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20Instructables552,004Views220CommentsWhitehorse, YT, CanadaJoined November 13th, 2014
Most of the things I build usually relate to either astronomy, physics or woodworking in general.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on 1CM69's instructable Peltier Cooling for ZWO Astro Camera3 days ago
    Peltier Cooling for ZWO Astro Camera

    Excellent Instructable. I'll definitely have to try it now. The result speaks for itself.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera2 weeks ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    Sure, take a look there: https://github.com/thomasjacquin/allsky-websiteI upload the videos with the time stamp already (timelapse.sh). They get uploaded to the "videos" folder on my website. I build the html using the mp4 filename. Have a look at index.php in the videos folder. Let me know how it goes.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera1 month ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    Hey Eric,You won't be able to run the program with your Orion camera because it is using ZWO's libraries to talk to ASI cameras. I'm sure there's a way to use your camera on a Raspberry Pi, but you will need a program that talks to the Orion camera. The one I wrote only talks to ASI cameras.Thomas

    Hey Gerald,Did you see any errors when you ran the install.sh script? Which version of Raspbian are you using?I would try compiling "capture" to make sure everything is installed properly. You just need to type: make captureLet me know if that works.Thomas

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera1 month ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    Hi Gerald,I will try at home with your settings to see if I can reproduce the issue. In the mean time, try setting the delay to its default value (1000) and see if it happens again. That would be a good test to help me locate the problem.

    Hi,What are your settings in allsky.sh? I have seen that behavior when I tried to use short exposures (under a second). Also, what delay are you using?

    Glad it's working fine for you now. I will take a look at the delay option. I've also had strange behaviour when playing with this value so thanks for reporting the issue.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Grow Your Own Giant Sequoia Tree1 month ago
    Grow Your Own Giant Sequoia Tree

    Hi,When you move a plant to a different spot, it may grow differently because it will receive more or less light. Your tree was growing towards the window. If you turn the pot by half a turn, it will straighten back up. The shape is not really an indicator of the health, it's just the plant looking for more light.As for the "drying" out of the bottom leaves, It could be a re-allocation of resources from the lower leaves to the top ones. It can also be that the plant is not receiving enough sunlight and is getting rid of its lower leaves in order to grow new ones towards the sun. Another thing that can cause this phenomenon is an excess of water in the soil. Make sure the first centimeter of soil is dry before watering again. I would also leave the plant in a bright spot to giv...

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    Hi,When you move a plant to a different spot, it may grow differently because it will receive more or less light. Your tree was growing towards the window. If you turn the pot by half a turn, it will straighten back up. The shape is not really an indicator of the health, it's just the plant looking for more light.As for the "drying" out of the bottom leaves, It could be a re-allocation of resources from the lower leaves to the top ones. It can also be that the plant is not receiving enough sunlight and is getting rid of its lower leaves in order to grow new ones towards the sun. Another thing that can cause this phenomenon is an excess of water in the soil. Make sure the first centimeter of soil is dry before watering again. I would also leave the plant in a bright spot to give it enough energy.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable See Through Star Map1 month ago
    See Through Star Map

    You can make 2 panels and hold them in front of each other. The SVG has 2 layers, one with the stars, the other one with the mythological drawing. If you look at the layers manager, you will see the 2 layers. They are called "Mythology" and "Star Map". You can toggle the visibility of layers using your vector program (Corel, Inkscape, etc)

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Grow Your Own Giant Sequoia Tree2 months ago
    Grow Your Own Giant Sequoia Tree

    I believe 1 inch is still reasonable. When you see the size of the seed, you can guess that there's not much reserve for the young seedling to start with. They can't grow a very long stem because that would use too much energy.I believe that at 2 inches, the cotyledons may be really close to the ground or even underground and that will limit the ability for the plant to receive the sunlight it needs to grow.

    Hi Rigo,You probably received seeds from a Sequoia sempervirens tree (https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Sequoia-se...). They are called Coastal Redwood and grow on the coast of northern California. They are beautiful trees that grow taller and faster than Sequoiadendron giganteum. Their trunk is not as wide, they have a different foliage (like a yew tree) and smaller cones.I have a specimen growing at home and I believe they are a bit more easy to grow. The other nice thing about this species is that when you cut an adult tree, it will make hundreds of new stems at the base and grow a new trunk which is not the case for a Giant Sequoia.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable See Through Star Map2 months ago
    See Through Star Map

    You can download all the maps on this page: https://www.iau.org/public/themes/constellations/

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Grow Your Own Giant Sequoia Tree2 months ago
    Grow Your Own Giant Sequoia Tree

    This is a long pot so it shouldn't be too much trouble to separate the trees, even if you break a few roots. You should definitely do that in the fall when the growth season is over. That way, it gives the plant the entire winter to recover from the stress. I usually transplant my trees in November.If you haven't done so yet, I would place the plants outside in a semi-bright spot and increase sunlight everyday until they can handle direct sunlight. Remember that UV radiation is blocked by glass so it will be a big shock for them if you plant them in the middle of summer without having exposed them to the sun before.One more tip about water: At this stage, only water when the first inch of soil is dry. The rest of the pot still has enough moisture for the plants.

