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ARDUINO MPPT SOLAR CHARGE CONTROLLER (Version-3.0)
Awesome! I'm adding it in :)
I added it in the instructable, thanks for bringing it up!
Thanks for the reply! What would be the easiest way to check if it's glass or aluminium? I'll add it in the instructable as extra info.
The fuses are extra protection, they are simple glass ones.Pot can be on the board, but it is easier to mount if it's connected via a wire. It's the variable resistor symbol in the schematic. It should indeed be outside the case, or isolated with some thermal pads. The glue and extra pcb are for mounting.
Fair point. The 2 disks are stacked right on top of eachother for more rigidity, but wearing safety glasses is always a good idea while sanding.
Good luck with the build! Post a picture if it's finished :)
Have you removed the circuitboard of the harddrive? Maybe you could change the order of the wires. It didn't matter for my ESC, but you never know.
Electrolytic for the large smoothing caps, film for the decoupling caps near the chips, and ceramic for the smaller ones. Any particular reason you ask?
My pleasure, glad you liked it :)
You could make several, each with a different grid of sandpaper :)
Well, 10 sanders wouldn't have been that useful either :p You could always make a custom enclosure for the spindel though!
You could try to desolder the ribbon cable to access the pins directly, it's hard to be more specific without a picture. You should check the wall-wart you are using, most of them are "center positive". This means that the inside of the plug is positive, and the outside is negative. It would be best to plug it into a barrel jack and measure with the multimeter to be sure :)
I use the vision sensing device integrated in my head to verify this (aka my eyes). Just kidding, I simply stop pushing the button when they should stop turning. The limit switch would be a good idea however!
Hard Disk SanderView Instructable »
I agree with Josh, this project shouldn't be used as is. Furthermore, charging different battery types with 1 charger is a bad idea: lithium cells need a very specific charging scheme, which is impossible to attain when they are connected in series with an other type of battery. As such, you can not guarantee that the lithium cells will not be overcharged. Also, there is no undervoltage protection, which could result in serious damage to the batteries. Although it's a creative idea, it's simply too dangerous and should not be attempted by anyone else.
Modern Led Infinity Mirror Table Lamp
I might have to correct you on that one : https://www.instructables.com/id/Digital-Battery-O... :pConcerning this project: the fact that the powerbank plugs right into this one is very cool!
Thanks man! I tried to include as many features as possible, but didn't want them to be overkill :P The INA219 basically replaces the uCurrent circuitry, that's also what Dave did in his rev B and C. I also didn't understand Dave's decision there, I found it also very annoying because it made it impossible to disable the output (without adding a mosfet in series). Let me know if you make one! :)
Well, it will probably do what it claims, but I wouldn't expect high precision. If you don't have the time to make something yourself, it's surely an option (but a boring one :P ).
Thank you so much! I'm indeed happy about how the faceplate turned out, it's cheap and you can customize it like you want. They did charge a bit extra for having 2 designs on 1 PCB though, but that's not a big deal.
I think you didn't check the schematic properly, I only use 0.1% on places where it is really needed. Those 10 resistors in parallel are 1%, to achieve the same result as a 0.1% resistor. So this is already done to keep it cheap.On all other places where I use 0.1% resistors, they are mandatory for a precise operation.
I appreciate your enthusiasm, but please take a bit more time before making conclusions next time.Those resistors are 0.1% precise, no way you are going to get them for those prices. As I said, it can be much cheaper to buy the parts on ebay or aliexpress instead, no need to convince me there :pAlso, my first prototype used a single lipo cell, and it did not work. The chip indeed works at this low voltage, but NOT for the full rated current. It had no trouble boosting the voltage to 10 V, but when drawing more than half an amp (at 10 V), the voltage dropped. So it is not possible to do this, trust me.
I checked aliexpress for prices and added them to the BOM. $90 now, which is indeed a lot cheaper. I also added this in the instructable, maybe it encourages more people to give it a try :)
I checked aliexpress for prices and added them to the BOM. $100 now (incl. PCB), which is indeed a lot cheaper. I also added this in the instructable, maybe it encourages more people to give it a try :)
Thank you! Hope you enjoyed it :)
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Digital Battery Operated Po...View Instructable »
POV Bike Display - ESP8266 + APA102
That's a beefy powersupply :P1) Yes, put it on the 3.3V line2) Not sure, it depends on how the powersupply is internally wired. I would keep them seperate and put an extra banana jack. Also, 18 A is already very high for the wiring, so it's probably not a good idea to actually draw that current :P3) You could, but 10 Ohms is probably fine4) Sure, as long as there is a significant load it's fine ^^Good luck!
There certainly is an explanation, electronics is not magic (although it sometimes seems like it) ;)First, in the case you omit the lm317: the power dissipation in the resistors is too high. You can calculate it: P = UI = U^2 / R. So let's say your potentiometer is at 0 ohms, that means you have a 360 ohms resistor between 37V and ground. So P = 37^2 / 360 = 3.8 Watt (!)Normal resistors only allow a power dissipation of about 0.25 Watt, so it will heat up and burn out. In the case you do connect the lm317, this shouldn't happen. Since 0 ohms on your potentiometer will give you 1.25V output, you power dissipation will only be 0.004 Watt. That means you made a mistake in your wiring. I would suggest to rebuild it, and take another look at the pinout of the part. I hope it helps, good luck!
Potentiometers always have 3 pins, and depending on how you want to use them you can use 2 or 3 of them.The value that is written on the potmeter (10k here) is the resistance you will measure between pin 1 and 3 on the image below. Pin 2 is called the wiper and will "glide" along the resistor. When measuring the resistance between 1 and 2, you will see that it changes between 0 Ohm and 10k Ohm. The same can be done by using pins 2 and 3. You have now made a variable resistor, which is exactly what we need.When using all 3 pins, you form a voltage divider, look on wikipedia for some more information.Good luck!
Using MIT App Inventor to Control Arduino - the Basics
I used the wires from the PSU itself, they are 18 AWG. Feel free to copy the design, that's the reason I shared this project :)
Hello!I'm glad you like the instructable :)It is possible that you don't have a pink wire. In that case, just don't use it :p It's not an issue.The -12V can be used if you want to power something with a so called symmetrical powersupply. Opamps often require +12V, GND and -12V. Connect it now, so you can use it if you need it in the future.Welcome to the wonderful world of electronics ;)
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Thanks! I always try to make them as clear and fun as possible :) My nicest lego technic models are simply on display and I got this idea I couldn't resist to make :p
Be creative with your code ;)A very easy way would be to check if the signal has passed a certain threshold, then wait some time and check again. This can be done several times for more claps.
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This one: https://www.circuitlab.com/
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In this pinout diagram you can see which pins of the atmega328p (the one most commonly found on arduino uno boards) correspond to the pins you use in the code. Good luck!
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From aliexpress :P
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Very cool! And awesome you managed to use IR with an attiny, I found the existing libraries don't work :/ but now you have the solution! :D
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