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Are you using a very new version of the Arduino IDE? (I'm using 1.6.7) Or do you have any 3rd-party MIDI libraries installed?As a workaround, you could try changing "MIDI_setup" to something else (e.g. "MIDI_setupX") everywhere in drumtrigger.inoThanksIan
The battery datasheet does indeed say "on no account charge the battery in a sealed container", although in this design you can't connect anything (for charging or otherwise) when the lid is shut. On mine the wooden side panel is a loose enough fit that the battery compartment is nowhere near gas-tight, when the lid is open. You could drill a few small holes in it to make sure, I suppose.
Yes, you can add more pads. The Pro Micro I used has extra analog input pins A6, A7, A8, A9 and A10 - see https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/pro-micro--fi...To add extra channels in the drumtrigger.ino sketch:- change NCHANNELS from 4 to the number of channels- add items to the end of the inPins array (after A0, A1, A2, A3) with the pin numbers for the new pads- add items to the end of midiNotes with the note values for the new pads- add items to the end of the thresholdLevel and maxLevel arrays (these can be the same as the other values, or you can adjust them if required).Have fun!Ian
Hi - the nano is based on the 328 so you have to share the serial port with the host connection (for firmware upload). You'll need to change '#define MIDI_SERIAL Serial1' to '#define MIDI_SERIAL Serial' in the sketch.Otherwise it should work the same as the Pro Micro version does.
Hi - thanks for posting pictures and code! Hope you have fun with it.CheersIan
Yes - it'll be fine on a PC with a USB-MIDI converter, the E-mu one looks fine. Best low-price music software I've used is Reaper (www.reaper.fm) which runs on pretty much anything and is very full-featured. I've never used music software on an Android phone - you might need to ask around in Internet forums - but anything than can be controlled from a MIDI keyboard will work with this.Have fun!Ian
If you used a 32U8 based device (e.g. Leonardo or Micro) there's an Arduino MIDI USB library (see tutorial at https://www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/MIDIUSB) which will do the right thing. The example code has noteOn() and noteOff() functions which are almost drop-in replacements for MIDI_noteOn() and MIDI_noteOff() in the drumtrigger sketch. (You'll need to make up a 'note off' velocity when calling noteOff(); my code fixes this to be 1).Sadly this won't work with a 328-based device like the Uno, because the USB connection doesn't go direct to the chip. You could look at this Instructable - http://www.instructables.com/id/Turn-your-Arduino-... - but I don't know whether the same tricks would work on your board (it relies on being able to reprogram the Uno's 8U2 USB-to-serial chip).ThanksIan
Thanks - if you build one, post a picture!CheersIan
Yes - the 32U4 based boards like the Micro and Leonardo have a "Serial", which is the USB connection to the host, and a "Serial1" which is the separate Rx/Tx pins on the board.For a Uno you can change Serial1 to Serial everywhere, and use the Uno's Tx pin for MIDI out, but note that this serial port is also used for programming the Uno. So you will need to disconnect anything connected to MIDI out when uploading the sketch, to stop it receiving rubbish.ThanksIan
It's just under the first picture, on the front page (for me at least). The video itself is at https://vimeo.com/189460103 (called "Pringles can drum kit") if that's easier.ThanksIan
Ta-daa! Quick video now posted. Disclaimer - I am *not* a drummer, as you can tell.
Pringle Can MIDI DrumsView Instructable »
Thanks for posting the pictures - hope it brings a smile of nostalgia.I never put a Pi actually inside my case because the connectors on the model B I had were quite awkwardly arranged. A Pi Zero + separate USB hub would work really well I imagine.Thanks - Ian
Well done sir! Thanks for posting the pic - enjoy your LARPing.Ian
Glad to be of service, and thanks for the pictures!Charging works through the 12V socket - it's just a direct connection to the battery so wiring up a suitable charger to an accessory plug does the trick. See step 7 for a pic of what I'm using. For keeping it topped up you can use a 12V solar panel - these are often sold with a plug attached.Thanks - Ian
That's brilliant - thanks for posting your photos, I'm genuinely flattered. Hope you find it useful,Ian
Great stuff! I particularly like the illuminated power switch, it goes well with everything else. Thanks for sharing Ian
Sure, lithium batteries are way lighter than lead-acid. Why I didn't use one: single Li-Ion cells like 18650's are 3.7V, so I'd need 3 in series for nearly-12V, and a 3x2 or 3x3 array for a comparable overall capacity. To charge these safely & reliably you need monitoring & balancing of the individual cells; if you get it wrong your expensive batteries die, or catch fire. To be honest it's more complicated than I'm prepared to write up as an Instructable. For reference, the data sheet for the battery I ended up using is here: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/612553.pdfAt 50% DOD they suggest 400 or so cycles, or 1200 cycles at 30%. So perfectly comparable to other battery types.CheersIan
It depends on what you connect to it. A '7 Amp hour' capacity should supply 1 Amp for 7 hours (or 7 Amps for 1 hour, etc.) In practice you will get less in total the higher the current.For USB charging a smartphone at (typically) 1A at 5V the battery drain is roughly 0.5A so you should get 12-15 hours charging time.
The one I bought was https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00Y4HRFTY/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1Searching just for "12V DC voltmeter" turns up lots of other options, though.
You charge it through the 12V socket - see the last step 'In use' for details.Ian
Well spotted, that's a detail I didn't write up - I put contact adhesive over the screw head before final assembly to make a seal. The angle bracket won't need to be dismantled, so you can use plenty of sealant.
So the battery shouldn't be getting hot in normal use - only if you're discharging it really rapidly will it be losing energy via its internal resistance. I've been testing it with an inverter, drawing 5A to 10A, and it's not got noticeably warm. If you've got an application which needs much higher currents you'd probably be better with a bigger battery - but thanks for the comments.CheersIan
Thanks for looking. I've actually got just what you describe for a light - a 12V lighter plug and a couple of metres of 2-core wire, soldered to a domestic MR16 12V LED bulb. These will give plenty of light for 3W-5W power consumption, and of course don't get hot like a halogen bulb.
Mega power bankView Instructable »
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