    Hi Iuvigi,Watering is a critical part, especially when the plant is young (a few weeks old). From germination until the stage where it starts forming branches, you want to keep sufficient moisture in the pot. If the pot is small (3 or 4 inches), you may want to water every day. If it's larger, you'll want to water less often because it retains more moisture. Once the plants are planted outside, they will grow longer roots that will reach humidity deeper in the soil.Root rot occurs when drainage is poor and watering too frequent. A compact soil or a pot with no drainage holes can induce root rot. When it occurs, there's not much you can do to save the plant. You can still try to remove most of the soil around the roots, spray some fungicide and replant in dry soil. Potting soil from your...

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    Hi Iuvigi,Watering is a critical part, especially when the plant is young (a few weeks old). From germination until the stage where it starts forming branches, you want to keep sufficient moisture in the pot. If the pot is small (3 or 4 inches), you may want to water every day. If it's larger, you'll want to water less often because it retains more moisture. Once the plants are planted outside, they will grow longer roots that will reach humidity deeper in the soil.Root rot occurs when drainage is poor and watering too frequent. A compact soil or a pot with no drainage holes can induce root rot. When it occurs, there's not much you can do to save the plant. You can still try to remove most of the soil around the roots, spray some fungicide and replant in dry soil. Potting soil from your local gardening center is a good option.Another recommended practice would be to place the young seedlings outside in the sun for a few hours as soon as they have a few branches. It will increase their resistance to direct sunlight and wind, making the stem thicker. It will also dry the soil and make the foliage denser.If the plants have built that resistance to the sun, you can plant them outside in spring or summer as long as you water well during the first weeks. If they have always been inside, I recommend to plant them outside in the fall, when the sun is less bright and the growth season is over.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Grow Your Own Giant Sequoia Tree2 months ago
    Grow Your Own Giant Sequoia Tree

    At that stage, you can place them in a bright spot as long as they are not in direct sunlight. They will need the brightness for the photosynthesis process. That will give them enough resources to grow new leaves at the center. However, direct sunlight will probably roast them at that stage.Looking at your pictures, I would water them less. Your potting soil looks quite damp. If you had small plastic pots, I would give water once a day. With your larger pots, you will probably need to water them half as much. Maybe once every 2 days and not too much. The rule would be to water only when the soil looks dry (it won't actually be dry deeper).The leaves curling down is quite normal as they are looking for light. When the curl up that usually means too much water.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Grow Your Own Giant Sequoia Tree2 months ago
    Grow Your Own Giant Sequoia Tree

    Hi Vladimir,That's a problem I had for a few of my seedlings. Basically, in the wild, the seed is in the ground and when it germinates, the envelope stays in the soil and the seedlings is pulling out of it towards the sun.In our case, there is nothing constantly pulling on the envelope. I would try adding a drop of water on the spot it is attached and slowly pull on it from time to time. If it doesn't move, try another time. It may drop the envelope at a later stage when the cotyledons become larger and stronger.If it still hasn't shed it when the new leaves start forming in the center, I would pull a little harder even if it breaks one of the 4 cotyledons. This will give more sunlight to the center of the seedling.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Grow Your Own Giant Sequoia Tree2 months ago
    Grow Your Own Giant Sequoia Tree

    Hey Alex,After you put the seeds on the wet paper and inside the bag, the moisture shouldn't leave the bag so you don't need to add any more water.However, if you see a seed that sprouted, you can take this one out of the bag and put it in wet potting soil. The more you open the bag, the more the moisture will go out so you may need to add a tea spoon of water from time to time.When you take the bag out of the fridge and put it in a warm dark spot, the same rule applies. No need for additional water unless you open the bag frequently to take the newly sprouted individuals out.

