission fluid for 30+ min. Wipe excess fluid and install the bearing back. Repeat one in 3 months. That's what I do.
Follow the intsructions in the instructable, not in the muriatic acid... So no, do not dilute
Let it dry up or neutralize with baking soda and take it to your local hazardous material center. You never want to pour down the sink or throw in the yard, the dissolved copper is highly toxic to fish and other animals.
Works on brass, but the etchant gets gunky, so I use a separate container for brass
I have used it to etch aluminum... It causes a thermal reaction and gets pretty warm and bubbly, and etched quickly. It was already used etchant. I'd do it outside of your going to try it, fumes a lot too.
You're right, WD-40 does have a tendency to gunk up over time. But that can be negated by just spritzing it once a week to wash off buildup. Way more time efficient than ripping your bearings apart and servicing them like this article says. WD-40 is also way cheaper, and jeez, every minute ur servicing ur gear is another minute you're not riding. - AlanL44
wd40 ruins ur bearings I was told it gets more dirt and stuff I. The bearin - smellymeadowh
Yes but doing it right will make em last longer than a week they will be good for a month or two my as well be done right or not done at all - smellymeadowh
There are a million ways to skin a cat. (Gross!)I do 10 mil traces with toner transfer all the time now. I've run a couple boards at 6 mil, which is the design limit for a bunch of the cheaper overseas PCB factories. The etching is not the limiting factor -- it's getting the etch resist uniformly and reliably on such small features.I agitate the boards constantly in the tank -- meaning swishing the etchant around, not rubbing on them. I've never had problems with damaged traces. OTOH, if the electrical idea ends up a good replacement for swirling, I'm all for it. Tipping a tupperware back and forth is boring.So yeah. Try it out -- you might hit on an improvement. Let us know.
Could I Use high power electrolysis instead of an abrasive when etching? Theory being that running a current through the HCL will let it pick up the copper ions very easily- especially at high currents. This would allow makers to have super fine traces without the worry of brushing them off, or having them wilt off over time.
Does it work with pure lemon/lime juice? Might ba a dumb question but just want to know :p
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