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Michael, it already has a "proper clock object", that's why you are calling timeClient.update() which keeps time according to the accuracy of the micro and only refreshens from the ntp server every NTP_INTERVAL seconds.
Dimming those OLEDs is possible but the effect almost unnoticeable. A bigger issue is the digits burning into it like we had with the CRT monitors in the olden days.Turning off the wifi after getting the date, that's something to consider, also reducing how often the time is pulled (currently every minute, that's far too often)
It's just a few simple changes as you can see here: https://gist.github.com/TomK32/1fcdd03d0eb08fddf02...This is the file you can copy and try out. https://gist.github.com/TomK32/1fcdd03d0eb08fddf024ff257a11bb52/46227eb68c22a4fba30f7bab59b20eb5510b5ed3
Sure it does. The ATTiny85 has plenty of pins for this. Even though it has only eight. https://www.instructables.com/id/V-USB-ATtiny85-Pro...https://halfbyteblog.wordpress.com/2015/11/29/usin...
Standing Pallet Desk - Epoxy Finished
it's not so much about the library as the correct pinout.
my pro-tip: use D13, D14 instead of 13, 14. There's a header file that defines those to the correct interal pins say D6 becomes pin 12.https://github.com/esp8266/Arduino/blob/master/variants/d1_mini/pins_arduino.h
Sure, but 4M on the wemos, who cares, right? I have some smaller esp8266 with 8M, just in case :D
White screen is a good first step, you just gotta make sure you match the pins.I'm using ucglib and following did work for my D1 (I have a mini too but didn't try with that, yet):Ucglib_ST7735_18x128x160_SWSPI ucg(/*sclk=*/ SCL, /*data=*/ SDA, /*cd=*/ D11 , /*cs=*/ D10, /*reset=*/ D12);and wire the five pins scl, sda, cd (rs on my display), cs and rs to the correct pins.btw, you know http://wttr.in ?
Fantastic build. The process for just one field looks tedious, did you think about fabricating your own little boards with the led and capacitance sensor combined to reduce the cables?
Your post is missing actual instructions. Please remember that instructables isn't about showing off projects but about describing them in great detail so that others can create the same thing.
Good point out here that if you charge the cap with less than 5V, say the 3.4V that led might be quite happy with, then you have to remove that resistor.
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Oh I started otherthinking and wondered why there's no RTC module but for that you just move the paper. But still, if it looses power an rtc would be a nice feature, if only to watch it spin very quickly
took me some time to find that link despite you mentioning that you've added it...
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