    I ordered my seeds from J.L. Hudson (http://www.jlhudsonseeds.net/SeedlistSA-SH.htm) from California. They were really good quality (about 50% germination rate). Giant Sequoia trees grow in altitude in the Sierra Nevada, they require a well drained humid soil. In the winter they get several feet of snow and in the summer they rely on that snow pack melting and keeping the ground moist.When I was in Australia, I remember seeing some Sequoia trees at Melbourne Botanical Garden and also in Tasmania. Ballarat has a huge specimen. I think Queensland may be too hot for the tree. South western Australia would actually work too (Perth, Albany, etc,). The Great Ocean Road and the Great Otway National Park is a good place for the tree too...There's even a small forest along a river.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera3 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    Hi Raymond,Glad you got it sorted out. I haven't used the auto exposure option yet. An alternative to that could be to change the content of this function like so:elseif (result == "DAY") { asiExposure = 50000; // 50 ms for example ASISetControlValue(CamNum, ASI_EXPOSURE, asiExposure, ASI_FALSE); cvSaveImage( fileName, pRgb );}I haven't tested it but that would take images at 50ms during the day. That's not auto exposure but that a quick way of getting it to work.You'll have to run: make capture again to compile the new code.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera3 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    Oh you're running VNC... I had reports about image artifacts and instability when running VNC. Try without VNC and -nodisplay 1. That should help debugging the issue.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera3 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    Hey Raymond, That's a really strange issue. I just received some Pi 3 and I compiled the code successfully. I runs without issues. Have you tried to add the -delay 1000 option? It is an option that will wait between shots (in ms). I use it for really short exposure. You should also try the -nodisplay 1 option. It saves the images but doesn't show a preview. It would be less CPU intensive. I'll let you know if I get similar behavior reported by users.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera3 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    Hey Jeremy,What happens if you run ./allsky.sh instead of capture? Also, if it works with the monitor, that's a good start. I have the same version of Raspbian. I will try the -nodisplay 1 option. Also, please note the - before the option and the absence of "equal" sign between the option and the value.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera3 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    Hi Raymond,I have a 64GB Samsung evo. It works great. The heat sink is a good idea. Here in the Yukon the nights are cold so I never worried about overheating but it may be a problem in your location. Especially if it is enclosed in a small container. You should check the temperature when it's running: https://www.cyberciti.biz/faq/linux-find-out-raspb...Also, since your image file is fairly large, I would increase the delay between images to give some time for the Pi to write the camera sensor data on file. You can use the option -delay 1000 to have a 1 second delay between shots (the default is 10ms).

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera3 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    Hi Raymond, the fact that capture is still running is a good sign. That means the issue comes from one of the scripts.Just to make sure though, is your time set correctly on your Pi? I see from your GPS info that you are in Hong Kong. There's a binary called sunwait that return the civil twilight for your given GPS coordinates. Let's say that the civil twilight at sunrise happens at 5:30am, then the capture will stop capturing images at 5:30am but it will continue running in the background until it's dark again. So it's important that your Pi clock is set correctly.Can you also run a session where you are just saving images but not uploading? If it runs fine, we'll know it probably breaks during upload.Also, you could try adding -width 640 and -height 480 to reduce your image size by 4 ...

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    Hi Raymond, the fact that capture is still running is a good sign. That means the issue comes from one of the scripts.Just to make sure though, is your time set correctly on your Pi? I see from your GPS info that you are in Hong Kong. There's a binary called sunwait that return the civil twilight for your given GPS coordinates. Let's say that the civil twilight at sunrise happens at 5:30am, then the capture will stop capturing images at 5:30am but it will continue running in the background until it's dark again. So it's important that your Pi clock is set correctly.Can you also run a session where you are just saving images but not uploading? If it runs fine, we'll know it probably breaks during upload.Also, you could try adding -width 640 and -height 480 to reduce your image size by 4 and see if it works better.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera3 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    Hi Raymond,Regarding the file size, I have an ASI224MC and it's rare for me to upload files larger than 250kb. That's when I have lots of features on the image (clouds or aurora). For a black image that should be much less. What are your settings? Can you paste the content of allsky.sh?Try decreasing the size of the image before upload instead of decreasing the quality. Also make sure to use JPG instead of PNG to cut the size even more.This is what I use for example in saveImage.sh: convert "$1" -resize 962x720 -gravity East -chop 2x0 "$1-resize.jpg";Regarding the instability, I had the same kind of problem when my SD card started to fail. Like any computer, when there is a power cut or an improper shutdown, some blocks of memory can get corrupted during a write oper...

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    Hi Raymond,Regarding the file size, I have an ASI224MC and it's rare for me to upload files larger than 250kb. That's when I have lots of features on the image (clouds or aurora). For a black image that should be much less. What are your settings? Can you paste the content of allsky.sh?Try decreasing the size of the image before upload instead of decreasing the quality. Also make sure to use JPG instead of PNG to cut the size even more.This is what I use for example in saveImage.sh: convert "$1" -resize 962x720 -gravity East -chop 2x0 "$1-resize.jpg";Regarding the instability, I had the same kind of problem when my SD card started to fail. Like any computer, when there is a power cut or an improper shutdown, some blocks of memory can get corrupted during a write operation and lead to an unstable operating system. You said you swapped the micro SD so we can probably rule that out.When you say it stops working, does it crash? Is there any message in the console?Thomas

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera4 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    Only the headers of the libraries are editable so I don't think I could add logging there. It might be worth looking at dmesg or syslog to see if there's anything there.

    Thanks Liam for the feedback. I updated the readme and I will update the repo once I get home. I'm glad it fixes the issue for the USB3 version of the ASI120.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera4 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    Hey Liam,I don't think you would need the firmware upgrade with the USB3 version of the ASI120MC. Most users reported a segmentation fault with the USB2 version and the firmware upgrade fixed it.I would suggest updating to the latest SDK: http://astronomy-imaging-camera.com/software/ASI_l...There might be something specific to the USB3 version in their latest release.I haven't tested the USB3 version myself. I would try to use the camera with oacapture and make sure it works in order to rule out any camera or Raspberry Pi issue: http://www.openastroproject.org/downloads/Let me know if you make any progress on that issue.Thomas

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Grow Your Own Giant Sequoia Tree4 months ago
    Grow Your Own Giant Sequoia Tree

    Hi Sandy, this is a good question. At that stage, you'll need a good moisture in the soil (but not too much because of the risk of root rot). Since your tray is fairly small, you will need to sprinkle every day. I would wait until I see the first leaves in the middle of the cotyledons. That is a sign that the main root has started to make secondary roots and the plant is more resistant to transplantation.If you fear the tray may dry up, you can prepare bigger pots with the exact same soil and moisture level (spray with fungicide to make sure), scoop the seedlings & soil from the ice cube tray and move them delicately to the new bigger pot.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera5 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    Hi Frankie, the documentation of the SDK mentions the auto exposure indeed but this hasn't been implemented in the current version of my code. Here are the available options:ASI_AUTO_MAX_GAIN,//maximum gain when auto adjustASI_AUTO_MAX_EXP,//maximum exposure time when auto adjust,unit is secondASI_AUTO_MAX_BRIGHTNESS,//target brightness when auto adjustI will probably try to include those in the future when I get a bit more time to focus on the code. In the meantime, If you are familiar with C++ development, you can modify capture.cpp to include these options.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Grow Your Own Giant Sequoia Tree6 months ago
    Grow Your Own Giant Sequoia Tree

    Giant Sequoias, just like other trees grow by steps. it's true for adult trees and for seedlings. On the first year, your tree might only be 4 inches tall with 2 or 3 branches (it depends what time of year your planted them). Next year it will start growing again from the extremities.I find that my own trees start growing around April and stop around July.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Grow Your Own Giant Sequoia Tree6 months ago
    Grow Your Own Giant Sequoia Tree

    If there were no secondary roots, it's not very likely to survive. You will know soon if it worked or not. If the leaves turn dark green and soft, it's a bad sign.A general rule for conifers is that they hate being transplanted. That's why it's best to have one seed per pot, so that you don't have to separate to individuals at an early stage.Still, I hope your seedlings make it !

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera6 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    Hi Telescopator,I'm also french and a telescope builder ;)Long story short: I don't think you'll be able to swap the cameras because the code is based on the Software Development Kit provided by ZWO. So basically, in the code, there are functions such as: ASICameraInfo or ASIGetControlValue... which means that it will only make sense when you are trying to talk to a camera made by ZWO.However, I'm not saying the GP224C can't work with the Raspberry Pi. In order to get it to work, you would need to ask Altair Astro for their SDK and modify capture.cpp. Unfortunately, I don't own an Altair Camera so I can't tell you for sure it would work 100%.I hope that makes sense.Thomas

    Please don't hesitate to ask questions if you're having issues during the installation. I'm glad to help.Also, I forgot to mention that if you want to keep cost down, you can use an ASI120MC-S which is significantly cheaper than the ASI224MC. Maybe a bit less sensitive but if you only use it as an allsky camera, I don't think it would make much difference.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera6 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    The problem you'll encounter with the new Pi zero W is that there's no USB ports on it and you need to connect the camera somehow. I would chose a Pi 3 since it's more powerful, has more RAM and has onboard wifi.A lot of meteor survay cameras are using NTSC/PAL video format. Most of them use a high sensitivity camera such as the Sony Super HAD II. You will then need to convert the analog signal to digital. In that case you might be able to get away with the USB ports and use the Pi zero.You mentioned three of the attributes that are crucial to this kind of camera. the larger the pixels, the more signal to noise ratio you will get.Also for a larger resolution, you'll need a larger sensor... and then in turn a larger lens, which can get costly if you want one with a fast aperture (1.4 or ...

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    The problem you'll encounter with the new Pi zero W is that there's no USB ports on it and you need to connect the camera somehow. I would chose a Pi 3 since it's more powerful, has more RAM and has onboard wifi.A lot of meteor survay cameras are using NTSC/PAL video format. Most of them use a high sensitivity camera such as the Sony Super HAD II. You will then need to convert the analog signal to digital. In that case you might be able to get away with the USB ports and use the Pi zero.You mentioned three of the attributes that are crucial to this kind of camera. the larger the pixels, the more signal to noise ratio you will get.Also for a larger resolution, you'll need a larger sensor... and then in turn a larger lens, which can get costly if you want one with a fast aperture (1.4 or 1.8)Keep in mind also that a large sensor produces more data and the Raspberry Pi needs to keep up with it.For meteor, I think a standard Sony Super HAD II 768(H)×494(V) would be enough.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera7 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    Hi Andrea, I think you're using an old version of the code. There was no setting for gamma at the time. I will release a new version probably tomorrow which fixes a few things reported by users. You should check it out. I'll give you heads up when it's published.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera7 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    Hi Andrea,if you open allsky.sh, you will see a few arguments already there. You can add your own at the end, 1 per line, as long as you remember to end the line with a back slash (\). Then save the file and run it: ./allsky.shFor the frame rate, you'll have to open timelapse.sh and modifiy the value "25" in this line:avconv -y -f image2 -r 25Replace 25 by the desired frame rate, then save the file. You can run ./timelapse.sh again but you'll have to first remove the files with a number (0001, 0002, etc) because the script will recreate them.Let me know how it works.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera7 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    Hey Manuel,What camera do you use and what size are your images? I'm talking about the 0001.jpg. For example, I have an ASI224 and my 0001.jpg is 962x720 in size. The reason I'm asking is because cameras don't have exactly the same sensor ratio and we might need to adjust the script.Also, are the images valid? Can you open 0001.jpg?

    Ok so we'll try to run the command manually in the terminal in order to locate the error: from your allsky directory, type this:avconv -y -f image2 -r 25 -i current/%04d.jpg -vcodec libx264 -b:v 2000k current/allsky.mp4Let me know what errors you get.

    In your allsky.sh file, what's your filename? Does it end with jpg or png ?The timelapse script assumes that you're using .jpg extensions. if your original filename is "image.png" and gets converted to "0001.jpg" you might get errors when reading the image with avconv.To fix this, I would delete the 0001.jpg, 0002.jpg, etc images and replace .jpg by .png in the following scripts:upload.sh:convert "$1" -resize 962x720 -gravity East -chop 2x0 "$1-resize.png";timelapse.sh:gawk 'BEGIN{ a=1 }{ printf "mv -v ./current/%s current/%04d.png\n", $0, a++ }'andbash && avconv -y -f image2 -r 25 -i current/%04d.png .......I have a new version of the code to fix this and I'll update the github repo it in a few days.Let me know if that works for...

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    In your allsky.sh file, what's your filename? Does it end with jpg or png ?The timelapse script assumes that you're using .jpg extensions. if your original filename is "image.png" and gets converted to "0001.jpg" you might get errors when reading the image with avconv.To fix this, I would delete the 0001.jpg, 0002.jpg, etc images and replace .jpg by .png in the following scripts:upload.sh:convert "$1" -resize 962x720 -gravity East -chop 2x0 "$1-resize.png";timelapse.sh:gawk 'BEGIN{ a=1 }{ printf "mv -v ./current/%s current/%04d.png\n", $0, a++ }'andbash && avconv -y -f image2 -r 25 -i current/%04d.png .......I have a new version of the code to fix this and I'll update the github repo it in a few days.Let me know if that works for you.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera7 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    Hi Manuel,was there any errors in the terminal window?Make sure you remove all the files with a number (0001, 0002, 0003, etc) and the empty.mp4 (0 byte size) but keep all the images with a timestamp and run ./timelapse.sh again.Look for errors in the terminal and paste them here if you find any.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera7 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    Just got your message. For other users who have the same issue, here's how to fix it:Open ~/.config/lxsession/LXDE-pi/autostart and remove the duplicate lines.

    Hi,First, for the delay between images, you should try to add a -delay argument in allsky.sh. The value is in milliseconds so if you want 2 seconds between images, you need -delay 2000Then for the error "... are the same file". That would happen if there's already a file with the same name. To fix it, you should delete all files with a number (0001, 0002, 0003, etc) and keep the ones with a timestamp.Make sure to remove any .mp4 file too because they would cause an error when generating the new video file.Then you can run ./timelpase.sh againThis should work properly now.Thomas

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Minimalist Chess Set7 months ago
    Minimalist Chess Set

    You're welcome. I'm glad you saw my Instructable before re-doing it all over.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera7 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    Just rename the allsky directory to something else (allsky-old for example) and run the git clone command in a terminal again:git clone https://github.com/thomasjacquin/allsky.gitYou won't have to run ./install.sh again because you already have all the dependencies installed.

    Hey Manuel, try replacing "mv" by "cp" for now (line 3 on timelapse.sh). That will copy instead of renaming. Then you can delete the files with the timestamp manually.I'll try to locate the source of the error.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera7 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    Hey Manuel,if you get the error when lauching ./timelapse.sh in the terminal, you can try to modify that line:gawk 'BEGIN{ a=1 }{ printf "mv -v ./current/%s current/%04d.jpg\n", $0, a++ }' | # build mv commandwith this one:gawk 'BEGIN{ a=1 }{ printf "mv -v ./current/%s ./current/%04d.jpg\n", $0, a++ }' |Give it a try and let me know how it goes.

    Hey Manuel.The convert and timelapse scripts need a little bit of tweaking since the last time I updated the binary. I will update them once I've tested my latest code.current.1234.jpg is not a valid name. It needs to be current/1234.jpgI'll need a little bit more info to debug this one. Can you paste the content of timelapse.sh here?Also, do you already have a "current" folder with all your images saved properly inside of it?

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera7 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    I actually run my raspberry pi with the overclock option ON in order to generate a bit more heat in the enclosure.Once I add the thread to save images, It should fix the saving speed issue and make a better use of the cores.

    Glad you figured out the cable issue.I think saving as JPG would be faster because the file size is likely to be much smaller that PNG. You would lose a bit on quality but gain on speed.There is also an option in Raspbian to overclock the CPU from 900Mhz to 1Ghz.I know that a few options trigger a segmentation fault (exp under 1 second) and I know that I should create a new thread for saving the image. That's planned for the next update of the code. In the meantime, I hope this version is enough to get you started on your project.

    You're right. there seems to be an issue with the -quality option. Have you tried "image.jpg" as a filename?

    What settings are you using? Can you paste the allsky.sh content here?Also, do you have any error message in the terminal?If everything looks good, I would try a firmware upgrade.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Planets Photography Guide7 months ago
    Planets Photography Guide

    Hey.. not sure what you mean by "manipulate" but if you already have the data, you can skip the FireCapture step (which is only meant to capture data) and use the Pipp pre-processor. This will let you crop, rank, discard, center, offset, etc the frames and create a nice .avi or .ser before stacking them with AutoStakkert!Pipp supports these input files: AVI/SER/TIFF/BMP/FITS/JPEG/RAW

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera8 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    I haven't tested the instructions but I believe you can do something like that: http://cagewebdev.com/raspberry-pi-connecting-to-a-network-drive/ Then, in upload.sh, you can modify the script to replace cp "$1" "current/$1-$(date +'%Y%m%d%H%M%S').jpg"; by cp "$1" "home/pi/mynetworkdrive/$1-$(date +'%Y%m%d%H%M%S').jpg";

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera8 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    The code was updated and it should now work fine on both Raspbian and Raspbian lite.

    Thanks a lot for the feedback... Glad you figured it out. I made some changes in the code and I haven't had time to fix the upload and timelapse scripts. I'll update them as soon as I can based on your remarks.

    Hofi77, did you figure it out? The current upload and timelapse scripts are not up to date with the latest capture code so they are likely to have minor issues. I will fix them soon. Have you tried ftp instead of sftp like technoplusnl mentioned?

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera9 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    I'm glad it finally worked out for you! I have updated the readme on github so that others don't get stuck on the same issue. Have fun playing with your all sky camera.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera9 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    Hey,Don't worry with the autostart message. It's only supposed to work on a full Raspbian for now. I will look for a fix with Raspbian lite.From what I can see, you're having the same exact issue as a few other people. The thing in common is that you're using an ASI120MC.Caracol_uk posted that he managed to get it to work by upgrading the firmware of the camera. ZWO provides a tool to upgrade the firmware of ASI120 cameras to bring them up to date with other models. (That's because this model is not USB3.0). Here's the quote:"Ok, I've managed to fix my problem. It turns out that the ASI120MC was sending data over the USB line in 1024 byte chunks which the Pi doesn't permit. 512 bytes is apparently the maximum for USB2, though most devices will allow more. To resolve the problem I u...

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    Hey,Don't worry with the autostart message. It's only supposed to work on a full Raspbian for now. I will look for a fix with Raspbian lite.From what I can see, you're having the same exact issue as a few other people. The thing in common is that you're using an ASI120MC.Caracol_uk posted that he managed to get it to work by upgrading the firmware of the camera. ZWO provides a tool to upgrade the firmware of ASI120 cameras to bring them up to date with other models. (That's because this model is not USB3.0). Here's the quote:"Ok, I've managed to fix my problem. It turns out that the ASI120MC was sending data over the USB line in 1024 byte chunks which the Pi doesn't permit. 512 bytes is apparently the maximum for USB2, though most devices will allow more. To resolve the problem I used the firmware update tool from the ZWO website and installed the firmware labelled "ASI120MC compatible". That did the trick."Here's the link for the tool: http://astronomy-imaging-camera.com/software/FWToo...I hope this works.

    You would have to use 6.5E.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera9 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    So I just re-installed Jessie Lite from scratch. I got the same error as you: "Open Camera ERROR, Check that you have root permissions!"You have to unplug and replug the camera for the asi devrules to kick in.Then using the latest code, it works fine.If you want to save all images and make a timelapse, uncomment line 11 in allsky.shI hope it works for you too.

    I will try on a fresh Jessie Lite and see if I can get the same errors. I will let you know how it works on my side.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera9 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    Yes, that's where the files are supposed to go. You should end up with this structure: /home/pi/allsky

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera9 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    I will take a look at that. In the meantime, you can just click on the green button in the top right corner and download the code. Just extract the archive and you'll get the same thing as if you cloned it.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Grow Your Own Giant Sequoia Tree10 months ago
    Grow Your Own Giant Sequoia Tree

    Hi, I would probably wait until they have a few branches. You could put the pot in water for a few minutes and then slowly pull sideways on the base of each stem. Try to keep as much soil around the roots. It will reduce the stress for the plant.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Newspaper Stand10 months ago
    Newspaper Stand

    There is enough room in a 4 by 8 sheet of plywood to cut all panels. I have attached an SVG version if you want to move the panels around to optimize your cut.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera11 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    Thanks for the feedback on the dark subtraction. I'll look at the SDK when I get a chance an try to get it to work. If it's in the headers file and the doc pdf, there must be a way to get it to work.As for the sun shield, that's also something I will need to work on for my next build. I believe a small servo/stepper would probably do the job indeed. Some stepper drivers are fairly small and can easily fit in the enclosure.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera11 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    That's excellent news. I will set up a github repo to keep all the latest instructions and so that everyone can contribute to the project.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera11 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    Thank you guys for investigating the issue. Let me know if you find he source of this issue and I'll update the Instructable.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera11 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    The ASI120MC is using USB 2.0 and can be powered from any device including a Raspberry Pi (0.5A is the max output from a USB 2.0 port). Is there a possibility to check the camera on a Windows laptop with FireCapture? I just want to rule out the possibility that that camera is faulty.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera11 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    Hi,Can you plug a monitor to the Pi and see what's being printed in the terminal? Is there any error when running allsky.sh?Also I supposed you tested that already but the exposure value is in milliseconds so 1 sec is actually 1 000 000.Please paste a screenshot in here if you see an error message.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera11 months ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    Hi Frankie, did you copy that file in /usr/local/lib ?

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Equatorial Platform for the North11 months ago
    Equatorial Platform for the North

    Hi,It depends what you are trying to achieve. If you want close-ups of the ISS for example, you'll need a telescope, a robust mount and a fairly high slew speed.Another thing to note is that satellites are not following the ecliptic, (except the geosynchronous ones of course), so you don't really need an equatorial platform for this task.I would go with an Alt-azimuthal mount (can be handmade) with high speed stepper motors.Then you'll need to use an arduino or raspberry pi or a computer to control the mount. A bit like this: https://www.instructables.com/id/Star-Track-Arduino-Powered-Star-Pointer-and-Tracke/I hope it help a bit.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera1 year ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    That's wonderful Peter! And a nice enclosure box too!Thanks for the detailed instructions. I am sure it will help others. I honestly tried a few things to get the whole project to work and I couldn't remember all the steps. I'll update the typos.Here's the doc for cvSaveImage. I haven't played with the compression myself but here's a Stackoverflow example on how to use it.Hope this helps.

    libopencv_calib3d.so is a symbolic link to libopencv_calib3d.so.2.4.11. You could try to delete libopencv_calib3d.so and rename libopencv_calib3d.so.2.4.11 to libopencv_calib3d.soIf that works, try to do that for the other files.

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera1 year ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    I'm using Raspbian, no IDE. Compiling directly on the Pi.

    Hi Peter,Make sure you have a file called opencv.conf. If not create it here:sudo nano /etc/ld.so.conf.d/opencv.confadd this line inside:/usr/local/libThen run:sudo ldconfigThat should tell your system where to find the opencv installation. Hopefully that fixes your OpenCV errors

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera1 year ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    I'll try to build a binary that saves with lossless compression and without timestamp in the coming days. It might work better for your dark subtraction.Here's the link for ZWO software: http://astronomy-imaging-camera.com/software/They have camera drivers, ASCOM, SDK and astronomy software. You might be able to use python with the ASCOM driver.

    Saving uncompressed images only requires to add a parameter in the C++.I think you need to fix the OpenCV errors first in order to get the compiler to work. I suppose you followed the instructions here so now you probably need to create/find opencv.pc

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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera1 year ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    Hi Peter, We're not talking about really long exposure here. Somewhere around 5 seconds is the settings you would use. I don't expect the ASI120MC to produce a lot of noise for such a short exposure. However, if you need to subtract your dark frame, it can be achieved with the Raspberry Pi too. Luckily for you, you won't have to learn any C code and recompile the software, you can probably get around the issue by subtracting the frame using ImageMagick. You'll have to modify the convert.sh file. Here's a link that can help you: https://astrofloyd.wordpress.com/2013/10/27/astrophotography-with-imagemagick/

    FireCapture subtracts the dark and saves the image. In order to do that, you would have to modifiy the C code and recompile it. I would suggest to actually let the "capture" binary do it's work (i.e. save the image) and let ImageMagik subtract your dark file and save a new version of the image. That would be a 1 line change in "convert.sh".For example: composite image-full.jpg -compose subtract dark.jpgAnother thought: if you want to save some processing power on your pi during the night, you could instead subtract your dark frame to your list of photos at the end of the night, just before making your timelapse.

    Yes, in a terminal, navigate to the demo folder and type make test_gui2_snapThis should start the compilation and replace your "capture" binary in the allsky folder. You will probably get some errors because it's likely that you don't have all the -dev dependencies installed on the pi yet. For example, you might need libusb-dev which would be installed with:sudo apt-get install libusb-1.0-0-devBasically, if you get some errors, add the dev dependencies until it compiles. Then you can play with the C++ file to remove the timestamp.My thought about the dark subtraction getting worse is that the sensor heat increases throughout your imaging session and the dark frame is not a good reference anymore.

    Try this one:sudo apt-get install libhighgui-devOpenCV doesn't do the subtraction. ImageMagik does it.Yes jpgs have artifacts and this might be the issue. Saving as BMP or PNG could help as these formats support lossless compression. The cvSaveImage function (in the C++ file) can take a third argument which is the compression level.

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  • ThomasJ1 entered Planets Photography Guide in the Makerspace Contest contest 1 year ago
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  • ThomasJ1 entered Newspaper Stand in the Wood Contest 2016 contest 1 year ago
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  • ThomasJ1 commented on ThomasJ1's instructable Wireless All Sky Camera1 year ago
    Wireless All Sky Camera

    You can ignore the first error. It only means that it can'y find the latest image. That's normal since you haven't taken one yet.For the second error, it means it can't find the shared library libASICamera2.so. When "./capture" runs, it needs to find all the libraries it needs in order to run. Since our lib directory is in a non-standard location, we need to tell the Pi to look into this directory too. First you'll need to export the path and then update the cache. Here's how:export LD_LIBRARY_PATH=/home/pi/allsky/lib/armv7Then update the cache with:sudo ldconfig -vYou should now see a list of libraries paths including the allsky one.

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